Sanded the cab, masked it up, and painted it black. Looks really good. #c10, #squarebody, #c10squared, #refinish, #ppg, #ec530 Music: Mass Hysteria by STRLGHT Tumbleweed by Tigerwood Jewel Drive By. by Laurence Lee Murphy
Thank you for the steps and tips and tricks. I've never really been taught to do bodywork and paint but has manage to get decent work out of what I paint for myself. I'll be doing my c10 soon also.
Amazing job. Never learned how to do this kinda stuff but have been working on my 86 K20. Watching you do paint work gives me lots of tips and tricks for when I attempt mine!
Dittos on the nice things said below. I watch you paint a faux on the cab back of a square body and saved it. I think it was two tone and had the GM badges near the door. Damned if I can find it to watch the paint and air brush show you put on. That could be its own video for 40+ minutes. Thanks for sharing!
Great job ! 👌 nice finish only wished I had my truck done by someone who knows what they’re doin such as yourself. Recently had my truck painted about a year ago and they destroyed it . You’ve givin me hope that there are good combo men out there who do know what they’re doin . Thanks for sharing 👍
Stout Custom Haha I hear you there. Well I’m just learning this stuff and your vids have showed me how fussy you actually have to be. Look forward to watching all your vids. Again thanks for sharing.
@@OldeCarrGuy all info you can get is the key to make it right! so my project is a C10..all the good video to help make it happend is a blast! keep on the good work all of you guys! :o)
@@StoutCustom man ill tell you what, youve made me feel like giving up on my c10 project and feel like I can do it all in one day, haha. Your level of work and craftsmanship is superb vs my project that its depressing. Just keep telling myself that he has had more years at it than I, lol. But tonight I saw your video of mysterious primer contaminant and that got my head back in the game. Its not just me that has set backs. Thanks for these videos. True work of art.
@@teabag402 thanks for the kind words. It does take a while to get things going your way with this stuff. Almost have to do several all the way through to see what works and what doesn’t. Even then something can go sideways in a hurry. Keep at it. It’s worth it in the end.
Im in the early stages of my body work. I purchased hok black for my finish. I'm paralyzed in one arm so some of the sanding I have improvised. Thanks for the motivation and inspiration.
Your videos have helped me a lot. I have a 1984 4x4 . it's all sanded to bare metal... I'm using PPG 2 stage paint in black and white. Can I paint the base coat and wet sand all the imperfections out than paint the clear over it ?
Brett Johnson Steps should be bare metal, epoxy, highbuild primer, then sealer(optional), basecoat, clear. The clear is applied over the basecoat immediately after it has flashed/dried. Small dirt, dust, bugs, etc can be sanded out of the basecoat then a small amount of base back over the sanded spots, then clear after it has all dried. There shouldn’t be a lot of overall sanding of the basecoat. Only minor nibbing/sanding before clear. Basecoat is thin and not very durable so aggressive sanding would remove it entirely. Also sanding marks will show if more base is not applied over the sanded area.
Amazing!!! Two questions: What king of wheels are they ? I would like have something like them for my square body. Also why more scratch for black? I always thought black shows everything. I love the way you explain everything. Cant wait for the next video. Bob Baltimore Maryland
I can’t remember the name of the wheels. Someone named them in the comments somewhere but I can’t find it. Black does show wavy body work but when painting a solid color vs a metallic, you can have a slightly larger scratch for a solid than a metallic because there’s no metallic to lay in the scratch and make it show. Thanks for watching!
Kevin K Bradshaw Either one if fine. Single stage is more forgiving. It hides some imperfections and most trash landing in the paint is covered since every layer has color. SS tends to get fairly hard so it’s harder to buff than clearcoat. Base/Clear will show more trash since anything on top of the color coat will be seen in the clear. Most clear coats can be buffed fairly easily though. So...it’s up to you. For someone with less experience and a less than ideal spray environment, single stage is more friendly. In a good spray booth either will work great for a solid color. For metallics base clear is ideal. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Love the attention to detail. Wish I’d be able to get my 87 R10 done by you but I last seen you’re focusing on your projects. This would be my first time getting the truck painted. Question is which paint to get? I want to do the same light blue from factory which is WA7470, add light glitter that’s silver, and a pearlescent of gold. How would I achieve that and which clear coat to go with?
Yeah I’m still trying to get my C10 done. It sure takes a lot of time. If you can find a color on a late model car or truck that is what you are wanting that is a good way to go. There should be a paint code and formula available for it. If you want to tweak the factory color you will have to find a competent painter in your area that can alter the formula, give you some spray outs to look at, and document the formula so it can be made again if needed. As far as clear coat, there are tons of choices out there. Again I would discuss it with whomever is going to paint it. I am partial to PPG’s Vibrance 5700 or DCU 2021. Both are great clears that buff well and last a long time. Thanks for watching Anthony!
Nice job, looking awesome! Question on the little hood piece that sits between the hood and the windshield, can you remove it without removing the finders?
I have a 1966 C-10. The body has been completely disassembled and all parts have been sprayed with epoxy and now in primer surfacer. My question is should I reassemble the body after blocking and paint or paint the parts then put it together. My concerns are with the body lines being straight and then the bolt heads being chipped from wrench during the process. Any advice on this? Also thanks for the videos. They are well done and have been a tremendous help.
