Still fighting vibrations, so dialed in my driveline angles. Unfortunately, found some bad news! Follow on Instagram: / ss454_ls6 If you would like to support the channel: www.paypal.me/SS454LS6 / ss454ls6
Yup! I can see the wobble. That axle is bent. Years I ago I was gonna replace my stock 10-bolt 8.2 with a aftermarket 12-bolt rear-end, but I changed my mind because I do not drag race at the track. I installed a eaton posi with 3.36 gears and left the stock axles. The rear end performs flawless. No noise, no clunking, and floats down the highway smooth. I hope that you can figure out your issue 🙂
This video is old now but, I just wanted to say that the howling is a direct result of changing upper and or lower control arms from rubber bushings to poly or spherical (which are incredibly louder than poly). I myself removed the original UCA’s and LCA’s on my Mustang (factory rubber bushings) and also removed the diff housing bushings (also rubber) and changed it all out with spherical parts from BMR. On the first test drive after the install of the aforementioned parts, at around 15 mph I thought I blew my diff. I had a loud harmonic howling coming from the rear of the car which resonated throughout the body of the interior. I was confused.. The 2nd thing I noticed was metal on metal clunking when turning.. After parking the car and jumping on several forums I learned something. And well, guess what? This is the exact nature of spherical bushings. Anytime you replace a rubber part in the drivetrain with a metal counterpart (or even poly) you introduce a tremendous amount of noise and resonance into the body of the car. Take it from me, there’s a give and take with every modification. However you have to find YOUR happy medium and that all is subjective to the individual. I wanted to launch and hook better (which I do with spherical bushings) but it came at the cost of a quiet ride with no howling. Happy modding.
I"m 64 years old and been around hot rods and drag racing most of my life. Ran a 5 second drag bike that I spent untold gobs of money on. I finally figured it out. You will never cruze the miracle mile.... stop spending all that money and time building cars to empress people. Most people now a days dont even notice a muscle car drive by them. Save that cash up for when you get old. Your gonna need it some day if things go south and you cant work any more or get put out of a job .
Check if the drive shaft is bent. I bought a brand new Tremec 5-speed kit, including a brand new drive shaft. After installation I had vibrations. It turned out that the drive shaft was slightly bent. I had the drive shaft straighten and balanced, then the vibrations stopped.
Wow this is disturbing to see, I bought a Moser almost 9 months ago but have not driven the car yet........I was waiting for other parts to come in, I should be on the road soon ......I hope I don't have this problem........will be following to see what happens, good luck with your fix.
A lot of codswallop. Measure the up or downward angle of the motor/transmission and the up or down angle of the pinion. These angles should be parallel. I.E, if motor is 3 degees down, the pinion should be 3 degrees up. It aint rocket science.
did you find the solution to your problem ? i have he similar sound with my tru trac. at 75mph on decel , it makes the loud clunking noise. it goes away with a little bit of throttle.
Wow, sorry to hear and can't believe you have to deal with this again. I haven't read any posts below, but thinking the housing is bent causing the issue? Any way to have it checked for straightness? Of course probably most likely has to be done out of the vehicle using a jig, ugh.
I was thinking housing, but others do not think that would cause an axle to bend. It does seem hard to believe a bent housing could bend a 33 spline axle. I am still looking into checking the housing for straightness though.
I’m having a severe vibration at 70mph and above. Mine is a dragNdrive car that I’ve just got put back together and it’s unbearable to drive. But after seeing this, I’m going to check to see if one of my 35 spline moser axles is bent. I have a procharged ls making a thousand wheel horse and its still a factory 12 bolt housing that’s been braced but I know I need a more stout rearend to really get after it safely. Thanks for making this video
Sorry your dealing with that!!! you've given me a lot of information over the years appreciate it! could it be simply the torque that is a big block 🤷🏾♂️ also I would think if it was the axle tube cause the bend, it would be harder than normal or at least the other side to install the axle!?
I can't see torque being the reason. That should cause the splines to twist, not the axle to bend. Besides, there are 700+ hp cars pulling 1.4 60fts with these axles, and I only have 525 ft-lbs or so doing barely 1.9. I do agree about that axle being harder to install, but maybe the tolerances aren't that tight.
@@SS454LS6 yeah kind of a shot in the dark it's hard to bend something that thick but it's definitely bent 🤷🏾♂️. . . you'll figure it out we always do, life of a car guy 💰💰💰🤣
Did you ever figure out the truetrac issue? Having the exact same noise issues (clunk & howl) & vibration issues. Will definitely be checking the V-angles tonight!
