People are too obsessed with what type of body you "need". There is nothing between the lens and the film when you take a picture so I really don't think a beginner needs to spend 100 bucks on a body. I started out with a 10€ Minolta XG1 and it has never disappointed me.
Agreed, got a EOS Rebel Ti, fits the EF lenses I have for my digital camera, has the functionality I wanted, only cost 50 bucks, now I can use whatever lenses I want, so long as the adapter exists or it already suits the mount. Sure, it's made of that 90's~2000's silver plastic that always looks cheap even if it's perfectly fine (I think it looks fine, but still), but you can bet ain't nobody gunna try to steal it either, so double bonus
I don’t 100% agree. Som camera bodies are more handy, some will allow you different shutter speeds, some will be more sturdy when others will be full plastic and not durable. So I’d say you are right when it comes to the quality of the picture itself, but when it comes to the experience of photography and to the settings possible, I’d still argue that the camera body matters :)
Couldn't agree more with this, to be honest with you mate. I always tell people that buying a film camera is a different game to buying a digital one. With a film camera, the body is just a light tight box and the results will have more to do with the film and glass you're using, whereas with a DSLR or mirrorless camera, the body is a big part of the package as it houses the sensor - so you want to pay closer attention to that. That said, I always recommend the likes of the Pentax MX, Nikon FM or FE, Minolta XD-7 and such for 35mm, or the Yashicamat 124g or Bronica ETRS for those looking into medium format. All are good bets.
Terrific video about camera testing and price checking. I’ve bought almost all of my cameras on e-Bay, but had no idea that you can pull up lists of recently sold models. You speak with real authority. Thanks again.
Great advice. I buy all my Mamiya RB67 gear from Japan through eBay. I always buy from 100% feedback sellers and in my search requirements always include words like "mint unused". I am finding that this gives me the best of the best to choose from. Great way to buy nearly new photo gear.
I've always recommended the Konica Autoreflex T3 for people starting out on a budget. Not expensive at all, real tank of a camera, and some very well respected Konica glass.
@@JonathanNotley worth considering that konica has a 40.5mm flange focal length. there are some great lenses (and some dogs) but are pretty much useless for nikon and canon dslr users. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
Konica get way too little recognition. One of my first filmcameras was the Konica T2 and they are a blast to shoot and the lenses are quite sharp. When I got a Canon A1 I was kinda disappointed, how bad the sharpness falloff in the corner was from the cheaper primelenses. Because of how good the cheap Konica lenses were.
Good to hear you mention KEH. Just ordered a like new D750 + exc + zoom about 20 minutes ago. Should have traded in a half ton of my old film cams. Good vid.
Great overview, Jonathan and I know how much work it was to put together. Lots of people will benefit from this content, good on you. After a while of working with film these, we can take these points for granted and it's nice to have a little refresher or at least realize not everyone knows these things.
Another very helpful video. As you say at the start just insert the name of one's own choice of camera, the advice holds valid for all types. Some of the BTL commentators seem to have missed the salient point!
I got a near-mint one from japan for 200$ might be expensive however I wanted one in like-new condition and I'm very satisfied with it. it's also the black one and came with a 50mm lens. The one I have has no paint damage,
You've just gained yourself another subscription! Thoroughly enjoyed this video! It's the first time I've seen someone open up the back of a Canon AE 1 for over thirty years! lol
My first tip for anyone buying their first film camera is to ask which DSLR they shoot. For instance, a Canon shooter should look to the EOS cameras, then they don’t need to buy new lenses if they don’t take to it. I avoid eBay, especially the "Buy It Now" even though my favourite, my beloved Zorki 4K my wife bought for me from there. A lot of people think if they’ve found a 40 year old camera they’ve found a priceless antique. There are also "fashionable" models and if you go ever so slightly away from those models you can get a lot of camera for very little money. I think my Bronny ETRSi was only about £150 it also means I can still use a Durst 605 rather than go for a larger enlarger that aren’t cheap. I walked into an 'antique' shop and bought a Zenit E with the Helios 44-2 for £15, the lens alone is worth £50. I now use it with some tubes as my analogue macro for the swirls. I always enjoy seeing young analogue photographers, but a young Brit makes me smile a little more. A very good, concise video, I would have been all over the place. Subscribed.
