Hurry up and do some more work. I need more episodes to watch. I'm loving watching this build. You wouldn't be as happy if you were doing that build here in Ballarat. It's all mud Uncle Knacks.
Scoots Guitar Mod Shop Hey Scoot, one of my best mates lives in the Rat and my brother is in Buninyong so l get the regular updates on how cold it's been down there. I did my apprenticeship at the School of Mines in Ballarat so l'm pretty familiar with the inclement conditions over winter :-) Hope you're rugged up mate and thanks for watching. Cheers
Hey Shane, good looking boy, must look like his Mom! Awe just bustin your chops! He does have a winners name though. Man the way you were zooming around there someone might think you knew what your doing . Hey , those squaring straps are really neat. Beats letting in a long piece of 2x4 on angle.nice job keep up the great work, I'm enjoying the heck out of this series.
billfromelma G'day Bill. Thanks for watching mate. Yeah he does take after his mother :-)……thankfully. Appreciate the comment mate. Cheers PS. You can't go wrong with a name like Bill.
Another great video Shane, it's coming along nicely. You will be done and moved in before you know it. Can't wait for the next video, keep up the good work.
Always great to say you built it as well, my be a lot of hard work but you know where everything is and how it was done. Which will make a future repairs that much easier. Great work, no matter what the kids says :)
woodturningjohn Spot on John! There is a great sense of satisfaction. Just have to make sure it doesn't fall down :-) Kids these days mate…..way to cheeky :-) Cheers
DIYForKnuckleheads I’m in uk and still in lockdown although it is easing here a bit . Your videos are the only thing that’s kept me sane 🤪 well almost , I have almost watched all of them now . My ears pricked up when you called him Billy because I’m a Bill myself . Thanks for helping me get through this horrible time , I live alone so it’s been like having a happy friend here with me . Look forward to all the new stuff . Best wishes .. Bill in uk
Coming together and starting to look like a house.. I'm interested to see how those metal strip braces work and adjust. I have never seen them before. good job there!
Michael Puffenbarger Thanks Michael. The tensioners are very simple to operate. Just tighten, or loosen them to whichever way you want the wall to go to make it plumb. Once you get that, you tension all four and then nail the brace off. Cheers
Just came across this video.. uncle knackers! I searched stud walls but didn’t expect a stud like ya self. 😀 Nah serious looked up building stud walls for the shed. Good video mate. Your young fella reminds me of my daughter who is 5. When I ask her did dad do a good job I get “nah!” Then a roar of laughter 😂😂
shame my son in law didn't watch this before doing his internal stud wall. He worked from both sides in to the doorway in the middle, ended up being 12mm too narrow for the door, and not even square! Had offered my help, with all your on line tips I took on board, but was told "I can manage ". Since then he's watched all your home build series!
Great work knackers, you're a quality carpenter keep up the great work. All the best hope there are no unexpected dilemmas.......well if there are you could always ask billy he seems like he knows whats going on lol.
Good progress Shane! Its interesting watching this since there are slightly different requirements/codes for how you build the walls versus what I have to do here in the States. Fantastic series.
Mark's Workshop Creations Thanks Mark! Yeah l thought there might be a few. Our climate is very different to yours which obviously alters things as well. Thanks for watching and for the comment. Cheers
Going well there Shane, I did wonder though why you needed a hammer when you were using the nailgun but you started to show the old faithful hammer halfway through the video. We can all see now that its starting to look like a house now, can`t wait for the next episode.. see you then mate.
I would greatly appreciate it if you could do a tutorial on how to use a nail gun. Both for framing but also for small woodworking jobs. Massive fan Shane. Cheers - Marty
Marty Daley As per usual Marty…thanks for your encouraging comments! I've thought about doing that. I'll put it on my to do list. Because l use them a lot l kind of consider it second nature. They probably are pretty confronting to those that haven't used one before. Thanks for the suggestion. Cheers mate
Good one uncle K! Once the walls are attached and squared up with each other, do you then remove the metal tensioners? Loving the series! Can't wait to come over for a cup of tea when it's all done! Looks like there's going to be a lovely guest room!! 😭😜. Cheers matey!
Andres Salas Thanks Andres!. No mate the metal braces and tensioners remain. On the internal walls you plane a tiny bit out of where the the braces are going which enables them to sit just below the surface so that they don't get in the way of any drywall. Yeah the guest room will be a beauty and hopefully there'll be plenty of guests to utilise it. Cheers mate :-)
Another awesome job uncle knackers. Also i've not noticed this before Shane, but you're a bit of a machine mate, you were working super fast, i haven't ever seen anybody ever move that quickly before, go you. Jokes aside, thanks for a ripper ep, cheers
For us novices would have been good to see how you are fastening the walls together at the sides, corners and top. As well as bolting to the slab. Good work though!
