Had a generator that was for sale, $50 with the same problem. B&S engine. No oil. Crank was fine. New rod, piston, rings, scrapped the aluminum off the crank and she was within 1/2 of a thousands to factory - so to spec still. I think it was $75 worth of parts and the generator still runs today. I've had it for probably 15 years. Maybe more like 20.
Safety first Amigo. A friend of mine had his foot amputated above his ankle one day after being bitten by a spider because of using sandals doing similar work on a flower patch.
Jeff, we want to see you clean it up, buy a new rod and crank if really needed and put that sucker back together. Don't let that beauty go to the scrap yard.
One thing I noticed immediately was the oil drain plug on the side was missing, maybe it got unscrewed somehow while the engine was running and all the oil came out of it and blew the engine. But it can't hold oil without the oil plug. Like you said about the only thing that takes those engines out is no or low oil, it's rare too see one of those blown. They will start the smoking over time from years and years of use, like 25-30 years, but I rarely ever see one of those blown. Those were some of the best engines Briggs ever built it was during their heyday.
@@mateobrainardo4770 This definitely isn't your field of expertise, because no with any knowledge of small power equipment has ever called the 465cc Briggs L head a pos, not in the 10 years I've been working on this stuff steadily, your the first and you don't know what your talking about. Ask anyone with any real knowledge, they will tell you the same thing. I have more of those L heads outrunning the new 540cc pos Briggs 3x over, you get 25 years out of those engines easily, they normally outlast the machines their sitting on. I can't even count the amount of machines that had blown 540cc motors that ended up with those L heads transplanted and putting the machines back out to service. My personal machine is a '95 with the that engine, I'll never get rid of it, love that engine. I never have to worry about valve lash either, maybe once every 20 years. The new ones have tons of issues those old ones never had, the compression release fails on the regular, it never fails on those. I love those new engines, they break so often I end up with tons of nice, newer machinery for free and if the engine can't be fixed, I throw one of them flatheads on and out it goes, making it an overall better machine.Those, the opposed twins and the Quantums 1984-2003, the hey day. 🍅. Now is Towmahto. Theirs a huge difference trust us.
Jeff's - I'm surprised that you didn't try a little Hydrochloric acid soak on the crankshaft journal for the connecting rod. You're likely to find that the grooves and scars on the crankshaft are actually built up aluminum from the connecting rod and yoke. Boric acid eats up the aluminum and can leave you a nice, shiny journal to replace the connecting rod before you go chasing a new crankshaft or block. Saved many a scary looking motor this way...
The number of engines that die because of no oil is just crazy high. Then these engines are parted out to screw over the next person by association. This is the way it is Jeff. The number of times I have been asked to check an engine out and tell the owner of shady maintenance only to be told I do not know what I am talking about. My response is WHY DID YOU ASK ME TO BEGIN WITH ????. They must think I have a magic wand which I do not. Nice showing.
Same motor rod broke I got another one on eBay and put hydrochloric acid on the crank and lightly buffed it honed the cyl because I pulled the piston from the head and it runs fine now
One other thing that can break one of those engines is a bent crankshaft. Don't know how it happens or why but it happened to my 12 hp engine. Still runs, but shakes pretty bad. No, it isn't the flywheel I've already checked. Fortunately I have a spare of the same engine so just gotta finish the engine swap.
I just redone a 12hp I/C flat head, broken rod, the crank journal is 1.2470, after clean up the alum smears. a new rod outer is 1.2450 , 3 mil over when cold.
Video istruttivi. Complimenti..!👍 Qui' in Italia su' you Tube non spiegano niente sui motori Briggs&stratton.. per non parlare dei ricambi dai costi esorbitanti.. saluti da Parma..
I got a Briggs & Stratton 12hp flat head engine just like it but mine had a wore out piston and it was smokin like crazy so took it off the Murray and repowered it with a Briggs & Stratton 14.5hp ohv engine
Here's a tip for you and all viewers. The use of the proper tools increases the margin of not having a physical accident exponentially. A walk back to the tool shed for the needed tool sure beats a trip to the ER.
