@@EdgyNumber1 There are far too many cars with lots of years left in them being sent for scrap in the UK........it's ludicrous. Yet we are urged to recycle everything from cans to plastic to garden waste....and you can be fined for NOT recycling! Yet cars are left off the list...every excuse possible for the car to be sent for scrap, an early grave.......just to keep the manufacturers happy. It's a joke.
Especially when it is a car like this. I am talking about 2000-2007 volvo. Its very well built, reliable (d5 is amazing engine) and comfortable. I own a V70 myself, from 2005 with 306k on the dash, and runs like a charm.
Joel, its great you are having a go but please be minded a torque wrench is just that, its for torqueing up a nut/bolt to a specific tightness. Its not for using as a large socket wrench. This is the job of the breaker bar. Good luck Andy
I remember going through the same trials and tribulations when I started working on my old cars. It's a steep learning curve. You're lucky. There was no RU-vid back then for me. It's such an invaluable resource these days
For someone who doesn’t have much experience in mechanics…….your a brave soul to attempt an old high mileage car! Fair play for having a go Joel. My Mrs has a 04 xc90 executive, I’ve done countless jobs on it, based on experience with these you’ll have a good few more jobs on the to do list…….all five engine/gearbox mounts will transform it!
Hi Joel the one tool that you should be ordering is an angle grinder! Anything that you plan to throw away you can simply cut the sucker off, drop links and anti roll bars are common for this. It will certainly be the quickest move considering you only have the workshop for a few days.
Big thumbs up..... Yeah, I did the same job....but not to replace the parts, just for access to the alternator on a V8, otherwise, just cut the nuts off: Stop messing about.....! If it is a scrap part...treat it as such.
They are drop links - not anti roll bars. When you work on anything suspension related the first thing you do is spray plus gas on anything you need to undo. Good luck.
Hi Joel, All you need for the roll bar bolts is an alan key that fits in the end of the thread, then use a ring spanner to undo the nut. Best off with an alan key from a socket set. It's got much better leverage. Obviously put the ring spanner on first. A longer bar and a ball joint spliter will sort all the other bolts out. You probably need to clean the thread with a wire brush on the strut bolts. The new ABS wheel will need heating up to expand it and use the old one to knock it back on, but really clean the area with a wire wheel on a drill before knocking it back on and grease up around the end of the drive shaft. You've probably managed to sort all this, but just in case you haven't👍👍
@@motorbikesmegarock8477 Exactly... I fully agree....but...I have NEVER had need of a Ball-Joint splitter.... Not done much on Motorbikes, so I stand corrected if I am incorrect! Cheers.
There is another way: You put leverage on the back of the "joint" so increasing the taper effect on its shaft..... then the nut will come off. But yes, an Allen key is normally the solution. We all live and learn. Hopefully.
Hi Joel, just wanted to say what you have there is a Ryobi impact driver, it’s mostly for putting in screws etc, what you need is an impact wrench, it’s massively more torque, has a 1/2” head on it for sockets. Will make life much easier. Also a ball joint splitter would help, they are tapered so your unlikely to budge it via normal means :)
All tapered joints can be easily removed if you know how to hit the receptacle properly with a hammer.....I have never used a ball-joint-splitter in my life. And I have never damaged any component as a result. It's the appliance of science......of which I know little, but what I do know, works.
Hey Joel! You have 2 options: 1. Set this POS on fire (cheaper option) 2. Get an impact wrench and decent set of impact sockets. Can't wait for an M6 content 😅😅😅
I find using a powered rotary wire brush on the threaded ends of the rusted suspension bolts helps. When the threads rust, they gets bigger and won't unthread through the nut.
It's worth mentioning that there is a tool called a nut splitter that will remove rusted on nuts in locations like that. Also an angle grinder as a last resort (or Dremel even with a cutting wheel). Always wire-brush the hell out of the threads before undoing the nuts so they don't bind again as you undo them. Also recommend Plusgas instead of WD40 for unseizing parts.
Absolutely agree on Plusgas. WD40 is great up to a point for lubrication. But for really stubborn items, Plusgas is a major step up. Looking forward to the rest of your journey with the Volvo.
Good on you for saving a good car. Just a suggestion when you want to remove corroded nuts and bolts on the suspension components, before spraying with a releasing agent, try removing some of the corrosion with a wire brush first, then spray with WD40. It really can help.
