Hey yeah It's Anthony here, mom asked dad and they told me that they are suspicious of the BMS, circuit board or components. Look closely at this area on the cb and test values in that location. Mom says that you must determine if the cells are actually out of specifications. Either use a known good instrument or BMS. Once the the determination is made regarding whether the faults are due to connections harness BMS or Cells then you should replace the faulty components. Mom also says always be thinking that more than one link is failing - be thorough in your testing. 🍺
Your so lucky to live in Australia 30 degrees at Christmas. While I'm in freezing 🇬🇧 No sunshine here. Great video's to encourage me in my solar quest.
Interesting testing and the result leads you into even more testing down the road. With your normal settings and usage you might never notice those weaker cells.
10:15 Thanks for your nerd work and helping me avoid byuing this. 👍SEPLOS still delivering BETA. 🤦🏻♂️ BTW: Just received the top notch MULLER BMS! Thanks again from Germany! 🇩🇪❤️🇦🇺 Guten Rutsch! 😉
What about a video of a Seplos BMS combined with a 3rd party active blancet? Kneeeeee/Powerpaul 16s unit to see how the pack perform. Alternatively Seplos could pull their finger out and build a BMS similar product to the JK BMS which is what I’m after from them. 😊
Hi my friend Andy marry Christmas to you and your family It's time to change pool pump! To much power lost buy one inverter. Always the best videos ever Best regards NIKOS Greece
Awesome as usual Andy. Since I have 4 packs 64 cells when I start seeing 4 cells in each pack being the lowest I will move the cells around so 1 pack will have best cells down to 1 pack having worst cells. I have not taken my cells down past 30% yet. I will in the summer turn off charging on 1 pack find the lowest 4 cells then repeat for another pack. then with 16 better cells turn on charging I will do this until I have them all closest to same as I can. Lots of work but worth it I think.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I didn't say that right 4 of 16 cells equals 64. I need to reread stuff before I post or I could have been tired or too many spats.
You are right i followed your set voltage of 55.2 v bulk charge and 3.45 balance 53.7 float charge now the both 105ah batteries almost balanced and give almost the same discharge current. Thank you so much and keep the good work :) i am
For those newbies watching: Amps for instantaneous, it's the rate of flow; Amp-Hours for energy capacity/volume, eg. 100Ah can be 100A for 1hr or 1A for 100hrs or many other combinations that multiply together. Sometimes high current drain (Amps) or low temperature means you can't use all the capacity, if you slow it down & warm it up you can use a bit more of what's left.
Hi Tim, I have bought a 4 eve cell 100ah battery from china, I am planning to power a small refrigerator , the draw is about 5a , do I need a 100a bms which is quite expensive or can I buy a cheeper lets say 30a bms? Im not sure if its the size of the draw of power or overall battery power for bms spec. thanks
@@MrGunningpeter Sounds OK. The BMS current rating limits max charge & discharge rates. If you intend to charge & discharge 50% rating & warm ambient. 5A should be easy for a >25A BMS. A fridge starting (when motor starts) may need peak current 3x the avg for
I think it will be interesting when the BMS gets a little "smarter" and does things like discharging certain cells more slowly and/or charging those cells faster/to a higher cut-off. Not sure if that would ever be worth it, but in 20 years time I can see a "ultimate" BMS being able to use different cells at different rates, or even know the upper C rate for different chemistries etc. Trivial to do from a programming perspective, possible impossible/impractical from an electronics perspective. Would be awesome for second hand use batteries, you could use them until they REALLY die, rather than "not worth messing with"
you might add a short from 16:00 onwards cause you had explained the alternative pre charging very well. Really usefull for me ! Thx a lot Or you do a separate short pre charge related video you can not really find on youtube cause I had searched before for such a year ago or so like which kind of resistor and how to get the right size depending on what ?
