Building hi-tensile fence from beginning to end. There is no other fencing type that equals hi-tensile fence in cost and low labor to install. For more grazing tips, check out my books on our website: greenpasturesfarm.net.
Greg thanks for making a video where you took enough time to show us how to get it done right. A coach is someone who saves you a life time of learning the hard way. That is exactly what you’ve done here Outstanding video!! Thank you! Andy
Mr. Judy you are such a generous person. I can’t belive the extreme detail about “procesus”. There are people out there asking for money for the knowledge you share. God bless you!
This was a great lesson!! As usual, thanks so much for all the helpful information.God Bless Ben and Isaac. We only need 5 million more young people like them.
Thank you so much! I enjoyed that it was start to finish no editing and showed the mistakes so we all got to learn onsite from you and your years of experience!
Great to see more and more people are seeing the benefits of high tensile wire fencing. Different installation process but as you say, saves you labor and maintenance down the road.
reading about it and seeing it are 2 different things. Seeing the mistakes is invaluable. Seeing the high tensile wire bind because the soft wire wasn't twisted, seeing the wire sag after being tightened to know where to put a post in.......these are the gold nuggets that make a HUGE difference in learning the techniques. Thank you so much for this.
Hi Greg, if you take your handle, after you've made your hangman knot, and turn it at 90⁰ to the direction in which you made the knot it will snap off clean and you won't need to cut it with pliers nor have a sharp edge thereafter.
Hi Greg! I got my perimeter fence project done. Purchased all of my posts from you a few months ago. One thing I started doing after I was over half way done is tying my soft wire with tie/twist opposite the cow side of the fence. Just thought that would eliminate the possibility of poking an eye or cutting an animal. Hope all is well! My fence turned out fantastic!
I just finished today with my 6 wire high tensile fence project. I took your advice and bought the timeless posts, there were great to install! We pulled 32,000 ft of wire! Man it was hard work but it will be worth it hopefully no more chasing goats haha. Thanks for all the advice you have helped me more than you will ever know
I believe that Plastic Innovation (Timeless Fence company) still has lots of 170,000 psi wire in the 4000ft rolls. It's all I use, stays tight even when a tree falls on it and easy to work with.
I've ordered your no risk ranching book a few days back! Mighty excited to get it! You could call the European style fencing, since we don't yet have timeless posts. This video is a nice summary on how to put up fencing! Thanks
Fantastic! The older I get the more I hate crimping fence. I wish we could drive posts 4 feet in the ground. We average 12-18" dirt above rock so we are stuck with building traditional bracing. But, rather do that then sit in a office all day. Mark
After watching your fence videos, it amazes me watching these other ranchers killing themselves with all these crazy fence contraptions and gadgets. Lol
I filled up the tensioners before too when I started out. My solution, as cheap as the tensioners were, was to just cut the fence again and add a second tensioner. Wouldn't be feasible too many times but it's a fast and easy solution.
I'm must getting started in every sense of the word re raising cows. I wish you had shown the post driving, but you pbly do in another video -- or maybe the book covers it well
Great video! One thing I’ll mention to ya and maybe you’ve already done this but could you drive the four wheeler along the fence with the spinning Jenny on the four wheeler and just set the wire on the right side of each post as you go around the corners? Or maybe you just enjoy watching Ben and Isaac work hard!!!😂 anyway keep up the good work guys!!
We normally pull the wire on the spinning Jenny with the Atv. We leave the spinning Jenny sitting on the ground it is much easier to control. On short runs we just pull it by hand.
Hey Greg got another question for ya too. I was wondering if you worry about grass finishing steers going through winter and maybe not gaining enough to make them marble good enough to have a great eating experience? I’m up in Minnesota and that’s a challenge of mine I got my steers separated from the cow herd now and feeding them silage bales and some other good high quality dry hay. But it would be way easier to leave them with the cows. What I’m getting at is how would the meat turn out if you kept the steers with the cow herd and they didn’t gain through winter and you waited till mid summer to slaughter when they gained good weight every day for 60+ days or so? Maybe that’s a video you could cover? Thanks Greg for all the great Information you share with us!!
The other day I build a 100 yard high tensile single strand fence and I went through a thick ceder and birch stand. I brushed the trail and used screw in insulators on all the trees I needed, and slapped boards on the trees for the end posts, used an inline insulator at the ends and a ratchet strainer. I didn't use a single post, just $30 worth of insulators
You will be going through again every 2 years to untwist the insulators and prevent them from getting completely gobbled up by the trees, dont ask me how i know.