Very good presentation. Iv'e been buying and selling for years, "As is, untested" means it doesn't work. Buying from a dealer is cheaper in the long run.
The Canon AE1 was very succesfull. At the same time, for a little money more, they sold the A1 that was the first dual automatic reflex, speed or aperture. The regular 50mm of both was a 1.8 or a 1.4, and curiously the 1.4 was better at 5.6 or 8 despite the larger aperture. I don't know if the A1 is more solid than the AE1, but mine still works well and I never encountered any issue. I can't say this about a Leica IIIc inherited from my father and rarely used (my father used more often an Exacta).
The "What" is the most important question! Before looking for a special brand, size or dealers, the beginner should ask himself: 1) What do I need? 2) What do I like to spend? 3) How does the quality look like? 4)What's about the service or repair? Cheap camera must not be bad. Take a "Praktica", 100% manual with partly great and cheap M42 lenses.
In my opinion when you're starting it's better to get a cheap mechanical camera, something like one of the old Soviet cameras. They can often be repaired if there are some issues and tend to be cheaper. In my opinion it's better to spend far less on the body, get it CLAed and spend the rest of your budget on lenses. My first camera was a Zenit B but taught me a great deal about photography
I do a lot of thrift shopping, especially for cameras/lenses, probably my best find was a Nikon FE with the kit 50/1.8 and 35-105mm lenses for $20 Canadian at a large indoor yard sale. considering I shoot Nikon digital I jumped on it haha.
Canon stopped providing parts for the Canon AE-1 about 20 years ago. The most common thing that breaks on that camera is the battery door. I know because I used to work at a camera shop that also did repairs.
I'm sick of everyone buying AE-1s. There ain't anything wrong with a Praktica or a Chinon, they just don't have that inflated resale value. Great video BTW!
You will find offers from other countries on your local ebay website (no need to go to the Japanese site). When ordering cameras (and other stuff) from outside the EU into the EU (like from Japan to UK) you have to pay import VAT. The rate is the same as the "normal" VAT, in case of UK 20%, for Germany 19%, etc.. Your local carrier will request a handling fee for "helping" you with the formalities. There is no standard rate, but it will be around 15 pound/euro, and it doesn't depend on the value of the item. Of course they also have to offer you the opportunity to pay the import VAT directly to the authorities, with all the paperwork involved - good luck, if you don't import items on a regular basis! When returning an item, you can of course get the import VAT back (like you get the VAT back from your local store). But in this case the local carrier won't help you, and you have to do all the paperwork with the tax authorities (like proving that you in fact sent the item back etc.). It is up to you to go through this process or make a donation to the tax authorities. The handling fee, you paid your local carrier is lost in any case, because they have done their job. From some countries like the US you also have to pay customs duties, which are comparatively low (like 3.9% or so), but might worth considering when comparing offers from different countries. Let's say you want to pay £ 250 on ebay for your Nikon F3 from Japan + £ 30 shipping + £ 50 import VAT + £ 15 handling fee = £ 345. So if your local camera store offers you the same camera for £ 300, this is actually a bargain, even if the offer on ebay seems to be much cheaper! Plus you can check the camera before buying it.
@@JonathanNotley I think I'd have to sell a large chunk of my own horde to afford that red dot but I'd love an M3 or a 6. Maybe sell some of the digital.........
I had a good find in a charity shop, I bought an Olympus om10, 3 lenses, case and strap. Was in immaculate condition, all working and no wear. 50 pounds was a steal, felt guilty when I walked out.
