Not just for random patterns, there should be an option for repeated patterns & all sorts of parts just like the infill. It will enable us to create some really crazy wall finishing.
You can fix the tolerance issue with reducing the xy size compensation by the fuzzy skin thickness. (-0.2 xy size, 0.2 fuzzy skin thickness) this cancels out the external jitter and leaves you with nearly the same tolerance as original
This is another great 3D printing tutorial. Teaching Tech is an accurate name for this channel because the pedagogy is excellent. I wish schools taught this efficiently and excellently. Thank you Michael for this very useful information.
Thanks for showing how to put fuzzy skin on a top surface! I have been using it with modifiers to good effect, but this opens up new possibilities. It would be even cooler if fuzzy top skin was incorporated into the slicer.
I like using fuzzy skin with *very* fine layers, minimal thickness and small point distance. 0.08 mm layers with 0.05 thickness and 0.08 point distance works well, and creates a really nice satin finish. It doesn't make the part feel any rougher than the regular layer lines do, but it does a great job of breaking up the pattern and making the part look injection-moulded. Of course, it's very slow due to the fine layer lines needed to make the effect convicing.
Combining fuzzy skin with point distance of 0.1 mm and thickness of 0.1 along with 0.1 mm layer height and scarf joint seam makes absolutely perfect animal toys, like the Chibimals, as it gives them a light texture and no visible layer lines or seams.
Top fuzzy texture is awesome! You can actually adjust the fit of one part inside another using only the slicer though. In Cura, horizontal expansion, and in Orca, X-Y compensation.
I accidentally discovered this effect a while ago when I was experimenting with the Hilbert curve and forgot to change the filament profile, so I printed with PLA at a 245°C. So instead of increasing the flow, I simply heat the nozzle 30°C above the required temperature to achieve the same effect without changing the flow. And thanks to overheating the visual result was even better. The Hilbert curve also perfectly hides lines on the top surface (as well as on the bottom if you don't use PEI surface)
Very cool technique to add top surface texture. I wish we had an opportunity to simply paint the fuzzy skin exactly same way as we do supports in Orca slicer.
It's weird how there's still no proper texturing for 3d prints. Like, import a depth map, align it on print's surface and it'll emboss a pattern in the part's side. Same idea as fuzzy skin, tugging on extrusions forward and back layer by layer, just deliberately instead of randomly. Texturing is just one thing, it can also be used for text, especially makes stuff easy for date codes and serial numbers as you don't have to bake anything into the STL.
Great tips! I must try fuzzy skin with that top over-extruding technique. 15:06 You wouldn't need to use CAD to fix the fit. You can use a positive (at least in Orca) X-Y hole compensation in the slicer.
Bambu Lab should think about creating a wiki that explains all the slicer’s settings. They could even show example pictures. It would save us having to wonder what each setting did.
Great videos; have learned from and use many of your instructions! It stood out to me that you mentioned the complexity of isolating areas of a print in CAD versus in a a slicer (CAM). I see it the other way round. (Not in terms of fuzzy skin on top--the actual topic of the video--but still.) I use (OnShape) CAD for this: I thin extrude .01 in/mm (doesn't matter) inward from the surface where I want fuzzy skin, then I Boolean delete said extrude from the original. I make the new part fuzzy in the slicer. The "internal" surfaces generally don't matter. As useful as the "outside only" setting is, it doesn't work for every model, especially when multiple print heads/components are involved. My post is a bit off the exact current topic, but THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS, and I hope someone finds this useful.
IVe managed to get some interesting results when slicing in cura vase mode without fuzzy skin by using different extruder nozzzle settings to the revo nozzle sizes I actually have installled, you get a very interesting finish. I did this with translucent slitter filled fillaments for christmas baubles I was printing. 0.4mm nozzle tricked to thinking it was printing 1.2mm extrusions at a setting I had set up for a 0.8 mm revo printing for a 1.2mm thickness. The end result is something that can best be shown rather than explained in words.
Fantastic video!!! I like what fuzzy skin can do for a print but recognized the limitations. These settings open up a lot more options. Thank you for sharing!
