Building your own power meter with the Peacefair PZEM-022

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Continuing the series of building your own lab equipment, this video shows you how to build a power meter using a rather nicely made module from Peacefair. The result is a useful meter that is similar in capability to the well-known HOPI frequently used in BigCliveDotCom's RU-vid channel but significantly cheaper.
Please only attempt building this if you are familiar with mains voltage safety precautions and regulations
Parts used:
PZEM-022-AC-Digital-Display-Power-Monitor-Meter Banggood no: 1356307
ABS plastic box, 80x200x60, GA, IP54 RS-Components Stock no.: 1748901 (*)
13A panel mount socket white RS-Components Stock no.: 5000459
Mains Inlet,C14 10A,250Vac,Screw RS-Components Stock no.: 8117207
(*) the picture on the RS-website for stock no 1748901 looks different but it does refer to the correct box GA8-20-6 by Takachi Electric. I think RS used one stock picture for the whole series of GAxxxx boxes

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1 ноя 2019

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Комментарии : 81

@rogerpry7576 4 года назад

Excellent presentation. Probably the best explanations of all of the aspects of power analysis.This presentation should be required watching for any electronics and electrical function learning. Perfectly explained with no confusing commentary. Very, Very good!

@keithcoltron3171 3 года назад

Many thanks for your excellent presentation, if one cannot understand then one should NOT attempt a build, very easy to follow, well done!

@ThisRandomUsername Год назад

This is a fantastic guide. I bought some of these some time ago for basic home power measurements, and was wondering what the accuracy was. It's great to know it's pretty good. Thanks! You got a new subscriber.

@wolar58 Год назад

Excellent presentation 👍

@t1d100 3 года назад

Folks that read the comments will find that, at one point, I became confused (by health issues) about making the wiring changes needed for separating the DUT voltage reading at R13. My problem was in sorting out the combination of the AC which powers the unit and the AC which the meter is reading. To save others confusion, the object of the change is as follows… The meter is similar to a multimeter. However, it does additional math calculations to display not only the typical voltage and current readings of a multimeter, but also the wattage information of a watt meter, such as the “Kill-O-Watt.” The meter is powered by AC which is supplied to the AC line and neutral terminals of the screw terminal block. And here is the trick… The IC chip also reads the AC voltage across these same two terminals, by way of traces on the PCB board. This has the effect of causing the meter’s burden voltage to be included in the AC voltage reading. It also means that the meter can not read voltages that are lower than what is needed to power the meter through its onboard transformer; 80VAC. Returning to the multimeter example… R13 is in the trace path reading the line AC. By replacing R13 with a through-hole type resistor of the same 1M value and adding a wire lead to its lifted pin (See video for instructions,) you are, effectively, creating the positive probe for the multimeter. (The negative multimeter probe, in this example, is a trace going to the neutral terminal.) You can then read the voltage in a location which does not include the burden voltage of the meter. And, because the meter is still powered with the full voltage supplied on the AC screw terminals, you can read voltages below 80VAC. Our “multimeter” is special, because it has two sets of “leads” and it can read voltages and currents at the same time.… The current “leads” are simply the wires going to the coil. The coil is what reads the current. In TheHWcave videos, and other YT videos on using the various types of PeaceFair meters, you will find comments regarding using a common DC battery to power the unit. If so used, the AC components of the AC power supply must be disconnected. Then, the battery is connected after the point where the AC voltage supply would have been rectified down to a regulated DC level that the IC chip can work from. I hope this helps your understanding. REMEMBER, THESE CHANGES INVOLVE DANGEROUS MAINS LEVEL AC. I AM NOT AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER. I ACCEPT NO LIABILITY.

@TheHWcave 3 года назад

totally agree, and just a reminder, if you use a battery, (e.g. a power bank) it must be completely disconnected from the module before charging. Also the battery itself when powering the module must not be touched because it will be on mains voltage level!

@bruss273 Год назад

Thanks, your video was very helpful

@SKraus-pb1ii 3 года назад

Very interesting thanks a lot!!