@@JonathanNotley it's a beauty, small solid camera, fell in love with it the moment I bought it. Even adapt the lenses to my mirrorless camera as I love the look from vintage lenses.
Very informative, thanks. The 1 thing most important to anyone starting from scratch in photography is the lens system. If you are not shure you will stay in the hobby then spend some money but know that it may be on equipment that disappoints and can not use if you get serious. If you are willing to throw that money away then ok. Suggest a low f # Nikon or Canon normal lens to start. Forgot to mention: stick with 35mm film.
Great video, especially the advice on how to check prices on ebay! One thing, though: I may be wrong, but IIUC, VAT is charged on the total value, including postage, packaging and insurance, so I think in your example the total amount you would pay is ~113 pounds. But it's not a huge difference anyway.
I say go for good, all mechanical cameras with a reputation and track record for durability. Also I prefer to buy from camera dealers as opposed to 'chance buys' at thrift shops, pawn shops, etc. And I make sure the camera has been gone over and tested by the seller. Sure you can save money (sometimes significant amounts) by buying from thrift shops, etc.; but I would rather spend a bit more to get a perfectly functioning camera up front rather than find out afterwards that there are hidden issues. I recently purchased a couple of 35 mm film SLR's and lenses from nationally known used camera retailers and I received exactly as advertised and am very pleased with the equipment and service. In my case if the equipment was advertised in 'very good' or 'excellent' condition, that's what I received. And the difference in price was not that much greater than a 'chance buy' from an unknown source.
Interesting video, the most important thing to remember is this , is the camera repairable bearing in mind you are buying something that could be forty years old! The camera and lenses featured in this video are fairly easy to find as for spare parts who knows. There is a power winder for this camera, shouldn’t be more than £40. Cheers.😜😜😜😜😜😜
Hey Jonathan! I’m pretty new to your channel and fellow M6 (non TTL) shooter. Loved your calm and on-point delivery. I’m trying to get out of a rut and if you’re up for some street photography outing around London/Cambridge, please hit me up! :)
I bought a camera for $15 and it has a lot of fungus on the view finder. Is is possible to get it cleaned? and also the focus ring is jammed. Is is possible to make it work?
WYCameras and Ffordes in the UK are both great. The London options are, expensive and of varying quality to say the least. Some are better than others, one particular place with a particularly hard selling owner I wouldn't trust an inch.
I have several Canon film cameras whose lenses also fit my Canon digital series. Patient searching has found me a couple of mint condition cameras and lenses. I also have two somewhat hard to find absolutely mint Mamiya 35mm camas and lenses. 1982-1984 Mamiya ZM's that are really nice.
Japanese are honorable people much less likely to rip anyone off, most cameras/equipment I've bought from them has looked practically new including my Hassie and Mamiya 645 1000S.
Hi Jonathan Greetings!! Hope you are doing well I was looking for a used 35mm film camera. luckily found a MX nearby but with a mirror stuck issue in only few shutter speeds. The deal we finally settled on is 7,500 rupees(= ~ $102 usd) with the lens smc 50mm f1.4. wanted to check with someone, whether the issue is a deal breaker..if we need fix it how much does it going to cost me? thanks in advance
Shop around for sure, and always have a preferable price in mind to remind yourself that those higher prices are ridiculous ALSO I also have found some cheaper than normal cameras bc of misspellings lol.
Hi , just wondering can you get tack sharp images from film? By that having the sharpest lens and the right film , will it yield the same amount of contrast and sharpness as digital? I'm thinking of getting a Leica film camera
+1 for West Yorkshire Camera. People in Europe and North America shouldn’t buy from Japan anymore, unless they’re after something very rare that they’re already willing to pay a premium for (e.g., special edition, particular serial number). Japanese prices in general are much higher than EU merchants *plus* you have to shell out for customs fees.
Great video, good advice! Only thing I might add that I've experienced is you should try to test to make sure the aperture stops down. I have a Yashica 35mm and the aperture pin no longer has any function (so the lens never stops down when taking a photo). Haven't run into that with any other brand lenses but I now try to check for that when looking at a camera.
