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Jed don't use stainless as your sacrificial metal. The chemicals it creates is very very bad stuff. And you need good ventilation as you do this as it creates hydrogen gas. Oh and no need to change your solution just clean your cage every day. On your internal part it really only seems to work very good line of sight for me so make sure you have a strap going by your freeze plugs and deck surface openings. A person could get fancy and use some baler wire to go inside the block but of course it can't actually touch the block. I used this on my bucket seat frames that were in real bad shape .my Dart doors and it worked great. I've used it for tools as well. Great vid as usual 👍
🗿💨 forgot about you doing a video. Needed refresh on process. My 71 400sbc has very dirty coolant passages and this is what I'm doing for it. Its been destroked and ive had a good time outta the last time I had it tore down this far. Appreciate the words of experience from you 👍 Thanks Jed👍 Peace,✌️
Glad you enjoyed my friend, there are much better and efficient ways of doing this process, so I would recommend not doing exactly as I did, you will be able to get much better results
@@ScottsSpeedShop already thought of circulating air for stirring but was glad was able to rewatch your vid to help algos by even a little 🧲❤️ thanks Jed✌️
It works better if you bolt the negative lead directly to the block at a flat cleaned surface where you have a threaded bolt hole . A little more anode surface area would help too . But ya , this process works well on most metals . Nice work Jed !
If you were to put a small pipe, rubber hose, whatever, going to the bottom, and put some air to it so it constantly bubbles, it will help circulate the solution. Used to do this at work to stir tanks of chemicals.
VERY COMPELLING VIDEO my brother. As an ex U.S. Navy boiler technician, and boat restorer, I'm well versed in what you're doing also. Innovative and smart. I have a belief that if I don't give any advice today I will have a successful day. Pretty good on the anodes and cathode. The 28' 1972 sport Fisher I worked on 1st job I did was bronze hull fittings, replacing stuff that the zinc on the boat didn't protect, like ex. manifolds etc.You described the 'sacrificial' metals, but there isn't much on my car I care to sacrifice. The zinc is a sacrificial anode, meant to protect against electrolysis etc I used to ask the diver(hull cleaner) to take a small wrench down there to tighten the zinc nuts. They erode doing their job, and it's easier to see that they're working because of this, but one must look at the wiring for continuity. Thank you so much for your safety advice not often found on RU-vid like Uncle shannford like Uncle Sanford 🤔. That must really help your viewers out! That must really help your viewers out! I don't usually comment but I watched the entire video and I hit the light button.Take care of your father. Hes a good father. It's like all your fathers. They do their best!
My understanding is that electrolysis for rust removal is line of sight. That is why the galleys still have rust. Been wanting to try it and then use evaporust for the remaining rust that electrolysis can not get to.
I used *PH up* powder for swimming pools. And a little higher amperage. Be careful about smoking/sparks around this,, it's essentially a big hydrogen 💣.
If your doing body parts you can line a truck bed with a heavy tarp and use it as a tank. I think I had 8 or 10 cathodes wired together around it. Electrolysis is a bit "directional" you could say. On the body panels I'd find the occasional shadowed side that needed to be turned . Pressure washer was great. It also removed most of the Old Willys paint.
Jed you can buy your Sodium bicarbonate at a feed mill much cheaper than at the local grocery store in a 50lb bag for around 12.00 bucks . I use it to clean & soda blast carburators to get them nice & clean on ones that sat for years with all kinds of crap stuck inside of them & when done they look like new inside infact I have a guy at the car club who has a set of 426 Hemi carburators he wants me to soda blast .
I used a 5 gallon bucket to "prove the concept" and it worked well on valve covers. Wire brush the donor metal and drop engine back in, but 2 years later, I'm guessing it's a running engine by now.
Another good informative video, great job and the humor. If you build that 340 right for your application, your going to love that small block in that duster. Just as much as Jezebel. I'm running a blue printed 73, 340 in my 73 Satellite with 4.30 gear and gets out of the hole quick and surprises any big block car.