@walterenzo99 2 года назад

Sehr gutes Video! Vielen Dank!! Werde mir auch eins beschaffen und installieren.

@hamdzuii 2 года назад

very interesting review.

@LarryKapp1 4 года назад

Thanks for your detailed explanation of how this meter works. I recently installed the same meter on my solar system with the CT on the output of my pure sine wave inverter. The CT is wired about 20 or 30 feet ( 6 to 9 meters ) away using I think 16 gauge wire . I have the AC of the meter hooked up to local outlet . So I am not sure if these modifications effect the accuracy of the meter or not. What I don't understand is right now it shows me 117v 0.895A 32 watts 0.31 PF or close . It seems to me that I am using a lot more than 32 watts of power since the amps is much higher . If I turn on waffle iron resistance load then it jumps to 115v 8.8 amps 1 kw 1.0 PF which seems a lot more accurate on the watts. Do you have any suggestions ? Maybe I need to move the AC power input to meter at the same source as the CT instead of at the end of an AC circuit ? Thanks again for your video !

@oliwatson6096 4 года назад

I think you should connect the AC input to the inverter. The voltage is probably slightly different to the wall outlet, and the power factor measurement needs to compare the changes in current to the changes in voltage to show an accurate reading

@LarryKapp1 4 года назад

@@oliwatson6096 Thanks - I will give that a try.

@user-bl1eh2qs9o Год назад

I ordered one recently. They have made the button taller so it's easy to press now.

@TheHWcave Год назад

That is good news. I was using mine the other day away from the workbench and had to hunt for a pen to be able to press the button....

@Katupiry 3 года назад

Excellent!

@TheHWcave 3 года назад

Many thanks, and glad you liked it. There is a follow-on video I made where I made a simple modification to selectively increase the sensitivity by a factor of 10 to measure smaller loads more accurately. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pb9Fp5J7lTI.html

@chrisowen2925 2 года назад

I have the PZEM-016 with a USB interface, is there a video on that? I am looking for someone that has already created the software to read the output of the meter via the 485 connection...?

@macminisilver897 2 года назад

awesome

@Dryer_Safe Год назад

Thank you for your video. Though I am still completely confused by wire connectivity. The instructions say "wiring must be correct" But if you look at the paper instructions and the sticker on the back, the light bulb polarity is reversed. I think the load goes to pin 2 from the bottom as you look at the back. Is that correct? Also you seem to connect the coil red wire to pin 4 (from the bottom) but I do not see it clearly. Is it 4 or 3? Does it matter?

@TheHWcave Год назад

Looking at the module so that you can read the sticker, the terminal strip is on your left. The top two terminals are for the current transformer. In this application the polarity does not matter (the module does not distinguish flow direction). In my built I put the red wire of the current transformer in the top. The lower two terminals are to provide mains power to the module, again polarity does not matter. I put live/line (brown) at the bottom and neutral (blue) above. It does not matter whether you put the load's live/line wire or neutral wire through the current transformer, I used the live/line (brown) wire. What is important that you tap the power for the module before the current transformer like it is shown on the sticker. Otherwise the module would always measure its own power consumption plus the load.

@Dryer_Safe Год назад

@@TheHWcave Thank you so much, that was very helpful.

@ChainsawFPV Год назад

Does the input power HAVE to come from the circuit being tested, or can I use a different source?

@TheHWcave Год назад

I believe someone may have found a way but it isn't easy. There are two alternatives that I am using personally. The closest is the DL69-2048 which also needs a modification to separate measured voltage from supply voltage but it is all described here in my video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jr42rQMymN8.html and works well. The second is using the PZEM-004T, but that has no built-in display and also needs a modification described here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qRsjsenvlJA.html if you want to power it from USB

@jenskaa4044 4 года назад

Nice video. Do you think its possible to drive the meter with an external supply in order to make it Work closer to zero volt? I World like to use the meter together with a Vario transformer

