A note about speeds and feeds found in your favorite reference. The figures given are for a production environment. They are determined from a balance of tool life (i.e. tool cost) and metal removal rates. In the hobby shop generally you want the cutting tools to last as long as possible. Taking this into account high speed tooling should be run at about 60% of the given figures for high speed and work up from there. If you get up to 80% of the given rates you are doing just fine. Carbide and ceramic insert tools don't perform well when slowed down. The rub for the home machinist is you usually don't have the horsepower and machine rigidity to really make the inserts last and remove metal like you would expect. You end up taking cuts that are too shallow and feed rates that too slow which drastically shorten insert life. For this reason I don't bother with insert carbide tools. I use American made cemented carbide lathe tools that are much less expensive and are easy to resharpen on a bench grinder Aluminum oxide wheel by hand. I grind them like I would high speed tools and use them as if they were high speed tools. Your favorite tool supplier has the correct grade for the material you machining and they cost less than one insert. Cheers from NC/USA
The day I added a 2x72" belt sander was the day I realized it was destined to be the most important tool in my shop. Perhaps not a first purchase, but I built one for about $500. Years of use now, I highly recommend it as a support tool!
Amen to that, and I can't imagine a better tool for grinding cutters than one that is designed to put a razor's edge on heat-treated knives. You could even make a jig to do all kinds of grinding profiles perfectly and consistently.
Thanks for the side bar on surface speed and its effect on drill speed. I wish you'd do a video just on this so I could share it with my jeweler friends who don't believe it and think they should always drill at the highest speed possible for _reasons_ which make opposite sense to reality. OR some of them think you should always drill at the slowest speed possible to avoid burning bits and on small bits which don't go very far in one revolution end up running _under_ the right speed by quite a bit. Hopefully you'll include the feeds part of speeds and feeds and talk about how fast to bring the spindle down.
I just found your videos today and have been binging while enjoying my covid! I am a retired educator of 30 years, and I am really impressed with the care and clarity that you put into your work. Also, I love how you focus on how to get it done with hobby level equipment. brava :)
Many of my wood turning friends run the lathe or drill press too fast for drilling, especially with large Forstner bits. It is common for such folks to have Forstner bits with blue teeth due to overheating. The folks also do not appreciate that the blue means they have lost the temper. They just apply more pressure or speed the next time and wonder why the bit is not drilling well. Good video. Dave.
If the Forstner bits are made of high speed steel, they did not loose temper cutting wood, even if the tips are blue. HHS takes 1500+ degrees F to anneal.
Most of my turning friends have cheap import Forstner bits like my set. The set did not state HSS, so I expect it is e.g., O1 or some other alloy which will lose its temper. HSS is preferred but a lot more expensive. Dave.
And I have yet to see ANYONE on youtube properly use a hack saw. 40 to 60 strokes a minute and use the entire blade. Feet at sholder width with you toes on the plane of the cut. = First week apprentice stuff. With the proper blade and technique you can give the angle grinder boys a run for their money on a 1/2" grade 3 bolt in a vise. ,,,, And cut square and to length too and handle the part you cut off too without dunking it in water first.
I'm a hacksaw fan too. I find I can get pretty decent speeds. One thing which helps is WD40 as a lubricant, liberally applied to the blade and cut. Makes the sawing much easier and faster. But I do like my bandsaw for straight cuts and mitres. They're much neater.
Re: unattended machines, the horizontal bandsaw (blue-green) in our shop caught fire one day... smoke from the motor, then flames by the time we sprinted to unplug it! So, yeah, don’t run out to Dunks after starting a cut...
"High speed stealing..." I love it. Between you and James on Clough42 I find myself, watching and enjoying, more than the other channels that I subscribe to by a wide margin. Some time back I made an Excell spreadsheet that had an entry for each material with a surface feet per minute column. From that I had a place for a diameter then the calculation gave me a rpm recommendation. Works for turning and for drilling. I can't seem to keep charts handy and always have a computer nearby. I love (really, really enjoy) your videos. I especially like the variety of subjects and that you show mistakes (failures) along with successes. From my perspective, this is an outstanding method for teaching. Keep up the great work!