Hey Greg, where do you buy your 1" fiberglass rod? Everywhere I've looked they're about $40 a piece. At that price wouldn't it be cheaper to just drive a $5, 6' T-post in the ground the same depth?
I've got rigid tools as well.. The torque on that drill can break your arm if you are not careful! There is another smaller drill that I use for lighter projects like yours...
Greg, thank you for the awesome video with incredibly useful information! I'm about to out in a perimeter sheep fence on 10 acres. I like those timeless t-posts but I'm worried my string trimmer will chew right through that pvc. I have ruined a cheap tractor supply step in post that way and wondered if it would just be better to go with wood posts?
I envision pulling that, three reels, and each end caught up on the back of the Honda by 6 foot rope slings, with a line man's grip on each, old timers calal them come along. We call what you call a come along, we call it a hoist. If you go through trees, you can walk rope through your run, and twist a loop in each wire, a loop in the rope, smooth to go through snatch blocks, a block at each angle, you want to be ready to catch tension at the reels, pull in 3 conductors, or fence wires, however many. When you get close, have rope slings with grips to catch off the ends at the reel, lineman grips on the slings, and you can catch off 2 wires at the pulling end, tension one wire with a hoist or the Honda, get it close, and I recommend a hoist to pull it the last tension, then dead end one at a time.
I would have pulled all my slack out by hand and then bent the wire, that would save you from all the wire rolling up on the spool before your wire gets tight.
Great stuff! I know you said in a previous video that you used to pasture bucking horses when you first started out. Will the 29.5" line keep in horses as well, or do you need a bigger fence? My Dad and I have put in a lot of work to try and put in 5 strand electric fence for his horses, and I'm just curious if the timeless post with the one strand works for them too. It would definitely be a lot easier!
Thank you. Why wouldn’t you drill the holes in the fiberglass rods at a slight angle? It would solve two problems. I’m sure there is a reason you don’t.
Great content as usual with all of your videos. Question, how do you manage your cattle in this paddock since it’s adjacent to a hunting property? Do you simply know when they will be on site hunting and thus move the cattle elsewhere? Do you ever have issues with poachers on your land being that there’s a plethora of biodiversity and fauna? Thank you sir.
Question: if you had used the timeless posts as corners, they wouldn’t be 4’ deep in the ground, correct? So would they hold up against the strain of the tensioning process? Or would the wire not go through the pre drilled holes, just the soft wire to hold the high tensile wire to the post? Hope that makes sense.
Hi Mr Judy, I sure love your videos. So would you use this type of fence as your main perimeter? What if near a road? Also, do I not need to build h braces for the corners? I see the h braces on the timeless fence website I think. Fence looks great. Thanks, Matt
If there’s a tree line and brush growing along the perimeter of the property’s boundary line, do you recommend clearing the brush and trees right on the property line to build perimeter fence or offsetting the fence into the field to avoid clearing the the brush and trees? Thank you in advance for your reply.
I have tables of conductors and guy wire, different types, and you get the span, how far between two poles, and measure the sag, how far the belly hangs down, and you can gage how much tension there is in the wire. That's how we would sag, pull it up to the correct tension.
Measuring the sag when each end of the wire is not exactly level and the ground is uneven may make those tables hard to interpret. I would think about shooting from one end to the other with a laser then measuring the SAG from the laser down to the wire in the middle. If you want to be scientifically exact.
@@davej7458 Sagging wire is not an exact function, but rather, a quick method in the field to approximate the tension of a conductor. Exactitude would be achieved by putting a, "clock," on it, in my day, something like a linear scale that registers tension on a clock-like face. Let's start with how a line crew would determine sag. The man sagging would measure from the point of attachment of the conductor, and measure down to the desired sag, drive his 12 inch Screwdriver into the pole. The man at the next pole would drive his Screwdriver as well. Sighting the belly to the point of both screwdrivers would determine the sag. Generally, it wouldn't be 1 span of wire, but maybe a dozen spans, with 1 to 3 conductors in blocks at each pole, being pulled by a tensioner, or as simple as the conductors attached to a bumper of a pickup with slings and grips. When it was close, the man at the last pole would approximate sag, catch it off in a hoist, (other professions call what linemen call a hoist, a come-along). Then, he cuts it, with plenty of extra, and adjusts it for sag. Then he does the same for all conductors. The line being pulled in, (often rigged to the old conductors being replaced, and pulled out), have varying obstructions, and sag differently in minor ways. The termination point the conductors were pulled to before tensioning may be a mile away, bit of an exaggeration, but they are all sagged by the man on the pole at the other end. Once it's sagged, a crew at each pole secures the conductors in the insulators, and perform other duties. In my experience, an inexperienced line hand, or a grunt, coming in and trying to correct seasoned line hands using the accumulated knowledge of over 100 years of pole top line construction rarely sees that man finding success. Put another way, a foreman who ignored the accepted procedure would encounter push-back from the men, and would likely bring the job in at the cost of many additional man hours. He'd probably get fired.