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

Hi Jens, it might be possible to isolate the input pin of the 3.3 regulator and feed-in an external 5V instead but there are a lots of uncertainties. Are all electronics on the 3.3V rail including the LCD? Also I am pretty sure the module uses a resistor divider to scale mains voltage to the analog input. So the electronics will be on mains level whatever you do for power. This means your external 5V has to be floating which rules out most of the usual 5V “USB-charger” switch mode supplies. Safest bet would be to make a linear power supply using a 5V regulator and a properly isolated transformer. Depending on what you want to do, there is a (safer) alternative. To get current and power factor, you could do what I demonstrated and feed the module directly from 240V mains but run your variac load through the current transformer. You might add a separate AC RMS panel voltmeter to read the voltage from your variac. The only issue would then be that the power figure isn’t correct and you would need to multiply the current readout with the number on the separate voltmeter for that. I would add a (manual) switch that connects the module from straight 240V mains to use your variac once the voltage gets over 40-50V and then all displayed values would be correct.

@banalestorchid5814 4 года назад

Internally the unit is powered from a 3.3v supply via a regulator so the electronics could be powered with a single lithium battery. Of course if you wanted to use it for a long-term metering application then that wouldn't any good. I would be curious as to how much current the electronics uses, I suspect less than 50ma.

@jenskaa4044 4 года назад

Actually it is quit simple to modify. The resistor R13 (beside the connector) is where voltage and frequency is measured. Remove this resistor (1 MOhm) and replace it with a new trough-hole 1 MOhm resistor where the end of the resistor closest to the boarder of the PCB should be connected to what you want to measure (and not to the SMD terminal). Apply your line voltage to the AC in terminals. Notice that the terminal closest to the current transformer is a shared Null.

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

Just so I understand it correctly: You are still using the AC terminal to power the module from mains but the voltage to me measured is coming in through the "open end" of the 1 Mohm resistor (and the shared null)? That is a great modification. I like it!! What is the lowest voltage it displays (correctly)?

@jenskaa4044 4 года назад

@@TheHWcave you are right. I think it can go very low. I testet it with my 24vac solder iron supply, and it showed 25/27 depending the load of the iron. I will do some futher test.....

@patricklions9066 2 месяца назад

So this needs to be wired into 120v for the screen to work? Seems like a battery would of been easier for as little power as it draws for the display.

@TheHWcave 2 месяца назад

Since it is meant for measuring the power consumption and factor or mains powered devices, it makes sense that they power the electronics from mains as well. If you are looking for one that can be (easily) modified to take its power separately (thus allowing mains voltage measurements from zero onwards), I have reviewed and modified two other modules that do that. But these mod's are only for people with experience working on mains circuits! !. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jr42rQMymN8.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qRsjsenvlJA.html

@tomhoekstra1088 2 года назад

Q: is there a limit in length of the cables between ring and display? Rgds Tom

@TheHWcave 2 года назад

Its the current that counts here which makes the length of the cable between the electronics and the ring transformer relatively uncritical. For some measurements I am using a current transformer (ring) as a probe for my oscilloscope or multimeter and that comes with a cable of more than a meter length. See for example this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lf5nhBLmJ-c.html

@neail5466 2 года назад

I believe a 100mA fuse on both rails will be sufficient ! Will it not?

@TheHWcave 2 года назад

I am not exactly sure which rails and fuses you refer to. When I implemented the x10 mode, I added a single 100mA fuse in the current transformer circuit because the module is rated for 100mA on the current transformer input. x10 mode sends potentially 10x the rated current to it

@zm4202 5 месяцев назад

Are you using a separate power supply from the device your testing? Can I use an external power supply for power then just put the clamp over the device I’m looking to test?

@TheHWcave 4 месяца назад

Technically you could power it from a separate source but why? Because doing that would invalidate all of the measurement readouts with the sole exception of the current which would come whatever circuit goes through the current transformer. To be valid, both current and voltage have to come from the circuit you test. I have made videos for a few other devices that may be more suitable. Check my variac video for a device that I modified to take operating power from another source or the my video series on the PZEM-004T which I modified to run from USB (that one has no display and reports its findings via USB)

@zm4202 4 месяца назад

@@TheHWcave Alright I will do and thanks for the information.

