CAN I SAVE MY £800 COPART VOLVO XC90? PART 2 

Good work mate. This is the most accurate representation of "working on your car" on all of youtube.

Mate: that ball joint is fine - it just rotated on it's ...ball :) Also when it comes to ABS sensors: get cheap OBD reader to determine which wheels isn't reading the speed then try swapping sensor only from other side. If it reads ok, then you know to buy wheel speed sensor (£20-ish a pop, no worries). If the wheel speed isn't being detected then check wires carefully before ripping into ABS rings. Ask me how I know. BTW Your channel is an excellent representation of how car tinkering REALLY looks like.

Ball joint supposed to do that. Also while changing control arm you should remove drive shaft bolt and loosen up the shaft so it could move in and out, otherwise you might pop cv joint out and have whole new problem. Also, you need to beat the control arm with much more power to spearate it from ball joint (same with outer steering rods or driveshaft). Good luck and keep up the good work, man.

It’s refreshing to see an honest video on trying to repair a car by someone who admits he may not know exactly what to do but is willing to give it a try. Kudos to you Joel and can’t wait for your next video!

Top work the bent ball joint made me laugh it’s meant to move around like a joint but your learning and what your doing for a beginner aren’t easy jobs

What a guy! Fair play Joel. I’m about an hour away and would happily point you in the right direction! Lost count of the amount of jobs I’ve done on our old xc90

You are either incredibly patient or cleverly edited out all the parts where you lost it and threw a spanner through a window

This is how every half hour job in my head turns into a multi hour/weekend job😅

Brave effort Joel. Think that ball joint is ok, just moving as it should. Working on this sort of stuff always makes me feel I haven't enough hands! Good luck for the rest of the work. Great, very watchable content.

Well done, you remind me of how I had to learn the hard way as a young guy… I had forgotten how it felt until I watched you. Do not feel defeated, you are doing it and have the right ideas. Replacing extra pieces in the suspension and doing both sides at the same time is absolutely SAFE and wise, yes fitting it takes time to learn but you are doing well.

If replacing old parts on a car and replacing the bolt nut etc get yourself a grinder, old rusty bolts come of 100 times easier when you chop them 😊 also with drive shafts, losen the bolt about a third of the way then hit the bolt this will shock the shaft and free it up, dont losen the bolt to much as you can potentially damage the thread. And get yourself a real hammer 🔨 😉 more videos like this too, best way to learn is do it yourself and overcome the issues as they arise!

I feel for you Joel, it's pretty brave to take on that much work with no real experience. Loads of us have been there and feel your frustration, well done and I hope it all pays off. 👋

Nice one Joel - I would recommend you don't use your torque wrench as a ratchet, otherwise it will lose its accuracy 👍 Also, if you need to hit the end of the drive shaft, put the nut back on and then hit the nut to avoid mushrooming the shaft. I share your frustration - doing work on a car with this age / mileage was never going to be easy

The ball joints are meant to move like that, they are just very stiff when new. Sometimes you need to move it to easier align with the control arm. You can also jack up the knukle to easier align the control arm. But damn well done for doing work yourself! These xc90's are rubbish, but fantastic when running right!

Great video of someone who is only human ! Keep it up, you have a fan who wants to see this finished, a man who recently wrote on a Volvo facebook advert about the £84,000 price tag on a new 90, "Who on EARTH can afford one of these ?"....They didn't answer or acknowledge !!!

Oh my, been there done that! Empathize fully with you, but you are so right - what you have learned is that you can do it yourself - you have an aptitude you can build on now. It gets easier with time and then you take on more complex tasks. I just finished a timing chain on a Mercedes engine - not a job for the average diy mechanic, but because of starting off like you I worked my way here. The immense satisfaction you get doing it yourself and saving big $$$ will have you sold on doing more. You will also develop a close "relationship" with your car, and it makes it that much more difficult to part with it when you've but all your own blood sweat and tears into it. Anyway, good going - I felt rather proud of you if I may say! All the best, look forward to episode 3.

Si Robb has really helpful tutorials for most of the things you've encountered.

