Burg Wachter PointSafe P1E Teardown 

I can imagine going in through the LCD cable hole and pulling the motor connector off the board and since it's long enough pulling it through the hole and applying a voltage.

Burg = castle ; Wächter= guardian - So "castle guardian"

Its Burg Wächter the "ä" is important and pronounced like a in "can". Translated it would be Castle guard, makes more sens, huh?

LOCK PICKING LAWYER: Hold my beer.......

I would trust it in my hotel room for my passport, no worries. That's the market for these saves

7:50 Just take some 1/8" rod and bend it 90 degrees, 2" from the end, insert it through the slot pointing downwards and reach behind the rod, then give it a hard punch. It will bend the rod inwards which pulls the bolts back.

Burg Wächter is an old company and is supposed to be one of the better brands when it comes to locks and similar security items. But well, they certainly have cheap stuff for a bargain, just to sell more in DIY stores. Their "better" safes (for offices and such) cost some thousand Euros and up.

I like this '70s style old school flatworm cable. Hope it's protected from moving parts. Key override is always a good thing on those electronic jobbies... And now try doing it once again just to see if it was not a Fluke.

Very cool.

The mass of those two heavy pins is bearing on that plastic pin on the motor shaft. I wonder if a bunch of hammer blows would impart enough inertia on those heavy pins to eventually shear off that pin?

You can pick a cross lock without a specialized tool, I’ve done it before. The specialized tool just makes it easier to pick. You can apply tension to one of the sides and pick from there.

What about smashing the linkage between the lock cylinder and motor carriage? It seems as this could be done through the flex hole. That could potentially slide the motor carriage and retract the bolts.

What was the purpose of the hole punched in the plate with the metal folded up? Was that where the cables for the front panel passed through?

My one is welded from some tread plate 6mm. Then a door the same and a cheap 6 lever lock. Yes you can break in but takes time to do so which is the important thing. Use the bolts and use bottom and rear art a minimum for this with m8 rawl bolts at a minimum. Then you can go better.

An angle grinder with a slitting disc will take care of the tiny hinge pins.

Introduce some gallium via the coathanger lol, wonder if you can make the arm brittle enough to break by dropping then give it another turn with another coathanger. Still, you'd need gallium and two coathangers... Perhaps analyse the thing with a scope just in case there's something interesting happening

What about using a coat hanger to rotate the crank? This would not work if the motor has a worm gear...

Better quality than most. OPE (4:27) is obviously German for open, or am I missing somethiNg, even a small n would be nice.

It looks like Zeizz icon key.

We do have one of these in our company to lock in some of the lower security stuff over night. it works, but we had some troubles with the electronics though. as far as i remember, the electronic control has a master key (that cannot be changed?) and will unlock the safe every time and then you can also programm one user key. the user key is erased and has to be programmed again if you use the master key. on some occasions we were unable to open the safe in the morning because of an invalid user code. we then have to get the master code and reset the device. we do not know why this happens, there are two possible scenarios. if the safe was opened with the user code, you usually hold the door closed by hand then press the close button on the keypad, it will lock. but if the safe is open and you enter another code in the open state (or just hit the buttons by accident), this will programm a new user code. in this scenario, someone might accidentially or with malicious intend have changed the code while the safe was open and then locked it. the other scenario would be memory corruption. when you enter the master code, the display will show you the current user code before resetting it. in these cases, when the user code did not work anymore, it was usually only one digit that was off. but we also had one case where the code was just 11. it is usually 6 digits. i have seen the option to enter a new user code every time it is open in hotel safes, so the guest can lock it up with a custom code, maybe that is the same intend here. TL;DR the electronic lock is not the best or user friendly.

Such a Safe is enough if you just want to be sure, that your kids have no access to the things inside. Like the keys for the car, or so.

What if you were to melt the plastic wheel with the pin on it? Then you could probably do the magnetic attack.

Watcher? It says Wachter. How would you ever pronounce that as watcher? (unless you have dyslexia).

🖐

This is not the kind of safe you get to put lots of money or very espensive jewelry in. Compared to other safes in the same price class it looks decent and will probably keep stuff safe from a random burglar with a pry bar if anchored properly! Good to keep some things safe from other family members and anyone that has access to your home, or any values less than 3000-5000 euros from the casual/random thief.

Please do a video on trying to break into it. I reckon that motor wiring is a potential vulnerability.

How is Odysee doing? Is it dead already?

How hard would it have been to ask Google to translate and spell?

I don't like the look of that Nylon cam wheel. If that pin breaks off you are in for a whole lot of agro!

Shaped charge

Drop it upside down. The moter will pull the gear out of the bearing allowing the lock to slide back. Drop upside down until rattling. The drop hinge end down until the bolt retracts.

drop attack would work

LPL will have this open under 3.14 seconds 😆

its called: burg wächter, hoden... hat nichts mit watching am hut