@homedefenselawrence 4 года назад

Hi there, The HWcave... I am not really good at electricity but I understand some basics of it. I just ordered one and it has been delivered to my house today. I have the very same model Peacefair PZEM-022 100A. My plan is to use it after my Circuit breaker which is 60A 220V here in the Philippines - so as to see all the readings of the entire house. Do you think it is applicable and can this meter sustain it if I connect it after the circuit breaker as a source of electricity in my house and having this device measuring the current, etc. Please give me feedback HWcave for I am expecting answer and thank you very much in advance . :)

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

It is rated to 20KW and the maximum it will see in your case is 60A * 220V = 13.2KW , so there is no problem. The PZEM-022 is available with two different current transformers, the cheaper one (which I used) is a solid ring. The slightly more expensive transformer can be opened and clamped around the wire to be measured so you don't need to disconnect it to feed it through. I hope you got the one that can be opened because that makes installation a breeze and far less dangerous. If not you need to be really careful in disconnecting the cable from the circuit breaker. It needs to be off, of course and I would test that there really is no power on the wire before touching it. Then feeding it through the ring and then reconnect it good and proper(!) because any loose connection at 60A will get very hot and set fire on things... In either case, remember only one conductor must go through the ring transformer, either live or neutral, it doesn't matter which but never both. And remember, working on mains is dangerous, especially at a 60A feed. Whatever you do, you are doing this at your own risk. Maybe better to ask a friendly electrician to help.

@homedefenselawrence 4 года назад

@@TheHWcave thank you for the advice, I completely understand your instruction. Never knew that there is another type of PZEM that is open type and can clamp it to any of the two wires Live or Neutral. I think I will order for that and I will use it for my intention. rather than this one. I would use this cheap one for outlet only and not dare to connect it as I plan before to circuit breaker. Since I am not an Engr . may I ask what will happen just in case I accidentally feed the two wires inside the ring? would the CT overheat and burn? Just in case I thought. Best of all thank you for the reminder that having a loose connection hook to 60A would result to fire. Yes I will take your advice and look for the expensive one so I can clamped it easily to one line of my circuit breaker to monitor the total wattage and power of my business inside the house, 1 freezer, 1 ref, 1 heat press, 1 servers and 11 client computers. + house appliances. Many thanks there.

@homedefenselawrence 4 года назад

Also, what model or type of PZEM I should buy? the one that can be clamp ped as it seems I am getting harder available online to order. Again thank you.

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

The split transformer is definitely safer. Not sure what your suppliers are. Banggood has it as "PZEM-022 Open and Close CT100A Digital Display Power Monitor Meter Voltmeter Ammeter Frequency Current Voltage Factor Meter with Split CT" ID: 1356031 I guess the open and close part and/or Split CT are the keywords to get the right thing. If you put life and neutral in together you would read always zero because the fields cancel each other. Thinking about what you are trying to do, maybe the PZEM thing is not the way to go for you. For one the display module would have to be within 10-20cm or so of the big cable you are monitoring. That is usually not a convenient location and you still need to (safely) wire mains power to the actual module. There are very cheap power monitors that plug into the wall outlet, between socket and the unit(s) you want to monitor. You could get a couple of those for the different circuits (fridge, server, couple of PCs etc..) It has the advantage of zero installation problems and it gives you far more details of what devices in your setup eat the most power instead of just an overall sum. If you want an overall sum, there are what ebay calls "Monitor Electrical Usage Meters". These are essentially similar to the PZEM but more easy to install. I have installed one myself about 2 years ago. I have the "GEO MINIM Energy Monitor" (Amazon) costs currently £40 in the UK. It has a clamp sensor and that goes into a battery powered wireless transmitter (3 AA cells, last about a year). The transmitter lives in my case in the outside cabinet where the meter is. The receiver is mains powered, with a nice display of all kinds of parameters. We keep it in the kitchen. It is amazing for kids to see how the power dial jumps up when they turn the toaster or kettle on....