A. How would it behave if you move 6-8 to positions 1-3 or maybe 14-16? It seems like mid-pack batteries go weak first. Rotating them may help them balance. B. Before you do that, you might want to use a small load to bring each battery down to match the lowest or charge just those that are lower (less predictable than a load when I tried) then charge to equalize/desulfate level, then recharge to bulk. Those batteries may be just as strong as the rest. C. A new battery will never balance with old, from my limited experience. D. You know this far better than me, so take my opinion for what it cost you!
Based on initial terminal voltage slump at 47 amps (after about 3 minutes of load), cell #7 looks to be the worst cell. Cell #6 does not look too bad on initial voltage slump. More voltage slump is an indicator of cell aging, which increases cell impedance. I had to use your full charge state for the slump calculation instead of about 50% SoC which I prefer so there might be some discrepancy in slump voltage under load expectations. Most of the cells have about 125 mV of slump under 47 amp load, including cell #6, compared to open circuit rested voltage. Cell #7 stands out with 210 mV of slump indicating more aging. I would expect about 50-80 mV loaded voltage slump for a new 280 AH cell at 47 amps of load at cell equilibrium (3 mins of load current). With screwed down terminal connections, should always check voltage drop from battery post to battery post under high load current to ensure not too much extra voltage slump as read by BMS due to poor battery post connection. For good connections and copper core nickel plated bus bars I would expect about 0.17 to 0.20 milliohm post to post for less than 9 mV of voltage drop @ 47 amps of current. I wonder if cell #6 just got a bit less LFP or graphite material during manufacturing. Might be interesting if its weight is a little lighter than other cells indicating less material in cell. There is a screen printing thickness tolerance on electrode thickness of electrode material spread on metal foil. Thinner electrode actually improves cell impedance, but less material means less capacity unless compensated with more layers in cell wrap.
If I remember correctly he checked the bar codes on these cells last year and figured out they were from at least two different production lots months apart. That would explain the slight capacity difference . I may be remembering wrong though.
Interestng my Hybrid 5.5kw Inverter is currently running with no communication with the seplos bms, and so I am having to manage it myself each day, and once a week I will charge to full. Just waiting to purchase a replacement Inverter looking at the Sofar 6kw hybrid inverter. But Seplos has always state not to mix different battery capacities, so this will prove interesting to see what happens.
Good job & conclusions Andy, & yeah, stick to amps, it wont bust my eardrums. I would like to suggest, instead of replacing any of batt pack 1 suspect cells, use the good cells to swap & replace any signs of suspect cells in ur Battery 2 cabinet over time, which will keep Battery 2 cabinet capacity up, while possibly having no effect on ur test battery 1, capacity wise, other than what has already been lost, any cell that has lost up to 10-12% in degradation theoretically should not really deplete battery 1 any further than it already is.
Idea for precharging: just put two 1K-resitors inline, each on + and -, flying into the Anderson connectors (temporary), then remove them and connect normally.
I would consider replacing/regrouping if the worst cells are 90%. If the load & use doesn't need maximum SOC, I wouldn't worry too much. If you have multiple sets of the same original capacity/chemistry then you could try to regroup them better. But as you said, you will always have a difference between best & worst with the rest spread between. But as you all know, staying away from 100% charging & 0%SOC discharging as much as possible has many advantages. Unbalanced cells are less of a problem using approx 10% to 90%SOC together with a BMS.
A C10 RCBO should not trigger at 11A, even if it is running on this constantly for a couple of hours. C rated breakers are usually used for higher loads like motors. B breakers trip earlier, that's why they are mostly used for lighting and socket circuits.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia you need to charge for a long time. I don't know the factor from the top of my head but I can look it up in one of my books or on wikipedia. but I think it mus almost take a day
Dear Andy, the reason why the passive cell balancing system of your batteries are unable to perform their job properly is because you are not charging your lifepo4 cells properly. The energy nedded to make a variation of 1mV at around 3.4-4.45V is a quite big energy. The same 1mV require much less energy if you balancing the cell at higher voltage, like 3.55V. At that voltage level, the passive balancing system of Seplos BMS is doing his job perfectly, you do not need any additional active equipment. Not only, there is no documented evidence that lifepo4 cell are going to degradate fastly while charging it at 3.6V instead of 3.4V. Pylontech, which has an excellent know-how in lifepo4 battery production, are setting their BMS to charge at 3.55/3.60V per cell. Think about it.