U don’t cut the high tension wire with the hang man knot or any termination spot bend another handle in it that left of the hand hold to twist breaks in one turn and u can run your hand and never get cut or scratched by it
Hello, thanks for the great videos! I have a basic question, for managing sheep do you like to use the high tensile wire or the poly braid or both and why? Thanks again!
I notice you guys don't do the slip knot before wrapping the wire like a lot of people do for terminations. This looks cleaner, but is it just as good? I'm wondering why most seem to do it differently.
Has anyone found a local source for these 1" fiberglass post and 2.5" corner post in North Carolina. I have an irregular shaped farm and I am looking at 13 corners that I need to install for perimeter 5 wire fencing. I am in need if some very cost effective soultions and ideas. God Bless!!!!
Mr.Judy you say not to drive the line posts until you get it tight, but this is using fiberglass for the line posts, what about with the timeless pre drilled posts where the wire is passed through the holes? Thank you , great video
Would this be considered for a perimeter sheep fence.I can’t believe those 1 inch post you used in the corner are taking that pressures. Thanks Jeff Tennessee
a 3.0 AH Lithium Battery Pak, New ...seems to last a lifetime ⚡️ Lol Because it does. Storage tip - keep Li-ion batteries @ 60-75% charge, for longer life.
I've seen poorly constructed fence with timeless posts. Using this method of adding line posts after tensioning, if your using timeless posts I guess your line posts would be tied to the wire the same as the way you were doing your corners with the soft flexible wire?
Thank you so much for your timely reply! Would you think that I could get buy on wire rated for 170,000 psi? If so does that mean that it is easier to break or I can't stretch it so tight?
Greg uses 12 gauge soft galvanized. He likes 180 psi for the fence. You can tie a know with 180 psi, you cannot with 200 psi. Their is a variety of soft galvanized less than 180 psi to use as fence ties.
I don't think that wire is 180,000 p.s.i., Could it be rated at pulling up to 180,000 pounds tension? That number sounds very high for pulling tension. Maybe I'm unfamiliar with the p.s.i. application.
I’ll help you. Uugh uugh. I grunt for you. That was cute. So you do your fence the opposite way from permanent fence. Tightening before line posts are set.
I won't buy another Rigid. I bought one, 2012?, and both my batteries need replacing, but they don't support my drill anymore. They want me to throw it away and buy another one. I'll buy Milwaukee, maybe a set, with other tools. I always buy two batteries.
@@QuentinCarter1975 that sounds like a plan. I have heard about that. eBay is replete with people selling old unsupported broken batteries for $30 apiece, "Just repack them…" I will now do a web search to do just that.
@@QuentinCarter1975 I began the process of educating myself on how to repack my batteries. I am reminded thirty years back, I would struggle doing things, (I was still getting a phone book every year), and I discovered web search es. Each time I had a project, I would struggle to figure it out, and then I would remember web searches. Every now and then-like this-I forget to do a web search. I came across a lot of batteries on eBay, all ready to be repacked, but I didn't think of researching how to do it. I am moving onward & upward. Thanks.
I've done 700 yards using a Jenny like Greg's, going through timeless line posts (through the holes), 5 slight corners (when combined made a 90 degree corner), and 2 big grade changes. I pulled it myself...not easy, but doable
@@gregjudyregenerativerancher So for inner boundaries near woods and creeks are you just running the single wire like on the video. When is the 5 wire versus 1 wire set up? I grew up laying 5 barbed wired fences everywhere
Sir greg what is the height of the fiber post and height of the high tensile wire ? How many acres if you use a electric fence energiser to accomodate ?
@@gregjudyregenerativerancher Thanks for all the helpful videos, Greg. You & the interns are fun to watch. As many have said, God bless you all! For a 4 or 5 wire HT perimeter fence, would the 1.5" fiber glass rods be enough for corner posts, or would you need braces? What size would you use for line posts? Thanks!!
@@QuentinCarter1975 I've never heard of Toledo brand. I'm a retired electrical lineman out of California, and my terminology comes from here, mainly PG&E, where I apprenticed.