I would guess the outer and inner tie rod end are different diameter & thread pitch. The holding bracket appears to be welded & one piece. As long as they sent you the correct bracket and seems strange the bracket would not fit the frames “Outer Width” as spacers could be used on the inside of the frame to backup the frame when torqued. Now, if this was mine, if the rack is centered between the frame, with the input centered. This becomes your base line. I would mark (Perhaps Letter Punch, I & O) then remove each tie rod adjuster. Move the wheels to zero toe and measure the length of threads inside the adjusters and cut off to center the tie rods (Mark Outer Tie Rods With Masking Tape). Hopefully there is enough length to work with as the adjuster used with the center link are only 4 3/8” Long. The frame on the Dodge Vans cracked both top & bottom and if “V” ground then backed up with thick oversized washer was common during 80’s for me, working on 70’s Vans. As far as the “Frame Bump” on the drivers side, I would heat it with a torch and hammer it flat. Removing material because it would weaken that area. Now a witness mark could be drilled and ground with small diameter disc on the bracket or spacer. Honestly, I would cut, “V” grind and MIG or TIG the racks bracket to fit the frame where lifted even, tapped up with a hammer to create a tight flush frame fit. But I would be on the phone with the company that sold this, unless eBay, amazon or craigslist special as modifications to fit the GM400 series truck should be a no brainer. Make it to fit then sell it to me!!! This crap is on them and not your headache. Hope this helps, don’t known how long it’s been since posted. Best of luck! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
My truck didn't have a sway bar and I didn't know the C10 came from the factory with them, so that's a question I can't answer. The spindles were 3" lowering spindles and I had to hack off 1/2 of a coil to bring the passenger side down to level with the driver side.
@Jimmy Rowland >I don’t think any aftermarket setup fits correctly. I would simply make the rack is centered to have equal turns left & right. If the tie rod adjusters are steel, mark and measure the threads of tie rod ends then have a machine shop cut 1-2” out of the middle, place a 3” DOM tubing over the top, drill and plug weld center front and rear, then weld the ends completely. Otherwise they have to make new ones if they are able to cut left-hand threads. I doubt if the company that sold this knows as tie rod adjusters are only 5” long and theirs look like 7-8”. Since it is a rack, the inner tie rods ends are usually smaller, otherwise the adjusters used by GM fit 4,968 vehicles over a 26 period. All the same! Best of luck! DK, ASE master tech, retired.