Handy tip, if you cant unbolt it after using penetrating fluid try using a mini blow torch to expand the nut. Just make sure the flammable fluid is rinsed off first! Also if a different coloured mirror bothers you (might do) you can either spray them or buy d.i.y vinyl wrap and cover the outer shells
I don't remember which 12-sided socket I used for the wheel lock. I think size 20. You hit it over the wheel lock with a big hammer. And then with a spinning top. If it still doesn't work, put an extension in and twist it as far as possible
Joel - you need a blow lamp, a heavier club hammer, a ball joint separator and to remove the anti roll bar drop links, use a spanner or vice grips to stop the joint from spinning while you undo the nuts. Good luck with part 2 !!
For future reference put the nut back on the lower control arm and hammer that (you are replacing the nut so doesn't matter) the shock load should cause it to pop off. Heat is your friend here too, esp for rusty bolts; will see later if the blowtorch helps you :D
also get a bigger hammer, that small claw hammer is not enough for shock load :) Feel the same way about locking wheel nuts; all cars i've had of late i swapped out for new bolts etc; you just know the locking wheel key is going to let you down when you need it.
That MOT failure list doesn't look too bad. They are mostly semi consumable, semi service items. New tyres, lower wishbones, ABS rings etc. Those pre DPF D5's are amazing for lasting and lasting. Just keep changing the oil and oil filter.
I would be very careful about putting the used tyres on as the volvo awd system dose not do well with tyres that have different amouts of wear needs at least the same amout on each axle
Totally agree with that but at this point it is just to get through the MOT. Once that is done you can reach for your big wallet if you are keeping the car.
Good to see you finally getting stuck in.. I've never really thought of renting a garage but it's a good idea. Can't wait until I can build my own though!
I feel your pain with the locking wheel bolts. I mullered my key (I went crazy with the impact wrench) so I had to get a garage to get the bolts out and I replaced them with normal wheel bolts which I bought from the dealer. I also struggled with the front drop links and ended up getting medieval with a grinder. I had to replace the passenger door mirror too. eBay is good for genuine used parts. I think that injectors have to be coded or programmed to the ECU if you replace them but you might get away with replacing just one. I'd have tried Cataclean but Redex is better than nothing. The Volvo forums are a wealth of knowledge and I've documented the work I've done on my XC90 on my own channel.
Great to see the xc90 coming back to life ,never had one but my next vehicle. Get yourself a decent impact socket set as you could end up breaking your chrome ones . . Also watch your rings tape them up or take it off when working on cars seen a few accidents . Can’t wait for part 2
Quick tip for the future! When trying to undo “frozen” nuts (🥶) do them in reverse(locking) first and then try unlocking them!, and when replacing them a smear of copper slip will help in the future! Well done for having a go!👍
I would make a cut in those awkward bolts and gently but firmly, hammer and chisel those bolts into undoing. You're not trying to cut the head of the bolt off, just enough so it can be undone. I doubt you will get those headlights back to normality. It might be cheaper and a lot less frustrating to replace them or maybe have professionally refurbished. You've got a new subscriber anyways. Good luck with this car mate, I think you're gonna need it............
Yessss Joel, my man, get in there!! Great to see you turning a wrench yourself. It's so much more rewarding than handing over hard earned to somebody else.
When i look at that failure list i am really looking forward to Part 2...and 3....and 4 .....and 5 ...😀. Anyway nothing but power to your elbow and anything else that might help you get bits off, good luck.
Fair play Joel - hope you succeed - the Volvo is actually a really beautiful thing… you’ll end up getting me buying a project car and totally screwing it up😂😂
Joel - evening, I have just come across your channel and I agree completely that any old Volvo that structurally doesn't require hours of welding is worth repairing and saving. Truth be told, I actually like the fact that you can see wear and tear in the car to prove that it's been used as a family transport. I have a 20-year-old XC 70 and lower control arms were on my MOT fail list as well. A huge pickle fork type ball joint splitter that you can belt with a hammer is a very useful tool and can be used as a lever once you've broken the rust around the ball joint hole. Good luck.
For the mirror, see if you can get your hands on some vinyl wrap in the proper colour (I suspect it's Volvo 466 Barents Blue Metallic) which should be easy enough to stick on. You can also get the paint in a spraycan. Similarly, fibreglass, polyester and vinyl wrap would be a good solution to repair your interior trim without having to search the exact matching parts.
