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Isn’t this what we want? I know I love it, I want to watch him make his one off tools he uses once. As long as it’s about the 4 rotor, unless it’s some funky research that might not work so he does it on the 3 rotor.
I think it is always a good idea to talk to oneself to remember everything. I know other people look at a person strange talking like that but its a great way to remember stuff.
Sodium Hydroxide is an aluminum dissolver that doesn’t destroy chromium or carbide. It’s what machinists use to remove carbide and steel bits or burrs of packed aluminum.
@@mileycyprus7210 Can damage/interact with other parts as it's a acid, and isn't guaranteed to get rid of just the aluminum. "Sodium Hydroxide" AKA Lye, has a chemical interaction with the aluminum to turn it into hydrogen gas, and is a strong base, making it less harmful to the other parts. I use it to remove the aluminum melted onto seized iron bores from 2 strokes. Where as using muriatic acid would destroy the iron.
@anonymous you still should re-hone for best results/performance since the cylinder is still scuffed up, but, soaking it in water **heavily** saturated in lye will remove the aluminum entirely from **iron** cylinders. "mixed in water?!?!? wont that make it rust?!??!" you may ask- the lye also prevents rusting while it is submerge. You can, and I have, shoved new pistons in, without re-honing first, and they work, but you can tell it doesnt make as much power.
Rob: "You just need a stack of RX7 wheels and some random wood pieces to assemble a rotary engine!" Vargas Brothers: "A bucket... You need one bucket..." Keep up the good content, always a pleasure getting to see what you are up to.
Rob, to remove aluminum from harder metals like cast iron, steel, chrome, etc., we used to use a strong caustic solution. It will eat away any aluminum contamination on other metals, but you have to be very careful of any surrounding aluminum because it will eat away at any aluminum it touches.
@@Knuf024 yeah that would be cool but ik for sure ken won’t be driving next time since he’s with Audi now 😢, it makes me sad he ditched Ford but glad to see what comes in the future. Imagine a 1400hp tt awd r8 😍😍
@@seanissomething I assume so but it’ll just be different seeing someone other than ken drive it but yeah someone else should be able to, I can’t see why they couldn’t.
Hey Rob, you have progressed so much, that we, mechanical engineers, love to hear and learn with your videos. At least, that's what happens to me. Thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge. Cheers from Santiago, Chile.
You have no idea how much I appreciate the depth and detail you put into these build videos, I learn new things every single time. Seriously thank you for teaching us such valuable information and tips and advice.
Rob, unsure if you've ever seen Angel Motorsports but they also use Hylomar but have it in like a syringe with a steel tip - makes getting it into those tight coolant seal gaps in the housings that much easier! Just a thought, love the work - huge fan from NZ.
I love how technical you get and how much detail you guys show us. I’ve worked on plenty of engines but never a rotary but feel like I could knock it out.
Rob have you tried aviation apex seals like the Vargas brothers have done? They talk very highly of them, and as an aircraft tech I would imagine anything with "aviation" in front of the name usually means they're tougher & would handle more abuse.
the aviation seals are known to be very harsh on housings, they are good for drag or racing applications because they are very durable and because its common to rebuild engines often and replace parts but for more of a street car they are not very good
The 3 rotor ran them for years. The housings were worn but also ran for 9 years over 750 hp. I am not currently testing them but just giving full disclosure
I’ve always wanted to see the details of putting together a rotary. With your calm demeanor and efficient explanations I think you’d make a great instructor! Thank you so much rob!
Haven't had a rotary since the 12a in my old '80. First FR car, taught me a lot about car handling and maintenance. Thanks for the great content Rob and Isaiah!
It's pretty cool seeing Hylomar sealant being used in different ways, especially building a 2000hp 4 rotor. I've used an Hylomar aviation version before on Pratt-Whitney V2500 engines.
I LOVE the amount of detail you put into these videos along with the wiring harness! Keep up the amazing work I know it's rough doing the longer videos but thanks again.
