Danny, you're a handsome guy but I'd prefer a closeup of your handiwork vs the room shot. "It may be simple" but I still have no idea what you've done because the board is so distant. later the closeup has your hand is in focus but not the board. grrrrr.
I tried to give a more normal view to explain the circuit and then zoom in for some of the assembly. And I think my camera guy can tell me of a setting that will keep the work in focus better for future videos. I'm still a bit new to this, but I'll get better.
Hi. A high resolution picture of the crossover, front and back, fully assembled, with all parts visual, so it’s easy to mount them in the correct direction.!! Wired/twisted together would be nice and easy for all, even you Danny. Not so many mail about the mounting. Love your work and professional.
@@dannyrichie9743 if you could give it another try, that would be much appreciated. At this point, having watched the video several times, I am totally lost. All the key moments are of the back of your hand, a blurred vision, off camera completely, or shown with insufficient explanation of what's going on. I hope your kids instructions provide more than a schematic. I really want to try this, but right now, I am flying blind.
Danny, a friend of mine who knows a lot more about building circuits than I do had the following comments. Could you please comment and confirm whether I need to address any of his comments. (1) Resistors get hot...so not a good idea to have them next to to the caps. Recommend you keep them off the board for airflow and away from other components and not have them held by zip ties, he is thinking they may generate 5W or so (2) To use sandpaper and strip the ends of the inductor till the copper shows. Thanks. (BTW, hearing you comment about how the bypass caps take things to the next level. I did go ahead and order them. Being a novice took me a while to find them on the web at sonic craft and order them. Recommend you adding them as another orderable option on your site.) Given all the hours I have put into building the kit I am perfectly willing to spend another eighty dollars on the cap if that will take things to another level.) My son and I can't wait to complete the project,
Thats what it's all about my fellow Audio nut, enjoying the hobby and trying new things.. just because and bringing your whippersnapper into the wonderfull world of high-fidelity 🎼 🎵 🔉 🔉🤤 🔉🔉🎶👍
Love your work! Tiny tip: set up a monitor screen while you're shooting video (where you can see it, but the camera can't). That will allow you to see what's in the camera's field of vision. That way you'll know if things you're talking about are out of the picture. Thanks again for helping us all along.
Thank you for your comment. I found this video so frustrating to watch. I would love to try to build the encores but after watching this video, I am more lost than ever. This video may be entertaining to people who already know the majority of what is going to be done. But for a beginner, it tells us nothing. All of the crucial moments are out of focus or not in the camera lens at all. And his explanations are mostly about him trying to convince us that it is so easy. That doesn't help.
Hey Danny. Thanks for the vid. I'm planning on ordering this kit next month, with the cap and resistor upgrade. And after watching this vid, the miflex caps. The miflex caps aren't on the website, should I call or source it out in my own? What were the values of those miflex caps?
@@johnsweda2999 LOL, well, ok, I thought that's what the fast forward button was for. At least a few close-ups of the completed crossover would be nice. Why isn't it a good idea to twist the wires? Are you saying Danny, and anyone who follows this video is doing it wrong?
Soo the speaker wires feeding the speaker should be specific 24 interwoven cables (for interference) going into 50 dollar (or so, up charge) special barrel connector for the best signal path. Then when it comes to the crossover, just twist that crap together. Haha I love it. By the way, I made the mistake to disassembling, what I thought was a good set of Boston acoustics, they are now going in the trash, I can’t unsee it now. That stuff looks like trash compared to these components
If you spent more money and bought an audiophile macbook you would have realised straight away that the lower frequency of said rumble can only be reproduced via the lower port of the body.
The fact that this knowledge is free is just amazing. Take a moment to consider how exposure to Danny’s knowledge 30 years ago was sequestered to engineering school and obscure books that weren’t available at most libraries. Thank you, Danny… you’re the spearhead of an artisan audio revolution that’s likely just getting started. 👍👍
Danny, what’s your general rule for bypass cap values? Is there a mathematical way you personally figure out the bypass cap’s value that it’s in parallel with, or does it depend on how much you wanna smooth out the highs?
Anytime you bundle caps of dissimilar values there is a difference in the charge and discharge rates and that difference can cause a phase shift or time smear. But with cap values of .1uF or less that phase shift is at or above 20kHz. So it is not a problem. So you get the benefit of the faster discharging small cap without the penalties. Going smaller than .1uF gives up a little of the flavor or sound of the by-pass cap. So I tend to like the .1's.
Any chance of another take at this video with somebody doing the camera work? Some of the crucial parts are not visible. I'm more confused now than before I saw the video.
One thing doesn’t show in the video is just how much muscle memory, dexterity, and coordination this assembly takes. I do small wires for thirty years and I’m kinda chuckling...you are soooo.understating the challenge it is for some!
The main aspect that prevents me from doing the DYI is the soldering. My experiences in the past with soldering has been it's way harder than it looks to do it well, and I always ended up very frustrated.