@homedefenselawrence 4 года назад

@@TheHWcave thanks , you have covered a lot of ground that is very informative. I LIKE the last device you mention, unfortunately, it is only sold at UK not in Amazon Philippines nor in Shopee or Lazada our famous delivery system online. And it is so pricey , almost 6x the price of what I have now, but one day I will get it as I am wishing to have it. I Checked the review its so graphics and informative. Again thank your TheHWave :)

@Goldern 4 года назад

My PZEM-022 is acting weird, installed all the wires with the most simplicity I could and it worked fine, tried to make it fancier adding a ground wire and now it's saying "139 Wh /// Energy" even when nothing is connected, what had gone wrong?

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

I need a bit more details. What do you mean with "adding a ground wire"? Added to what?

@Goldern 4 года назад

@@TheHWcave because the pzem-022 is acting like an extension, with two plugs in each end and the pzem-022 in the middle, just like in these screenshots: imgur.com/a/jk3Am42

@Goldern 4 года назад

Got it to reset, only needed to hold the button for some time and click it once, once it highlights Energy xD

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

Looks ok to me. Key thing to remember is only 1 wire goes through the transformer, either live or neutral. Yes, the energy reset works that way. Once you figure it out its easy. Happy measuring...

@Goldern 4 года назад

@@TheHWcave Thanks!

@barrygreengrass3379 4 года назад

The RS Stock no.: 1748901 for ABS plastic box you have given is a different box to what you are using in your video.

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

The picture on their website looks different because RS uses the same picture for the whole series of boxes from this Japanese manufacturer (very confusing, I agree). I used the model GA8−20−6 which corresponds to the given stock number (I think 8-20-6 stands for 80mm x 200mm x 60 mm). I will add a note to the description of the video.

@thegrimmperspective 4 года назад

Just curious as to why would you choose to "deform" the plastic to depress the button vs using an instrument to insert into the hold to depress the button??

@TheHWcave 4 года назад

Fair point. Initially I thought you may not always have a suitable tool handy to operate it. I rarely use the button since I am mostly interested in the power factor but when I use it (to reset the energy counter), it is usually with a screwdriver.

@t1d100 3 года назад

@@TheHWcave I noticed that the momentary switch is surfaced mounted on the PCB. It would be very easy to change it out for a tact switch that has a taller button.

@TheHWcave 3 года назад

@@t1d100 Too much work ;) In any case, I hardly ever use the switch because I am not using this to measure long-term energy consumption and I have no use for (silent!) alerts either. Folks that do use this meter permanently to measure their energy consumption may actually appreciate that the reset is not so easy to activate.

@t1d100 3 года назад

In your video on making adaptations to a model PZEM-004T meter, you point out that the R17 resistor (the resistor in the trace path that is reading the AC voltage) needs to be replaced with a resistor(s) of equivalent actually read value, not of equivalent rating, because the meter is calibrated to the actual value of the resistor that was placed in the meter. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qRsjsenvlJA.html @ ~16:45 This is true for R13 of the 022 meter, I would think. So, I have to go look to see if I can find my R13 resistor to measure it. I fear that it was placed in the trash. Folks desiring to make the modifications in this video are cautioned to retain the original R13 resistor, so that its actual value can be measured.

@TheHWcave 3 года назад

Yes, I was quite lucky that I kept the original resistor, actually only for the purpose of showing all the removed components in the video :) When I temporarily used one of my high voltage 1MegOhm resistors, I found the voltage accuracy to be off a bit. That let me to measure the removed original "1 MegOhm" and found it was only 980K

@t1d100 3 года назад

@@TheHWcave I must have watched the 004 video, before I removed my R13, because I kept it. I had it stored neatly with the case screws. My original R13 measured 984K. I replaced it with three through-holes that added up to 988K. That is only a ~0.4% difference and that is quiet good enough, for this application. I mentioned, previously, that I had to remove my screw terminal block to be able to route my wires out the bottom of the case. With the block removed, I had a nice bit of "real estate" on which to situate the new resistors. For folks that have the skills and equipment to hack the V9811A chip, the data sheet does state that the meter is calibrated in its software.