Ngl. Totally flexed some rotary knowledge at work today because everything I've learned watching. I love having a job that actually encourages my passion, cars. And knowledge about it. 100% I've seen you build engines so many times and so in depth, I could rebuild one and I've never even touched a rotary. Love what you teach. Because that's what your doing. Keep it up, I'm always here
honestly this channel is great show of the difference between someone who talks about big power and someone who makes big power. just the diligence and attention to detail dont even need to be said. its quite amazing really
I LOVE LOVE the 4 rotor progress updates. Thank you so much Rob. I all enjoy your variety of content. I felt so engaged watching you explain and measure the really intricate and rotary-specify processes of the 4 rotor reassembly. Thank you for those technical details. One day I'm going to build a badass 13B or 20B and I'm going to review these videos (and read the whole internet) completely before I buy anything for the build. I'm so excited to see the 4 rotor one day line up next to Cleetus and Leroy.. hopefully we can watch the 4 rotor (name?) Do a drigt in the same weekend or Marbe a half mile event in short time? You're building the car to be so flexible and such a porterhouse AWD superstar. I'm so excited too see this thing come to life and then continue to breath and better... And better. Please don't leave us in the dark on this car going forward. Thanks a bunch for this content Rob.
Ok so hot tip, saw at 14:35 or so you flip that puppy and realized the tolerances are going to depend on the surface you're assembling on.. coming from the 3D printer world I can tell you that glass is about one of the flattest surfaces that can be easily obtained. If glass doesn't sound like a pleasant assembly surface I think with your budget you can also buy surfaces specifically made to be extremely flat that are made of alternative materials.
Wow, thought you would have been down the hylomar road already. Be mindful to work quickly with it, more importantly, don’t apply it to the o-rings and let them sit and then go take a lunch half way through the build. It WILL cause the seals to swell - ask me how I know 🤦🏻♂️ Like most of the materials you put in your motors I’m sure you’ve done your research into it’s origins and intended uses. It’s definitely a solid addition to the assembly.
This is more like a tutorial and omg i'm enjoying every bit of it. Rotaryheads like never get bored of it. These stuff usually a secret, but Rob actually reveals it in detail. Thanks Rob! You are awesome as always! Rotary fan from Thailand!
Hylomar is great for its intended use. It must be clean and stay clean. It's nice to be able to take apart and readjust if necessary. As for sealing make sure the directions are followed because it doesn't take much to get the job done. There is a video by the manufacturer that explains the different grades and suggested uses
Hey Rob, long time fan, You have been very interested in oil performance and the science behind it. I think you should look into Mo Glide friction reducer.
Wow, never seen someone putting this much effort into his engines. Lovin' it, and wish you all the best for the rest of this insane trip :D Greetz from Germany
A rob and vargas brothers build would be awesome... I love how far you have come. Your very methodical and it is awesome to see real home made viable parts coming to fruition through sheer will and passion. Keep up the wonderful work!
The cool thing is they really are almost like Legos. It fairly easy to just make a comparison to a 2 rotor. So 2000 HP is approximately the same as a 2 rotor at 1000 HP. The recipe for that is fairly well known. Which is great for this project. It has good odds for success.
Brilliant video Rob. I really hope you can make the 2000 reliably. Good luck to you. 500hp per rotor is pretty amazing. Cant wait to hear what that is going to sound like. Cheers from Australia
Totally awesome watching this go together. And more than a little bit of pride at the mention of New Zealand engineering. Living in Australia now, but born and lived in NZ for 58 years! ;)
Amazing vid! best ending too, not the usual random chop. We need a rob dahm month of freedom! All the projects around the garage, that F1 and cosworth engine!
seals effect endplay with everything. i work for a company checking endplay all day. never thought i would have but i'm gaining so much confidence from valuable experience. i may rebuild my own transmissions and engines but not diffs lol
Rob Dahm. One of the few poeple on earth who can buy a 50k+ engine which probably was the best of it's kind and almost single handedly improve it significantly. But don't get me wrong this feat is still no excuse for the abrupt video endings
With the side seals expanding with heat as all metals do, now much longer to they get? .025 clearence cold but do you know what that is at operating temperature? Just curious cuz that's when it matters..... Also could you use piano wire for your cooling seals. If the high hp want to spit the cases. Like with head gaskets with wire in them. Just a thought
We take our rotarys seriously over here in NZ great to see the new technology break throughs you have made Rob, cant wait to see this thing of art BRAAAP yew!
