Turned the stock crank in my bracket car with a 350 in it to 7000 for 10+ years. It still ran fine when we pulled it out but when we took it apart the pistons were falling apart 😂 built another one and it also has a stock crank In it. People really don’t give the gen 1 the respect it deserves since the ls came out. These are some very tough engines.
Makes me wonder about the Scat 9000 Cast Steel 3.48" cranks. They claim they can handle 500 hp but people say they've done okay to 600 hp with them. And I want to run a Weiand Supercharger on one but only to 6000 rpm max.
Why does Pat look so... INTENSE when he's starting a dyno run? It's almost like... he ENJOYS thrashing on these motors... LMAO... seriously, love the content. I always seem to walk away entertained while having learned something.
We use E85 from the common gas pump for our Circle Track 358. We Haven't noticed any gains from race E85 to the normal pump E85... we did notice a large $ savings using Pump E85 vs Race E85 and especially against 112vp race fuel.
Lets just say I know how well pretty much a stock 355 can hold up to E85. I raced several years IMCA Hobbystocks and yes E85 was illegal but guess what I ran it with no modifications, The Engine was stock crank, rods, pistons with EQ heads 2.02 1.6 valves Roller tip rocers Edelbrock 2701 intake 1 inch adaptor 2 barrel Rochester carb Can't remember what size jets I ran but think it was mid 50's. The cam was very similar to L79 327 cam/602 crate cam. Mine was a Lunati cam in the Voodoo line. Ran between 32 to 36 degrees timing. would turn the motor every night between 7k to 7500K RPM. Never had a problem with it. Always wanted to Dyno it to see what it was putting out.
My 426 stroker, at 12.5:1 compression, was recently tuned for corn and man, what a performance difference! Can’t complain with a current pump price of $2.90/gal. either. Helps offset the reduction in fuel milage.
I was broke when I was young and did this a lot. The engine would scream but it wasn't balanced good enough and it would eat the rod bearings. It was fun as hell for 2 years at the time.
Nice work guys. Good power. I would have Decked the block and Torque plate honed. The torque would have been over 500 I'm guessing. But overall, nice build. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
I really think this engine would make more power with a 195-210cc competition ported afr head. Seen a test years ago in hot rod magazine where they lost 70hp stepping up from 200cc to a 235cc
I just love the la de da bolt everything up its just that easy. They never show them fighting and cussing at fiddly shit that blows everyone else's minds lol
"the cam only has a few hours of dyno time, no big deal" - I've used roller cams that's had thousands of passes and years of use, with hardly no wear. As long as the cam was well cared for and something wasn't beating the shit out of it, you can use them forever. As far as E85 goes, I buy it at the pump for $2.30-$2.80 per gallon (in my area as of Apr. 2023), then test it and mix whatever is needed (either Ethanol or gas) to make sure it is E85. Much cheaper than buying E85 "race fuel" ($8.20-$9.50 / Gal. in my area as of Apr. 2023). If you have a source for good Ethanol in your area for cheap, you can even mix your own E85 even cheaper. My questions is... Yes, making big power with a stock block and stock "cast" crank on a dyno chump, but how long is that thing going to last in a heavy drag car on a transbrake? OK, let's forget the transbrake, how long does it last in a heavy car (say 3200lbs), 1/4 mile at a time? My guess would be, not long!! So yes, fun on the dyno, practical?... probably not.
Can’t beat those AFR heads, with a cam and 185s I gained 70HP on a SBF crate engine, was $2k less than a supercharger kit and performed almost 80% of the gain. Now if I even do decide to go supercharged it will be more on top of a really good base
I think it's a 60/40 chance running a cast crank at that rpm regularly. A few dyno pulls shouldn't matter but beating on it regularly at the drag strip would be iffy. It definitely makes the odds better that it has better rods and that all the fasteners are high performance aftermarket. A good quality forged steel crank is very cheap insurance for protecting 6000 plus dollars worth of parts.
Another great video, I've watched many over the last couple of years, I'm still not sure about cam timing. I assume that you use an offset bushing but I don't know the procedure, maybe a short video would help.
Thanks for the build. E85 over race gas would seem to be the way to go. Easy to get good results 👌 Can't wait until next month when you post another new video.
Fun fact, cast cranks absorb torsional vibration better than a steel or billet crank. That's not to say that they are stronger, by any means, but they absorb the twist easier because they flex more under normal use. You try and pile the power on they break pretty easy, generally at the #2 main journal. For street type use where they see top rpm once a month they are pretty capable.