It's a back and forth process. I usually align everything the best I can before I take it apart. If there are new panels I put them on at the beginning to be sure they fit if I have them. Sometimes you don't know until after blasting what is good and what needs to be replaced. Once everything is blasted and epoxied it has to be reassembled to make sure the body lines line up and if sheet metal (rockers, cab corners, etc..) need replacing they have to be lined up with adjacent panels to make sure they fit. It's like everything depends on everything else so it has to be put together and taken apart multiple times to get everything right. Once all the bodywork is done, everything lines up, and it has been primed for the final time, then I prefer to disassemble everything, paint, and reassemble for hopefully the final time. As far as the bolts, some people replace a lot of them with stainless or paint the bolts apart and try to be careful when installing. Stainless isn't usually very strong so they can't be used everywhere. Chipped bolts just have to be repainted on the vehicle in the end. I think they make some sockets that are lined with plastic to reduce scarring on the bolts but I've never used any to know how well they work. Thanks and thanks for watching!
Could you break down your clearing technique a bit for me? I have done a few paint jobs now and things turn out well. But I am noticing you seem to go about twice as fast than I do, and cover the same spot almost 4 times. If I left my gun set the way it is - I’d have big problems. I’m looking at 15:02 in this video specially. It seems you have a lot less material coming out than what I set up as, it obviously works well for you. Is this one of those things where you can turn the material down when using a nicer gun? Or am I just using way too much material. I’m using a 3m Accuspray gun now, but wouldn’t mind investing in a gun for clear - any suggestions? Thanks for all the work you put into this channel. I don’t know where you find the time! It’s as polished as your paint work.
@@StoutCustom the 1.3 tip was a no go, ended up using the 1.4. This is on the 26580 accuspray. Using PPG Production Clear. My projects have all been black paints, with the exception of my dad’s Expedition I repaired - it was silver….so I have always been of the mindset that I don’t need high dollar clear since it is on top of black. But maybe that is a bad mindset to have?
@@gregorylaughlin1470 I haven’t used the accuspray yet but I’ve heard good things. Should do the job. There is a lot to spray technique so I will try to cover some of it in a video shortly. Lots to discuss on it
At 6:30 you discussed the final sanding before red nylon pads, but it that a short stoke DA with 5/16”, interface pad and 400? Or a regular DA with a 1/4” orbital action? I have both after buying a short-stoke DA. The 35 year old Blue Point still works hard as I oil it when done and wipe and clean 3 times when reusing. Just curious. Thanks Jim.
I believe it’s the short stroke. Been a long time since I’ve looked or bought one. I think it’s more of a finishing da than aggressive style for filler work.
@@StoutCustom Exactly and works with hook & loop 1000 grit wet to sand quickly to reduce orange peel. Then 3k and up. They stuck me at the last tech bays by the doors but next the body shop. One thing caught my I that could help if a problem, the they put a contractors bag over the paper/tape dispenser to keep it clean when sanding or general clean up. As everything become so expensive it helps to have clean tape to not waist paper as well. This was something I saw in one of the videos today. Passing it along as it sits a longtime until you need it. They rolled up the big bag, folded it and put a wooden clothes pin throwing onto the bottom tray to have when needed. I really enjoy the older 68 C10 Show Truck build and painting the cab back stripe on the 86 square body. I am partial to the 67 as like my first truck. I’ll keep watching!
@@StoutCustom Thanks Jim. I am in awe of the painted trim on the cab back of the square body. It turned out looking great. I have two hours of practice on my air brush. Like a piano, practice. Thanks for the quick lesson on shading!
Probably needs media blasting to remove the rust but be careful on the hood they warp easily. May just need to replace the hood. Once it’s in bare/clean metal, apply epoxy primer, work the dents, high build primer then sand and paint. That’s the basics
You can use a water based cleaner after sanding to wipe it down and clean it off or you can wash the vehicle with a good detergent soap. I use dawn dishwashing soap sometimes. Just don’t use a car wash soap with any kind of wax additive in it.
What exact color is this black I just got my first c10 a couple days ago it's a 86 and I'll be doing the body and painting myself and what you have Is exactly the color I want for mine
Looks awesome brother!! Were you using a Sata 5000 or 5500 for base? Im guessing the WS400 for clear? Do you like the 1.3 or 1.4 tip for clear? I use a Tekna Prolite for base coat. We spray RM Onyx HD (water) and use Glasurit clear. But i struggle a tad bit with peel/texture in the clear...Tried a Tekna clear coat gun, my Prolite, LPH400, now im using a W400 but still not 100% happy. Im already reducing it at a 3:1:15% ratio, so i cant really thin anymore, or atleast i dont think i can. As soon as this Covid19 pisses off, i want to demo the Sata 5500 RP. Just want a good gun that atomizes the HS clears well and lays it on slick without much peel. Ive adjusted so much on my technique that its making me feel like a rookie again! Lol I hate spraying out of my comfort zone.
splash Thanks! I used my old SATA 4000 hvlp for the base. It’s always been a great gun. I cleared this one with a WS400 Supernova with a 1.4HD tip. I also like clearing with a SATA 5500RP with the 1.4I set up. Give either of those a try. The 5500 gives you the choice of I or O nozzle too. Ive found that if I’m painting a lot of cars as quick as I can (production), I lean towards the SATA with the traditional or “O” set up. If I’m not trying to go fast, I lean towards the Iwata guns or the SATA I nozzle for clear. I think the reason is that traditional SATA has a more rounded clear application profile when viewed from the side (🔫 vs the SATA ”I” or Iwata having a very straight clear application when viewed from the side [🔫. So...when I’m in a hurry, I don’t have to concentrate as much on my gun to surface angle with the SATA as I do with the Iwata. The rounded pattern is more forgiving than the very straight Iwata. All are great guns.
@@StoutCustom Il have to try a Sata soon! Last time i sprayed with a Sata it was a 3000...Long time ago, but i really liked that gun! You think the 1.4 is better than 1.3? Is this for speed, or do you find it wets out better?
@splssh. For the clear I use most often, I like the 1.4 I. The 1.4O seems to put out too much material. Check with your paint rep and see if they have a demo kit so you can try the different nozzle sets. The clear you use and your style of spraying play a huge factor too.