That had me remember they had to shoot a bottle of acetylene that was burning some years ago. It was in a small city close to me, so they had to evacuate people from a radius of about half a km from the bottle. Beeing outside the sniper had a clear shot at it. A acetylene bottle in a burning building is on another level of dangerous, as I'm sure you learned about.
@@johnnyjames7139 I bought one of those a few years ago and it works great but the MAP bottles cost $50 each. I recently priced an oxy-acc kit and it was $1,200 with bottles. That means after 22 bottle of MAP gas, you've bought an oxy-acc kit but you don't have an oxy-acc kit. The question is how long will it take to go through 22 bottles? I've been through 7 or 8 so far.
I used to work for a company that went out to clean up derailments. We cut up rail cars with propane & oxygen torches. Way cheaper than using acetylene. The only disadvantage was it took longer to start a cut. Once started it cut just as fast. Big torches! I kind of think that once the cut is stated much of the fuel comes from burning the iron with the oxygen. Can anyone confirm that?
Woodworker here, on the note about the drill press also being a press. I was clamping some sheets of 1/2 inch plywood together to make a thicker sheet for a router table (overkill, whatever). It was about 18x24 inches. After applying glue. I was able to get clamps around the sides, but not in the middle. Aside from filling a buckets with water and grabbing every piece of iron in the house to use gravity (and only getting 60-100 pounds depending on how hard I scrounged around), I decided to use the drill press. I put the work on the table, loosened the chuck to the point that the jaws retracted inside, cranked the quill down on the work and strapped a single 15 weight to the quill handle. This was when I was just starting out and didn't realize clamping cauls where a thing. But hey, it worked out.
Battleships actually did more fueling than refueling. They have more fuel capacity than the support ships. So you would just fill the battleship up, then use it to refuel it's smaller escort ships and subs. That way the tanker spent the less time with the fleet, and and more time traveling. Battleships also had way way more amenities than anything short of an Carrier. Most of the ship is "empty" space to keep it floating, so they have all kinds of fun stuff. Barbers, commissaries, and mail rooms to name a few. As well as full on machine shops, motor shops and electronics shops.
A few other options for torches: if you just need to heat and solder/braze, an air-acetylene torch works very well. They are usually aimed at plumbers for soldering copper water pipe, but they work very well for all sort of metalwork that doesn't need welding temperatures. Another good option is Oxy-MAPP (or whatever the MAPP alternative is these days). This doesn't get quite as hot as Oxy-Acetylene, so not great for welding, but it's much hotter than Propane or MAPP alone. It's especially great for large-scale heating since you aren't limited by the 1/10 rule. This lets you run a big rosebud off fairly small tanks.
Quinn, I would recommend instead of a dedicated bench grinder, to get one that has a bench grinder on one side and a 2 inch belt sander on the other. I use the belt sander way more than the grinder side of mine to clean up parts and to do some shaping as well.
Another great video! Your knowledge is phenomenal as is your willingness to share with us, the uninformed masses. Great stuff. I've been binge watching your videos and see no reason to quit now.
I once had a lovely home office 15 * 12 foot loft conversion. Now I have 4 feet in a corner because it has become my wifes' sewing room. Where else could she store the 2 sewing machines, 2 sergers, 2 coverstitch machines, 2 dress dummies, a sewing table and a wardrobe full of her fabric stash. The thread storage takes up a cubic yard. When I do get my hobby machine shop I am going to put 6 different types of boimetric locks on it to stop her from stealing that space as well. So thank you Blondihacks - in the first minute you triggered me into the hell that has become my home office..... Oh by the way I work at home all the time programming ........
Blondihacks, not quite sure how long I have been a loyal viewer of your channel but every video has been worth the wait! Love your humor. Don't overlook the importance of the lowly (really not so lowly) vice!
Agreed, I have a 3-1/2" Craftsman (USA made) and a 4-1/2" Wilton bullet (made in 73) that is like new and still wanting another vise. I am looking at the Doyle 4" sold at HF which is made with 60K ductile iron like the older Wiltons are made of and if caught on sale can be had for around $100 US. Also a decent set of aluminum jaw inserts is very handy to have with them for holding round stock or holding something without marring it.
