Can Am Spyder F3 fuse information- Learning the Basics - Can Am Spyder F3 fuses 

Thank you for support!!!! Got the card and postcard! Love it and beautiful place indeed. It is awesome that you got to see all of that and travel the states.

@@MOABMAN 🤗💜 thank you so much!!

Thank you so much for that! I tried my best to keep this as simple as possible and ecplain things that way as well. Appreciate the support!!!

Thank you for watching!! There is more technical stuff than this concerning fuses but hopefully this will help for those that are just afraid to touch the fuses to replace if needed. Everyone has to learn and start somewhere!! Appreciate the comment!

Thanks for the comment and for watching the video. You are correct that the fuse does protect wiring as well and most of the time that is where you will see a fire type issue start from is the wiring or bad wiring. To much current can melt things. I don't mean this to sound aggressive towards you, if it does sorry, but I am just explaining this a different way than in the video. If you want to test your theory of it not protecting your device then you can try to bypass the fuse by a simple wire jumper and let the amps rip on accessories or your starter maybe and see if it fries it. With the fuse that you say only protects the wiring out of the way, if you are correct, it won't damage anything. You and i both know it will most likely pop that internal fuse but ultimately or the overall result will be your device will need to be replaced. I do not claim to be an expert at all or mechanic but ultimately that fuse is there to protect everything after it. I did try the best i could to keep this basic but i am sure that there are great possibilities that i am not always right. You are correct as well though because yes a fuse on a device is there to protect the device. In order to keep this video simple and basic i felt it best just to say that the fuse protects the device as my hopes were people would understand it best that way that have no experience in electrical type things like discussed here. I try hard not to be boring and also explain things as simple as possible. So could you imagine if I made a 20 min long video where i covered that a 6 inch wire goes from your battery terminal to a inline fuse that is calculated by the following formula " I (Amps) = P (Watts) ÷ V (Voltage)", then has a 10 inch wire going to you computer board travels through resistors and what nots and then the circuits in the board go to a fuse that protects the whatever by a gold plated circuit that leads to the whatever. I would have zero views after the first 5 seconds. I love the interactions of comments as it helps me grow and like I said I am not always right about things, so i really do appreciate the time you took for a comment. Also I don't recommend working on the Spyder unless you are a certified Can Am tech just to prevent the wrong information being spread. Thanks again for watching!

In the right fuse box check #5 and in the left box check fuses 1,2,5 and 7. For sure check to see if the kill switch is activated or not. I would flip it on and off then try to start it, and try about 3 times as well. Unfortunately without being there, this is hard to trouble shoot. I currently am not near the service manual I have so these are a guess on the fuses that may be an issue. When I can I will check the service manual and see what I can find. Until then I hope those fuses or the kill switch will fix it. Also. Please let me know if it helped or if you still have problems. I have heard of the control cluster needing replaced before, but hope it is something simple for you.

@Larry-qt8ye Hello, and here is the email at the end of comment. I'll be glad to help if I can, but may be tomorrow before I respond. moab.man@yahoo.com

@davem413 There are 2 spots for the fuses on that year: 1. Under the service cover behind the front storage compartment on the front left side of the vehicle 2. Under the seat on the right side of the vehicle. Most manuals prior to 2015 models were hard to find anything in. I am not sure if Can Am was trying to hide things on purpose but they did a great job of it. Hope this helped!

WHOA BABY!!!! The Nerd in me loves this question and I am loving these comments. Awesome and so glad that people are asking them. Ok get ready for a long one. Visually, the Blade fuse has male prongs for insertion and can be "wobbly" the JCase uses a female type plug-in that allows better placement and accuracy of contact. The JCase will probably start being seen more in vehicles. The difference in sizes is basically just due to space. We don't see these as much in the US for some reason and you will see it more in foreign type vehicles. Usually blade fuses are just small in size so good for spacing and can be removed and inserted by just fingers the majority of the time. Now to my understanding on the Technical and this is just my understanding. The JCase has increased time delay and low voltage drop which helps it protect high current circuits better. The JCase also handles inrush currents better. Inrush current is basically what happens when something is first turned on. A DC motor, Vacuum Cleaner, hair dryer are good examples of things that most of the time have a fairly high inrush current but return to normal current after the initial start up. The JCase is better prepared for this than the blade fuses. I am not trying to be funny but give you an idea of what i just said in case it is over any ones head............ A JCase can take a pretty big punch at first compared to the blade fuse and then the JCase waits a few seconds longer to see if that is all you got. Now if a second punch hits just as hard as the first punch the JCase then throws in the towel. A blade fuse usually says "okay i'm done" after that first big punch. So the time delay that the JCase has prevents it from "easily" blowing (or to stay with the example "throwing in the towel" to soon). As far as i know these are the differences. If anyone knows differently I hope they comment to help. Thanks for watching and supporting by commenting! Hope you enjoyed the video.