+Donald Rowe G'day Donald. I wanted to do an indepth series on the whole framing thing but time just didn't allow for it. Thanks for watching. Cheers. PS. If you have any questions just shoot me a message.
G'day Shane. Sure are making progress. Looking forward to the overhead shot of all the walls in, so we can get an idea of the structure. Are you going to explain/show us about those tensioner thingies you used on the outside wall. They don't look familiar to me. GREAT job and thank Gary for us. Wouldn't do for you to get a hernia!!
Sebastopolmark Thanks Mark. Stay tuned as l did an aerial view this afternoon !! The tensioners are very simple to use. Just tension the brace with the nuts in whichever way you want the wall to move to make it plumb. Once you do that, firm up the other nuts and nail the rest of the beach off. Hope that makes sense. Cheers
Shane awesome videos mate, watching from the UK here. Is that a brad nailer you use in your videos or something bigger ??? Also more pallet videos be awesome. Keep up the good work.
xIRATUMx Thanks xIRATUMx. I'm using a 3 inch framing gun in this video. I use a 16 gauge bradder in all my pallet videos. Appreciate the comment mate. Cheers :-)
Hey Shane, sorry for dragging up a comment on an older video, but as a chippie I wondered what your opinion was on metal house framing? The pre-manufactured systems go up real fast, even solo, and of course the manufacturers claim they do everything bar make the cuppa as they're going up, but I wondered about the down sides? Thermal performance is one thing i've found, but I haven't had experience with a whole house in steel.
G'day Pete, apart from the thermal performance, l don't have a problem with it....termite proof...everything is a s straight as a dye and it does go up pretty quick. The down side as l see it, is that attaching things like door jambs etc may not be as straight forward and adjusting the frames to suit could be a little tricky....especially in the case of renovating when you need to match up to an existing building. Hope that makes sense. Cheers 👍😁
@@diyforknuckleheads Thanks mate, yes that makes great sense, I appreciate your input. I've only ever done renos (ironically currently a termite total) with conventional framing, but am tossing up various ideas for a possible OB if we move interstate. I've only ever used metal house framing for a powder coating oven (around 200C). It was great to work with but the project wasn't a success due to the thermal bridging. An extreme case, but it did make me aware of that possibly being an issue in its normal intended application. PS I vote you sell your house so you do another OB RU-vid project ;)
Like you Pete, l've only ever built one house from metal...I didn't find it to bad to work with but l am a bit old school and enjoy the process of timber framing.....good luck with your possible upcoming OB Project 👊👊 Hahahahahahhaha....that would make the missus happy 😂
@shaneconlan1 Lookin' good, Knackers! Loving the 10' ceilings, hope there's going to be some 9" colonial skirting to go with it haha. I'm a sucker for the old federation style second fixes. Eagerly awaiting the next episode!
Chris Versteegen Thanks Chris. Yeah the 10 footers should be good. Cost a bit extra but l think it'll be worth it. Don't mind the Federation style either but there isn't to much of it around here. Might look a little out of place. Cheers mate
How would join lengths of timbers to make the top and bottom run if one didn't have the full uncut lengths? This is important to me as my timber lengths for my shed are not long enough and I am looking to affix them with bracing straps but I am not sure if this is the safest or best method. Thanks.
Anthony, l'm assuming you are talking about the top plate and the bottom plate?? The bottom plates jut butt together and you just need to bolt them down to the concrete slab. With the top plate, butt the two lengths together making sure that the ends on both pieces has a stud directly underneath. Stand both frames up and nail the studs together. On the very top of the wall, use a 'Gang Nail Plate' and hammer in place. Another method is to poison the studs about 500mm in from each end......stand the walls up and then nail in a cleat underneath the top plate that runs from one stud to the next.......hope that all makes sense.....Cheers 👍😁🇦🇺
Gday mate, another random quesiton: do you crown your studs for external walls out or in regarding your final finish (aka wearther boards) whats the best thing to do regarding that?
Mate, most external walls have braces fitted so have the crowns on the inside. That way if you need to plane a crown to get that stud straight you won't have a metal brace to contend with....hope that makes sense. Cheers 👍😁🇦🇺
Hi, just wondering what length of nail you used to frame all this? wish you could of made the indepth series on the framing because that is something i'd actually be happy to pay for video is much easier to understand than books
G'day Scott, again sorry for the silly question, if you're cladding the exterior wall would it be better to 'crown the wall studs' with the crown facing inward to the finished wall? Still working on my renos, thanks in advance.
