Man, I was telling my Dad the other day about one of your videos, and then was trying to explain the channel in general and it cracked me up. It was like "he mainly does autonomous RC stuff, but he restored a Boston Whaler boat, made this crazy printed cyclone separator, made a super powerful underwater LED, made an electric land canoe, etc etc" This has definitely become one of my favorite channels, and I really haven't even messed with anything RC since I was a teenager. Please keep doing weird interesting stuff.
not viable if I may say. It´ll get way to top heavy and unstable, Only option if he really wants the solar above the hull to get shade is to make the boat a mini Tri-catamaran like extensions. Feel free to elaborate and correct me.
@@Patnik86wrong. That boat is plenty big. A small Boston whaler. The actual concern may be wind. But either way using the panels for shade is a great idea.
hey love your videos. for next time, instead of spending ages sanding and smoothing the props, you might want to look into ABS vapour smoothing. By printing a part in ABS and suspending it above some high purity acetone, you can get a part thats as smooth as one cast in resin with very little effort. idk how strong the finished parts are, and ABS is kind of a pain to print in, but it might still be worth looking into
Might be a gamble with ABS. The PETG that Daniel used is a lot tougher, which I think is pretty important in an application such as this. Would kinda suck to crack a prop by getting too close to shore.
in washington state most people on boats wave at each other, doesn’t matter if you’re in a tiny 15 footer or a big 50’ boat people are just friendly its kinda fun
I designed my own wind turbine props and to get the strongest 3D printed setup. I had the props fit into the hub, through male/female slots. That way, I only changed the prop blades instead of the whole prop, and could adjust the pitch angle to find the optimal. Also, I was able to lay the blade prints down on its length, to get the strongest layer direction. .
Since you have the 3D files it would be cool to send them to a manufacturer like PCBway to have them metal 3D printed, they would still need some sanding and balancing but you could make some pretty durable custom propellers!
Why not an overhead solar canopy? (14:30) For camping/cruising an overhead canopy (solar roof) would offer shade, and keep you dry if rains. Would offer at least 50% more solar area. Some used 60-cell solar panels could provide more power and voltage. Another alternative is vertical solar panel that could also double as a wing-sail.
instead of just a single pushrod, you should do 2 pushrods, one on each side of the pivot. Then, there is always one under tension, and you don't have to worry about the compression forces at all. You could even use steel cable instead of threaded rods at that point.
It’d be interesting to see how well you could get a position hold working. Digital anchor. With reversible thrust and differential thrust I’d imagine it’d be pretty good. At least within the GPS accuracy limitations.
Why does water get into closed containers? This is because there is a heating element inside the container. When it cools down, the inside of the container becomes negative pressure and absorbs water.
The Makerbase 75200's are the best price I've found so far. I had the same problem with the flipsky 75100 overheating in my EZTR. @45A they can run continuous, 75A they will overheat. Also added heatsinks. Had to add fans as well.
Much like the rest of the people in this comment section, this is easily my favorite youtube channel. This was on of my favorite videos, I found the little side remarks really funny and cute (houses with boat garage, incoming seaplane, construction workers, college students, etc.). Love how this channel is technical, inspiring, humorous, and just has good vibes in general. Keep on it!
for the props lifting out of the water issue, I used to drive a small boat like this as a kid, I had the same problem but even sitting at the back. We ended up putting extra weight at the back. Your batteries would probably do fine but I think we used our gas tanks and some heavy chains at the time. The boat doesn't really care, it's incredible really how much weight you can carry on the water.
I was watching a superfastmatt video about speed week at the Bonneville salt flats, and one of the EV teams there was running a 98s2p battery. I think you should give that a shot
I get the feeling there might be a bit of crossover between the 2 channels, different categories but similar approaches. Who knows maybe one day we will get a crossover?
Waving at fellow boaters is just a common thing. It's not limited to Boston Whalers. :) Gotta be friendly out on the water, because you never know when you'll need help. When someone needs help on the water, you do what you can no matter what, so I think the waving is just an extension of that. On the water, we're all friends? I've been on the first boat to show up to a sinking boat twice in all my years on the water, and you just do what you can until more help shows up.
