during covid im doing charity bike repairs for people in my area, ive watched the entire tech tuesday playlist and its been awesome help, keep up the great work park tool and ive definitely bought some park tools from watching this playlist!
Can u help me then please I bike to school and now my rear wheels are wobbly now i have to walk to school. I would have tried fixing it myself but i don't have and tools and i don't have any money to do so.
@@treasureaugustus7043 sounds like your rear wheel could be bent or the quick release axle could be loose, take it to a bike shop and explain your situation
hahah, I just did two broken axels today at the bike shop I work at, these were some great tips! Also I didn't even know it was possible to snap the front axel but hey someone did it! 😂😂 You guys are the best!
At the cleaning process I was afraid you put the old cones back. After an axle broke everything goes in to the trash. Except the hub of course. Very good video again btw.
The cassette hub was the best innovation ever. I used to bend and break axles every few years. As they added more cogs to the freewheel this got worse and worse.
I appreciate your videos and fully support your products. I have used many Park Tools at home and in the shop (among others) and have always found every single Park Tool to be spot on, except the air chuck on my INF-1. That being said, I would have liked to see this done as one video. I know content is difficult to create, but the information would be far more useful as one video. Cup and cones are a pain for the inexperienced that may be using the video as an informational too.
0:41 bingo‼️ that’s why I’m here…I knew it wasn’t the rim…the whole setup was new an alternate pair for “mountain biking” on my hybrid with cyclocross tire…now I need to loo up some parts
I have a entry level hardtail and the hubs are the worst part. When you "compare" them to a DT180 EXP it's like the Zambian space program compared to NASA
Kazak Thranduil adjustment and reliability are synonymous with repairs bro, which like I said is easy. Fresh grease and a tighten and it works like a dream usually unless the races, cones and bearings are shot. As for rolling resistance, maybe it’s worse? But the laws of thermodynamics DO say that a louder hub is a resistive hub
I just had to fix this last week on my 2019 Giant Rincon (entry model freewheel and rim brakes) 10 months use about 4600 miles of use mostly sealed roads & dirt roads...... where I am I can not get new cones and the bb's looked ok so they are all back in until I can go get some new bits delivered.. (I got a solid axle in for now)... the same problem occurred twice with my last bike a GT Aggressor from about 2014. .....with the Giant I only noticed a slight wheel wobble .....oh and the bottom bracket has a little play in it now oh well.... ,
For me, if the cones are shot, i replace systematically the ball bearing , they cost absolutely nothing and if by bad luck you put back one worn ball bearing it will simply destroy your hub.
That's crazy that they even make a disc hub with a spin on freewheel. I guess non bike people are impressed by disc brakes, but don't know the difference between Freewheel, vs cassette. I'd try to sell the customer a new wheel with a cassette. Explain that they'll keep breaking axles. Otherwise they'll try to hold the mechanic responsible when they break the next one.
@@GeekonaBike A 130 or 135mm hub with a 8 speed spaced Freewheel setup will break axles if You ride even the slightest bit aggressively. A cassette hub has the main bearings out near the ends of the axle on both sides. On a Freewheel hub, the right side of the axle sticks out almost 2 inches without any support.
@@jamesconroy7030 Yeah I'm kind of amazed he didn't mention this "length of unsupported axle" thing -- The breakage pattern is indicative of this limitation of freewheels. I'm sure Calvin knows this but probably wanted to keep his script focused under the assumption that we'll be working with the existing wheel here, but I think it bears mentioning. @Maria Martins Looks like this is a 7 speed freewheels which is where I think freewheels typically topped out (8+ speeds is usually a cassette/freehub setup)
@@chrislukes9037 I looked on eBay, and they do have 9sp thread on freewheels. 7, 8, and 9 speed all have the same spacing, so it won't matter as far as breaking axles. But it's just another example of cheap bike manufacturers making it look nicer than it is, while cutting corners on what the customer doesn't understand.
I think using a magnet to pull the bearings out is a bad idea. It may magnetise the bearings. It will cause them to attrack ground up metal and other crud before and after they are placed back in the hub.
Often older bikes are worth repairing yourself. But this is not a cut and dry topic, it depends on the quality and condition of the bike you have and the time and money it will take to repair as well as what you want to get out of it.
Some dust caps have a slot for a straight blade screw driver. Some use a hex fitting for a hex wrench. Some use two pin holes for a pin spanner like the SPA-2. And some are pressed in. Look close for one area the is open for a thin screwdriver. Pry it out.
So what was causing the axle to snap? Misaligned wheel, Suspension hand-tail,rough handling, pits cones, weak components, axle, lack or wrong grease creating friction in hub?