Rob I used to use an oscillating bobbin sander. I made my own sleeves with 600 & 1200 emery paper and some super glue. It works well and just polishes back to the chrome and the bobbin and table helps keep everything parallel.
Rob, where is the theoretical bottleneck in this engine with regards to hp; eventually would the e shaft tapers start to slip and take the keys with them? Or shear at a keyway first? Edit/Reply; I think it's interesting we have several well thought out opinions below, but no clear consensus. Rob we'd love for you to chime in! I am betting you have modeled all the internal components and know that the e shaft will hold 2khp (or have been assured it will by the original machinist). I am still wondering what fails first. The RPM vs Apex seal lifting is interesting, but as you stack rotors up to 6 lets say, I would bet that at a functional RPM the size limitations of the e shaft which cannot grow start to become an issue first. Also, it's not like he is gonna put this on an engine dyno to gently find the limits; he's gonna rev it to 6500 and 2 step the launch and he still doesn't have a slipper clutch. He'll stay in on the dyno up to 7k all wheel drive. If the clutch, driveshaft, trans and tires can hold 2k I would think the next thing in line is the e shaft.
I don't know much about rotarys other than what I learned from Daddy Dahm. It seems to me like apex seals are going to be an issue as indicated by the wear he polished out of the rotor housing in the beginning. I would think side seals would be the next weak point but once again, I don't know a ton about rotarys.
My money's on the apex seals lifting off the housing's surface just after crossing the area where the two peritrochoid 'lobes' meet. Passing that point the rotor apex is traveling tangential to the peritrochoid surface so there isn't really any centripetal force helping the apex seal maintain contact with the housing when the housing shape needs the the apex seal to reverse direction; ie. radially into then out-of the apex seal slot. A loss of sealing here will cause a drop in compression and limit power. Also, the speed at which the apex seal needs to change direction is a function of RPM so the loss of sealing is the limiting factor there; the limited RPM limits overall engine power.
@@evancourtney7746 oil is going to be your limiting factor. To fix the issue you're talking about, you just need stronger springs behind the apex seal. but, from the extra spring pressure you're going to start pressing out your oil film
Ultimately. It depends on torque output. If torque is kept under control and revs used to achieve hp. Then really its how well the engine can breathe. Again all engines are air pumps. More air. More fuel more powa baby
I love love love that Rob is showing us all this, remember when he was working with Abel and we didn't see shit and all was a secret... thank you Rob ❤
Why not just use 100% acetone as a degreaser ??? Why cheaper than break clean and works as good or better(better imo) when I changed from brake clean to acetone to clean projects before tig welding made a world of difference!!
Rob, that was totally Bad Ass❗The rotory Corvette is on fire🔥loved it I am super happy for you that finally your results and a your hard work is paying off....👍🏽
good job, you just annihilated the surface dressing of the rotor.. The surface finish has been the hardest thing for plasma coaters to do, it is VERY specific.. and you just sanded it off, this is akin for honing a cylinder to a mirror polish, no hatching.
@@josephwhitley1963 there is a factory surface porosity, a 'dressing', that holds oil to keeps the housing face lubricated. Just as cross hatching on cylinder walls, but finer. Shops that started to plasma coat worn housings were going mental trying to reproduce the surface.. it's very specific. in both topography and application ( has it's own type of axial cross hatching. ) Rob , in hitting it with that flapper wheel, polished the surface, removing the 'dressing' the rotor housing surface will no longer hold oil making the housing and seal Mu or friction coefficient go up dramatically and that will increase heat, materials wear and degradation
Hopefully we'll get some content of the four rotor actually being driven more than once. Been a garage queen since it was drivable. None the less in stoked for the content.