Danny you are a MASTER and being a novice I see the mistakes that I made on my first crossovers I used hot glue to mount all of the components instead of wire ties . would foil inductors also be a big improvement along with the milex caps? what kind of cost are we looking at hotrod the crossover as you have done? Thank You for doing this for all of us dummies
I'm a complete amateur when it comes to speaker crossovers, but why would you use monster sized, high voltage capacitors? Most home speakers don't use 400-600 volts. One of my speakers blew and I'm trying to find replacement parts. (It's a Realistic Mach One)
Danny, I'm a totally non-tech person. Unless I can have a step by step close-up photos sequence as to how to assemble the crossover, I won't do it. Is it possible to get such a 'dummies' instruction?
I've lost my wiring diagram. Which resisters goes to which part of the circuit? There's a 3, 6 and 12 ohm in the kit, but you don't mention which specific one goes where in the video. Any help would be appreciated.
I've built a few sets of speakers over the years, and I always learned to plop the crossover components down into silicone. It lasts forever, and reduces mechanical shifting and rattling noise from the components. Can you weigh in on this? I also assembled high-end amps for a niche manufacturer, and they had me put everything down into silicone for the same reason.
Do you put any protection on any of your crossovers? PTCs, Fuses, breakers or heaters, lol? I see many larger speakers have protection like PTCs on mid and tweeter. Is it a bad idea to eliminate them from the design in a crossover rebuild?
Ok I learned a bit from this one. I still don’t understand the signal flow, is there another more in depth signal flow explanation? Because there’s two drivers does that mean there’s two main wires going to the positive input terminal?
I also don’t understand why some components are bundled together and their wires twisted together? Don’t that have to be in series to work? So confusing
You spent more time to explain how to tie up the component to the board, and solder than how to put together the crossover component. Not a very good pedagogue and not very reassuring to buy your products using your hand drawn photocopy of the circuit and a video from 5 feet away... I just checked your website and there isn't more information on how to put together these components. Your video explains better how to solder and connect wires.
As you are twisting the wires together then you only need a small dab of solder on each twist. Any more is a waste of time and solder. The physical strength and electrical conduction is not actually improved by saturation soldering all along the wire from one component to the next.
Danny, when you said "if DIY is for you" I said I'm in. One problem I don't know how to read electronic diagrams and identify elements. This video makes life beautiful! Thank you. Hey, thanks for answering my call.
Danny, it would be awesome to see a close up tutorial on how you combine multiple crossover components to get those nice tight connections. I was a little concerned about pulling the capacitor and resistor wires too tight and damaging them somehow when I made my crossover. Also, once 2 or 3 components are connected together and that group is fairly thick, how to add another for ground (or whatever).
Hey Danny....yet another awesome video from you as always. I know you have put together the crossover components hundreds of times and you can do this with your eyes closed :) ...but for some of us out here who are new to this still struggle to "join the dots" properly. It would have been nice if you can properly show the circuit schematic which clearly shows the connections marked. (What you are currently showing in the video seems a little hard to figure out and provides just a vague schematic view...would've been great if you showed that in full frame so that people can pause and view) Also I see that you have added some new components (KPCU capacitors?) in addition to the standard X-LS Encore kit offered and that seems to have added the confusion a bit. Can you please provide a modified circuit diagram covering those parts as well,...maybe as a PDF to download?
I've held up a circuit diagram several times in the video. It just didn't have the values listed. To get the values (intellectual property) you have to buy the kit.
I would not be able to build the crossovers from the directions on the sheet of paper. I would need a photo or photos of the assembled board to make sure I had the parts in the right places.
Did you ever complete the kit? Did the instructions provided explain anything? This video told me nothing since it was all out of focus and off camera in the crucial moments. Can a beginner build this without seeing a video?
You need to show the hole process for us who don't no what your doing to make this a how to video and the Camara needs to be on what your work so we can see what your doing ,assume we no nothing and show us everything this would help a lot
Audiophile 4% silver solder fast flow lead-free rosin core 1mm thick 1 metre roll £1,44 .most soldiers 60/40 is 3% silver or less get Yourself a minimum of 60w soldering iron
So many things I Have questions about like if you did use Mr Rawlings boards, your build just blocked the mounting holes for the board completely. I just finished mine and yes, don’t use peters holes. Move them somewhere more sensible for your parts category.
It is interesting what you said about positioning the inductors in 90 º oriented planes in order to reduce magnetic fields interference. Nice tip. I have been thinking that it will be totally avoided in you split the board in two . The one located on top of the enclosure will have only components for high frequency crossover, and the one at the bottom the components for low frequencies for the woofer. What do you think about it? By the way, do you know same online calculator for inductors? Thanks
So long as they are turned in different directions then they're fine. I don't understand your question about calculating inductors. I don't know anything regarding them that you'd want to calculate.
So far I liked your videos. But this one is a little different! You more or less made it for someone which knows already what he's doing. If you show us what you did, do a close up with the camera! I hardly can see the wires, how should I see how tight or long you tied those wires together? Wouldn't soldering make a better connection?As you see I was wondering, because you did not mention that you will later solder them up. By bypassing the sonicaps you mean what? If you bypass them, why do you put them in in the first place? I wished you had put as much time in filming the twisting of the wire as you put into zip tying it. What do you mean by running the resistores in the same direction?