@@MegaLostOne Clough42 had a nice tip on putting thrust bearing on Wilton vise. Easy mod and makes a difference. I think the video was something like top ten tools.
No single vice can do everything you need, but most of us don't have room on our benches for more than one, if we even have room for that. A neat trick that I've seen on a few benches was where a receiver hitch was mounted under the front or side of the bench (usually with a leg or support under it), then multiple vices, grinders, small anvils, etc would be mounted onto quarter inch thick plates and welded to hitch stubs. Let's you change out the location of your vice and tooling quick and easy, and you can usually get to it on three sides. A nice addition is if you have the room, is to weld a heavy pipe into a tire rim and put another hitch mount on the top. See that setup for vices and grinders a lot.
@@richardmorton1310 Wilton changed their design over the years and some of them didn't use a thrust washer for pulling the movable jaw in, my vise is one of them and since it uses the yoke over the screw as the thrust washer I cannot put a thrust bearing in mine for that but thanks for the tip.
@@rallen7660 I actually should have typed my reply differently. I have the Craftsman and while it is a nice vise it's a cast iron and not a ductile iron so I plan to replace the Craftsman with the Doyle vise when I catch it on sale. The ductile iron vises are a lot stronger than the cast iron vises.
The other big bonus to the band saw is you get to keep the drops instead of turning them into chips. Im in the commercial millwork business and the band saw is a money maker in the shop. Instead of planing off stock to chips in the dumpster your re-sawing usable material off the blank.
As a fabricator, it takes nothing out of my day to say there's nothing wrong with flux core as a tool. It's DCEN, resists breeze, capable of much longer runs than stick, and keeps low rent jobs out of my shop.
I went the stick/tig route, but if anyone asked me what welder to get first I would tell them a mig machine with flux core. Perfect for hobby stuff and when they get more serious they're a bottle of c25 and roll of wire away from mig, and if they get really serious, there's nothing 6011 and 7018 can do that gas shielded flux core can't do.
Me this morning: "need to talk to my family about a small budget for establishing a hobby metal-workshop." - Watching Blondihacks tools video: "uhm, oh, ahem,... maybe later" :)
Oxypropane works for everything except welding. I use it for cutting, heating, and brazing. The reason it doesn't work for welding is it's very hard to get a neutral flame otherwise it would work for welding too.
The chemistry of the oxygen acetylene flame has a two stage burning process that consumes the ambient oxygen in the atmosphere, correctly adjusted it will give a "neutral " flame, the only flame that can be used for fusion welding. Ray.
Get a cordless angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, and wire brush. It’s a little more primitive than a bandsaw (and messier), but still extremely flexible and fast.
Such a great video… just moved shops to my big shed and we’ll see if I can squeeze some more cool tools in there! Maybe i might get a bandsaw next… it would be nice to stop cutting 4 in. Stainless with a hacksaw..
I've had one of the 4X6 bandsaws for 25? years. The basic machine is OK, but as with so many Chinese ... cheap, many things will need some adjusting, modifying. Once that is done they work quite well. Lots of videos. I got lucky and was given an old Italian, much abused, industrial cold saw. What a difference! Much faster, beautifully smooth cuts. Heavy vice, blade turns away from the fence so parts fall free and never jamb into the fence slot. I'm using steel blades.
Got a small tank of shielding gas for my little Hobart MIG welder. They don't have to be huge. (And, wow, what a difference it made - my only prior experience with welding had been with the flux-core wire that had come with the machine.)
Additionally, you can weld mild steel with CO2 shield gas instead of Argon, it's somewhat cheaper and a 5kg bottle of CO2 lasts way way longer than a 5 liter Argon bottle.
If it's total versatility at the least cost is what you are after an AC/DC buzz box will outshine all other processes hands down, Tere is even stick aluminum..The skill level is quite a bit higher, but practice makes perfect.