No. Unfortunately, as far as I know, there is nothing I can do aside from getting a new Truetrac to see if that's a source of any issues. I also don't believe there are any adjustments that I can make to it either.
@@SS454LS6 I put in a 12 bolt axle housing from an early monte in my 67 Camaro. I was going 4-link w/ mini tub anyway so I started from scratch. Welded on the big ford bearing kits after narrowing for the mini tub. Turned out pretty well.
That does suck.. Hope you figure it out. I was thinking about going with a Moser 12 bolt for my 68 if I ever decided to build a big block for it. I think I will just go to an s60 and pray I don't have to go through something like this.
damn it!!! I feel your pain. I'm in EXACTLY the same boat as you. I'm not even going to explain the process of elimination I've gone through to end up at exactly the same outcome every time. nowhere! I have a trutrac too and same amount of slop. I was so badly hoping by the end if your video you had your issue sorted so at least one of us wouldn't be so fucken frustrated! all I wanna do is the legal speed limit but no, because of a vibration at exactly 100kmh. I can be under acceleration or coasting with the clutch in or rolling in neutral with engine at idle but always does it at 100kmh. so sick of it. anyway like I said before, I'm feeling your pain all the way over here in Western Australia. this sucks!
@@SS454LS6 I purchased PMT Motorsport adjustable trailing arms from America when I rebuilt my car. I haven't adjusted them, just checked them for length against my stock ones. I will be checking my pinion angle today and adjusting if necessary. I'll let you know if that fixes my problem. also I've subscribed to your channel so if I lose this thread and I find out the problem in the future I'll let you know so you can see if that's what's going on with your car. us shitty car vibration guys need to have each other's back!.
Good to see you got some of the driveline vibes out. As for the axle, I would do 3 things. Cheque how straight the shot is from the axle bearing to the female spline in the Detroit. You could do it with a laser cartridge from a rifle and an adapter made on a lathe or some other kind of laser level. Check check the straightness of the female spline in the Detroit itself. Maybe you can spin it on a stand and see if it wobbles too. If both of those are near perfect then you likely need a different housing. Maybe the housing has a crack in the bearing area that you can’t see but opens up and deflects when torque is applied.
Never considered a crack before. I did look into checking for housing straightness, and the pros tell me the only sure way to do it is by using an alignment tool that requires the housing to be gutted. :/
Stop beating yourself up on this, calm down and think this thru. Did you set up the rear gear? I used to do mine myself and used toothpaste on the gears to see how they meshed together. Maybe you'll need a shim on the pinion to get it closer and make the tolerance less. Bending axels is no fun and as you said expensive. If you do decide to buy a new axel, get a dial indicator and check the runout on it. You'll find something there. It's either the housing or the runout on the bearing where the race is in the housing. Just thinking out loud and trying to help. Best of luck pal.
I have the same wobble in my left rear on my 67 Chevelle. I have a bad vibration at 65ish+ and I'm sure it's my axle. I just haven't pulled it down to verify. If you have replaced it before I'd be looking to remove this LR axle and having a driveline machine shop verify how straight it is. (Mine is a small block with a TH400 and a 10 bolt)
Sounds like you may have the same issue. This is the 2nd axle that has bent on my car, both times LR. The last one was .047 out of round. I can't explain why it's doing it.
I think there is some confusion on your part.... when they say EQUAL but OPPOSITE... it means if your transmission is 2° down at the tailshaft then your differential should be 2° UP at the yoke!!!!!!!! So, looking at the car from the side-with your X-ray vision, your trans would be pointing down at the rear, but the nose, or front of your pinion yoke on your differential would actually be UP the same # of degrees, which in essence is still pointing DOWN if you follow the line of the pinion gear inside the rear differential. That is the EQUAL but OPPOSITE part. Your pinion nose/yoke should NOT be pointed down towards the ground---otherwise below parallel. It should be ABOVE the parallel line the same # of degrees that the rear of the trans is pointing down... see this video; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YgNZfIR-8Ng.html&ab_channel=GarageFab it lays it all out for you...
Im not confused at all. People talk about pinion and trans angles and don't seem to release depending on the height of those, the driveshaft could be sloped a ridiculous amount, or even be completely straight which is also bad. There are times when you can have the exact opposite what you describe, or sometimes the operating angles will be orientated the same way. Equal and opposite is ideal, but the equal operating angles are far more important, and should be within 0.5-2 degrees. For a coil spring car at least.