1. You need to use really thick cables and, at least, xt90 connector for 100 amps. Thinner cables limit amperage. 2. Try water-cooling ESCs. Or to use water-cooled out-of-the-box ESCs.
If you're having issues with the Flipsky 75100 overheating, consider changing from the ebike, to the aluminium shelled one, the cooling is much better. They also sell a water cooled version that would probably work pretty well for a boat.
The boat wave is a thing. No idea why or what the history is but everyone waves to everyone else. Can be quite funny transiting through high traffic areas where you will get tons of waves
What do you do with a Boston Whaler What do you do with a Boston Whaler What do you do with a Boston Whaler Early in the morning Print up some props with epoxy on them Print up some props with epoxy on them Print up some props with epoxy on them Early in the morning Power the props with a tote of LiPos Power the props with a tote of LiPos Power the props with a tote of LiPos Early in the morning Send up the drone to take some Dronies Send up the drone to take some Dronies Send up the drone to take some Dronies If you do not vomit Forget the footage then find it later Forget the footage then find it later Forget the footage then find it later Upload it to RU-vid
Adjust your duty cycle in vesc throttle settings. It's only reaching 50% by the looks of it. Also check motor current limit and battery current limit settings to get Max RPM. I have played with the throttle curve in natural setting seems to work best with 100% top end offset
From the picture off the VESC tool, you have only 42% duty cycle/ about 20 volts going to the motors. Your propeller is way to big. If you get the duty up to 95% 48V ( max) and still push 100A phase amps you will have 2.2x the power. Is the Amps that generates heat. So if you motors can handle 100 phase amps eatch motor at 46V will make 3740W!.
All of a sudden I find myself wishing I was an embedded systems engineer. Actually, I've always wanted to do embedded systems, but I got a software engineering degree and have been doing pure software ever since. I hope you find your guy and I look forward to seeing the epic things you design and fabricate in the future.
@@Hoffmanpack In the current job market, I think it would be hard to find a job which would pay anything close to what I'm currently making, especially when you factor in that I don't have any meaningful embedded systems experience.
Those VESC 75100s have issues with performance. Apparently there may be an issue with the regulator chips in them which causes them to heat up rapidly. My friend tested 8W draw from the STM chip. An aggressive cooling solution or an electric reverse engineering solution may do the job. Most people I've known to try them cap at 2kW, any higher blows them out. Old video, I know. Kelly Motor Controllers, or other VESCs besides the 75/100 are pretty good options for better performing motor controllers. In the 2-12kW range, I think Kelly is pretty solid. Above 12kW Sabvotron, BAC, and Votol have been pretty well represented. There are some people who make low-production high-performance motor controllers, but they're typically for electric motorcycles.
You spend a lot of time reinventing the wheel, everyday. Mercury Kiekhaefer is a good starting point for efficient legs and props. It is great to watch you mature from models and toys, to usable machines. Painfully slow, best to check in every 6 months or so. The Whaler is a nice little inland waters cruiser. Not much use as a fishing boat or in 15 knot winds. Waiting for you to keep going, scaling your system up?
Idea for cooling. What about a raw water cooling system where you use the water avalible where you float to cool down the controllers, as a outboard will do? This can archive with a small fishtank water pump or even using the movement of the boat to circulate water? Its actually simpler than it sounds, my small rc toy speed boat has a similar cooling system that doesn't have a pump and it works amazingly well and yet simple. It has a ventury nozzle on the bottom the hull to suck the water. Another very inspiring video on your channel
information 2:58 it can be seen that in this sort of application, the inrunner bldc is loaded via mechanical DIS-advantage; over the load that occurs across the swept radius/diameter of the prop. the force produced by a motor is 'created' at the (internal) Radius, where magnets and coils move past one another. the use of an inrunner motor is, therefore, problematic where the load occurs at a radius that is greater-than the radius of the motor's rotor. d
the water maybe from the electrical cable running from your motor the the controller. the magnetic field is pulling the water(minerals in the water) thru the conduct.