Hi 15:10 you can do it in Slicer, just use X-Y hole compensation to make wall inside the hole with offset If the fuzzy skin thickness is 0.6mm, set the X-Y hole compensation to 1.2mmm
Thanks for the video. It's been like a year since I started to print 3D things. And I'm learning some new stuff each day... How magnificent! I recently started to use fuzzy skin on decorative busts; it looks much better. I was using the default settings of Cura, but reducing the thickness and distance made sense. I'll try today for sure.
For fitting fuzzy parts into other parts without CAD work you could try what in PrusaSlicer is called XY compensation. Try setting it to -0.5 when your fuzzy skin height is 0.5mm. I have never used it in combination with fuzzy sking but I have used the XY compensation to make parts slide into parts when they are all scaled down. Parts designed with 0.2mm clearance at 100% size will no longer fit together when printed at 40% size. But if you use the XY compensation on the right ones to increase the clearance that was scaled down then they can be fitted into each other again.
That 5x.1 pattern looks like it would be great for wood like textures, maybe paired with a wood like filament, or just applied to parts of models that are supposed to represent wood.
I've been using fuzzy skin with dense distance and lower thickness to print nice diffuser lamp shades from white or clear PETG for a while. That technique for fuzzy skin on top is REALLY cool! I'm totally going to use that!
And this guide just happen to bereleased when I had a print where I which to have more control over fuzzy skin. Thanks Michael! Now I just have to tune the setting to match to the powdered side of my PEI sheet (it's a threaded round box, since both box and lid have threads, they both need to be printed on the flat surface). My guess would be both thickness and point distance to around 0,15mm.
Brilliant idea, Fuzzy Skin as velcro. At the end when mentioning the loss in dimensional accuracy I thought, "TPU." TPU's flexibility could allow for flexible tolerances and accommodate for inaccuracy, and the increased surface area and imperfect surface might increase grip in a press-fit-closure usage.
I've used the overextrude trick with Hilbert curves for pretty good effect. You can change the shape of the ridges by sanding the nozzle to be more round.
15:00 All you have to do for your fuzzy skin parts to fit is to modify your hole/contour compensation settings. No CAD needed. Of course, it only works on the x/y planes.
@4:50 if you use that aggressive thickness values, you need to set the walls to 1 - since the fuzzy skin will intersect with the inner wall and heavily distort the object - i've tested this extensively (also provided a test block set with different values over on my printables or makerworld profile) so no need for "hoping" it works, it works - just use one wall ;)
Oh, noice!! Try this with the Hilbert Curve and maybe 150% instead of 170%. Try or I will have to, this thing is supercool!! Edit: Damn, I'm a genius. I wrote this when you just said overextrusion, lil i know you would have used exactly the Hilbert Curve feature! (It just looked obv to me given the result to accomplish.)
Not sure why slicers still dont have option to use "fuzzy Z" on top layers, I understand that Z axis is much slower but result could be awesome. Currently for a simpler model, one could make models top surface fuzzy in a CAD software and use nonplanar printing patch for top layer.
Very nice! The fuzzy skin on the teddy bear still looks a little horizontal (I wonder if a higher layer height would help?), otherwise it's perfect! This is really convincing me try it out!
