Hi. Very good videos. How did you use the inlays template? On a Pin Router? What is the used thickness on the highest spot (center line) of the fretboard? thanks a lot.
good idea doing fret board that way, i havent seen many straight gibson necks most of the time if the bass side of the neck is setup straight the treble side would have relief..makes for a hard set up the guitar..gibson flaw.. thanks freddy.
1.When you are trying looking for the center line, do you use the fretboard as the reference or the neck? 2. And also when you are trying to find the centerline of the guitar what method do you use? 3.I am using Bartlett's plans, you mentioned you used other plans before trying his, what do you recommend and what were the differences in the plans? Did you prefer one set over the other? I'm asking because im building my first 59 LP replica. Thank you ahead of time if you get to answer my questions :)! These videos are instrumental in my design process, just incredible amounts of information. I would pay for a dvd of this, you should think about that.
great video as always Freddy. One question please: When you atach the binding? before or after having radiused the board? I think that routing the channel on the completed neck/board job is much more safe than cut the board wideness before attaching it on the neck. You make me inspired. Thank you very much for sharing this great details.! I'll follow every clip of you. ciao
Hi Umberto. These neck will have the traditional "nibs" so that means the binding must be installed after the frets are installed...which means after the radius.
So much doublestick tape, Freddy? These brittle rosewood boards gives easy tearouts, perhaps you dont have that problem? Great vids, man, skilled luthier with a Rush addiction, couldn`t be better.....
Actually it's not double stick tape, it's a strip of masking tape on each piece, with dots of medium CA glue on the tape. It's a new process for me so I'm still feeling out how much tape I need for a particular situation. It's really great though, there is absolutely no lateral movement once it's stuck in place. I find that carpet tape has a squishy bit of give or movement unless you clamp it down hard, and then it really grabs the wood and you can tear out splinters when removing it. So this method with the masking tape is very gentle on removal....no tearout at all, and the second best thing is that it's cheaper than carpet tape.
@@willdenham The only place I used titebond was to install the little maple strip over the truss rod. Why? it's a pretty insignificant glue joint and it's easier.
@@FreddysFrets I apologize, maybe it was the cap I saw you use Tite Bond on. I just got my 59' spec neck and body and am weighing whether to glue the neck in with hide glue or Tite Bond. I am watching your build as a reference and just want to know the best way to do everything.