13:30 you wont be able to get more power by just increasing the Input voltage. This way you only gonna end up with the same 100A Phase current but with like around 25% duty Cycle. If you want to maximize the Power output you gotta decrease the load on the props by a smaller diameter and/or smaller pitch so that they meet 100A at the highest possible duty Cycle, like 90-95%. And my guess is that you would need around 15 kW to get this thing to plane 😄 ps you can Control the vescs over adc with a normal ebike throttle or just a simple poti. Great work!
As you start to increase the combined battery voltage above 50Vdc, please promise us you will start to take more measures to protect yourself from electrocution!
I love your videos! I just stumbled across you the other day and have watched videos all the way back to a few years ago! I love the nerdy content! Keep up the good work! I’d also absolutely love for you to release a video making a attachment for a underwater drone to clean up trash and things off the bottom of the ocean/rivers. I’m trying to figure out a way to design one that’s more cost effective that can be attached to nearly any ROV. Im taking the CPSdrone class and it’s very fun! I’d like to see you produce something like it in the future with other fun projects!
That's a very good idea - I think a wrist strap is the usual method for surfers, jet skis etc.. but that's inconvenient when you're moving around on the boat doing stuff. A bluetooth wristwatch kind of solution could work if the BT watch signal is lost then the motor stops, or turns around to find you.
If you top out your motors to 100Amps, spinning it for higher RPM will require more Amps, increasing voltage will not help. You may want reduce propeller pitch, or size, or both to let motor to rev it higher, and then you 'll hit your 100Amps current at some higher voltage, with higher power. But keep in mind, that going too far away from 0.7..1.4 diameter to pitch ratio will decrease efficiency, so hawing it consume more power does not necessarily mean you will have more speed.
If you're maxing out the phase current, that means you need to increase the RPM, because the back-EMF generated by the motor is proportional to the RPM, and that directly affects the maximum voltage you can feed the motor. By increasing the RPM, you increase the motor voltage, and since you've got a fixed motor current, increasing the voltage is the only way to increase the wattage. "But I'm using a battery of X volts," you may cry. "Isn't that the motor voltage?" Excellent question, no it is not! The ESC acts as a DC-DC converter, taking higher voltage and lower current from the battery, and converting it to lower voltage, higher current to feed the motor. The voltage and current it feeds to the motor changes dynamically according to your settings and the load applied to the motor. High load at low RPM (high torque) requires a high current, but a low voltage, causing you to hit the current limit well before you hit your power limit. Raising the RPM will allow the motor voltage to be higher, thus allowing higher power. "Wait" you say, "DC-DC converters need an inductor to work, and these ESCs have none!" Well, you're right, but the motor itself acts as the inductor. Switching to a prop of a lower pitch, or smaller diameter, or fewer blades, or some combo thereof, should help, although a higher prop speed may reduce your hydrodynamic efficiency.
Maybe make a propellor that’s just like modern airplanes, with the little lift at the end of the wings instead of a full “donut”, I was just thinking maybe it would be just as efficient in water
I'm wondering what the relation is between engine power and propeller surface. There is a sweet spot somewhere where the drag and pushing force are optimal
You can design your propeller to suit your motor, boat and desired speed with the Bserie propeller generator. Did you test a the prop before and after the sanding? I am wondering how much is the impact
He already realize the bottle neck, it requires higher supply voltage, usually it means the motor has reached torque limitation. The size of blade should be reduced, however don’t forget the motors are oil sealed, as the rpm increased more and more energy will be eaten up by shear of oil. The motors are the bottle neck, they designed for low rpm, either add extra units or get them out of the water to avoid oil shearing losses, as I did not do it wrong, he is losing 1000w at least just stiring the sealing oil. Dam it’s expensive if do it properly. Another possibility is the shape of the hulls tail, it’s too turbulent at higher speed, increased vortices and bubbles will offload the blade.
Keen to help you with the drives if need be so you can get more performance from the setup, know those motors well and also the controllers, let me know
saya fikir proppler drone divideo kemaren tidak seluruhnya gagal mungkin dengan banyak blade akan menstabilkan getaran kemudian di ujung blade menyatu satu sama lain sebagai penguat
Would it be possible that instead of running a 200 amp motor controller you use the controller for low speed manoeuvering and then for full power you just flip a switch or do these motors need a feedback loop to work?
