The lay-day plan for better weather paid off and the following morning the skies were clear without a breath of wind and packed with balloons. Even before making our way out of the Troopy and well before daylight we could hear it was going to be a good day by the unmistakable roar of balloon burners. The balloon rides started in the region as an alternate perspective of the incredible landscape and has exploded over the years to a year round event of hundreds of balloons each morning, and/or evening when the conditions are right. Adjacent to the ridge we were camping some of the balloon pilots with great skill and precision lowered their basket, and nearly whole balloon, between the rugged walls and down the valley missing the rock chimneys by what appeared to be millimetres. We spent the morning taking in the spectacle before packing up the Troopy and hitting the road. Our goal for the day is the Med though road conditions and possible attractions will determine whether we make it today.
Away from the unworldly landscape of the Cappadocia region the horizon smoothed into arid flat salt plains of nothing but small shrub stretching as far as the eye could see in all directions. In peak summer and winter this region looks like it would be quite unforgiving with nothing for shelter. For that exact reason, in the early years of the Silk Road, places were built to accommodate the travellers along the trade routes. These lodges, otherwise known as Caravanserais, provided a safe haven from the elements. We stopped at our first Caravanserai years earlier tucked deep into the southern mountains of Kyrgyzstan at 3200m near the border with China. Here in Turkey, in an extremely contrasting landscape, we happened to stumble across another Caravanserai of significant stature. This one known as Saltan Han, was built in 1229 and is the largest in Turkey (not easy to miss). Through the huge main gates was a large courtyard, with central Mosque, which provided the usable space for the summer. At the rear of the courtyard was another large door, which we wrongly assumed led to the rear of the structure; it actually led into a cavernous Iwan (inside space) used in the winter months. With the towering vaulted ceiling and thick stone columns, the Iwan was gigantic and could have housed hundreds of people. For now though it was just us and the occupying pigeons. We were amazed at how beautifully maintained the structure was with it’s intricate marble carved gates and ceilings (maqarnas). We usually prefer historic structures and monuments in a more natural original state though this was an impressive and welcome surprise on our daily travel.
After a quick lunch at an adjacent stall, we headed to what was originally to be out first stop for the day - Tuz Golu (salt lake). Lake Tuz is the second largest lake in Turkey and one of the largest hypersaline lakes in the world. We had decided to stop here on our way west in the hope of catching some of the reflections usually associated with the likes of Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia. Being at the end of summer though we were out of luck as the lake had all but dried up for the season. The drive in along the slightly raised road through the salt pans was still picturesque though and reminded us of travelling through southern Western Australia.
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26 авг 2024
