i really liked the video, the spring / compliant pin was really nice, and it is something i need to find a reason to use myself!! i wonder if you considered fixing the wooden handle using 3d printing? like cutting the wooden dowels that broke shorter and adding 3d printed ends. While it would be less interesting than your solution i can't help to like that it would use less material, and how it gives the broken handle a new lease on life. Since your solution uses an easy release mechanism, it would be cool to see you do funky handles for your washing machine, maybe some very fun and not so useful or ergonomic :P
If you have long enough screws, I'd make them pass all the way through the standoffs and screw directly into the main part of the handle, that way you don't have such a thin cross section just to make room for the nut. If you have the tap for that screw profile, that would also probably be stronger than the nut, for the same reason. If you don't, you can modify the screws to cut threads instead of forming them by pushing plastic out of the way, should reduce chance of splitting.
@@strelkomania :D Thank you too for being such a nice and awesome human! It's always a nice day when you upload a video :) I love thinkering, I love engineering, the way you approach and solve problems is really how I want to learn to do stuff. I'm still learning and your videos help me a lot lot lot. THANK YOU!
8:18 3D printing are just not that good at making press fits.😂 But I often make holes undersized and drill them larger. It is a little more work, but I just prefer the quality of the holes.🤔 Another thing I like is to use my soldering iron to push metal peaches into the plastic. The downside being removing them again🤷♂.
I mean no hate, but isn't this a case of major over-engineering? I would've just designed and printed the handle with dowels, as a single piece. Also with holes in dowels for self-threading, instead of nuts (doesn't need to come off and will be stronger). But maybe I missed some design constraint.
her solution is a bit over-engineered (which i love her for tbh), but no, a nut and bolt will always be stronger than a screw threading directly into plastic. pretty much zero exceptions she had to break it up into a bunch of separate pieces because she wanted to maintain the original aesthetic and, as a result, couldn't just print the thing as it was (cylinders and optimal orientation for strength and what not). her solution works. she spent her own time doing it. no harm done
@@6moon.s I'm not even remotely trying to attack anyone here. Just a friendly voicing my opinion. I'm pretty sure that direct threading in this particular case, where the dowel is only a bit wider than the nut would be stronger, if you have enough thread depth. And about dowel strength - the whole piece could be printed laying down with minimal supports under the dowels, or even with dowels at 45 degrees up, which will compensate for smaller bed. In case if dowels don't fit on a print bed, I would've printed them separately and did a press-fit with a bit of some glue or epoxy. Again, that how I would've done it. Just my 2 cents. p.s. I usually over-engineer in other places, like control electronics.
@@x_ph1l printing it laying down would've required support under the entire part of the handle you touch, which would feel awful on the hand without a ton of post processing. it's a cylinder. it has almost zero contact with the bed. what you're saying would be more feasible if the handle were a hexagon or similar.
@@6moon.s honestly both of you are onto something - making those dowel/pegs hexagonal and trying to add threads to it could be worth a shot! thank you for for this discussion and for your good ideas. I like sharing my fixes because of this reason. People in the comments look at it differently !! Although, in terms of making threads, my fear is they wont turn out that well because they are relatively small (m5 i think). Maybe a heated insert would have been better but I didn't have those on hand...