A bit of advice from someone that had to learn how to fix cars all by myself near enough. The best thing you need is a Haynes manual. Nevermind icarly or all these Bluetooth code readers. Get sponsorship from Haynes, because with a physical copy it'll not only help you diagnose a problem it'll tell you how to fix it. Step by step, easy peasey. Fair play to you tackling this and not going the easy route of having someone shadow you or the other wau round. I've got a set of control arms to replace on my mum's car when I'm back onshore and I'll be sweating like an old docker.

Never underestimate the power of heat, ie blow torch. 👍

More ppl need to fix their own cars, well done Joel! 👏👏

I just did my abs rings on an S60, which is the same drive shaft set up. I took the brake caliper, housing and disc off, and the hub came forward with total ease. I think I saw you take the hub bolt off, so that's ok. My control arm was still attached, so I just pushed down on it and it came away no probs. Easy to smack the old ring off, but as I mentioned before, clean the area really well and heat the new one up to expand it, then knock it on using the old one so as not to damage it.

Great video, don't knock yourself, you've done really well with this. Soon be doing engine swaps!

Joel when you’re next on the Isle of Wight your have to pop to my unit and I’ll teach you a few things over a weekend . There’s so much there you could have done easier. It’s good you’re learning tho we all start somewhere and you pick an xc90 as a start . Good lad 😂

Ball joint is meant to do that, it pivots, you should be able to move it into position with your hand or use something as leverage.

Just recently fixed two cars with 'ABS light' issues, cleaned both the sensor and ring with brake cleaner and voila two weeks later still no issues. Cheap and simple fixes and should always be tried first, even if it means fitting a new ABS sensor which cost around £10 each. If that doesn't fix it then try a new ring. Don't always take the garage's diagnosis as gospel.

a pro tip when tightening the lower wishbone nuts. Do it when its on the floor or the bushes will ripe and fail very quickly.

Another great video Joel, I applaud your efforts and feel your pain. My neighbours are convinced that I have anger issues, as when I work on my cars there is often much swearing and random tools flying out of the garage door onto the drive! Keep at it, youre doing great.

I’m a great believer when it comes to dismantling the suspension of replacing as much as I can and always in pairs, near side AND offside. For the price of a ballpoint or a set of bushes it’s false economy to not replace them altogether.

Mate - wife has an XC60 & replaced lots of suspension bits or rear springs, bushes etc… but IMO the front lower control arms & springs are under so much tension I gave up… so good on ya for succeeding. Most bits are surprisingly easy to dismantle. Until you’ve owned a Volvo… you’ll never understand the love Well done for saving her 👍

Friendly advice Joel, don't use a torque wrench for undoing, tightning only! Great job otherwise though :)

Great video mate, just mind its all a learning curve for you! Also i dont think that ball joint was bent, it has just moved as a ball joint should and you could move it back straight again, dont bin it. For the drop links theres usuallly an allen keyy hole in the front to stop it just spinning so you van undo it woth a sapnner or a spanner into a groove on the rear, if that fails angle grinder it outa there

Ball joints are meant to move. You would have to really whack it to bend it. At least your having a bash and will learn along the way.

Great idea hiring a garage out to get these jobs done, I’ve done them on the drive in the rain before and it’s a right pig of a job. Keep up the hard work, it will all be worth it in the end 💪🏻

Great job, great to see you tackling these jobs. Careful putting them ball joints back into the knuckle, your not meant to use the bolts to pull them in as you can strip the female threads and you will be in the shit, better tapping them in with an oversize socket or something similar. Also when you need to lover those control arms over the ball joints a big length of 4x4 ratchet strapped to the control arm and a mate standing on the other end will get it down for you 😊

A carpenters hammer? Come on Joel! A 2lb Engineers hammer with its ball-pein head will shock most ball joints loose easily.....if you apply the kinetic energy correctly. ABS Rings..... mostly require a wire brushing.... It's a ring....it does not "wear" as such but accumulates rust and debris which causes false signals to the sensor, and thus the ABS warning light. (Be thankful you are not doing these jobs on a V8 version of the Xc90.... Double the nightmare, I can assure you. I did much the same jobs on mine recently....and I'm 71.) But I love your enthusiasm....... every day is a contribution to the learning curve....... Crack on young man. You're doing fine.