Great job for trying to get this Volvo back in shape by yourself. It deserves to be saved and I'm sure you will get it done. Good luck and looking forward to the videos !
enjoyed this, it all tends to go pear shaped for me when repairing my own vehicles, however, the wing mirror is not an MOT failure, it is the nearside and you have the rear view mirror, MOT regs state two mirrors, not three...
Nice to see.... But big no no using the torque wrench to remove bolts, use the breaker bar instead, you'll mess up the internals of the torque wrench otherwise
Hi Joel, I have just come across your videos on the Volvo, I love Volvo's especially the xc90, I now work on buses which are Volvo's, also drive them, but have serviced and repaired Volvo's in the past. I would have loved to have worked on the 90 with you getting it all repaired. Well done for having a go. Look forward to see more videos. 👍🙂
100% spot on with eBay on this one. Perfect partnership really. My first port of call for car parts has always been eBay and I’ve never struggled or been disappointed
Rule Number 1: Don't use a Torque Wrench as a breaker bar, ok if it's knackered but seeing as you just bought it using it crack off nuts it's the best idea especially when you want to Torque things back up again. As a mechanic it's definitely not a wise idea. Still hats off to you for tackling the jobs yourself. Those front arms can be a right PIA!!! 😂😂 Also didn't Volvo say the Intercooler is blown or the Radiator cause they're two different things. Intercooler is for the induction system ie Turbo and Radiator is the cooling the engine with Antifreeze. Make sure you check which has been said before ripping into the wrong unit!!
You’re doing a great job Joel! Older cars are so quickly binned off rather than a bit of perseverance and bring them back to life. Those headlights should sand down and polish up. I recently did mine
I am very excited to see how it turns out. I'm a mechanic and also a XC90 owner, but I can see everyone has covered any tools or tips you would need. I got to say ebay UK is great for tools and parts, especially used. Having since moved to France, Ebay France never has discount codes and all the prices of new or used parts are double the price and barely many listings. If I order parts here from ebay uk, I'll end up paying over twice in shipping and customs fees etc since Brexit. So instead I plan to make a big basket and then come with the XC90 once a year, pay the ULEZ (London) and stock up on all the parts and tools I need haha. Literally the cost of fuel and ferry would be less than the difference if I buy them here.
Hey Joel. I'll give you one piece of advice. Get a real mechanics big hammer. Its called a ball pein hammer. I cringe watching you use a joiners claw hammer. Can't knock you for having a go though 😉
I had 2007 reg xc90 D5 2,4 diesel. Perfect car. Nice comfort of full leather. Bose sound system. Automatic. Unfortunately after 3 years use, service was needed suspension, Abs, gearbox, tyres. I was ready to repair. It was perfect and beauty car but cost of repair was more than £2000. Too much for that old SUV.
I might be wrong, but those drop links that you were struggling with, if its spinning round and not undoing, you'll probably find you need a spanner of the same /similar size at the back of it too as its just a mini ball joint type thing. Great video and keep at it...
For the drop links, you use an allen bit, or a Torx bit it looked like in this case, in the end to hold it, then a ring/open spanner to take the nut off. Or, as you have new hardware to fit on and won't need the old bolts etc..., just grind it off and fit the new ones.
Cut the anti roll bar links off... It could be an injector seal leaking, or, i have had it more than once the pipe going into the injector needs tightening. Ive also had it fail emmisions due to fuel filter need changing...if its dirty and blocked it will push the emmisions up.
Good work there! I've done quite a lot of my own servicing and repairs, and got stumped by very tight bolts when replacing brake discs. The local independent garage were great and sorted it for me while I supplied the parts. They were so efficient at getting the blasted things undone that the labour cost was minimal too.
Good to see progress on this , you'll never get those anti roll bar links off like that you need a T20 star drive bit to put in the middle on a socket with a ring spanner on the nut
You need a proper impact wrench like a Milwaukee you are using a impact driver big difference. And also for the drop links you a torx to go in the centre to hold it while you undo it .and on top.of that a ball.joint splitter
They’re Drop Links, not Roll Bars. :-) If your doing suspension on an older motor your tool of choice is an angle grinder with a 2mm disc. Just chop the nuts &/or bolts straight off. The drop links on my Galaxy were practically service items. I’d never faff about, straight in & chop them off. But great effort young man. !!
I've done the suspension on my Volvo V70 p2 (the suspension is almost completely the same). In order to take it apart and prevent everything from spinning together (as you mentioned in the video) with the nuts is to put a torx key (the holes for the torx are visible on the video) with one hand inside and turn the nut with a spanner with your other hand.