Maybe not for everyone but a good belt grinder is a tool I am not willing to live without. Can save tons of time on non critical features or for prepping stock for welding
There are helical attachments for D-bit grinders. Great for touching up flutes. They cam as you extend what could be considered a spindle. Some attachments just handle a set flute count.
After I bought my Bridgeport a year ago, I asked my machinist buddy if there was any point in keeping my floor mount drill press around, since the BP should be able to do everything the drill press could. He said yes absolutely, use the comparatively "disposable" drill press for hogging out big holes in nasty steel rather than risking breaking Bridgeport parts doing a lot of routine fabrication tasks.
On the subject of surface grinders, yes 99% of them are big and pricey, thankfully, if your lucky you can find a smaller bench top one like I just have! They may look small, but boi are they heavy and SOLID! So if you can can find one of these, I’d highly recommend the investment as you get all of the benefits of a surface grinder, but not the drawbacks of big floor footprint or often massive price tag!
not everyone requires the devils bean to function. some of us are quite ok with some caffeinated drink (like coca cola, or another coke producer since coca cola has something against me because of my skin colour) or some energy drink ... or we just sleep enough. either way, no reason to drink that bitter, shitty tasting devils diarrhea or even become addicted to it.
@@russellstarr9111 It's the devilswork! these are corrupted cocoa beans, nothing more. and instead of one day being made into delicious chocolate, they have to suffer, be cast into fire, tortured and crushed between stones and then finally boiled as a beansoup as well. don't ask me what they did to deserve this fate, though ...
Besides the big boy tools, the one that gets the most use in my shop is a rechargable angle grinder. Great for both cutting and grinding/sanding jobs. Mine is a Makita with brushless motor.
Wood band saw sure, but a metal saw has a slow enough surface rate to give you more than enough time to react. Unless you pinch your finger in a horizontal saw and fall on it, it takes quite a while to cut a finger with one. When cutting small, fine things in my vertical metal saw, you just feel the teeth hitting your fingernails and stop pushing.
I have a oxygen mapp torch from my HVAC days. Mapp is cheap and relatively stable, its is fuel, so less stable than Argon. As you were talking you said ‘want’ and ‘need’ as if the words had different meanings. I am confused. I want a tool therefor I need that tool. Am I missing something?
As far as I know Drill Presses come in two varieties, Metal or wood. The wood drill presses usually cannot run slow enough for large drills with out overheating the drill and dulling it. I think most wood drill presses run at about 700 RPM thereabouts. Metal band saws will run at about 300 RPM or slower. Also, most Metal Drill Presses I have seen use three drive pulleys to obtain the slower speeds. So, if you see a Drill Press with only one drive belt and two drive pulleys it probably is for wood working or very small drills (3'16" or less) be sure you get the right tool for the job.
OMG, THANK YOU for the Elephant joke reference! I tend to use that exact same analogy frequently at work, and the Venezuelan/American Chief Developer always looks at me like I’ve had a little stroke.
Quinn, GREAT work - as always!! Three questions: 1) where would you recommend your viewers look for those ‘surface speed charts for drills’? B) what is that contraption on the stud to the right of your drill press, with what appears to be a DeStaCo clamp attached? III) in your lovely discussion of how oxy/acetylene can give you “that finger of God heat” you mention the ‘bomb in the room’ issue of acetylene and not exceeding the capability of 1/10 of capacity of tank per hour… how would an old white-haired humble weekend warrior do that math? I’ve known since I was knee-high to a grasshopper that there was liquid acetone lurking in there - and why - but no one ever bothered to ‘splain how to know how close one might get to dancing with the devil… Always like your vids, ALWAYS like your humor, huge THANK YOU for helping me get thru the pandemic!
Your pedagogy is most excellent - thank you. Have you tried cbn wheels? Woodturners wonders has a 8" model that runs 110$ and is top notch. I have a wood turning tool sharpening set up by oneway tools called the wolverine (their Canadian eh) That has a stone grader with a single diamond point tip that dresses the wheel flat - you could so make this in a weekend I bet. Great stuff - been watching machine videos for a bit and yours are great.