Hhhmmmm....Shane...😉.......Mate, if there is a brace on the wall you are making, have the crown on the other side. That way, when you go to straighten the walls with your planer, you won't have a brace to contend with......hope that makes sense 👍👍
Hahahhahahha...gotta love the old Bennymeister Brett😂😂....and yes mate, l am showing my age as are you by the comment 😂😂 Have a good one and thanks for watching 👍👍😁
+RJJFavorites G'day mate. The crown referes to the way that the timber is bent. Not sideways bent but up and down bent. Think of a banana or a bridge. When the bow is facing up it means that the crown is facing up. When the bow is facing down, it means that the crown is facing down. Just make sure that all the studs on the one wall are all either crowning up or crowning down. Hope that makes sense. Cheers
G'day mate, what you do is run your eye down the side of the stud. That way you can see if the stud has a bow in it. If the bow is curved up (like the shape of a bridge), the crown is up. If the stud is curved down (like a bridge upside down), the crown is facing down. Hope that makes sense. Cheers :-)
Thanks mate. The nails l use are 3 inch framing nails that match the gun that l;'m using. If nailing boy hand just use a 3 inch bullet head nail. Good luck 👍😁🇦🇺
Hey Shane, top job mate. Just a quick question. When would you use a double top plate? I've checked a few of these vids out of others making stud walls and the greater majority use a double top plate. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Chris ZUREK G'day Chris. You use a double top plate on all external walls. You don't use a double plate on your internal walls. In essence, the external walls are one plate higher than your internal walls. Hope that helps. Cheers
Hey! Thanks alot for posting this vid. It really ignites a passion to get in and start working. I've just office/estimating experience and i hope i'll be able to help a builder in that sense but definitely want to get the backbone of Onsite Practical Work under my belt. - You say the wall require metal bracing rather than ply. I thought this was a "choose whatever you want" option. And with Ply actually being stronger bracing (9kn from memory?) compare to (4kn for metal brace? .. oh gosh it's bit a little while). Why is this ? -- I'm sure the metal strapbracing would make it alot easier to, ply requiring alot more nail fixing ? - I see the wallframes are treated, this being for termites? , why can't just use this orange anti termite like flashing you put under the bottom plate to concrete? - and potentially save money with not needed frames treated or this doesn't work as well ? (am i answering my own question here..) Haha that nope from the kid. (undercover site supervisor there! hehe)
G'day Patrick. Glad you liked the vid mate 👍 The reason for the metal bracing is that because the walls were clad in weatherboards, if l went with the ply l would have to sheet the entire wall with the ply. The termite treated timber is just another layer of termite protection which is really important up here on the Mid aNorth Coast of NSW as the all year round moist conditions are termite heaven! Have a good one mate and l hope you can stick around for more. Cheers 👍🇦🇺😁
It's starting to look more like a house now with actual walls, still a way to go though before the wife starts to pick the colours for the dreaded decorating ha ha. Take Care, Barry, Baz, Bazza ha ha from England.
Barry Roberts Thanks Baz…don't remind me mate. As soon as l hear the phrase 'lets go pick the colour for the tiles' l am immediately overcome with white noise LOL…cheers
+mike thompson Hi Mike. Generally half way up your wall if you have a standard 2.4 metre (8 feet) ceiling height. If your ceiling height goes up to 2.7 metres (9 feet) then put in two noggins but space them evenly. Cheers
Stig øvreberg That greenish blueish colour is bifenthrin, a synthetic pyrethroid, in a water base with a blue dye for easy identification. It's to protect against termites and borers.
Hahahahaha...the big man also makes an appearance in one of my videos!..Check him Out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lzKhKtCyHjY.html
G'day mate....in Australia the studs are 450mm from the centre of one stud to the centre of the next stud....in other words, from the back of one stud to the front of the next stud is 450mm. In other parts of the world like America, it's 16" from the back of one stud to the front of the next stud. Hope that makes sense 👍😁🇦🇺
@@diyforknuckleheads Yep I'm in Australia and you lost me at inches! Haha! Thanks for the reply and keep up the handy videos! I've been watching your videos to do my own DIY work!!
😂....a mans gotta keep busy Jafeth 😂 If you're interested, you might want to check out my Jurgen Klopp video😂...here's the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--CdnjsK-edI.html Thanks for watching 👍😁🇦🇺