Yes, that is correct. BUT, even at over 3.6V, the BMS does nothing. These few mA it balances are not able to cope with these high capacity cells. I did many test and left the battery sitting with very high voltage (over 3.6V) and a power supply connected for 24h and the deviation actually increased. Neither Daly, nor Pace or any other BMS with such micro balance currents is able to get the job done. The QUC BMS had at least 200mA passive balancing but still had trouble to balance a 16s LFP battery over 24h and only had very small success. Well, high voltage introduces higher degradation. It's the same with Li-ion cells and charging them to 4.2V all the time. It's within their specs but it's better to charge them to 4V only. Hence the recommendation to charge an EV to 80% only on a daily base With LiFePO4 it is different and we can already fully charge the battery to 99.5% at 3.45V with letting them absorb. And, not sure about your Pylontech comment. There are many unhappy customers out there and the service and assistance they provide does not seem to be great. I cannot judge here as I have never tested them and probably never will. Their 15s system is not compatible with my 16s installation.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Hi Andy, as per my experience, once all cells are balanced charging them all together in parallel, then the seplos passive balancer do an excellent job ! Maybe you have an inconsistent set of cells. Pylontec is producing their batteries (bms an cells) declaring a certain degradation only related to the cell's temperature (optimal at 25 celsius C) and charge/ discharge current (suggested
Once more very interesting test. First an observation: If you notice when measuring balance current, it seems to go to 200mA and then it drops (looks like 160mA) and goes back up. That means that the balancer only runs part time. You need an oscilloscope to see what the duty cycle is. Just a note for reference: On the typical Daly BMS it is 20%, on the Typical JK it is 25%. So here I expect it to be 30% ??(hopefully better, hard to tell with your DC current meter, which are notoriously inaccurate for low duty cycle). I would measure it with oscilloscope& current clamp. Anyhow, the net average balance current will be much worse than advertised (say 30mA for this setup **not** 100mA). (for example, 6mA on you average 100A Daly (if it works). Ouch). And the only thing that really counts is the average. Second, If you have a balancer that actually works, like you do here, you must give that balancer time to work. That is actually relatively easy to do- just apply the lower voltage you started with until the cells are balanced (3.45V*16 is ok). The lower voltage avoids HV disconnects and still works ok. All you needed to do was walk away before you increased the voltage (when the current started to drop). Now, how long will it take to balance? Going out on a limb here by attempting this from observing the video…… I found, for a 100hA cell @3.5V , it takes 1maH to change by 1mV. (very, very approximate) So here you have 300AH cell and 100mV (max to min), so 300maH difference in cell SOC ( very ballpark….). Now, if you actually get 30mA average balance current (assuming 30% duty cycle) you need to walk away for 10hours and you should be balanced. Please note, unless you can calibrate this method for your cells, I expect it to be very, very approximate: meaning the time may be 5 to 20 hours, but, to balance, all you should have to do is walk away with the battery being fed the lower voltage (to avoid HV disconnects) for 10 hours (give or take). Even though it is 10 hours (or even 25 hours…), it is much better than having to take apart the pack and top balance. Or having to wire in a better balancer. Much less work. What you will see is that during this balance time, the ‘charge current’ into battery will drop to approximately the passive balance **average** current of your BMS: In this case the Passive balance current (say 30mA) + the current used by BMS (say 10mA) so you will see about 40mA until your are in balance, and once completely balanced the current will drop to 10mA (or whatever your BMS uses). If you pop on a Heltec active balancer, the same method can be used. I found average balance current will be around 1A (for LIFEPO4 on HELTEC), so the balance would take about 20min (give or take, assuming this same 300mAH imbalance). The current from supply during this balance time will be around 200-300mA using the Heltec.
seems liek a problem of not matchin the same batteries, which you could do if you did lots of discharge testing but who got time for that? still too much variabilities in battery constructoin i guess they all have different discharge rates which screwsup rechargcing in series. A better solution must exists.