@@KingJT80 of course it all depends on your power level and how often you rebuild the engine, and check the crank.. theres probably a hundred thousand of those cranks in service with the 602 crate circle track engine.
Is the oil changed after first warmup/run in before power is measured? I am thinking about the 5-6 different assembly oils and engine oil in one big mixture, that cant be ideal when pushing the engine.
Do NOT use thread tape on engines. Its a Chev, GM headstud sealer is the stuff to use. Thread tape is less than ideal on plumbing,, I have seen it fill up engines full of coolant. Having been the E85 route it is far from as advertised. After a dyno making no more power than with avgas 100 it then sat in the shed for a couple of months and when stripped the bores were rusty, badly! I have never seen that with methanol engines and that too is hydroscopic. So I will now be [as per regs] be using 102 unleaded. Those SBC factory cast cranks are far stronger than you think. I have made near 500 on one with 12-1 and turned 7200 regularly road racing. Built a speedway sedan engine at similar and that turned 7000+ for a full season. I rebuilt an 80s injected Super Mod engine, a 327 large journal and it had done a LOT of work. Crack tested and reassembled with a modern cam. And has now done quite a deal more.And has factory rods as well I ran a cast [no steel ones] 351C crank for around 10 events with factory rods using 6800 max with no issues. All of these engines used good pistons In the 80s on a Sprintcar the 'good; engine had good crank, rods and pistons and the spare had good pistons, stock crank, rods and a 2 bolt block. That turned 7500+ on occasion and was used for two years with no issues. The good engine turned 8000 but hd too many issues. Both engines won features. That spare engine ended up in a sedan for a period after. Had been rebuilt and crack tested all ok. People make stupid power on LS cranks which are no better than a SBC crank.
Assuming its a steel crank, theres not a lot of benefit by going forged if its a factory block. A quality cast steel crankshaft and a production blocks are roughly the same strength. No real reason to go high end forged, only to end up with the block then being the weak link. Makes no more benefit than going with an aftermarket performance connecting rod but then putting a cast piston on it.
@@BuzzLOLOL won't work that way. The 8 narrow pickups would be for spark and 8 wide pickups for fuel injector control. Single tooth reluctor for the timing of all. The wide pickups would be for 40 degrees on the cam timing and equal out to 80 degrees of crank timing. This way the fuel injection pulse will be on the cylinder two steps ahead in sequence as the spark trigger is tripping. Could be an almost stand alone system that could be retrofitted to virtually any engine.
I'd like to see the use of the ethanol / water azeotrope of about 95.4% ethanol and 4.6% water as the fuel - cheapest fuel available, zero fossil fuels. I recall working at Texaco where we'd laugh that adding up to 5% water into a gasoline blend, was the best way to improve octane. And using ethanol fuel from biomass (from our farmers, not gasoline or diesel fuel from international oil companies) is the best way, within our transportation sector - ie. in our vehicles, to reduce global warming. Much better than electric vehicles plugged into the inefficient, expensive electrical grid system.
7000 rpms with a stock crank. every circle track race night sees past 700 rpms. my .060 over 350, cast piston, cast stock crank, stock rods, has seen 7400 rpms with a flat tappet hydraulic cam.
richard holdner did that. 6-71 blown twin 750s' on a 383 made 700HP on E85 and 11.4 PSI and thats pushing it for a roots because they heat up BUT that e85 helped
Hot Rod TV - Horsepower TV - Engine Power have always been my favorite of these build shows. I wish they would branch out and build more diverse performance engines but there's probably some Boomer keeping that from happening.
you should test how much more or less of each fuel it takes to get those numbers...500 hp on pump gas vs e85.. E85 is so cheap yes but it takes a lot more to get those numbers
I would like to see what you can do with a GM 2.4 eco-tech VVT 4 cylinder ... I have one and it is factory rated at 165 horsepower, and the machine is a 2016 Polaris Slingshot 5 speed standard that weighs 1700lbs so the power to weight ratio is close, it is fun don't get me wrong, but it is also tame, and I have owned it sense new, so I like more from it. Can you say I'm to use to it now :) I would like to see double the horsepower to make it fun again :)
with those heads, 220 cc intake AFR's and that compression, you should see 7500 rpms. the cam is wrong, too much lift on the exhaust side, you need more lift on the intake side. even in the gas test i would have used a 950 cfm carb.