another usefule application is when you wrap the part into fiberglass or carbonfiber. Usually you got to hit the part with 40-80 grid sandpaper and scratch it up really good. Wit h fuzzy skin just take the part and lay up maybe a couple of layers of 1708 or such and top it off with a cloth like 6 or 8 oz. So now you got a strong part with as much FG as you want and maybe a mm or 2 of plastic inside. Dont use PLA as epoxy or boat resin gets warm when it cures. But PETG or ABS or HIPS is a good choice
@@alycapo3391 Noo sanding and wet layup yes. For the settings it depends on what I use. If its just a covering of very thin cloth like a low oz (4 or smaller) cloth then probably send or very little fuzzy. Problem is that some 3dp plastic does not stick that well especially to epoxy based resin polyethylene sticks better. If you go 1708 or 2408 biaxial you can go with default or even bigger for a good mechanical interface. I dont want to go into materials in general as there are differences between the stickyness of different brands of the same type of material So I consider 2 ways of using 3dp for glassing . 1 for molds then you do mold stuff print as smooth as possible, maybe some post processing, wax, release agent etc and maybe a metal backing or thick plastic mostly petg if you use compression or Nylon if you use heat. Or "consumed" molds with fuzzy skin. Lets say I need a mostly l shaped thing that has lets say 5mm thickness thereabouts. I might print a 1mm thick l shaped plastic with fuzzy skin usually ABS as its stiff and hard on a textured bed with fuzzy skin. Then i might wrap it in 2-3 layers of 1700 biaxial to get the thickness u want and then you can top it off with some cloth and maybe even some standard FG/CF surface finish/paint etc etc if needed as now its a standard layup thing. Now the advantage of the consumed 3dp is that you can be creative in shapes and hole placements and creases as long as you can use layup methods and use a roller etc if the part gets too complicated you do a mold. Like I am working on some intricate pieces for a drive train which are being molded whereas some frame pieces might have lay up and cut to size using grinders, saws sanders drills after they cure etc.\
When you do a modifier, how do you make it so the connecting part that is not modified does not have a separate perimeter. The example you showed where you placed the modifier through a hole and it split the hole making a weak joint. Sorry I can't be more clear - I tried all sorts of modifiers to not get this line. Basically what I want to do is go from a fuzzy skin perimeter to a normal perimeter without interruption. Maybe slicers can't do this yet though. The reason I like to use fuzzy skin is for that manufactured look others have mentioned. I am usually using fiber filled filaments to help hide layer lines but am tired of being exposed to those fibers so I started using fuzzy skin on normal non-filled filaments to get essentially the same effect but without the nasty fibers.
I’m running into the same issue. I have a model where there are gaps in the wall and as a result the inside of the model gets fuzzy too. Using a Modifier results in two external perimeters, one smooth and then one fuzzy from the modifier on the outside of the model
The top surface fuzzy skin effect, wow! I wonder if it'll cause any nozzle damage from bumping into the bumpy bits as it goes around, at least for weaker nozzle types? Also, wasn't there some kind of "use an SVG as infill/surface pattern" trick for one of the slicers out there, could that be used to further customize the top surface in some way with a modifier?
Regarding Cura fuzzy vase mode, it worked in older versions of cura, but broke in newer ones. I think there was a bug open for it, but last I checked there was no traction on it.
After you found a match, my first question is whether you could reduce the flow rate on the top for a closer match to a lower fuzzy skin thickness. Of course, with a teddy bear, the larger thickness is more appropriate.
Best way to have uniform fuzzy skin, is to orient the object to have no top layers (borrowed from Slant3D) Now, to tune fuzzy skin to match with PEI plate texture 🤔
Newest Bambu slicer update improves the randomness of the texture per layer. It was already good vs Creality 5.1. now its even better. I do .2 and .2 myself with either .16 or .20 layers for a nice "manufactured" look. And DON'T USE ADAPTIVE LAYERS as it makes the texture look inconsistent.
Can you do a video on which ABS/ASA splices can be used with dissolvable filaments like HIPS? I've heard people say Limonene dissolved certain ABS filaments.
You say you couldn’t get dimensional accuracy with fuzzy skin without CAD adjustment. Have you considered the XY contour reduction setting within the slicer?
05:20 this slicer behavior has always bugged me. is there a way to stop the slicer from applying fuzzy skin on the inside part of the model/modifier? as you mentioned, it creates a very weak bond and makes it pretty unusable for some applications. how did it behave in your model of the handle?
am I the only one feeling that fuzzy skin makes models look worse? I showed some models to friends of mine that were not into 3d-printing and they also asked if my printer was broken or why the walls looked so crumbled. It might be a nice feature for things like grips but I don't see me using this for anything else. IMO having the possibility to add texture like with the Formlabs Texture Engine would be a much more useful and versatile feature to have in a slicer.
Do you, or anyone watching, know of a way of exporting the fuzzy skin texture out? I know it is randomly generated at slice time. But I am doing some pretty complex modifier geometry and using fuzzy skin with that modifier, and there are some specific requirements that I'd like each print to be identical. So if there was some way of exporting the post fuzzied STL out, that'd be awesome... any ideas anyone?
I can't find this "Top surface flow ratio" setting in Bambu Studio. My whole "Quality" tab is missing lots of stuff that you seem to have in there how do I enable it? I do have advanced settings on already.