I do like the idea of making lunch and enemies at the same time. Do you have any idea how much time that will save me? Time to buy a set of torches I guess.
Really? You made me buy Noga deburring tools, a co-axial alignment indicator, fancy bellows to protect my ways... now I have to buy a portable band saw? You're insatiable. Have you *no* regard for my bank balance?
Damn it Quinn, when are you going to post something/anything I can disagree with! I hate a post were there is nothing said I can find fault with! When I had to make a complete change in life year ago I left behind both a full woodworking shop and a small machine shop. I left with lots of hand tools but only the money for a couple of power tools. My priority's were: a floor height drill press, a (woodworking type) bandsaw, and a bench grinder. I'm better equipped now, but I firmly stand by my initial choices.
A portable band saw with a stand is probably one of the most used tools in my garage. I have a full size mill, an atlas lathe and wish I had bought a portaband sooner.
Thanks for the tour. With the 6*4 bandsaw you may find that the upper blade guide actually has two threaded holes that you can put the tightening knob in so you can get the guide a couple of inches closer to the work. I found out by mistake when I unscrewed the knob right out. Also on mine the plate (angle bracket) that supports the spring adjusting screw where it joins the adjusting rod was installed 180 degrees the wrong way. This meant that you used half the thread of the screw before there was any tension on the spring that controls feed rate. I reversed the plate and now can get the saw to point of balance which gives you the full range of feed rate available. This is handy for set up some times to so you don't need a third hand to hold the saw up.
Killing wasps and shooing solicitors with an oxy-acetylene torch FTW! I still would prefer a Winchester P94 plasma rifle :) Being a broke as shit Polish trans woman on the autism spectrum with some mental health issues, I wish I could afford setting up a small machining shop and make almost anything mechanical, but I'm still pretty happy to have an electronics lab (the core of my work is electronics) and a place where I can access a welder, 3D printer, SMD rework station and some other more expensive stuff. No CNC mill unfortunately. Had that at hand back in my old lab, but after I moved out, I still haven't made arrangements with anyone who has one and works on it. First time on your channel and I already like you. Gonna stay for longer. It may have something to do with me being a nerd, a self-taught maker and a gal in her 30s who really enjoys connecting with others like me,
Great video, Quinn 😊. I literally sold my baby (1966, Chevy Bel Air) to buy my oxy/acetylene tanks and torch set. When you need it you reeeally need it! 🤣. That goes for all of those tools. I initially bought a cold cut saw, but without buying a bunch of expensive blades for different materials it's just not nearly as versatile as my old bandsaw. It mostly just sits on the floor however, super great for cutting tubing for for fabrication as it's just soooo fast 😁. Being a person with a shop in perpetual evolution I can relate to all of this. Welding bench will be next for me... if I can dig it out of the snowbank to continue that particular build 😏. Cheers!
As a note, don't get a 6" grinder. Get at least an 8" grinder if you're grinding tools. The wheels for a 6" are terribly limited, they glaze fast, and if you're grinding lathe tools it's a lot of extra work and the metal removal is very slow. I can't even find the wheels I want for a 6", so get a larger grinder for faster metal removal.
@@Blondihacks Yea it's painful. And when you're grinding tools you're not removing that much material before it gets hot, so it tends to be a lot more quick grinds and quenching.
Hi Quinn, I got tired of a drill press key dangling around on a string so I knocked apart a toasted computer hard drive and stuck one of the wickedly strong rare earth magnets on the front of the press. The key is always in the same spot, easy to grab and it never comes off during drilling operations. When the chuck is tight one just has to toss the key in the general direction of the magnet. Wish my drill press went down to 100 RPM :-( At min. 340 I'm stuck at 1-1/8" bits.
Kettle and a tea caddy . I rate all problems in cups. Soldering up a boiler , that's a 3 cup problem. Changewheels for a wierd thread , 2 cuppas at most.
