Fast comment to tell you that I'm really happy that RU-vid works well for you, used to watch you a lot and talked with you a bit back then on Discord for some devices, you had a small community, now seeing that you surpassed 250k is impressive. I'll def buy your book about these chinese devices once you will release it (yes you will!).
Oh man a book on some of these devices would be amazing. I'm shocked at some of the devices coming out of china, the ktr1 being developed by one guy is astounding, same with those limited lg wing devices!
The rubber membrane is responsible for all the button travel. What I did to my rubber membrane, is not for everyone. I made tiny little sewing needle sized holes in the parts of the membrane that changes shape/deforms when a button is pressed on them. This makes them less stiff, and a little more mushy depending on how many holes you make (air pressure is also a factor). It doesn't change travel but for me does make them feel better and more importantly especially for platformers and fighters: more responsive. Hope this helps anyone!
@@marcushopkins2290 I dont think the light would be isolated to specific places... i think he light will pretty much seep through the whole device, wont look cool.
@@kookdope I understand, but they should indicate that on their website. Also, specs are all over the place. I thought 6GB of ram was going to be standard on the low end model, but now it's back to 4GB. They're not very consistent.
Be careful when opening your device. When I slid my pick along the shell to open my Odin Pro, it caused minor abrasions to the shell giving it a slightly uneven looking seal when putting it back together. Take your time and be gentle. 👌
I would recommend going across the top then down the sides, this I feel, is the majority of the harder clips being easily pried apart without putting too much pressure on the plastic or the pick of choice. But yes, taking your time is key. When he does it in the video he had me wincing.
I did the gulikit mod, I enjoy them so far. What I did different from Russ, was I removed the rubber off the thumb caps of the gulikit sticks, because I honestly hate the feel. It took some work, but I used PSVita cap covers and it works awesomely.
@@drearmouse9510 The magnet that is in the thumbstick was unaffected by this mod. All I did was make a X with a razer over the Rubber thumb grips, carefully peal them off, and replace them with some PSVita Thumb caps. I did calibrate the sticks as Russ did.
@@Genguts Oh, so you had to use Vita caps or it wldnt work right? Hmm.. Ill rewatch the vid again real quick... Or like.. if I got the gullikit, cld one just plop em in then calibrate like in the vid? Bc reddit made it sound sooo confusing. Bought some switch stick for now, so pretty curious if i shpd return em. >< (How's the Odin doin, btw?)
@@drearmouse9510 You do not need to remove the rubber off of the thumb sticks. I just hated the feeling of them. Personal Preference. If you follow Russ's guide here, you will be off to the races.
@@Genguts Oh hell yeah. Thanks. Your Odin holdin up pretty well, btw? Got the drift after like 2 weeks & it got me a lil paranoid. Edit: just fixed it! Whew.. gettin that shell off was nervewracking as all hell. Dx
Thanks for the helpful guide. Just installed the sticks in my white odin pro. Looks really like the original sticks but feels really better, more solid resistance. Still on the stock face buttons which i like a lot actually. 😊
Recieved my Gulikit magnetic Hall-sensor analog sticks today from Ali Express. Only took 1½ week to Sweden without any custom fee! And, yeah, they're an upgrade for sure for my AYN Odin Base! I immediately felt that the new sticks were larger, much less flimsy, stuck out a bit more which gave more control. And as Russ said, the sticks are a bit slick as they're new, but I expect them to get more grippy soon. Very happy!
I received my face buttons from Sakura Retromodding that I ordered from Etsy yesterday and installed them today. I went with the PSX buttons. What a difference! The travel and feel is much better and they look so sleek and nice! I really like the glossiness too! So worth it! And I can confirm the Gulikit magnetic Hall analog sticks still are great and got grippy and very comfortable after playing for a few hours!
