I've had a c-notch kit for my 69 lwb for 6 months. This video may have given me the push I need to dive in and drop it down. Thanks for this great video!
Someone in the past 50 years, notched my frame and did not install reinforcements at all, just a cut frame 🤦🏻♂️. I installed the cpp notch, super happy with it now.
great job guys!!!! that c notch piece looks rugged, thats gonna lend a lot of reinforced strength right there where your sring/shock/airbag is!!! plus the coolness factor to go with it!!!!!! awesome !!!!!
Yeah, it's actually a super quality piece. If you look up the part number, CPP actually sells it as their notch designed for 63-72 trucks that will tow frequently. It's beefy. And the bolt-on aspect makes it very accessible by any DIY hobbyist.
Very informative vid, you have inspired me to start my own channel "Boss Chevy C10" don't have any content yet. I commented on your last vid as marc from charleston. Keep up the excellent work my B
Planning to do this to my 66 swb chevy with big back glass apparently someone pur on PS vintage air con but I seen you talk about a power brake kit for my s10 booster then wood bed kit her has electronic ignition already man il be on the road and Planning to attend a c10 truck show man keep your fingers crossed for me and my baby blue with white top and all factory chrome can't wait bro
@@albertocarlos2193 no, thanks. That bad boy is plenty strong. So many bolt-on suspensions and c notches out there these days (Porterbuilt comes to mind), no need for welding in a notch designed to bolt in. It's got bolts along the bottom of notch as well as reinforcement. I've driven it and totally comfortable with its rigidity.
haha! The editing was generous. Drilling out rivets are the toughest part. You need plenty of good, sharp bits and lots of batteries for drills or compressed air.
And you guys missed the the explanation of you need to block up the rear of the frame cause when you cut it without it supported it will sag I did mine with the bed off and it dropped I guess your bed held yours
Fella's This is an AWESOME well done and explained video, just finished mine and it went GREAT thanks to you guys, keep em coming. Only issue I had was them damn rivets are a BITCH. Also relocating my panhard bar, I am kinda stuck but other than that, it was fairly simple.
They do, but naturally bolting them in is a better option of DIYers who can’t or don’t want to weld. That sucker is definitely in there and reinforced well.
After the notching. Did the differential hit the bed? Asking because I’m going to be doing the same and need to know if I have to get a 3” raised step bed for it.
I think you just lost 2/3rds of you frame strength behind the “C” notch. Now, you will get high centered on a pot hole. Time for a winch and double check the four-way flasher! Question; How do you turn left or right. Hits the fenders regardless of KPI or SAI lift. Skid plated or oil pan, that is the question!
I have a relocated gas tank under the bed and have flexible braided fuel lines. I just pulled them out from the frame and we were very careful not to nick one on that side.
It’s hard for me to work with buddies that just throw stuff I mean there was no frustration with Ron and tell Ron that we seen what he had he about had the hole ls swap don’t be hitting up folks for donations the fella went to the Texas speed and got a load of stuff and could have went with cheaper stuff
These frames are c channel right? Why would somebody ever cut and butcher the frame to access the upper spring bolt?? Sad to see! Good video though, thanks for the content!
They are! That particular bolt is behind the part of the upper spring plate that actually boxes the frame (sorta) in that spot. That said, still accessible with an open end wrench of any length.
Yeah, we tried that Diablo 100x longer diamond blade and it was doing the trick but Ron is old school and liked the fact that the regular cutting discs are easier to use in tighter spaces once they begin to wear away. New blade for cutting and one with wear for grinding.
