@@masoncato8738I think a reel with a light tension preload would be best and have the whole thing on a height adjustable cart that can be broken down.
THE TIRE IS TOPS!! AN SMALL STAND AND WINCH SYSTEM WOULD STILL HAVE TO BE CARRIED UP BASEMENT STEPS AND THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE! OR, WORSE YET , OUT OF A CRAWLSPACE!!
The only problem with this is that any defect in the routing of the original pipe, e.g. a “belly” or flat/reverse grade, will be replicated in the new pipe.
It will pass over and make up for small deviations just fine, but you are correct in that it won't correct a grade issue. This is simply to replace corroded cast iron pipes in situ
Clever idea, I'd not seen that before. Would save a ton of money if the old pipe runs under a driveway or anything that would be a pain to move. Putting the cable in the tire was sort of genius too, never seen that before either.
Pipe bursting in a very interesting process. I’ve never seen it done on a small scale like this but have done a couple of projects on large scale. The HDEP pipe they use is basically indestructible.
Brilliant device that saves time and the mess associated with excavation. Question...After the cast pipe is burst, aren’t you concerned that the sharp edges of the burst cast pipe will cut into the new pipe as it gets pulled through? Thanks!
The conical head and collar securing the new pipe to the device are larger in diameter and shaped in a way to divert fragments away from the new pipe so most likely not an issue.
Now put a level on that pipe and what happened if the level mark is going the wrong way. Recently got called to a house that had done trenchless well the pipe was grading but the opposite direction. Had to redo the whole line again. This time he did have to open it up. Guess what in 1 spot the pipe had been damaged by the old cast iron.
Two questions 1. why don't you use a power pack hydraulic pump instead of putting hours on the mini? Granted its another piece of equipment to have. move, operate etc 2.whats hammering the pipe in to make the connection.. I saw in another video your laborer calling for small increments to connect to a white pvc connection
well the mini has aux hydro connections and you need it to dig the hole might as well use it for the power too. they do sell a gas powered powerpack though
Instead of having to press the buttons all the time, install end position switches and make it automatic with a emergency stop button if something happens
Or , they guy who's already there to keep an eye on things can just toggle a valve. Adding automation to something that isn't consuming any added labor is a waste of money.
I’m not a plumber but it seems there was a faulty pipe underground, that lead to the building. Instead of digging up the entire pipe and putting in a new one, they ran a steel cable through the faulty pipe, and used this machine to break it apart and replace it at the same time.
If you're standing right by the puller when it happens, yes. The puller might fly backwards or the cable itself would absolutely ruin someone's day if they were hit.
You don't, it follows the old pipe, so any bellies or back fall will still remain, it's a half ass repair you can sell people to save money and convenience over a proper repair by laying new pvc pipe in a properly excavated and graded trench.
Another way to look at it is that the old pipe presumably had a slope that was correct from the house to the main and was probably pretty close to straight. That cable is going to pull in a straight line, so any minor deviations will be straightened. Additionally, the continuous plastic will last forever and being continuous, tree roots can’t get in. But the previous poster was right, digging makes the plumber a whole lot more money.
Yes cast iron! It's already in the ground. They're pulling the new line through the old existing cast iron pipe. That conical head bursts the old cast iron pipe as it pulls it through. See the word, "bursting" in the title?
Follows the old pipe, but also the plastic won't have anything for particles to hang up on inside, so that won't create a clog, no joints means plants can't get roots into it, so no clog from that, and even if it had flat spots of grade, water will seek it's own level so everytime the toilet flushes you get a gallon and a half slug of water to push clingers through. Just don't dump grease/oil/fat down your kitchen sink. But people shouldn't do that anyways.
