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Burner Not Working? Coil Element Test - Electric Stove Repair

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Stove burner doesn't work? This video demonstrates how to test a coil surface element on an electric stove top. The coil surface element is a commonly replaced part for a burner that doesn't work.
Other commonly replaced parts for a burner that doesn't work:
Radiant surface element
Surface element switch
Surface element board
Solid surface element
Element receptacle and wire kit
Click here to purchase a replacement coil surface element:
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Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:
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How to disassemble your range/stove/oven:
• GE Electric Stove Disa...
For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands:
Frigidaire, GE, Jenn Air, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Maytag, Thermador, Whirlpool
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Опубликовано:

27 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 30

@yusufbarey6458 3 года назад

Extremely helpful. 1. You show both analog and digital 2. You show how to calibrate 3. Very simple, precise, and helpful guidance

@AyyuBX7 9 месяцев назад

Helpful basic info that's right to the point.

@repairclinic 9 месяцев назад

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

@mobinna8959 Год назад

This video was a great gift I have received this year. Thanks for sharing this video Sir. I sincerely appreciate this wonderful video. Pls do you know how to repair the element limiter (the component that automatically regulate the temperature of that element simultaneously. Pls share with me sir. Thanks again

@josephherron7671 2 года назад

This is so not true. Elements can have continuity and still be shot. You should measure the current draw to test the burner. Or at the very least measure the actual resistance value.

@education9135 2 месяца назад

But some even though they have continuity they still don't work. dead test works but also live test is important

@raphaelmusyoka874 9 месяцев назад

Excellence in Explaining

@repairclinic 9 месяцев назад

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

@szaki Год назад

My coils are 5 turns, yous is 4… I get 23 ohm reading, instead of 15. One coil was not working, but found out the contacts were black, burned. Using a small file, cleaned it up, now it works. Also, need to check the female for burning marks. A year ago, I replaced mine, it was very bad, cost is only $5. 😁👍

@jenz695 8 дней назад

I bough a new burner and put the old burner on a different socket, turn on high and heard an explosion on the old burner, new burner works but after that incident, all four are low to medium heat even if I turn it on high Please help. It's a Frigidaire brand

@rollypav197 8 лет назад

Its very good can help very much thanks..

@slimsherman5818 7 месяцев назад

Mine has a break in the coil, and it's a Magic Chef/Maytag. My question is do I have to buy that specific brand or do they sell them in a Universal style? Having a hard time finding a 7 inch coil, thanks for posting

@cristianmartinez9049 2 года назад

Are there models? The connectors (of my element) are under the element instead of aside.

@michaelangelo6947 Год назад

@gvvq-pi5ml 9 лет назад

Hi there you forgot to mention if you get continuity from either of the terminals to the outer metal of the element it's still faulty, i have had 3 like that, not yours, in England we have a thing called an RCD which flies out if you get a short to ground from either wires etc...it made mine trip out, also if continuity across terminals is around 0 ohms would that indicate a short?, i think all the element types on your video clips on U tube can suffer with the same problems, could be checked with a continuity tester or better a 500 volt megger...Fred in Essex UK.

@repairclinic 9 лет назад

+Tom Smith The element should have some resistance, but if you have your meter too high you can measure zero resistance.

@largovinch4025 4 года назад

Thanks was a lot of help

@education9135 2 месяца назад

Oh unless it's disconnected continuity alone

@Wyttt95 8 лет назад

I will borrow a meter from a friend soon but until then maybe you can help , both burners on my left side wouldn't work then i found one wasn't seated fully so now it works but nothing can get the other to work, all the others when turned on turn on the little led to show a active burner except for the one that doesn't heat, does that mean that more then just a new element is needed ? Or would a bad element cause the light not to go on? I forgot to check the other before I fixed it

@repairclinic 8 лет назад

+Wyatt Torix Sounds like a problem with the element control switch Sounds like the heat relay on the main control board is bad, shorted closed all the time but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt meter and the wiring diagram from the unit.

@FelixAVargasA 8 лет назад

My kitchen was a short circuit placed in the connection where the 110 v wire is connected with a pair cable which go to the burner. It was first one and then the other.Now I have the two poles of my 110 v. wire bourned. The rest of the circuit looks good. Is a 700 W with 2 burners kitchen. I asked an electrician and told me that I need not look for a new connector I just have to connect the cable 110 with the pair cable going to the burner. Is that ok? Thanks for your help.

@southernguy35 6 лет назад

No one has replied to your question, thanks repair clinic, so I will attempt to. Not sure what "bourned" is in your question. Burned, bound? Not an expert but on one vintage stove I've seen an element that actually is two 120 independent elements on the hot with a neutral linked. Other burners had two hots and a neutral for three connections. Most electric ranges in the US are going to be 220/240. Could be the electrician was referring to that you had two neutral contact points to use that was linked together and you simply had to use the second on?

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