Before I built my 2x72 belt grinder I used my bench grinder a lot. Now I’m all but ready to throw it away. To anyone who wants to grind HSS tools and has the space and funds for a belt grinder, I highly recommend it. That tool has become one of the most used machines in my shop. Rounding corners for fabrication work, grinding HSS tooling, it’s an absolute beast. With the water catch bucket, and the abrasive fabric backed, it is so much cleaner than the bench grinder as well. The abrasive grit that comes off a bench grinder is atrocious.
I've seen a few knifemakers set up their belt grinders with a sliding platen holding a mag chuck, and using it as a simple surface grinder. I don't think you'll get super accurate dimensions, but it's an easy and cheap way to put some nice surfaces on parts and tooling.
Very good vid. Just 2 criticisms. Don''t use Acetylene at all unless you REALLY nned it (Like welding cast iron with real cast iron filler) There is nothing the average hobbyist can't do with Propane. (We have had the very same acetylene bottle in the rack for almost 25 years and we are a heavy industrial electrical/lmillwright contractor. . As a comparison you can hang your hat on we have been know to go through over w dozen full size industrial bottles of oxygen in a month,(when we do not use liquid oxy) All with propane as the fuel gas. And FYI, we have 2-Plasma cutting units. to help with the oxy=fuel chores, Acetylene is strictly for welding cast iron here. The other thing is your strict adherence to not mentioning used industrial machinery. You can actually get a Reed surface grinder like Don Baily at Suburban too users that will still carry a couple tenths for half what you paid for your mill and a KO Lee Tool and Cutter grinder like Steve Summers uses for half of that,,,,,(Check HGR in Euclid OH ) With the advent of cheep VFD boxes 3 ph is no longer a problem at all and I don't want to hear the Chi-Com crap is way better then the "clapped out old American Iron is worthless bit. Some of the best vids I have see are of you and others making repairs to their brand new chi-com machines that seem to fall apart all the time. But then right now I need to put a new power feed belt on the Brown and Sharp#3 Surface grinder. It was made in 1942. Not bad considering I was made in 1946, Wounder if the commie junk will have problems like that in 75 years of industrial use. Still would love to see you turned loose in a bigger shop with a Tree Mill and a Clausing Lathe, but make no mistake. I think you do wounders in your shop. Hats off to 'ya. We never seen to have time to do the spit and polish work that is the rule in your shop. Keep up the good work. .
Well-considered video, thanks. A thought about the D-bit grinder site - have you considered using a heavy curtain or other easily placed/removed screen to protect your lathe? Never have to lug that Kuhlmann again. (I have one too, boy they're hefty!)
Today i learned something new.. I have used oxyacetylen welders Since i was 15 and totally missed that there is a limitaton of how much gas you can drain out before it becomes a safety issue.. I guess i have to go and read some more about it.. Btw you have an awesome RU-vid channel👍
anglegrinder,tig-welder,aircompressor,bandsaw and a beltgrinder..and offcourse the lathe and mill..cant live whithout them-and honestly,fluxcore is garbage on a mig
Lights. That's the other one that I'd add to the list. Especially if you have a basement shop. It's surprising just how much more difficult things are when you are straining to see something. Now you can get 5,000+ lumen LED shop lights for 10-20 bucks. I'd recommend cool white (4,000-4,100K) color temperature lights. The daylight (5,000-6,500k) lights are too blue for indoor use. Feels like an alien autopsy. ;) BTW, as a comparison, a traditional 2-lamp shop light is about 2,600 lumens per lamp, so 5,200 lumens total. I just relamped my basement shop lights with 4,000lumen LED bulbs and the transformation is AMAZING. It's an invigorating amount of light.
I have the same bandsaw as you and wondering which blades you use? I have been using the Starrett BM1014 Bi-Metal Unique Porta-Band Blade, 44-7/8-Inch by 1/2-Inch by 0.020-Inch, 3 Pack which I buy off Amazon. Can you give me a reference ot a good blade? These blades although they cut, they always get a small broken section right at the weld which causes hte blade to skip and eventually jam.