Testing pack position would be great if you didn’t have to physically unscrew the terminals of each cell. I wonder if a switching device could make that possible? Maybe a way of rotating the cells via switches when the battery is at a low SOC and not being discharged/charged.
jk has more powerful balancing. also problem in the seplos bms. 160mA balancing is not enough at all as we know. battery always unbalancing when charge and discharge with high current
I’m waiting for my SEPLOS bms to arrive; I cannot believe the 0.2V vs 0.02V inconsistency between phone and pc apps, if this is wrong, what else could also be wrong (and dangerous)?
Hey Andy, I have the 135ah Seplos but the BMS reports it’s only 100ah! How do I change the value or doesn’t it matter or incorrectly labelled? I have tried setting via battery monitor ( logged in ) but the parameter doesn’t change. It also reports max charge rate of 50a while my inverter can do 100 and is set to 80a but no matter max charge is 50a in practice. BMS setting ?
yeah, it would work! I have tested with my smart bms on my ebike because I don't have a physical switch so I use the BMS switch and it removes the spark connecting a live battery to the ESC just like the inverter does!
I love the idea of leaving the defective cells in the pack. I haven't experienced this yet in my installations and am very curios to see how they hold up. I'd love to see them take some abuse. Can they handle 0.5C? How about 1C? Keep up the great work Andy!
They are not defective they are just a little lower capacity . I think they were from a different production lot. This is why it is important to get a set of cells from the same production lot to build a pack with .
@@onthelake9554 I agree that cells should be from the same production line, and I would go further and say produced from within a day or 2 of each other too. "Defective" is a matter of semantics, if I received cells that are more then a month old when they ship from my supplier I would be suspicious. If I received a cell that didn't meet my 0.5C capacity test, I would consider it defective irrespective of it's age. To me, these old, obviously deeply used cells are defective. I would really love to see how they stand up to the tests I've mentioned. Even if only for a short time instead of the start to finish 0.5C tests I put my cells through.
@@boatelectricaldiyI think they were actually a couple of years old when he received them as new A Grade cells, with some cells production dates several months apart, he has done several videos covering this topic of what you can expect when buying ‘A Grade Cells’, at the end of the day, EVE does not sell it’s EV Grade Cells to the public unless you buy an EV with their cells in it, at best an A Grade EVE Cell would mean it is a failed EV Grade Cell, which is not to say that it is not a very fine cell, its just not EV Grade, and some will be worse than others. I specifically asked for 16 cells to be delivered altogether, I got 12 cells and then the other 4 cells three weeks later, the 1st 12 were all good, 3 cells of the last pack of 4 were suspect &/or bloated.
Good job & conclusions Andy, & yeah, stick to amps, it wont bust my eardrums. I would like to suggest, instead of replacing any of batt pack 1 suspect cells, use the good cells to swap & replace any signs of suspect cells in ur Battery 2 cabinet over time, which will keep Battery 2 cabinet capacity up, while possibly having no effect on ur test battery 1, capacity wise, other than what has already been lost, any cell that has lost up to 10-12% in degradation theoretically should not really deplete battery 1 any further than it already is.