Hello and thanks for supporting the channel and watching and good to hear from you. Dang good question and something I overlooked to discuss in more detail on the video and probably should have so thanks for speaking up with a question. Unfortunately most of the time (and this includes cars too) they do not tell you the exact type of fuse. My Spyder (2018) uses the mini blade fuse and the tall JCase. I am not 100 % sure of every model out there as to what type of fuse but this will probably be the same for most years after 2015 I believe. The best way to tell though is to pull it out and visually look at what type. I do a lot of my own work on all my vehicle so when i buy fuses it is usually in an assortment of sizes. I have had my Spyder for 5+ years now and never needed to worry about the fuses in case you are wondering. If you do decide to purchase extra fuses and do an assortment i would look at your manual and see what size all the fuses are and pick an assortment on Amazon that only covers those sizes to help save money. You are pretty safe in only getting the Mini fuse and Tall Jcase as well. I did not say much on them but the relays that are marked R should never really need replacing and if they do, PLEASE, take it to a dealer because you most likely have a big issue that caused it to go out. Good to hear from you and hope you are lovin the Spyder!!!!

Hello and first thanks for watching and supporting the Channel. Just to be sure I cover what you asked, there are 2 things i have on the front and they are seperate. The factory grill does have to be taken off to service the radiator and it is not super hard but time consuming. The Spyders have thin plastic so its best to take your time. The other item is an aftermarket brush guard. It is very easy to remove but you do have to remove it to repair radiator. As far as cleaning i hand wipe everything and it does not get in the way. I have been extremely happy with it and it has protected the front of my Spyder a lot from road debris and scrapping when the road is at a funny slope and the front drags. Hope this is the helpful to you! Thanks again for the comment!

I believe but not 100% sure that it is a 10a fuse in position 5 in the fuse box under the service panel. I think they have the ECM and OBD reader mixed together in the wiring. Please do not use this as a power source for any accessories in case you are thinking that way. Hope this helped and thanks for watching.

Thank you for watching!! Thank you for saying that as i was hoping it would be taken as just that....... An overview and i love hearing that people understand what my goal of the video was! The tester is pretty cheap and i have actually used it a lot since i bought it. Got it on Amazon.

You are definitely having electrical issues. Just on what you said it could be several things. Please take it to a can am dealer so they can hook it up to a computer. That will actually be the cheapest start for trouble shooting. It could be something as simple as a bad ground wire on the chassis to a bad key or ECU. If someone just worked on it and removed a ground that could cause these issues. I am hoping it will be a cheap fix for you!! The way you describe it acting sounds like a chassis grounding issue but not sure.

@@MOABMAN You got any more tips possibly on where to start if I can’t get it to a dealer but have a mechanic who can check it out?

If you have after market items that were wired into the bike, i would start there for sure and make sure they are wired correctly and not causing an issue. Older Spyders (2015 and older) did not like aftermarket parts sometimes. If not that .. What I would check first is the main Chassis ground along with other main grounds. Clean the area around and underneath it well. When reconnecting, make sure it is tight and clean underneath for a good connection. Use a lock washer if you can, too. Visually inspect the wires for breaks, melts, or cuts. During a recall fix, the dealership half ..... put the ground back on. I rode home and the next day it had various VSS faults like what you said and acted like the battery was dying. I just replaced the battery, and knew it wasn't that, so started looking and found it was the Ground. Even though it looked connected, it wasn't. This was causing shorts on everything since it was a main ground. If it is not a can-am dealer, I would buy a service manual that shows all the wiring and share with them. After that, start checking each code issue one by one. Do not do all at once and be thorough when checking it. If it is multiple issues (like what you were saying), I always list everything and research prices. Then I start with the cheapest first and most expensive last, hoping it will be a cheap fix. I hope this helps and feel for you. It is not pleasant to have your bike down and be worrying about costs too! Feel free to keep asking as you go along..... I will try to help the best I can. If you don't want to keep doing this by comments please feel free to email me at: moab.man@yahoo.com I will do what I can to help.

Thank you for that. This one actually took 2 months and had to be redone 2x. I had audio troubles then video troubles and both due to computer so had to get new one. It is probably the most expensive video i have worked on! Appreciate the support!