Another thing to think about when outfitting a shop is the size of tools you need to compliment each other. Your tool set seems to be very well suited to the work you do. I've seen others who have a Sherline lathe and a full sized Mill. They do not play well together. One has to think about moving parts from machine to machine and if the work envelope of one machine will not hold what the previous machine worked on then things are difficult. Keep up the good work. lg no neat sig line
Agree with this completely. I've done everything I need, lots of heating, cutting, and brazing, with an oxy tank and propane grill tank. Easy refills. It's only a problem if you plan to torch weld or you need maybe a rosebud, but there are also bigger LP tanks if you're going to heat that much
I think my local markerspace took the wrong lessons from this. The only tools they have are MIG, TIG, and Laser (?!) welders, an absolutely ancient crappy horizontal bandsaw, and bench grinders.
"Abom-size tooling" :D - now thats a fine unit of measurement. But I think it is a tad too big. We need something smaller for our day-to-day measurement needs, say miliAbom maybe? "Hey bud, pass me a 200 miliAbom wrench" :D.
From the UK perspective, oxy-acetylene is problematic. Rental tanks are expensive for only occasional use and often not available in the buy the tank,pay only for refils market. But the main issue is the fire risk; the Fire Brigade will ask if you have acetylene in a shop and if you say yes, they will set up fixed hoses and then a 100m exclusion zone around your shop/house. They are just extremely safety concious of the explosion risk. Knowing this, I went for oxy-propane, which is hot enough for most hobby tasks. You rarely gas weld, and I have tig to do that, but oxy-propane is hot enough and controlled enough for most other brazing, and general heating jobs. The nozzles for your torch are slightly different, they have little slits around the central hole. I have a Meco Midget torch, imported from the US which I find extremely controlable. For other heating/brazing jobs a Mapp gas (methyl acetyl propradiene) torch is great. it's the hottest compressed gas flame short of acetylene with its associated safety issues. One day I wiill organise a oxy-mapp gas rig for the hottest flame short of oxy acetylene, but I just haven't found the occasion where it's needed yet! Thanks for this great series of videos, they are well presented and methodical. I'm leaning a lot from them and I have been working in my own home workshp for 30 years now. When working on your own you tend to pick up bits here and there but these videos collate a lot of information and present it a easy to grasp manner. Please keep up the good work. Mike M, Nottingham
Im going to be getting rid of my Acetylene with Oxy,,, Going Propane oxy, I know you mentioned not needing Oxy/Prop, but it does have advantages. Also can you please mention the Japanese??? book author you have mentioned in the past. thanks for the great videos
Isn't Acetylene wonderful? A dear friend of mine based his masters thesis around the idea of using Acetylene as a refrigerant. There is a (very) narrow window in which it could theoretically work. And could even be efficient. It's the kind of thing John D Clark would approve of, and Derek Lowe would run screaming away from.
Man I've got two stitch machines. A pkakk a German straight stitch and a knock off of a 20U33 singer. If someone ever moved there Marnoch student next to the two of them and getting there Malignignimum die sulfate all over my white couch... 😑 they better learn how to turn that lathe into a time machine... 😆 😆 😆
Thanks for the video. I loved the rant about woodworkers and drill presses. My question is whether a bandsaw used in woodworking could double for metal working, perhaps with a different blade?
How would you rate that Sievert torch for blacksmith work? I hate dealing with an O/A rig, but need something for spot-heating thick steel when I'm riveting, peening, bending, etc. Looking at their website, it seems like all their torch tips are pretty big and I wonder if they aren't generating enough heat to quickly bring steel up to a yellow color. The O in the O/A rig makes things burn really hot really quick. That Sievert relies on a venturi burner necessarily means it will be slower and cooler, but by how much? Honestly, pretty much anything would be better than having to lug more tanks into town when they need refilled!
Hey, slightly of topic, but, seems like Ron Covell got his account hacked yesterday by some weird crypto etherium scam of some description. As I'm sure quite alot of the blondiehacks viewership is/was also subscribed to Ron, I thought it would be worth pointing out. And I guess, keep your eyes peeled for him starting up a new channel. Dont know if he will be able to keep hold of any of his old subscribers or be forced to start from scratch. But he seems to have conpletely disappeared from my subscriptions.
