Moser, just wanted to say how incredibly useful these videos have been for my upcooming van build. Some of the best vanlife content I have seen on any platform. Thank you so much!
I know im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
Welcome back! You were definitely missed. Your videos are so well structured and informative. You are single handedly making builds better! We will def buy through your links! Thank you!
I purchased a lot of 8020 for my upcoming camper van build. I was aware of thermal break, but it is nice to get reminded that I need to think about that during build. Thanks.
Fantastic as always! I honestly wish we could just chat over coffee about everything in this video - it's tough to have a comprehensive discussion about insulation dynamics in the comments section. But you clearly applied sound analysis to every step of this process, thank you for communicating it all so clearly and thoroughly. It's a real boon to those of us still at the planning stage.
that was pretty good. as for sound deadening material there are places where 100% coverage is preferable - the rear wheel wells. cover the outside as well as sections inside the wall. just like thermal bridging, sound also travels through the sheet metal. so adding thinner 50mil on the metal around the wheel wells, on the inside areas helps. if you are only building out to plastic panel walls vs a full interior stopping the noice as much as possible inside the walls counts. spray foam also works really well, though its super messing to apply. it will help for both and it may be owrth just having the interior sprayed by a shop that does this as its cheaper , faster , easier than DIY.
Very nice video series! Excellent and concise tutorial. I want to see what you did on the roof with the 2x4 frame up there. I am trying to figure out a very low clearance roof rack system and I never thought of using wood. I'd like to see how you mounted and water sealed up there. Can't wait for the build-a-bed episode!
Very complete explanations! Impressive! You covered and explained very well a lot of issues no one else has done like vapor barrier, thermal bridging, and vehicle insulation choice. Good Job! That is a lot of work!
I know this is 6 months ago so I'm a bit late to this but hope all is going okay with your mum. Tell her your RU-vid viewers are sending her our love. You seem like an absolute gent and are a very helpful lad to many with your videos. Take all the time you need to focus on your family. All the best x
Wow, thank you so much for letting us know about the extruded aluminum thermal bridging. I had planned on using that. along with coroplast for the cabinets to save weight. Excellent information throughout! New subscriber.
I wouldn't say you need to avoid extruded aluminum, but place some sort thermal break between the metal van wall and the aluminum to reduce the effect. A simple option would be something like a sill plate gasket sold in the big box home stores.
You don't want a vapor barrier in an RV. You want a radiant Barrier. As the condensation forms on the inside too. Then it gets under your plywood floors. Then it creates Mold, Mildew and Rot.....Why I don't install plywood for floors. I use 1/2" Automotive grade High Density Rubber. As there is a reason car makers use it. As it's not just for sound. Then cover that with 3mm reflectix. Seal the seams with foil tape. Then install Pergo Laminated hardwood flooring on top. It's been 6 years of abuse. Still looks new. And I lifted up the rear to see what was under it. It was dry as paper..
The interior vapor barrier is a bad idea. While the material you chose was probably the least problematic of vapor barriers, you'll almost for sure be trapping moisture because of the insulating material you chose. Best way to think of this is you just installed a wet rag in a light gauge steel wall. Without wicking to let this moisture out it will rust out the wall well before its time. This is fairly easy to rectify by drilling some holes and adding some wicking. Do a google search on wicking for steel stud walls to learn more. (I should note that I am an Architectural Engineer). I see a lot of people doing wacky things to insulate vehicles...rv makers (and auto makers too) have been insulating these metal boxes for years and there are many factory tours that show how they do it, no need to reinvent the wheel. That said, you have lots of good info in your video.
And do they have vapour barriers? I think not. I think a lot of this need for vapour barriers is over stated and possibly down right wrong. If you allow the van to have air circulation and vent moist air in the mornings when using it and also while cooking you can avoid most moisture build up negating the need for vapour barriers.
The best choice is either spray foam or a dense foam board. You can use batt insulation but it requires you build the wall correctly so it can release trapped moisture.
@@geh2161 If the materials are compatible (ie Spray Foam and rigid foam) it's no problem. I see installs where they start with reflectix and then layer in a wool insulation, then add a foam...this strategy is just asking for your walls to rot out. Reflectix is a moisture barrier. Put inside a wall createa a double moisture barrier so it will trap moisture. Then the batt insulation works like a sponge to hold the moisture for a long time. Any layer like foam assures moisture stays in a wall. The reason foam works so good in this use is because it doesn't hold moisture.
Great explanation, and very well done installation of the Intello Plus. It's very hard to do with all the curves, twists and turns of the inside of a van. Great work!