@@evil17 I have addressed the capacity and age of cells in the second comment on this thread. I too watched Andy discover this. It's true that EVE does not sell to the public if they want 16 cells for their DIY solar project. They do however sell their highest quality cells to whomever will purchase in the bulk amounts they offer. Priority is always given to their big customers, this is normal business practice for every business. My business buys from a supplier that buys straight from EVE and all my cells are top notch and exceed their classified AH ratings under a full 0.5C discharge test. After initial balancing they stay within 0 to 5 mv of each other even if being discharged at 1C. My cells arrive unbloated, and I use a fixture to prevent future bloating. I have received cells in the past that were bloated, they passed my tests, but I consider these detective too as they will have a shortened cycle life. My supplier is aware of my standards and makes sure to adhere to the terms of the contract we've made. If you use Alibaba, and make sure to address everything you consider unacceptable in your contract, you too will receive quality cells instead of old bloated ones because you will get your money back if the seller does not honor the contract. If a seller is selling used bloated cells, they will not agree to the terms you've put forward. In your situation it sounds like there is room to seek restitution if you used Alibaba, and put your terms in the contract and not just in chat with them. Did you put it in the contract? They will often delete your terms, send a new contract, and you will have to write the contract again. I hope they didn't snag you with this. It's a common tactic suppliers will use unfortunately. I hope you are able to have your defective cells replaced.
Hi Andy, great job, love your videos which are so helpfull for DIY. I have two Seplos cases with 16s 280Ah cell sand 200 A Seplos BMS. I want to add each box with a megafuse in the distributor. What do you recommend, 200A or 250A fuses? Cable is 70mm
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaone distributor is for 3x Multiplus and the second distributor is for the batteries but no shunt in between. Do you recommend a Victron shunt in addition to the Seplos BMS?
@@ulrichvoneichstedt4124 No, that won't work. You can only set either a Smart Shunt or the BMS as the point of truth in the Victron system. I'm not convinced the Seplos BMS is the right choice atm...
9:40 cells at 24C but a few days ago, the garage was hot. cool this day? large temp swing in australia? 15:02 "..balancer, balancer... " yeah . . . nothing to brag from a measly 100ma balancer.. 23:20 not happy the whole pack degraded simply because a few cells degraded :( How about parallel 5~10AH cell with these weak cells? That should effectively increase the "combined cell"'s AH higher. That should slightly balance the whole pack (in terms of AH capacity).
Hej Andy tak for din orientering din gode produkt undersøgelse a++++ HO HO . jeg har også konstateret på batterierne i yder punkerne. jeg har prøvet at bytte den værste batteri med den bedste i sættet, jeg synes det var positiv, men hvor længe ?????
Yes, more education, I have done 3 full cycles on the 135AH mason and still not calibrated, can you show how to do the BMS settings on the old BMS version that is not BT?
Not in correct video but is it ok iff batteries are close to equal voltage to use plummer's strapping to equalize the cells instead of buying extra buss bars or making jumpers?
Hi Andy, is there any video you made for passive and active balancing? and explaining pros and cons. I notice one of your video, you explain the disadvantage of seplos BMS, which does not have passive balancing feature. Seplos team introduce new BMS with passive balance with Bluetooth communication for mobile app. If you have time, can you make video for it
I think he has made quite a number of videos & tests regarding passive and active balancing & passive&active combined balancing, with the results & conclusions, go back through some of his vids.
If you were going to put the battery online, what if you were to add the Neeeeeeeeeey to the battery bank and then leave it. Is this a battery capacity test or a balancing test. I think you would have got the 280AH if the balancer didnt lose control of the three packs.
I would estimate about 1 amp hour increase per hour of discharge during the test. Andy's test was about 50 amps discharge so it took about 5 hours. So 5 amp hour increase or about 2-3 percent increase. The slower the discharge the more capacity. I think having an active balancer working all the time would possibly cycle the weak cells more and they might degrade even faster so its hard to say if that would be bad or good to do every day!
