Thank you for this video, going to pick up some zip ties before I start this job on the weekend… doesn’t look to hard but still like to look at videos before I jump on a job in the garage
Thanks for mentioning the notch in the rear plates. I happened to notice that when reinstalling the shocks. It took a bit of searching to figure out if it mattered (it does) and which direction it should be facing (front). For the ~6mm square bit on the top of the front shocks: mine were corroded, PB Blaster, heat, air impact, electric impact, and just about everything else did not let me remove the nut. I wound up buying a Lisle "shock absorber removal tool" (about $8.00 at O'Reilly) which is a square socket. Put that on the end of the shock, insert wrench through the side from the wheel well and on to the nut, and everything worked. Great video! (I didn't want to slice up the OEM shocks in case I needed them later, which I did.)
Of course I have something 'special'. In the middle of replacing mine and the first shock (driver rear) has a harness attached. I assume for 'track mode'? I wonder if this will cause a code to trip. Having known this, I might have put stock back on. We'll see... '08 LT3 package I believe. It has a magnetic ride control. I left it unconnected. We'll see. Read where I will need to use a Tech2 diagnostic tool to disable the F45/55 option that manages the ride performance. It does ride much better. Three of the four shocks were shot.
great video, thank you!. Just a few tips, if you don't want to cut the shock boot to hold with vice grips you can use a Lisle shock mount tool and 15mm box wrench. I HIGHLY recommend a ratcheting one. Doable with non-ratcheting, but time consuming. Also, 24mm socket for the rear lower shock bolts. I'm doing Delrin bushings for the CAs and AMT camber bolt kit / UCA stud kit at the same time, no need to compress and hold with zip ties if you remove the 4x UCA bolts on each side.
Kevin, The Zip-tie trick worked really well. I did all 4 Bilsteins on my 05 Z51 C6 on a Sunday afternoon. Took it to the alignment shop on Monday. Drive great again. Thanks for that tip!
The fasteners should be tightened until the bushing expands (bulges) to the same outside diameter of the metal washer. About 10ft/bls max. Here is a link to some instructions. gabriel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Gabriel-HD-Tech-Bulletin-Shock-Installation.pdf
Best shock install video on uTube! Thanks! Would you have any comments on choosing between the Bilstein B8 and the B6 for a 2010 C6 Base? Nevermind....figured it out. B8 is a short B6.
Did you go with some bilsteins on your 2010 base and if so how do you like and did you change your sway bars? I'm trying to figure out what to do on my 10..
@@teddydavid2816 Yes, went B6 and really beefy swaybars front and back. Major upgrade to the handling yet not harsh at all. Might do coilovers someday if I keep it long enough.
I did my ZR1 a couple months ago. Mag ride shocks deleted (bought a Tech 2) and went with Johnny O’Connell shocks. I also had to replace my lowering bolts two were trashed no rubber left and the third one was failing. Little more involved lowering and lifting the suspension. Keep up the good job and great videos.
What brand did you replace them with? I am thinking about using stock again. Have read that the Bilsteins are rougher riding. We have plenty of potholes for that... Could you tell any difference in your ride with the new ones? I have read some where they did not feel there was much of a difference.
@@dickmadison9619 hey brotha did you end up deciding on a shock replacement set up? I'm having a tough time figuring out what to do for some for my 2010 base that I just aquired with 70k that floats and flies all over the place over bumbs and such.. I want something nice and controlled with a good mixture of performance and street riding comfort. Not for track but for spirited daily driving you feel me.. Anyway I'm looking everywhere I can on youtube, reddit and corvette forums etc..