Hello, i am silvan from bali 19 years old, i am just start shoot analog for last few months, i want to ask what is the most important part of film camera to make a good and sharp quality? because in digital it has sensor and lens, but film camera only lens and film, so i am little confused, i hope someone will explain to me. Thank you!
I bought a Canon A-1 and nearly ruined the focus screen while trying to clean it. The foam that's supposed to dampen the mirror crumbled away and transformed into oil. 😱 This oily stuff got on the screen and was a mess to clean up.
@@JonathanNotley Yes everything works fine now. The mirror itself was not the problem but the foam. That damn thing was so dirty as someone ate a sandwich over the open camera body....gross. I just wanted to warn everyone with an old canon camera that that nasty foam thing can ruin a camera.
Hello, I wanted to own one film camera, to capture my memories.. I want point and shoot type Any recommendations??? Coz I never been in this field, so I dnt know which one is good 😅😅😁
Don't buy a Canon film camera. Buy a Nikon. The F mount is cross compatible with mostly all F cameras and D cameras. Just get a Fm. Or save and get the Fm2.
Jonathan Notley, I really like your video blog and what you have to say, but “might struggle with longevity”? They are about 30-40 years old at the moment (the cameras). They were designed to be used for approximately 5-10 years (before they would be replaced by the next generation of more sophisticated cameras). Regardless, anything that OLD needs to be properly CLA’ed and such. Also, not everybody has a deep pocket to buy the relatively expensive and sophisticated gear (I'm speaking from my own experience). Praktica cams are just fine machines. As long as they have been properly cleaned and adjusted. In the end, a good picture is a good picture. I hope it helps 🙏
Here in the US, we do not have the import tariffs (customs duties) he describes. In fairness, he should not have them either. Britain imposed huge duties on camera imports after WWII to protect its non-competitive little camera industry from German imports. Those British camera makers failed fairly quickly and there remained nothing to protect by 1970, but the tariffs continue as a way to soak up money from its population. A clear example of once you get a tax, you never get rid of it.
Most items imported into the UK valued over £15 will be charged 20% VAT, that is charged on the postage as well. Duty is paid where the item's value is over £135, for cameras, that is 4.2%.
At time frame 9:50......don t say....." the shutter curtain itself " There are 2 shutter curtains....soooo say...." that BOTH shutter curtains are ok....their in proper position....and they have ....NOT BEEN POOKED OUT ". I thought your presentation was.....super smooth as you were not looking all over the place, and you placed your words in proper order...soooo...you were ( as we say in Scouting ) BE PREPAIRED......in fact it s so super.smooth....you could sell a deep fridge to a CANADIAN eskimo.......
First don't follow the hype... so no canon AE-1 :) they are way too expansive now for what they are, so try to find some hidden gems like some Chinon CE (pentax K mount) or Chinon Memotron (M42 mount ), Pentacon's cameras (m42 mount) are build like russian's tank, you can surely kill someone if you beat it with... And don't forget, film cameras are just a box to put your film in it, if you master your manual exposure, anything will do... You certainly must be aware of the film's type and the lenses you put on it
Just bought the Canon AE-1 P for £145 last week. Think it was a fair price. It was in mint condition, strap, bag and two rolls of Fujicolor C200. Think it was a pretty good deal to be honest, and it also has a 6 month warranty with the store! I'm new to film photography, but I opened an instagram account so I can track my progress in case you wanna follow! instagram.com/35londonfilms/
@@JonathanNotley Wish I had seen this video before being suckered into buying my OM-1 from them at the start of my film photography life. Good thing I love the camera and would never sell it (and see a loss!). Keep up with the videos
@@JonathanNotley Bastards stole my (expensive, obscure, weird sized hasseblad) lens cap last time I took something there, and took *months*. Never again.
