Get a LockandLube locking coupler for that grease gun. Most parts houses and farm stores have upgrade parts for grease guns. Fix that bigger brush hog and make a nice unit and sell it to off set costs. Your one heck of a fabricator that is for sure. Sure nice to see young folks willing to jump on a project and learn and make it wotk.
Old sand left in the sand blaster then moisture from the air compressor, needs to have air dryer on compressor. Never leave sand in them little blasters.
Lock and lube for sure. I bought one. The thing is great on the tractor and all my attachments. There are other brands. I haven't used them but same idea doesn't come off once you have it locked on and doesn't leak grease
Next time u have a zerk that won’t take grease use an awl or nail and tap the ball. Bout 90 % of the time I’ve found them stuck. Hope this helps. Enjoy all your videos!
Hey Dave I am Blakes Grandpaw. That grease gun coupler Is "LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler". I got to come over and check out your collection of adjustable wrenches. Stop by and see me again.
Those big diesel compressors work well for sand blasting. But, a sandblasting attachment for a pressure washer works really good if you got a big pressure washer, like a 8hp or better. If I got something pretty big to sand blast like those bush hogs, the pressure washer is the way to go. The sandblasting attachment is pretty cheap, under $100. It uses a lot of sand, so find the cheapest driest sand you can find that'll flow, and make sure your sand stays dry in the bucket. cover it with a garbage bag or something. Yo probably won't recover any sand because the pressure washer throws that sand hard...it flys everywhere.
for sandblasting you need a good air dryer to ensure that the blasting sand does not become damp from the humidity from the air from the compressor, causing the blasting sand to clump and not come out well. and a small vibrating motor on the boiler often helps too. an acquaintance of mine made one ourselves from an old drilling machine where the housing broke due to a fall from a ladder but the machine parts were still fine, took an old blunt drill with 2 nuts on one side Welded each other on the drill and that's how we built a vibrating motor from waste actually
Great idea to purchase beat to hell brush hogs and restore them if even to a little bettr than when you found them. I would suppose they are always in demand. I hate the smell of gear oil...UGH.....Beautiful Work!!
Brush hogs are how I am learning to weld :) I keep breaking it. I need to figure out what kind of stick can weld the deck of these without blowing a hole through it. Down to 80A with a 3/32 6013 I keep melting through things then having to build it back up in quick passes. Fingers crossed I figure this out.
Nice brush cutter dude! I wasn't sure if you were wearing a dust mask while sand blasting. Great job with the paint prep and painting. The gearbox sounds like it has a bad bearing like you mentioned. I wonder if the oil leaked out? Again, nice work and thanks for the video.
Sand Blaster. 150 CFM tow behind diesel compressor, water separator and a much bigger pot. 3/4” or 1” air hose to the pot. That’s pretty much what’s needed and the minimum to blast with any kind of speed. Oh and your compressor is either 25 or 29 CFM.
Well done! My only question is did you sharpen those blades before you started cutting? Think about this you’re using a straw for the air hose. A bigger air hose may be very helpful.
Sand blasting is slow. Bigger the gun the faster it goes. An air dryer on the air supply is a good idea too. There are different blasting medias that cut better that others too.
Sand will cake with moisture. Try to keep it dry. Volume of air is important especially with air compressors. High volume = more money. Shop for CFM not PSI.and don’t choke a good compressor with small hose.
That gearbox is definetely a Massey Ferguson. I have one identical. The input oil seal is almost impossible to find as the unit was manufactured prior to 1977. Under the input seal is a big ball bearing and race which is most likely causing the heat issue.
The only way to speed up the sandblasing process, bigger nozzle and more air flow. CFM is the most important thing when sandblasting, besides clean dry air. That size unit won't really handle a large nozzle, and isn't going to get anything done quickly. It's going to be a long process to fully blast that thing lol.
everything needs to be dry, hoses too, as for speed, there are different types of blasting media, but the ones that are fast are also pretty rough on metal, the deeper and more rust they have the are the more chances of punching pin holes, or worse.
Ya best get rid of the top link and put a chain on there or you will be fixin the tail wheel or its struts. The tail has to have unrestricted up movement or something will break or bend when you run over a stump or the like.
Very nice…but your Branson should easily handle that bigger ‘Hog. 3 point Lift arms on those will lift near 3K and you have the horsepower. I run a 5’ hog on my Branson 3515H, so your bigger frame tractor with the bigger motor will handle a 6’. Oh…and Slip clutch. Ain’t nobody got time for replacing sheer bolts. Amazon.
I thought it had a whine ( I am def no expert) but ours hasn’t done much and is practically silent. Think the “bad bearing” call may be correct. Nice work, sand blasting is a bitch, as others have mentioned “ moisture is your enemy” 👋🇬🇧
Remember when taking these things apart, Lubie Doobie is always your best friend , Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst, Liquid Wrench L116 Penetrating Oil , KROIL Original Penetrating Oil, Free All Rust Eater Deep Penetrating Oil are all good with some being better than the others just depends how much you want to spend but I only use Oil , haven't been a big fan of straight silicone spray
Where to get the King Kutter stickers from? I have 2 , I modified on for drawbar and one for 3 point hitch I'm painting them soon and haven't been able to find the stickers anywhere. Thanks for the video.
Looks like you need to tighten the grease fitting coupler; it should have spring loaded jaws inside that fit tightly around the zerk - they can usually be adjusted to make them tighter/looser. See here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sq9MNUHwUFY.html You shouldn't be able to just pull the coupler off the zerk. As others have mentioned, the Lock-N-Lube couplers are alright - they have a spring loaded handle that automatically tensions the clamping springs for the jaws; they are not so great for hard to reach locations though. For quality parts without a lot of guesswork - buy this type of stuff from McMaster-Carr.
I agree with The Home Pros. Professional sand blasters for production have a big pressure pot with about 1 1/2" diameter rubber hose, plus an enclosed area designed to trap the media for recovery. Those little sandblasters are way too slow, and use too much media unless it is recoved. Wire brushing and brushing Rustoleum the better option.
Dude put new metal on the yellow one the blue one fix the gearbox the heavy one I research it more I did yazzo and turf blazer deck all time I my lawn service I build that heavy one with soild tires height adjustment one both rear make it a good turf cutter
Pour un tel travail, de débroussaillage, afin d'épargner les pneus du tracteur, pourquoi ne pas inverser le montage, pour travailler en marche AR ou bien, remplacer le cardan de prise de force, par un moteur hydraulique et tout positionner à l'AV, à l'aide de l'attache rapide, que vous avez, sur le frontale.
I'm no expert but iv sandblasted quiet often and if I didn't have big diesel compressor with continuous airflow I found hooking 2 compressors in sink did the trick second one doesn't have to be big just something to pickup the slack in your fill cycles