I've freed very stubborn nuts by applying heat using a blow torch. Got to be done with care (don't set fire to anything) but it's worth a go before resorting to angle grinder or nut splitter.
A tip for taking the locking wheel nuts off yourself - use an impact driver because it drives in the 'key' while turning it. Also never let the idiots at the tyre centre use a compressor on that locking nut. Better still get rid of them, they are an absolute pain. I have had two go bad and one had to be cut off with a Dremel (shaped it to a standard hex shape).
Great to see you attacking this project yourself! I remember when you were nervous to do an oil change, older cars like this really are just nuts and bolts. As you’ve found, corroded nuts and bolts are the biggest challenges with older cars
Its fantastic to see you getting stuck in! You'll get used to mechanicing in no time and you'll be rebuilding whole cars. Im not usually too fussed by video ads, but ive almost completely rebuilt my Range Rover and its engine with ebay parts. Make sure to link your nectar card to your Ebay account 😂
This is a major change for the channel...now your getting your sleeves rolled up and honestly this is a great switch up imho...should be even more funny and interesting to see what a complete novice can do! I've also wanted to try wrenching but always be scared to try😂
Hi buddy, you need a ball joint breaker tool… looks like a two prong wedge…. Euro car parts have them in stock. For your drop links you need a spanner and a T probably T45 or similar size to hold the thread from Spinning whilst you undo the nut. Good luck mate
Yes! Great video and well done for trying the work yourself. I'd love to have that enthusiasm, but I just can't be bothered with bold not turning, screw heads breaking.... 😢😢😢 Can't wait for part two! ❤❤❤
Great to see you getting stuck in, best way to learn. You'll likely need a ball joint splitter to persuade them to let go. Various types available. I like the tuning fork style as you get to hit it with a big lump hammer!
Hi Joel, This is so exciting - great content. It’s a shame you can’t get a professional to come and help you, or perhaps the most difficult jobs you could get done at the garage. I’m really looking forward to part two.
Ball Joint splitter! The drop links involve a torque key and a long ring spanner plus ty wire brushing the rusty threads first. Good luck with the lower control arms, that involves a bolt through from the inside. Again brush off the exposed threads
For the The anti roll bar links use some mole grips clamp the rubber boot as hard as you can and then undo the nuts. The lower ball joints your using the same technique as I would but you really need a heavier duty hammer to hit the arm whilst levering downwards.
I have a set of side steps for sale, original Volvo ones not after market ones I’m in South Shields near Newcastle Keep at it Joel I enjoyed mine until the oil seal went that’s between engine and clutch housing common thing to go especially after a service 😊
you shouldve put a jack under the suspension and jack it up slightly to release tension on all the components so the nuts would be undone a little easier
lol welcome to the life of any DIY home mechanic. as most of us that do our own stuff over the years we gather the tools needed and if in doubt then use a bigger hammer :) quite a challenge you set yourself three days is tight for all the components you want to change especially without tools for the job. hope it goes well :) and the tie rods for the anti roll bar have a hex on the other side so you can hold when undoing the nut ;)
Before you hit any bolts with a hammer put a nut on them to protect the threads. And get a ball joint splitter to separate the ball joints. Have fun and remember I AM WATCHING YOU.👍
You need a good impact wrench and socket set if you have an old rusty car. something like the DEWALT DCF899 will remove those bolts (and add some heat).
Hi Joel. Have you tried using an allen key to lock off the drop link bolts the hex hole for the key is in the end of the bolt. You will need to use a spanner of course on the nut. If as you say they are turning all as one locking the bolt it should come off.
It's just down to the right tools and the knowledge that is what you pay for ,but with determination and the correct advice you will get there , look on RU-vid plentiful supply of how to do stuff for most cars
Can't believe how great the bodywork looks on that car. I think it's a terrific idea to attempt those repairs. Think you will need heat and of course your trusty hammer, to shift some of those nuts. Really enjoying the content.
Ahh takes me back to my MGF and my attempt to do all the work for it to pass its MOT. The joys of spending half a day just trying to remove 2 bolts. In the end my parents offered to give me some money to buy another car with the strict instruction that I was to get rid of the MG and not spend a penny more on it.
Well done joel, getting out of your comfort zone is always a worry. Know better way of learning, just get stuck into it. I recently used ebay for wheel bearing on my polo and they were around £40 cheaper overall, compared to everywhere else. I go to ebay first anytime I need car parts