Great video. Might suggest a mini split heat pump in your shop. They're cheap to buy (if you do your homework) and cheap to operate. A little insulation, a wash sink, a TV....and before you know it MAN CAVE.....and forget a frig too.
Probably would have done better with an Acid solution of Vinegar. . . Acid Etching. I Took an Old Engine Core Crate and used it as a Wash Bin when I stripped my 318 block. 5gallons of Plain old White Vinegar, and 2gallons of Purple Power. Needless the Crate wasn't deep enough for electrolysis, but 5days later with a hard Bristle Brush, Flipping it over Twice. . . I got the Results I wanted. There was a 1/2" thick layer of Sludge in Some spots. . .and Wire Cone, an Electric Drill and one more spray bottle of Purple Power and I was Happy. The Only thing that didn't work out, was the Coolant Galleys didnt completely wash out. I had to let everything dry, and spray PB Blaster in the Water Jackets to penetrate a lot of the Cake rust and Break it up. Beating in new Brass Freeze Plugs and Cam Bearing Knocked all that Shit out. Then a Vacuum Clean, a Turd Hone, Tap n' Die Kit, and a Burr Bit made it look like a Shop worked on it.
I wish I had known about this about 10 years ago. The weather here in Kansas has sucked the last few days. My garage didn't take on as much water as yours did but I got more than I wanted seeing I need to install a gas tank in the morning. Have a good one. Next time I would leave it the full two days in the tank. It's going to be a muggy one tomorrow.
Excellent set up and vid. I did this to a set of rally wheels a d yes it did work well over a couple days but then i still had to clean and sand a bit to get paint ready but it was much easier.
I think they usually siphon the air out of any cavities, or vapor lock can keep your solution out of certain areas. In cars, it's always the ceiling and sometimes cavities in the dash of classics.
Well that's a kool way of cleaning the block, I've been thinking on getting a block and just start from scratch, just don't know what I want to start out with, can't wait to see what u got plans for the 340🤘
yep the electrolysis works great on old car parts or antiques ect. but you do have to keep an eye on it if the metals are thin. one video on youtube I watched the was pouring the soda down into the water passages where the freeze plugs go.
I recently had to do the same job on a Windsor block, wasn't real happy with the same method as you have tried?? So I made up a tank of 10% phosphoric acid, came out as good as new in only 3hrs boy was I shocked to see the result the machine shop was so impressed they wanted to know my recipe so they could make their own tank!!!
Make your self some french drains around your building, If your sill plates are not PT, termites/rot/mold will be heading into your future. Look for saw dust looking stuff or the dirt tunnels, those are not mud daubers. I love using electrolysis, complex parts need a little more thinking with experience. Those plastic storage bins for under beds work well for bigger low profile parts. Just remember recirculation will help. Think small parts washer pump.
Theoretically, a Gearhead in his garage or backyard SHOULD be able to get an engine block cleaned and prepped much better than the factory...cylinder heads too. I mean think about it that block is coming down an assembly line just like the bodies, and everything is in a great big hurry. Thats why on almost on any American engines 1st rebuild the mechanic will find plenty of sand still in the water jackets. FoMoCo was by far the worst for that sh**
I think having any sacrificial anode will work, but with the super washin up powder making it slightly alkaline, a piece of magnesium would make a good sacrificial anode. If you have a spare piece laying around. If not, just use whatever's clever.
not sure if you will see this, but in the future, substitute citric acid for the kaundry soap, the citric acid is actually in powder form and is food grade safe even.. I saw this in a jewelery channel a number of years back , tried it and have used it ever since...
