@Spencer Winston I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Love the lights but l have a weak connector. I have tightened twice and after a ride the blinker mechanism goes out. I have taken the electrical wrap away and tighten again but it keeps slipping 🤔
Hello T, I assume you're referring to the "Yellow" blinker wire. The T-Tap for that wire is intended to puncture through the exterior sheath of the wire and make contact with the copper wire inside. If a good connection is not made there the blinker wire will not have proper continuity and not work like it should.
Cool. These really enhance the look. I’d like to know how “distracting” they are as you’re riding, meaning can you always notice the constant glow coming from them while you’re riding down the road?
The strips are backed with adhesive.. so you can place them anywhere on the a-arms. If you adhere them more towards the front of the bottom of each a-arm they're hardly visible from the drivers seat.
Hello Dperry, probably not as the 1:4 is just a plug and play extender. It's the same install process but your power harness will now accept 4 diff lighting mods instead of one.
Question here. Can i run BOTH TricLED Dual Color LED Front Fender Vertical Running Light Strips with Blinker for the Can-Am Ryker (2 Pieces) and TricLED Dual Color LED A-Arm Running Light Strips with Blinker for the Can-Am Ryker (4 Pieces)? Is it possible?
Hello Tank, yes we have a 4:1 expansion harness "add on" kit to work with up to 4 dual color LED products. So you'll only have to "tap" the turn signal one time and the rest will be plug n play. Here is the link for that item: www.slingmods.com/canam-ryker-dual-color-led-expansion-kit-tricled
Greeting Slingmods. Will you guys be making a video on how to install the TricLED Dual Color LED Front Fender Vertical Running Light Strips with Blinker for the Can-Am Ryker (2 Pieces)? If not, i appreciate the videos you guys do post on here. Slingmods.com Rocks ^5.
Hello HA, the product is backed with 3M VHB backing tape which has a temperature range of 200 F down to -40 F. Please make sure you clean the surface area with an alcohol prep pad and the included primer stick prior to installation for max adhesion. Thanks!
Hello Stephen, awesome man! Glad to hear it. You'll need one of our 1:4 adapters to run more dual color lighting strips. That can be found here: www.slingmods.com/canam-ryker-dual-color-led-expansion-kit-tricled
I have all four of your accessory lights for the front of the Ryker. I also am running handlebar lights and a front LED in the hood. When I installed the additional lights using the 4:1 splitter, I blew the 5 amp fuse. Should I get a bigger fuse or buy your accessory fuse box?
Hello Dperry, our 4:1 splitter is designed to be used with our LED Lighting Strips. If you're tapping other mods onto that circuit you can exceed the current limitation of the fuse. You should never increase the fuse size in the OE fuse box as the wire running to the block is gauged according the the fuse. The underside of the fuse box lid should indicate what amp fuse should be used on that circuit. I would recommend running the lighting strips off the 4:1 splitter with a replacement fuse of the same amperage your bike came with, and running your other accessories of one of our aftermarket fuse blocks. Thanks!
@@Slingmods The handlebar and hood lights were installed at the dealership and are can am parts. I am using all your aftermarket parts (lights, 4:1 splitter, wiring, etc.). Do you think it is too much amperage for the accessory port?
@@dperry7830 Hey DPerry, if you're popping the fuse the current draw is too great on that circuit. The aftermarket fuse blocks pull direct from the battery and have independently fused circuits to allow for higher current mods.
@@Slingmods I have found out that the factory fuses are cheap. I replaced them with better fuses and everything worked fine. Let your customers know. Thank you for all your assistance. I'm new to working on mechanical things. And you're videos are so helpful. Stay safe.
The connection for the right side is causing my fender turn light to stay on constantly. I unplug the connector and it goes out like it's supposed to. Is anyone else having this issue??
Hello Frank, hmm. Are you sure you're tapping the turn signal and not the running light circuit? This is the first we've heard of this. I'm happy to put in a trouble ticket with the MFG if you'd like. Please let me know.
🔥 🔥 👅 now that’s hot!!!!! Wonder how they’d look on a spyder? Also do y’all carry rally lettered tires, haven’t seen any for the can am yet- but I think would look cool?
Thx Dub, here's them installed on a Spyder F3 www.slingmods.com/can-am-spyder-dual-color-a-arm-running-lights-with-amber-turn-signal?search=spyder%20a-arm We don't have tire letters at this time. Thanks!
Hello Antonio, my apologies.. but we don't actually provide any installs for customers. We create the videos for you as an aide to either install yourself or to provide the video content to an install shop near you. You may consider trying a custom stereo shop near you. Stereo shops are use to working with 12v mods. Thank you!
Hello. We have tried to make a purchase on your page. But it does not allow us to complete the purchase. Will you have another option to make the payment? Thank you
Hello Luis, sorry to hear about that and for any inconvenience. Our Customer Service Team is available Mon-Fri 9am-5pm PST at 800-211-1396. You can also submit a ticket if you'd like us to call you back to assist with your purchase. www.slingmods.com/index.php?route=information/contact Thank you!
Hello Day, my apologies.. but I'm not 100% following on what you mean by that. This mod pulls power from the 12v accessory port underneath the upper fairing. Then taps into the turn signal wire for blinker integration.
@@Slingmods like where yall connect it if i have the 12v accessories cable, (the one that allows what ever is connected tonit to shut off with the bike) can i connect this to it and it still work like it should?
@@daybyday9542 Ah.. I see. You will need this if you want to run multiple lighting mods to that port: www.slingmods.com/canam-ryker-dual-color-led-expansion-kit-tricled
Thanks MZ, we don't actually do customer installs.. we simply provide installation videos for the mods we sell. Thanks for the comment and glad you're enjoying our content.
We're actually doing that this week. We were waiting for our new "headlight lock rings" which are now the first "plug n play" solution on the market requiring no trimming of the factory headlight retention ring, as we provide a new one that's already a match to our headlight kits in each order.
@@georgekemp3877 Hello Fuzz, are you referring to the "headlight conversion kit"? You may have ordered before the locking rings were available. Did you not receive those with your order? Please email our support team here: www.slingmods.com/index.php?route=information/contact with your order# so we can get this handled for you! Thank you!
T taps are so unprofessional and will cause problems down the road... It is not that hard to strip the wire cover back and do a telegraph connection. They even make auto strippers now.
There are different ways to tap a circuit for sure Seth. The two causes for failure on T-Tap connections are either improper installation or moisture, which can cause corrosion leading to poor continuity. We do recommend using dielectric grease at this point of contact to prevent moisture corrosion. If you’re an installer or have experience with low voltage circuits, which it sounds like you do a telegraph connection would be superior to a T-Tap connection in my opinion. I would assume the MFG does not recommend your method of installation because if a customer with less experience than yourself used wire strippers on the wrong gauge setting there is a chance they could cut the wire that was meant to be tapped creating a larger issue and a much dreaded support call. Thanks for your feedback.