Picked up a transparent Odin lite when you made your post about ayn shipping sooner. Received today. Took about 8 days, including a weekend, to make it to South FL. Super fast. Thanks man.
the calibration method you showing wont save, it will back to original after u restarted the odin, to save your calibration, you will still need to go into the calibration app, do all the calibration, i repeat: ALL include L2 R2 left analog stick right analog stick, after finish, it will pop out a finish button(which equal to save button), once u press that, only the calibrated will be save, and the setting wont revert back to original after u restarted the odin
I always love it that you show how to open and mod the devices. I've never had a problem working with PCs, but when it comes to my retro handhelds, I still don't want to mess with them in fear of destroying anything D:
It's great that there are better options for stick drift, and if any of my devices ever have issues, I'll know were to turn. Over the years, I've only had one controller show any signs of drifting, and that is my 360 controller. When it starts to drift, if I move it around a few times it actually stops, and that rarely happens, so never got that bad were I needed other options. Now my sons Switch, I've lost track of how many times we've sent those in, but Nintendo covers the cost, so all good there as well. But if they ever stop that support, we'll for sure switch over to sticks like these.
i had no idea that other calibrater even existed lol, thanks! did the stick mod almost immediately after getting mine in October-ish, did the buttons mod (coloured ps) in January.
Russ, I believe this video needs an update. Many Odin users including myself cannot get the Gulikit sticks to work with the Odin. There is magnet interference with the Left Trigger hall sensor, and even with using an external magnet workaound that someone figured out, my Gulikit switches won't won't calibrate after I restarted the system. Some users are reporting good success and no interference with the hall sticks sold by Retroid for the Pocket 3/3+.
Thank you for posting this comment. I'm installed my hall sticks three times and couldn't figure out why the left stick was moving down when I pressed L2. So the Gulikit switches are incompatible then??
@@mattdurette497 It would appear that something is different about the more recent GuliKit sticks that folks are receiving than ones from a year ago that people had no problems with. I received my Retroid sticks last week, but I haven't had time to install them yet. But yes, the GuliKit sticks as of now are a no-go for the Odin.
I've tried every technique I could fine to calibrate the Gulikit hall sensor Joysticks on my Odin pro and resolve this L2 interference issue. In the end, I settled for minor magnetic interference between the L2 trigger and the left stick. The interference was reduced by spamming the L2 trigger during the left stick calibration. Again it's not 100% resolved, but at least Lara Croft is no longer walking backwards while aiming her bow. I considered re-installing the original Odin joysticks but they are so small, I'll live with this. I expect to have to recalibrate the left stick regularly. Not the most satisfying resolution but it seems like my best option.
@@mattdurette497 During my attempts to get the L stick calibrated with the GuliKit set, I used the magnet workaround that you may be able to find by searching reddit. Out of many attempts I was able to get it to where the left stick would only move slightly when pressing the left trigger. Then by increasing the dead zone you basically would have a thumbstick that actually worked. The problem for me was that I kept trying to get perfection after that, and was never able to get it calibrated to the same amount of low interference, and I gave up. I'll follow up with you once I have installed and tested the Retroid thumbsticks. I'm swamped now so I don't know when that will be.
I like how easy it is to replace parts on the Odin. I don't mind the original Odin joysticks but then again I never tried Hall joysticks. I would be tempted to do the upgrade if I was not already upgrading to a GPD Win 4. On that one I may do the upgrade but from what I have seen it is definitely not as easy as with the Odin. The only modification I did on my Odin is removing the Odin logo on the bottom left. I used paint thinner and it removed the white ink without melting the plastic. It looks so much better.
@@RetroGameCorps I tested my paint thinner on a small area between the USB and headphone jack first to make sure it would not damage the plastic. Once I knew it was fine I did it on the logo. I would have probably kept the logo if it had been just a bit more discreet. Maybe dark grey logo on the black shell or light grey on the white shell would have looked better. Or just put it on the back of the device.
You should check to make sure the Gulikit sticks don't have a "jump". The first shipment, including mine, would, if pressed in one direction, make a small click and jump from about 25% tilted to suddenly 100% tilted. The seller has promised to replace them, so kudos to them. But you should check.
Thanks for this, my left joystick had drift after letting my 5 year old use it and calibration wouldn't work. So I used your guide to replace the sticks.
