Metric threading with an imperial leadscrew , Quick Draw McGraw style & some rotary table action as we continue with the DTI holder build . #GTWRIndicatorHolder
At 11:40 it looks like your dividing head is so huge it's sitting on the ground!!! Great build Max, love the embellishments you have added. Quality workmanship as always. Thank you for your videos.
This is the only place I've seen the technique you used for cutting metric threads on a lathe with an imperial lead screw. It's very clever and simple. I think that, for it to work, the carriage must not be moved while the half-nuts are disengaged and it's easiest if the thread indicator dial does less than 1 rev before re-engaging the half-nuts for the reverse tool movement (otherwise you have to keep track of the revs of the dial after disengaging the half-nuts).
It does not matter if the carriage moves a tad , but it does if the thread dial does more than 1 turn , generally the indicator will only do about a 1/4 turn . Cheers .
Finally made that milestone ! Must send you those drawings . No doubt you will pick up & blast past me when your back in the game ! I will probably still be screwing roofing sheets on ( hopefully in 6 months ! ) Cheers Tom .
Thanks Max! This is absolutely my favourite series on RU-vid at the moment. So much good info, fantastic to see how you go about it. Also finally the front/side views on the diagram make sense now about the dovetail area! Cheers mate.
Thanks . It's because the dovetail is on a round surface , caught me out the first time i had looked at it , used to dovetails on a square surface ! Cheers .
Another nice & shiny part .. LOL your thread came out spot on, and looks like a very nice fit..LOL Even the Radius cut looks good. But .. What can we expect, Except what looks like Perfection with eases . Keep up your great tuition . waiting to see the next step . Thanks Max
Looking at the hole in the mill table, nearly did the same in my BP clone using a hole saw the pilot drill, just went shy of the table and went down the Tee slot without hitting it. Had a workmates working night shift on the large Richard's horizontal borer machining large heat exchanger mounted on 6 ft Vee blocks, fell asleep, woke up to find the closest vee block had all but disappeared!
I'm going to have to experiment with your Metric threading trick there. My lathe is inch based as well and I have always had to leave the lead screw engaged.
Excellent work Max - I learn tons from your videos. I had not known about the risk of not clamping at 90 degrees, thank you for the tip. Leaving as much as 0.2mm on the radius to allow for hand filing is a great idea too. I should have done that on the indicator arm. Next time! Cheers, Craig
@@swanvalleymachineshop The arm is done, and 1.5 of the swivel pins is done. Just need to film doing the shoulder on the back on the second swivel pin. The place needs a tidy up first :) Something quicksr/easier next, perhaps knobs and washers.
Dang that's looking good Max! And thanks for sharing the special tips, were always learning something. Gota say I was little nervous during the radius cutoff, looks like you knew right were to stop. Cheers from the USA
G’day Max. Those are such small parts to work with, I’m afraid I’d be all thumbs, good thing you have the magnifying glass. Thanks for sharing how it’s made. Cheers, Peter
That came out well.👍 Just a small point but that could not be considered climb milling as the tooth is entering and cutting the work at right angles not along the length.
The first roughing side was conventional milling , all others were climb cuts . It's the rotation of the cutter in relation to the direction of travel . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop Not tryong to argumentative but climb milling, the one to be feared by beginners, is when the cutter tries to drag the work with the backlash because of the rotation but if the cutter is entering and cutting the work at approximately right angles to the cut it cannot be considered climbing as there is little or nothing for the cutter to drag, having already been cut away. However you like to describe it, it is a great way to reduce burrs.
@@chrisstephens6673 Hi Chris , I don't normally use another machinist's video for an example , but have a quick look at a video by Joe Pye . Reduce burrs & chips , at 8:45 he is doing the same job . This might be helpful . Cheers .
Thanks Max. I wasn't sure there for a while how you were going to cut the radius but it made sense in the end. Was there another way of doing that? Thanks for sharing.
It could have been done the same way as the one on the bronze arm . It also could be done by a pin through the hole & in the vice & keep moving the part around & clean up the flats with a file .