After watching this video over and over i have found that the old version (non BT) BMS have different factory settings then you show, sure would be nice if seplos would respond to my emails, old BMS connected to computer shows number 6 at 2.7, 16 at 41.6, 61 at 0.300, 79 at 5. Would be interested to see what your 135AH mason shows on computer program
I really don't understand this.... I wish @andy could see my question and redo the capacity testing. He just got those batteries last year.... why would they drop this significantly
Buon giorno dall'Italia,mi puoi dire che cavo utilizzi per collegare bms seplos 16s 3.0 con PC.Grazie.Ho acquistato il cavo CC-USB-rs485-150u ma non va.Sembra essere specifico per Epever.Consigli? Grazie
Andy, do you know the difference between the Seplos Mason vs Pusung batteries? The Pusung doesn't have the screen, but I don't know if there are any other differences - would be interested in seeing you do a review of the Pusung as well, if that's possible?
So many advertisements in the video have not seen for a long time 😂. Just wondering what was your add settings for this video? Maybe it was because I paused video for 2 times?
Hi Andy, would it be possible to buy off you! (New or used) at least 4x 280 -320ah or similar with a recommended BMS for my camper? As my 2 x 120ah AGMs have nearly died. I have no problem building the battery bank! Just don't have time to wait delivery from China. Love the channel 🙏 Merry Christmas mate.🎄
You don't need to do the pre-charge on the inverter with the Seplos BMS, the BMS has a soft start output feature on by default. Just turn the BMS off, plug the inverter in and power on the BMS and it will do the rest. Also cells 6,7 & 8 are all the ones you have re-studed that are showing the capacity issue.
Yes, that would be another possibility. I have repaired other cells as well. If you watch the older videos, you will see that 6, 7 and 8 had always issues, even with original studs, and brand new.
anyone an idea how to find the right order for the LFP cells once they are measured ? I mean I have 16 cells with 16 results and which should be the first after the terminals, the strongest, the weakest or what ? No one has touched this topic what the results are good for. thx
Hi Andy, The Seplos has pre-charge resistor and a process for connecting without sparks. Works great with my Victron Multiplus II. Why didn't you use that function? Also regarding the balancer. I have 102 Ah cells in my battery pack, My personal tests seems to indicate that it can keep my cells under control with 10 - 12 mV deviation witch is ok for me. Think as you experienced the bigger cells may need more than the internal balancer can provide.
Let me make sure I am explaining this correctly. What if I put 2 cells in parallel to make a 3.4v 560Ah. Then made 16 of these. And then put them into a 16s configuration on a single 200A 48v 16s BMS?
Also, could you charge a 48v battery pack with a 12v charger, assuming you connect the wires at the appropriate locations, first cell positive and 4th cell negative?
Unless the BMS is monitoring, ceasing charge, or triggering balance based on the charge tail current you are wasting your time doing capacity tests, simply because moniting tail current is the only method of determining a cells SOC.
Would it be possible to add small (30Ah say) lifepo4 cells in parallel with 6, 7 & 8 to boost their capacity to get the full benefit of the stronger cells?
@@onthelake9554 They wouldn't be able to go above or below stipulated cell voltage. Fusing them so they don't kill the system if they lose integrity (short circuit) would cover protection - if they go open circuit, no worse off than before.
Test request - Can you test the capacity of a battery that is chilled to 10 degrees F (-12 C)? Give the battery a full charge while warm, then chill it, then do a load test. Some people claim you get less then 50% of the capacity. This is related to cars in the US failing during the recent cold wave. I know Li might be different from LiFeP04, but hoping the results would be similar.
Hi Andy and to everyone, just trying to confirm if anybody is aware of any scams on this channel regarding prize draw for the New Year?? Any information would be appreciated
@@carmichaelmoritz8662 Crack pipe . If you quit drugs you will be more healthy and be in touch with reality enough to realize Andy is NOT a multi millionaire . Clear enough ?
@@onthelake9554 🤣😂🤣👍🤟👌 Highlighted reply OnTheLake OnTheLake 14 minutes ago @carmichael moritz Crack pipe . If you quit drugs you will be more healthy and be in touch with reality enough to realize Andy is NOT a multi millionaire . Clear enough ?