Thanks for the review and guide Russ. What worries me slightly is I don't suffer from drift, rather the joysticks wear, become loose and lose precision. My original left stick lasted 6 months or so and after going through 3 cheap replacements to find a good one this is starting to get a bit loose after 4 months. I'm not sure the Gulikit ones will actually last much longer and the cost for regular replacement could get silly. That said I'm sure I'll give them a go when I next need some. Be nice if someone offered some options for the removeable caps, probably only a matter of time.
I think I might be your biggest fan in China. Every time I watch your video and the intro music kicks in my wife one the other end of our couch would say, "this guy again?"
thanks for the help this video help a lot i have just got my gulikit analog sticks and replacing my old ones in my odin pro. i am thing about geting a another set of gulikit sticks for my retroid pocket 3+ aswell
Profound sadness! I just received a set of Gulikit hall sensor sticks for my Odin Lite only to find the seat for the left stick is off centre in the frame (The mounts within the odin itself). Which meant my left thumstick would hit the wall of the case at 75% of horizontal axis toward the left. I then spent nearly 3 hours fiddling with calibration, deadzone, sensitivity, etc. No combination I found could compensate enough without screwing up something else with the stick experience... *sigh*. I then tried 3 other sticks (I ordered 4, with the intention also upgrading a set of joycons), all the exact same issue (which is how I discovered the issue was defect in the internal construction of my odin) I'm not confident enough in my modding to try to move the mounts to fix it... I ended up putting the original left stick back in and keeping the hall sensor on the right, still an improvement, but, hoo boy, that was an afternoon of emotions, lol. Edit: I also found the left trigger interfered with hall sensor stick slightly, causing the vertical access to move to 0.2 (-20%) (it only happened with the left trigger, I assume the trigger must be using a magnet which interfered with the hall sensor). Nothing I could do to fix that, short of switching back to the old stick.
Ah, wish I would have had your guide for correctly calibrating the sticks before sending them back again. The Gulikit ones have superior haptics compared to the originals. But even if I had managed to successfully get them to work properly, in the end, I'm still not a fan of the Gulisticks' square movement pattern, which feels a little awkward with the type of games I tend to play.
After installation of the hall joy sticks, when I press the L2 button the left stick registers a move downward. I've tried reinstalling the sticks three times, and I've swapped them left to right. Any ideas? I've confirmed through game testing it is not just a calibration app problem.
Just bought Odin yesterday, because of this video. Hall-sensor analog sticks are a must after I've started using them. Still waiting for some mod option for Mechanical or Dome button on the face buttons tho. Please share if you ever find an option to it.
I know this is an old video but the odin lite doesnt appear to have the option to do this sort of calibration on the joystick (deleteing old calibration and setting up new calibration) can anyone help?
Just got my odin lite 2 days ago and my left stick is clicking when i rotate it -. - so i'll have to upgrade sooner then i thougth xD also trying to find taller caps for the gulikit sticks so there is more clearence but no luck there so far..
The ABXY buttons seem to have specific "notches" that protrude from the sides. Can we swap the placement of A & B and X & Y if we want to retain the Nintendo Switch YXBA orientation instead of the xbox XYAB orientation?
Hey Russ, I'm having a lot of the trouble calibrating my sticks on my odin. I've tried calibrating them multiple times but they never want to to Center.
It looks like the new buttons couldn't travel any less without depressing beneath the shell. I've been trying to determine whether the pad is swappable with any other controllers..
Hope I win some of those buttons! Thanks for the awesome video Russ. Do you know what kind of cap replacements are available for those sticks? Not a big fan of the switch style caps
I've found the AYN Odin pro buttons to be a little too clicky for my tastes due to the rubber membrane they use, I wish someone would come out with a replacement rubber membrane that allows you to change this quality
I used the same hall sticks, and I can not get the calibration to keep after a reboot. I can not use the odin calibration tool they just won't calibrate, just like in your video. I can, however, get everything to work by deleting the calibration in the tool you recommended until i reboot though, he'll it won't even keep the xbox button layout after a reboot. Any ideas? P.s. everything worked fine before the stick swap.
