Safety first Amigo. A friend of mine had his foot amputated above his ankle one day after being bitten by a spider because of using sandals doing similar work on a flower patch.
When I start mine I make sure water is not only attached and on but actually flowing through the pump by engaging the handle on the wand while I pull. The manual says never run the engine without water flowing for more than 30 seconds. I think that’s even too long. I don’t let it run for more than 5-10 seconds without water flowing. If I need to check something or stop spraying I turn the engine off.
When I start mine I make sure water is not only attached and on but actually flowing through the pump by engaging the handle on the wand while I pull. The manual says never run the engine without water flowing for more than 30 seconds. I think that’s even too long. I don’t let it run for more than 5-10 seconds without water flowing. If I need to check something or stop spraying I turn the engine off.
I have the exact same pressure washer. I always run ethanol free gas through it the last time I use it before I store it. It’s expensive but at $20 half gal it’s a lot cheaper and easier than servicing it.
Just popped in to say thank you for the carb break down video. Tore my mowers carb apart. Cleaned the main and low speed jets. Put it back together and no go. Didnt know about the piece that comes out under the main, that was the issue. Took it back apart, cleaned that. Started right away. Subbed and 👍🍻
This video just happened to pop up and it is exactly what I needed. My wheel drive stopped a little while ago and I need to fix it but I heard a "clank" when the wheels stoped moving, hopefully it won't be too difficult to fix. II couldnot even begin to start messing around with it if mine was that caked with grass. WTH!
Easier to use a business card or something similar to gap the coil. Surprised you didn't know that. Also , why didn't you clean all the debris off before removing the carb? Finally, it looks like the coil was grinding on the flywheel , suggest sanding both surfaces . 😊
I tried several things to no avail. Then I noticed the keepers on the idlers were bent out slightly and fixed them as you described and that cured mu problem. Thanks!!
I found it is easier to remove the deck. After you do it a couple times, it is easy to do and only takes a few minutes. This allow easier access and you can lubricate and clean deck.
i use a paint scraper to remove old gaskets. its not sharp enough to damage the ally. Your video has helped me to get the parts i need to fix my 11.5 21A807 engine
This video saved me today. For the past few months, my mower had been running rough after initial start but then smoothed out after about a minute. Today, it started dying on me. I followed the steps here and got it running smoothly again.
I know its not in your video but what if that recoil spring has come out (from me stupidly undoing the bolt that holds it in!) does it have to go back in a particular direction to get recoil as mine is not doing it now 🤷
Have you ever seen one of these briggs motors with the intake valve on top? There are no numbers on my valve cover for me to see what series the motor is specifically (just know it is a 17.5hp in a Scotts S1742). Every video I have watched has the intake valve on the bottom with the aluminum push rod on the bottom, but mine has the aluminum rod on top which has caused me to believe that the top has to be the intake valve. But now I am wondering if someone worked on this motor previously and mixed up the push rods
I drain oil and remove the oil spout before lifting to protect it. I replace that unreliable quick turn junk drain plug with an NPT plug (any hardware store) which Briggs have GONE BACK to using because those plastic drains often break and blow off while mowing. I found out the hard way. Since they're reasonably heavy and I have a bad back I bought a used patient lift which are often used by motorcycle and mower mechs. There are many ways to hook the lift to an engine but I use a friction lock motorcycle tiedown. Then if there is no appropriate hole handy I make a loop of aircraft safety wire (every shop needs a roll, cheap online) and run that through whatever bolt hole is handy on the base. You can also drill a scrap steel tab or whatever does the job and bolt that to what you're lifting. When I get motivated I'll drill some angle to fit the flywheel bolt and use that for central lifting on the next of my Inteks I pull. (I collect LT2000 mowers and get many years from them. Multiple used mowers are cheap to acquire and every several years I buy a new engine to swap into the fleet.)