The bubbles are probably explosive gasses, but, hey, smokers are suicidal anyway. Anodes are positive. Cathodes, negative. Just use a steel drum setting on two by fours! At least you put the cheap charger on an insulating stool. Liquid rust converter works well also. And drilling a hole in your support cross bar weakens it severely. (Why I do my own car repairs when possible)
If you want better coverage try adding the same positive ring you made in 3 section (top, middle, bottom) and attached positive leads all around to each one. Also the gasses it produces are oxygen and (highly flammable and combustible) hydrogen so make sure to ventilatr the area and no sparks. Low voltage and amps are safer especially for longer durations. Other than that I enjoyed the video brother it was rad hanging in that workshop
Use to chrome plate and same deal but the cage we use was lead tube screen looking and not sure if work same but when u chrome it we etch it same line as this pull metal off then reverse to help chrome stick .so I'd line hole take and it works off how many amps and solution mixer but higher amp will speed it up and how close u can get cage to part .but with higher amp is a safety facter it's not the voltage that kills it's the amps so be safe anyone how might read this . Hope this is a little help into other area to get info and solutions mix's .keep up hard work .be safe
Not a chemist but...maybe after the first 24 hours empty the solution and make a fresh solution. Maybe throw some different steel in or clean the cage you made. Then run for another 24 and see if the block continues to improve.
I used ELECTROLYSIS to clean the rust from break calipers, I read some about hydrogen embrittlement, I bought new brake calipers. I would like to know the truth about hydrogen embrittlement
Just an FYI: It didn't make a difference to add the whole box of detergent in. At some point, you increase the concentration to a point where it plateaus. Adding additional detergent will not increase the concentration.
For the water jackets you need the solution to circulate so the charged solution can move through the chambers, Spray with tranny or wd-40 to stop flash rust.
Same problem I have , rain water comes in under my man door frame almost every time it rains a lot. I am going to get my son to dig down in front of the door , see what is going on and seal it off with something to stop this BS from happening.
Great video mate and thank you. I've been doing electrolysis for a couple of years now and love the results. I was surprised how well it worked for you using the chain for a connection. The washing soda has one purpose and that is to add conductivity to the water so dont be shy with adding it. I've never done a job the size of yours (but the bigger the job, the longer it takes) but do remove the anodes (positive) every day and hit em hard with the pleasure cleaner. Ventilation is a must because you are making hydrogen. Dont bother with changing the solution, it will work for many jobs. Now I have a question for you; Have you done any work yet with brass amongst the steel? I haven't and I don't know what will happen. Maybe someone can tell me.
Just watched a video where the guy did this on a smaller scale. He put a cover on it and ran a hose off of it, then he dipped the other end of it in a soap solution and made a 2" diameter soap bubble then lit it. Bang! from a 2" soap bubble it sounded like a firecracker. Your lucky you still have a garage and your neighbors houses around you. Your science experiment takes water apart, (2 atom hydrogen - 1 atom oxygen. ie Rocket fuel when compressed into a liquid). IF YOU FILL YOUR GARAGE WITH THESE VAPORS, AND SOMETHING SPARKS...... BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM,-------------------------- THERE GOES THE NEIGHBORHOOD.😵😨 ------------------- DO THIS OUTSIDE ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You could have also run a couple of lengths of rebar down in side the water jacket and just hooked the negative electrode 2 them for a day and cleaned them out also. Just don't touch the block with them.
@nex4618 that's actually a fairly good idea, I know it slowly will eat away at the sacrificial metal, so if you could get the trashcan inside of the barrel that would actually be pretty dang cool! Great idea
Enjoyed the vid it was very informative. Either I missed it, or you didn't mention how you ended up getting the bores so smooth during the cleaning process. I get that you used the wire brush and wire wheel, but obviously you didn't use that on the clyinder walls. Did they come clean just from wiping them out with a rag....or?
No, I used my soft wire brush on my hand drill for the bores, I use specific ones on my drill for doing carbs all the time, and they don't scare the aluminum or zinc castings. So it isn't going to touch this cast iron, and the bores were fine other than one cylinder that needed sleeved to match the others