With Shimano parts, always start at si.shimano.com. Enter the part number in the search box (sounds like you have an HB-M820) and review the documents. "EV" is the exploded view and parts list. "DM" is the dealer (service) manual. And "UM" is the user manual.
I found a crack in my rear hub on my full suspension mountain bike, and two of the spokes were broken off the hub, I've always been very gentle with my bike, I never take it off road, or do any jumps and I avoid potholes, but I do like to ride it fast and take hard corners at fast speeds, similar to a crotch rocket bike race when they lean their bikes close to the ground, could that cause my hub to crack?
You will need something with 141mm "boost" spacing. Looks like some of the bigger hub manufacturers are making it. Its not super common so availability is going to be limited.
I had a customer bring in a wheel because of a dodgy axle. He had dismantled it, axle, locknuts, cones, seals... even went so far as to punch the cups out of the hub shell! Brings in just the wheel, no axle or cones or locknuts, with the cups sitting loose in the hubs and asks "Can you fix it?" No branding on the hub, no model numbers, nothing. He seemed quite certain a good bike shop was able to take care of this, and wouldn't really take no for an answer.
This really does sound like a chain skipping issue. The chain skips so fast its almost impossible to see. We have been trying to get it on film and its hard to get footage slow enough to even see the blur of it skipping.
1. Stop backpedaling. If you backpedal, your front chainring becomes the derailleur, especially if you ran the chain diagonally before, which you should also avoid. 2. Check your chainline.
It might be a shorter Chainstay length, it might be a newer system (10- vs 7- or 8-speed), where the manufacturer wanted to enhance shift performance under normal conditions, aka pedaling forward, but just watch this Tech Tuesday video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iySpqZkld2k.html, where Calvin jones answers exactly your problem, and his conclusion is the same as mine: stop backpedaling.
im optng for total replacement for peace of mind sake my front wheel nice and quiet rear wheel has copious amounts of play (if i tighten more the wheel will lock) issues first arised within the first year rebuilt it problem gone 2 years later and a bikeshop visit later they are reccomending i replace my rims(wheels strugled to hold true and spokes felt ilke spaghetti) wheel flex is also pretty annoyin so something stiffer is in the books i ride an odd branded bike as in i cannot find the brand online thick alloy tubing all round (i compared the thickness by going to a bikeshop and tap testing on the downtube with my fingernail listening to the pitch) so i want to get atleast a few more years out of this frame as either my personal bike or the bike ill loan to my friends if needed its flippen heavy though
There is nothing you can do, practically. Cups are not available as a replacement part. A new hub is needed, or just ride it. Once there is a pot hole, it will only get bigger.
Calvin...I assume you work only for Park Tool, right? So who's bikes are these that come to you needing service? Do you guys look for parts that need work or are these bikes from Park Tool employees? And has anyone talked to this particular bike owner about replacing that tire???
I have cracking noises in my bike think it's from the rear hub it only present when I cykling and peddling I can feel the cracking thru pedals and up thru my saddle can't find any other places it would Come from. I've replaced bottobracket bearings. I'm close to throw my bike away
Creaks can possibly come from rear hubs but it is not common. A few things to check is that your quick release is tight, your pedals are tight, and the crank bolts are all tight. If you can feel it in the pedals it tends to be a crank or bottom bracket creak. The rear hubs do not cause enough movement when they have issues to feel it in the crank.
@@parktool thanks everything is tightened but I felt the freehub housing is little to lose and when move it by hand slowly I can feel the ball bearings. So I'm gonna change the body. It's not creaking it's more like snapping or small banging but thanks for your input
labour for what? replacing an axle? thats an extremely easy and non-time-consuming task. i charge $15 CAD (11 usd) to replace an axle with new bearings. ( not incl axle)
if the hub was damaged, depending on what price you could get a new hub for and what price you could get a new wheel for, the labour for relacing your old hoop to a new hub could be close to the cost of a brand new wheel.
Шарики нельзя менять местами, потому что с каждой стороны они прикатываются по разному, в следствии чего износ чашек, конусов и самих шариков с каждой стороны разный.
I have a question, So I just recently picked up a 2021 marlin 7 and when I get into first and second gear a part of the bike starts to rattle and I don’t know what it is. Can you guys help?
If you’ve ’just recently…’, then take it back and get the vendor to sort it out. Obvs a manufacturing or assembly issue. Should be covered by a warranty.
@@themoodyteam yeah, isn't there a tune up for new bike still? I mean you're _supposed_ to take it back after a week or something anyway to take out cable stretch and stuff
As stated above you may want to take it back and see what the shop says. Another common rattle is spoke protectors. If not setup right they can rattle quite a lot.