Love your vids. If/when you cover the Razer Edge please don't gloss over how Razer did a bait and switch when it comes to the ram on the wifi model and the actual chip. Neither is what they were initially claimed to be and Razer has had to offer gift cards and discounts to try and make up for it since there's been backlash.
Razer from my experience is very scummy with their business practices and even worse when it comes to customer support I refuse to buy their products anymore
i find it funny that he keeps saying the joycon sticks are larger than the ones in there originally. it's like a girl saying her Asian boyfriend has a larger eggplant than her previous boyfriend.
My 8BitDo Ultimate controller has hal sensing sticks. The difference between them and analog sticks are night and day. They are so much smoother to use, and are dead on accurate
@@Crixus0983 exactly what i did is what rush does on this video, i did it like 2-3 times and tried some games. for some reason it DIDNT AFFECT the games at all. After finished some testing i left it like this and before i went to sleep i tried to playa bit and poof......didnt happen again. weird
I did the hall sensor sticks upgrade to my Odin, but when I try to calibrate the left joystick if I touch the left trigger it interferes with the calibration.
Do you think it would be as popular if everything was upgraded and the device cost more? Maybe they, and steam deck also, can release a more premium upgraded version along side the basic one
@@samgoff5289 I’m not sure to be honest, the space is slowly but surely starting to get saturated. I think AYN would be smarter to wait until they can get the components for less and sell a revised model that is either incrementally improved or cheaper or both
The rubber membrain on the Odin is horrible, it's a hard rubber, making that loud clicking sound, the Sakura replacements are great, but they make more sound with the stock membrain. I took the rubber membrain from my RG351P, cut off the excess rubber, and placed it carefully inside my Odin. And now my buttons are dead quiet. I didn't cut it precisely because it was purely an experiment to see if it would work. It works, but I had to loosen the screws to get all the face buttons to function perfectly. I'd love to be able to replace it with an original Odin rubber membrain that is soft and doesn't provide a horrid clicking sound, but oh well, beggars can't be choosers.
I wonder if Gameboy membrane would fit. I have a whole bunch of them from installing new shells. The feel of the Odin buttons is ok to me but the sound does bother me.
Can't hurt to try, just remember, the stick ribbon cable is flimsy and very easily broken. I lost a stick when doing this, I now have a hall effect stick as a replacement, because the cheap ones wouldn't fit through the hole. Also, a heads up, for some reason, if there is no right stick installed, the touch screen doesn't function correctly. Baffled me for the longest time.
@@yearls I may try it this weekend. I can at least verify that the buttons are roughly the same distance as the Gameboy ones without opening the device just by placing the membrane on top of the buttons.
@@yearls I just swapped my rubber membrane. I think the one I used is a Gameboy Pocket D-pad membrane. Fit perfectly and even the 2 little holes to hold it in place are in the right spots. The noise has gone down a little bit but the buttons feel so much better to press with a softer rubber pad.
Im thinking of buying an ayn odin lite but i have a question: when using ps5 remote play is there a button that works as the touch pad of ps controllers?
Well, sort of -- when using PSPlay (which is the remote play app I recommend), the top half of the screen itself will act as the touchpad, it's in a similar position as it would be if you were holding a controller.
It's interference from the magnet in the Left Trigger hall switch. There are Reddit posts and a couple of RU-vid videos showing how to get through the calibration by using another magnet. I can't get my new GuliKit sticks to work with my Odin. I got close with the magnet trick in calibration, but the next time I turned on the Odin, the sticks wouldn't calibrate again. They go to an extreme direction and therefore won't calibrate. I think the newer batches of the sticks will not work with the Odin. Russ probably needs to update this video to reflect that.
Some emulation cores are specific with widescreen. For Genesis/Megadrive for example you have "Genesis Plus GX" but there is a "Genesis Plus GX Wide" version as well. For SNES I think Bsnes HD Beta has widescreen settings in the options. It's not perfect. For many games, sprites won't load outside of the normal screen area so you can see them pop in and backgrounds that scroll will have garbage data on the right. Some games work better than others.
If i replace the buttons to playstation design, could i do that in the settings too? Because i dont want see the xbox design in game bc than i dont know which button i should press lol Sry for my bad english💀