For anybody who comes across this (and for Mr. Moses too), if you get a fish tape from Lowes (used for fishing electrical wires) your insulation insertion to the ribs will go much better :)
Sam, your videos are among the best I've seen. Your attention to details and explanations are awesome, and are so helpful in completing my build. Thank you so much for making them!
This is the first video I've seen of yours. Looks like a really nice build you have there - would be good to know the difference in temps outside/inside.
what about thermal bridging? You've got many areas that will bridge exterior temps into the van. This insulation wouldn't work in Canada, where we can get 30 below F and 105 Deg F in one year (Ontario). Maybe for California?
Great set of videos...love the high speed timelapse to cut through the nuance of insulating. Quick question: Isn't there a rubber flapper valve to allow moisture and smells to flow through the vehicle? I believe these are behind the rear vertical taillight assemblies. It would be good to not block these, right?
Hi Sam, I have been watching all of your Transit build videos getting ready to do one myself in 2021. Great job. Not only for the specific subject but overall for presentation, video quality and clarity of explanation. One question - we have spray foam insulation in the attic of our home and it works great. You have mentioned it also although you did not use it. In another video by another van builder, he said spray foam will actually warp the outside skin of the vehicle as it expands leading to ripples in the outside walls of the van. Have you ever heard of this phenomenon? Would like to use it in mine but a little afraid to do so if that's true. Thanks!
It is true. It also has the downside of being permanent..you're never getting that foam out. I'd choose a less permanent insulation and maybe one that's less likely to leech chemicals into my home. Wool based products can be another good choice not discussed here as it handles moisture well given that its a natural product.
Welcome back. Quick question what did you do with the wire harness across the side wall and back? I have a transit that im starting to build out and looking for options. Thanks
Hi great video. Did you spray adhesive on the thinsulate that you placed inside the side door with the locking mechanisms?....or did you place in without. Thanks
What has me confused is that the Thinsulate has relatively low thermal properties but great reflective properties. However, you mention in your next video that you need 1 inch of space for reflective insulation to work correctly. Why did you attach it on the van walls? is the Thinsulate cells providing the reflective spacing?
I thought with 3M insulate you don’t need a vapor barrier it would’ve just been best just to cover up all the holes with the final cover of the insulate which would give you extra insulation plus a vapor barrier all I want it wouldn’t have to worry about the thermal bridging
I don’t understand why people don’t use as much insulation (thickness) as possible. Why leave space inside your walls and ceilings? You don’t do that in any other structure you live in. Heat gain/loss is a function only of temperature differential and the “average”heat transfer coefficient. If you double the R-value over 50% of the surface area (twice the thickness where you can) you will decrease the gain/loss by 25%. Not a big deal in the winter since heating a van is cheap and easy, but cooling a van is a very big deal if using an AC on batteries! !!! ALWAYS MAXIMIZE YOUR INSULATION !!!
@@MoserMakes yea I see what you mean, I have a 12 meter bus that Im working on and Im looking into various ways to insulate. I might do the inside then live one winter in it before deciding on a possible outside solution
I love your presentation style and editing but it would be cool if you added some BG music for your videos. Sending positive vibes for your mom & family.
@@jacquistaben8999 I totally agree, if the production is bad it can be annoying and a distraction... but if done well, I think it helps set a mood and keeps the video flowing. Either way I'll most likely keep coming back to check out future vids. It's good stuff!
"tacky, but not sticky to the touch"? .... huh? .... what dictionary are you using? ---- gotta love it kid, but you could work on your definitions. Also, it might help to think more thoroughly about some things like sealing out moisture, including paying attention to how it will tend to seep through the smallest of gaps, including under heads of fasteners. ---- Good call on many details. Keep at it!
Hey thanks for watching the video and providing feedback on additional considerations for sealing out moisture. I can try and clear up the "tacky, but not sticky" in case it confused anyone else. "Tacky" is the term used by 3M in the instructions on the can (I wasn't trying to make up special words from another dictionary). That was my very condensed explanation of the longer instructions on the can which say that after spraying you need to leave the adhesive "to dry until tacky" and then they include a note stating, "Test for tackiness by gently touching the adhesive with your knuckle. If the adhesive is tacky and does not transfer to your skin, it is ready to bond." So what I meant by "but not sticky to the touch" was that it wouldn't stick/transfer to your hand after touching it. I hope that clears up the confusion.
@@MoserMakes Right on guy! Nowhere near taking on the task of making an instructional video myself (don't even know how to upload), but it's fun bugging people, and I get a kick out of seeing things laid out clearly. Please -- keep up the good work. -- Thanks!!