Is it worth it to get a new crank rod piston and rings and revive it. Just wondering. I love your demeanor, you always sound so calm. Love your channel.
@@dkeith45 easier to make a basic puller from piece of old iron bedstead angle iron cut to 6 inches long with two holes drilled in to match flywheel distance, the sump cover bolts fit the flywheel thread. Just put an old socket into the top recess where the 24mm bolt goes and tighten down. Piece of cake !! no hammers, no damage.. Cheers.. Great video there. Just have to get a new conrod (bad oil day !!).. bang !! lostinfrance.
Same engine I have in my old Craftsman Tractor. Might save that crank iby soaking it in Muriatic acid and the aluminum off. I've done it before. I beat a new rod and it will run.
Here is a suggestion. Buy a good 1/2" drive tool set with a breaker bar. Start the tear down with removing the cylinder head first and go from there. The previous owner never knew what an oil change was for after seeing this mess.
That's what's important the Cast iron Sleeve most Engines today are not and they self destruct quickly personally I love the Kohler KT725 22 horsepower V Twin Engine (725 cc)
Can get a cheaper Chinese made one from Amazon, probably in the range of 15-25 bucks. Not OEM, but will work fine. Bought one for my Cub Cadet 107 kohler engine, and it works fine. However make sure you look up the part number for your carb and not mine or his, they are all different.
a guy was gonna show me one time how to remove the flywheel bolt. did it just like you did except when the ratchet spun around it came off and hit him right in the lip
Oil: An engine's best friend! This is sad, because those synchro-balanced engines are a rare breed. I don't know if Briggs & Stratton even makes those anymore. Briggs & Stratton have largely transitioned to over head valve engines, but I don't know, if they make a synchro-balanced version with OHV. If they do, I'm their next customer! (I would love to find a horizontal shaft engine with this feature, for a smoother running generator)
Hey Jeff your sure that’s not just aluminum from the piston rod stuck on the crank and not gouging ? I had the same issue on my honda engine crank, and I just took muriatic acid and wiped it on , and it ate all the aluminum off leaving a small,amount of wet sanding after.. it it was back to a smooth surface.. tell them you learned it from me ! Tip # 00001
Um......your choice of work bench leaves me wondering....... Um....why not just use a puller? The time it takes to do it the wrong way will never make up for the time it takes to do it right. Using a pry bar against parts never intended to handle the force, well yeah, what could go wrong? Love the pan full of oil under the...um, er....workbench. Again, what could go wrong? I appreciate a video showing information but can't understand bad planning or sloppy methods.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Worth a shot lol, back to looking into rebuilding mine! I think its a valve issue. Never rebuilt an engine before, So this is going to be quite a learning experiance.
thats no good it was a quality engine Briggs and Stratton made before they went to crap today. as the flathead engines are no longer available that you Must go with a modern OHV engine. in whost cases besides a thrown rod the counterbalance weight breaks and goes through the back of the case as Briggs & Stratton calls it the syncro balance. but same with Kohler the engines are getting worse.
Yes, however I am currently making a video on using muriatic acid to clean the crankshaft journal of the melted on aluminum bits. The crankshaft may be reuseable after all! Stay tuned
Why do these posts keep getting deleted??? I'll try ONE Last Time>>> $9.08 Basic Medical Nitrite Exam Gloves (X-Large) 1 Boxes 100 Gloves,Blue,****-7004.
Jeff put some fucking shoes on. Your gonna fuck your feet up and you will regret not taking care of feet. Feet take all the abuse you put on yourself. And you will be in pain like me. It sucks having hurting feet 24/7
Interesting failure, my lawn mover did same, but worse, camsaft try to eat those loosened parts, its bearings broke and saft itself twisted. Is this design failure because I have it filled with oil to mark? Those aluminium bearings are dirt cheap to make but really bad, shame on you B&S!