Hi. I have a bit of an issue. My son clicked on calibrate voltage in the monitoring software and now its causing charging issues reaching 100% SOC. Do you or anyone in this post know how to recalibrate? I know the manual says not to do anything under that section, but I really need to get this undone
@@kristjanaiaste The Neey works good at keeping the cells balanced but not as good as a dumb active balancer does at extending capacity of the weak cells. imo and Andy's opinion, an extra 1 or 2 percent capacity is not required because 5 amp hour more on a battery that has 250 amp hour is just a little bit in the grand scale!
@@kristjanaiaste Yeah, Heltec 5A active balancers work super great because they balance all the cells at the same time! I think the Neey does too if I recall correctly so if you have that no point in getting a Heltec.
Hello Andy, again a wonderful video. Thank you very much for it. Would it be possible for you to post the settings from the BMS from the computer software on your website? I would like to compare a few settings. I use the 10C BMS 200A from Seplos and there Victron shows me something strange. When I set the charge current to 140A or 160A for Charge overcurrent Protection, Victron only shows me 76.5A. I have my BMS connected via CAN. Maybe you have the possibility and time to test the two BMS versions 10c and 10E with the same values on the Victron system. That would be really super. Thank you very much.
Hi, If I remember correctly it is the charging overcurrent warning value -10A that is sent to the Victron as CCL Value. So If that is set to 100A the CCL sent to Victron is 90A. At least with the 2.8 FW . It has changed with different FW. My BMS is a 150A 10C
@@tx75e94 Thank you for this tip. But somehow this statement does not fit with what I see here in the system. After I set the charge current to 280 A, I see in the Victronsystem at the charge current 140A and that with a FW 2.8 of Seplos. The question is, is this a problem in the 10C version or also in the 10E.
@Off-Grid Garage that ls what I would have figured, I got an email back from the seplos engineer and he states that I should never go above 57.6 volts or I could damage the BMS
Anyone - I have bought a 4 eve cell 100ah battery from china, I am planning to power a small refrigerator , the draw is about 5a , do I need a 100a bms which is quite expensive or can I buy a cheeper lets say 30a bms? Im not sure if its the size of the draw of power or overall battery power for bms spec. thanks
Andy, there is still someone still using your copyright logo and your RU-vid channel for spamming to do telegram something. This is not fare to you and your Fine channel here on youtube.
It's not just here ,it's every channel on RU-vid . I can't believe You tube can't get a handle on this , I hope all the creators are giving them an ear full.
10% is fine, for all those reasons, the others could be 5% down so even less gains for swapping. PS, very annoying that when you connect, or reconnect a smartshunt to the cerbo is sets SOC to 100% ... Grrrr
I have recently noticed in the victron app on android, there is a toggle item in battery settings for *battery starts synchronized* "battery SOC after a reset will be 100%" that is on by default. Perhaps unchecking it would solve this issue? I haven't tried it yet though.
@@mk96lx cheers - not got app as I've a BMV 700 with monitor/gauge - couldn't see anything in the setup but its clunky on this model. Hopefully once fully setup it wont matter anyway - just playing around with the Cerbo/VRM as its new to me. Sync'd again at 100% and doing in impromptu/non constant discharge capacity test with my 3 year old cells :)
So how many amp-hours would the balancer have to discharge in order to reduce your top balance from 90mv to 10mv? My BMS has 5ma resistors so it takes my smaller pack 1-2 weeks to get balanced, but it does do it without me having to manually do anything, just super slow balancing?
@@uhjyuff2095 yes it's possible, but to know the amout of mAh to reduce 90mV you have to define the voltage of the cell, for exemple 90mV is far more mAH @ 3.3V than @3.5V or 2.9V.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia... Thank you. I will watch you on youtube. :) You do good content. I think about purchase from Seplos and you videos is very informative.
