No problem.

Yeah it's 44k overdue now at 322k. The rust has got ahold of the frame so bad that's it not worth putting anymore money into right now. Strange that the drivers side of the frame is all but gone while the passenger side is in much better shape. I will be replacing it with another Vue or a 2nd gen Prius very soon.

@@consumercellc1109 It was a lean misfire from the air on the fuel line. They both sound similar. Thanks.

All 4 were sold. The Cobalt's are getting hard to find in good condition at a reasonable price now. The red one was for sale by owner for 7K back in May. Its got to be sold by now.

@@local701 did you do any kind of body work on the cobalt ss

@MrBones6773 Only on the black one. Which included the hood and front bumper cover and peeling clear coat.

@@local701 just asking cause me and my dad are fixing up my colbalt ss witch we are thinking on making it red

@@MrBones6773 They look great in just about any color, but that yellow one got the most attention.

I can't remember exactly, but I believe I used intake and exhaust port bolt locations.

Cicadas have been around forever. They mostly go unnoticed until the 13 - and 17-year cycle hits because of their huge numbers.

Not at the moment. Don't forget the 2x4 to help push the engine into the transmission if you're doing it alone.

Not at all. The Felpro gasket was good enough to probably be used again.

No silicone was used.

Made one yesterday. The first sighting was on the 14th, with increasing traffic starting on the 18th. Yesterday, the 19th was the mass exodus. The quiet before the storm I call it. The video is processed but not uploaded yet. Probably tonight.

Thanks. That was the first time I pulled an engine from a Prius. I can be done faster with two people working, but if you did it yourself it should be in the same time frame as mine.

Esinye isenzo sokulinganisa, elahlekile ekuhumusheni.

How did you fix it you said the cat?

@@thesonofalivinggod6782 basically l discovered multiple problems that cause a check engine flashing light or misfire on any cilynder, first was an engine oil leak on the spark plug, which comes from the valve cover gasket inside the spark plug holes, that fixed by chanching the gasket, The second was the loose electric ignition wire connection that i created myself when i installed the start button system, and also bad battery terminal connection, that got fixed also, in addition i have adjusted the head cilynder valves (they were out of adjustment, but that improve the car idling, no more hard idling), and the last problem is the vacuum leak, which was coming from the PCV valve hose, and the intake gasket, no much, beacuse the car was running fine by increasing the fuel delivery by 14 percent, PCV valve hose has been replaced with the PCV valve and the its bushing or called gromet, but the leak coming from the intake gasket, installing new gasket dosent fixe the problem. I will try to add some good silicone rubber to the gasket to seal any potential leaks.

Thanks. This was the second RX300 in about a year that I had a burnt exhaust valve on the #2 cylinder. The only thing different was between the two jobs was which exhaust was burnt.

Yes. The plug must be inserted for the recharge/discharge process.

This was the second RX300 I had with this problem in under a year. The only difference between the two were which valves had the hole burnt all the way through it. The previous RX had the outer most exhaust valve burnt (closest to the timing belt) while this one was on the inside (next to cylinder #4). I did not check the valve lash clearance on either repair because of time constraints (both cars had deposits on them), but I believed this was the cause. Adjusting the valves on the 1MZ-FE requires new shims and can be tedious. The hole in the valve may be the result of a lean condition in that cylinder, but I find it hard to believe for this to happen to me twice on the same type of engine in the same #2 cylinder. (I changed the fuel injector on both jobs anyway to be safe) I may post a video of the first RX I did, but it's kind of repetitive and it wasn't documented as well as the second one. The only major difference being the trip to the junkyard to pull the head on the first one. Thanks for watching.

The harness for the Prius is $159.00 at this time. You will definitely need it for the reconditioning unless you can make your own.

I watched this again because it was at 88 discharge. It had 2 more to go. When I came back out later it was beeping and at 179. I see now that it is Normal and called rebound.

The rebound is normal. Once the discharge is completed the battery voltage will continue to increase until it levels out in a few hours.

The Prius doesn't have a traditional starter or alternator. The transmission starts the Prius engine when necessary with one of it's electric motors.

@@local701 wow I did not know that. Ima bout two dive into this Prius thing, especially after seeing the fuel mileage they get, I’ve never owned one but I have changed many an engine and I was like wow these guys did this pretty fast. Awesome upload.

@@local701 I did not know that I’ve never owned one of these or any like it, thanks for the upload for sure I’m about to get one and do this, especially after I saw the fuel mileage they get

Don't have it

Yes, the number 3 rod bearing had spun due to the lack of engine oil.

After warmup the flashing cel does go away. I may check the tightness on my exhaust valves again as well and just leave them a bit looser…any thoughts ?

Update: 2nd cylinder spark plug was definitely compromised. Did the same thing here- pulling cables off while car running. Also next day when I went to remove plugs and inspect, #2s was TIGHT! It actually had eaten up a bit of the bottom threading I realized after pulling. Hoping cel lights stay off, it’s only day 1 still after this discovery. Disconnected battery to clear light. My bank one o2 sensor code got triggered as well. Hoping it was just due to the misfire.🤞🏼

It's called the belt trim molding. The part numbers are now in the description. They all have been discontinued, and can be expensive. Happy hunting.

Pulling a head from a crashed vehicle will better your odds of getting a good one. If you can, you can get the fuel injectors, also just in case they caused the valve burning issue. Good hunting.

It's a combination of oxygen and nitrogen having many uses of which one is rocket fuel.

If you say so. What do I know. Good Luck with that.

Holy cow that oem disk cost over $140.00 new. I tossed the one on the blown engine. (didn't know the assembly was that valuable) Thanks and good luck.

​@@local701are you in California..? I want to DIY swap out the low tension oil rings on the pistons for high tension ones . To severely reduce the oil consumption Is removing the engine a must?

@@camposvazquez It's best to remove the engine for convenience. The new rings require the deglazing of the cylinders to accept them. If honing the block, the crank needs to be removed. If the crank comes out, might as well put in new crank and rod bearings. If you are getting new bearings why not a new oil pump. The if's can go on forever. A used engine for around $800.00 may be a viable option also. Chicago.

@@local701 thank you... I am glad you answered.... I swapped a JDM engine before but I still had CEL DTC engine codes.. it wasn't 100% compatible with the USDM chassis and electrical harness I will look at your video again...I am in California... Any codes means a NO PASS