Hey, I want to offer you an easy solution to the rear bracket bolt on the lower intake manifold. I went and bought a 1/4” drive, stubby, flex head ratchet (pack of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2) from Harbor Freight for $12. The little one with a short socket was perfect for loosening the bolt and backing it out. I was able to finish with my fingertips (moving the manifold a bit unbind the bolt). It took less than 5 minutes. And thanks for a great video. It helped me a bunch!
I used 3 long extensions and crawled under the vehicle to get it from below. The bolt is super easy to remove, it's the upper intake bracket that is tricky to maneuver in and out. I moved the wire harness above it to be out of the way to make things easier.
@@kendavis6839 I assume you mean "without loosening the belt." The answer is that I didn't try. I essentially did a timing belt service at the same time since it all had to come apart.
@@bobcookson7611 okay that explains a lot your video is very helpful for the most part definitely wish I could have seen you put it back together looks like I'll be jacking it up and taking the tire off so I can get to the flywheel since I never intended on replacing the timing belt looks like it was done fairly recently hopefully I can get to the timing belt tensioner without taking too much of it apart thanks again
I have a collection of burnt exhaust Valves caused by spark plug gaps too big. Long spark will be hot and torch the exhaust valve. Keep gap close to .043 and all is well. Good video
Thanks. This was the second RX300 in about a year that I had a burnt exhaust valve on the #2 cylinder. The only thing different was between the two jobs was which exhaust was burnt.
Excellent video. Discussed all the critical tips, and you explained what you did with the head in the comments. I just picked one of these up for my daughter for cheap. It has the same issue. I wonder if I could find a different head for as good of a price as you did...we'll see.
Pulling a head from a crashed vehicle will better your odds of getting a good one. If you can, you can get the fuel injectors, also just in case they caused the valve burning issue. Good hunting.
Dangit! I just did O2 sensors and valve gaskets last year! I towed my boat yesterday and now i fear my exhaust valve is toast. 240k miles on the clock, but it has a newer transmission. So into the garage it goes! Thanks for the video. I like the details you mentioned.
Unless it's very rusty I wouldn't hesitate repairing it. The first gen RX 300's were overbuilt similarly to the Land Cruisers (25+ years of reliability). Except for the burnt valves. Don't forget to change the knock sensors while your at it. Good luck.
I didn't want to take the chance with all of that work and still have the problem come back later down the road for the new owner. (This was the second RX300 we had with this same problem in that same cylinder.) It would have been cheaper to just buy a new valve and just lapped it in, but for less than $90.00 dollars for a good loaded cylinder head from the junkyard you can't lose. (Just try to pull a head from a wrecked vehicle so you know it was running before it was junked).
@@local701 Man my Rx300 has a p0302 and I've tried everything and it wont go away, my auto tool keeps referring to the #2 cylinder. Switched plugs coil packs, injectors and everything, even the head gasket seems good. I fee like this is my problem. I compression tested the cylinder at #2 and I only got 30 psi. My other cylinders were around 180... What are your thoughts? I feel like I should just tear off the head at some point because I have nothing left to lose. I like your idea though, about obtaining a part from a wrecked vehicle, that seems legit and makes a lot of sense man.
A leak down test would tell you if it's an piston or intake/exhaust valve by the way the air is escaping. 30 psi is terrible indication of a significant breach in cylinder #2, but I would put my money on an burnt exhaust valve. You might be able to rent a tester at autozone (you will need a air compressor). The first RX300 was purchased believing is was just a coil, but the second was purchased based on just pics because covid had the in-person auction closed. Both had burnt exhaust valves on cylinder #2. Head gasket set I used(Evergreen FSHB2044) Amazon. You may want to change those knock sensors in the intake valley also while you have access to them (they are a pain to change otherwise). Good Luck.
@@local701 I'm probably going to do what you did and go grab a head from the junkyard for 100 bucks and then tear mine out and put it in. I already bought a gasket set, the bolts and a shop manual. I'm assuming this is at least an 8 hour job? Probably going to do it this weekend.
Did you reuse the head bolts? Toyota says to to measure the stretch area diameter and if in spec they can be reused. Also, did you recondition the head or just thow it on?
This was the second RX300 I had with this problem in under a year. The only difference between the two were which valves had the hole burnt all the way through it. The previous RX had the outer most exhaust valve burnt (closest to the timing belt) while this one was on the inside (next to cylinder #4). I did not check the valve lash clearance on either repair because of time constraints (both cars had deposits on them), but I believed this was the cause. Adjusting the valves on the 1MZ-FE requires new shims and can be tedious. The hole in the valve may be the result of a lean condition in that cylinder, but I find it hard to believe for this to happen to me twice on the same type of engine in the same #2 cylinder. (I changed the fuel injector on both jobs anyway to be safe) I may post a video of the first RX I did, but it's kind of repetitive and it wasn't documented as well as the second one. The only major difference being the trip to the junkyard to pull the head on the first one. Thanks for watching.
Live in the Joliet area, do you think you can give me a hand, bought an 2003 for 2k and having this problem don't have time to work on a car but I can pay.