The wiring is added in the next video. The best connection is made just as you see it in the video. Solder is never used to make a connection. Solder holds the connection together and seals the Copper. By-passing means using a small value cap across the larger one. It does not and cannot omit the larger cap. Running parts in the same direction is just as it sounds. Run them in the direction of the print and be consistent.
When I get ready for my kit, I would LOVE a photo of a completed network on PR’s board with labels pointing to the components. Labels would be great to include indicators on where to connect drivers’ leads and leads from tube connectors.
@@dannyrichie9743 do you know of a video that clearly explains how to translate a schematic into a real world assembly situation like your speakers? I have searched for days and every video assumes that you already know this stuff and the video is just an exercise in beginner discouragement.
Just curious, why not attach the board the crossover is on to the speaker board prior to putting the speaker together to avoid reaching thru the driver hole?
Great video, and thanks again for taking time to video this process for those of us that are soldering/crossover build nubies. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to keeping the sub and tweeter crossovers separate or combined? Also can the upgrade to the upgrade be ordered from your site as I already ordered the upgraded sonic caps and mills resistors?
AW! This sort of twisting wires together is big BS for me! I have a hard time doing this with my numb Hand... That´s awful. It´s bad to lose capabilities ... especially when you're a creative guy! But, a man must do what a man must do! Despite my (due to spine damage) numb Hands, I do such stuff! And, man, Soldering tiny parts is really a pain in the A**! 🤣 For example, solder a wire to the tweeter: Hands Numb: check! Hands shivering: check! Sweating green Apples not to burn up the connection point of the tweeter: check!
After listened to the Desktop mini crossover video where Danny says : Do not place a screw in the center of the air core inductor, I went and removed the one i had placed in my X-SLS… WOW… WOW… WOW… the mid range opened up, guitar, vocals, sound stage. Listen to the other video.
Does anyone know why "hot glueing" the components on the board wouldn't be preferred/possible? I am building one of Danny's crossovers soon for my speakers, and was thinking I should hot glue the components to secure, and also to prevent vibration and buzzing. Is this not a good idea?
I got a set of Def Tech bp-7004's I believe the x-over is bad . the tweeters dont work so i took them out and tested them on my 7001's and they worked fine. What's your thought on it?
I wonder if I sent you the drivers I want to use in a two way speaker .... could you knock me up a crossover diagram .. I think they call it a simulation ? ? obviously I would pay you ...
Hey, I have a suggestion for a tool to cinch up those zip ties. It's a bike tool that works great on what you're doing. The Park Fourth Hand cable stretcher ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--FhrDcQwOzc.html ). Works like a charm.
Whats your honest take here, do you think the encore (fully upgraded crossovers, and are incredible) would give the kef ls50 meta a good fight? If so, in so maybe all around or maybe in certain areas more than others etc., would love to know your take, and ill let you know mine, i have both, and getting ready to do a critical listening shootout and will let you know my verdict, but id like to know your prediction before i put them head to head, keep up the good work, your a mastermind.
Not over-teweetered, but lots of resistors in the tweeter path... So I guess it would be really to bright, singing way over the woofer without them. 2 resistors in series, 1 in parallel... wahou ! It has to stay quiet by a lot. Just at first sight, not a tech guy at all.
our bro Danny is working on a gray (updated) mullet to match his videos of the past... dubbed the "mullet 19".. love you Danny!!! keep up the amazing work..
Watch that dropped solder blobs on those bare legs....my boyhood soldering in summer short pajamas left a few scars. Use a goldie locks brass pot scraper to clean iron tip. Great detail on this site
I love how easy you make it look and the layout. Flush cutter for zip ties at WallY World For $6.97 best thing ever for zip ties. No more nics or cuts from bumping into it.
silly question, any reason this can't be a ckt board vs just free style? it could be a option maybe even folks can order direct from a ckt board company or you ? might help make it easier to assemble for many dunno
Bro you have garbage website! 3x I went to order something and went to ebay to buy and bought. 1st thing you have to do is pull off both hands who made this web site. 2nd make sure you put designer in trash can ) 3rd fix that web site and all your hard work will be paid big time!
Man, I haven't seen point to point soldering like that since the old tube radio days. I'd make a circuit board myself and mount all the components to the board and solder to leads and traces.
Hey Danny, I'm getting ready to do my AV/3s and wanted to get an idea of how I should proceed with the XO. Love all your videos as they are helpful. I kind of would like to show off the XO, perhaps put into a separate chamber. Would it be ok to hide the wires behind the board and show off the components on the front of the XO board? Or should I not do that? Also cable length from XO to speakers, if a bit longer is that a problem?
Love watching a master tech doing there craft. To learn skills and what to do and not do and not to do. Love your channel cant wait to build my own some day
I don't know anything about electronics, but watching the boards being built was therapeutic in a way. Very relaxing, indeed. I'll continue to watch the rest of the series. Thank you for teaching.
@Danny Richie Just interested as to what bypassing the tweeter's first L-Pad resistor with a capacitor does to the frequency response? Thanks again for all the videos!