I do feel your pain - there is nothing so frustrating as being half way through a job and realising that you need a different part or tool - and it usually happens when the shops are shut. My days of working on cars are long gone but I experience similar when doing DIY jobs around the house - so frustrating coming to a grinding halt with everything disassembled.

hats off to you Joel! A much needed content when all others just put happy uplift tunes onto clips of them (or even someone else) doing the work and not entirely telling the whole story. Ngl I'm fed up with every repair YT'er diving into project after project not really seeing the end results, and wondering when is when. This series is just pure honesty

Fantastic content - I’m really engrossed in what you’re doing, so much more so than in your usual style of video. It’s great that you’re learning so much about the workings of the car. Whatever the eventual outcome this won’t have been a wasted endeavour. I hope you’re finding time to read these comments, because some of them contain some really good practical advice - from people who obviously have experience of doing these sort of jobs.

Great videos mate. Couple things. When I am changing the drop links I usually just cut the old ones off instead of wasting the time trying to get the nut off. The control arm I would jack the suspension up and will give you more room to play with but just watch you don't start jacking the car up at a certain point. 👍

The ball joint is supposed to move about .but as a beginner i guess ur learning .love the volvo brand between me and my family weve been through the whole catalogue of models from the 240 to the R models to the t5-r.keep learning an keep doing ur own work an remember you tube is full of education.

Top tip. A screw driver in the brake disk then rotate until it touches the caliper will stop rotation mate instead of the brake pedal

Thing is the mixed emotions the frustration when something is not moving, but the satisfaction when it finaly moves it will all be worth it when you are driving the car knowing you have sorted it all out, you will get there

Some tips : 1. Bolt with nuts, always try loosen nuts, if you can get to them. 2. The swaybar, try nutdriver full tilt when you anyways gonna replace them, if you should keep them allen key is the way to go. If your stuck just cut them off 😂 3. Antirust spray and heat is your friend! ( heat aslong it not can melt anything ) 4. Watch youtube videos if your not sure, take that time can save you time :) 5. If something not comes easy, better just take off more things to help, sometimes the more job is the faster job, and on this car, they made the suspention and all that good and easy. ( ofc not easy if you never done it ) 6: focus on one side, and never give up unless you dont have the right tools or parts! Good luck, and would be fun to see next time when it just will be better and better. Look at boostedboiz, started in a small garage not know what he do, now he do engines, gearbox, sick welds and more! I would love to follow the progress on your channel too 😁

Good to see all the positive feedback , I'm a bit like you and I'm 67 learning the dark arts of welding and shifting rusted nuts . My only advice is patience a good heat gun and try and stop for a brew before the' big hammer' comes out, took me a while to learn that one as my friendly mechanic will tell you. Well done .

It helps to get the right tools! On a rusty old car clean the exposed threads with a wire brush, a big durga durga gun helps.

Great video. The frustration in palpable although, as you have already said, you have learned a lot by doing this. Looking forward to the next chapter.

Well done sir , you growing in skills , tools , and experience, keep the content coming

Joel, that new ball joint that was not aiming straight down. You should be able to move it back so its facing down. It'll be stiff but it will move. If you've got it still try it. They're not in a fixed position. I moved my Z4s ones to get them in to the hole. They're stiff which is a good thing. I've got to replace my nearside wishbone on the Z4 as the ball joint failed the mot

Drop links ....brake the ball out of the casing then grab the ball with some vice grips anchor the grips undo the nut easy...your replacing them anyway so dont worry about destroying them. and the ball joint is what it says its a ball in a joint it wasnt bent just moved in the casing 😉

Ball joint are meant to bend and rotate, the ball joint is fine. Lossen the drive shaft bolt a bit with the socket left on hammer the socket it should move the driveshaft. You will struggle to get the control back on with the weight of the suspension suggest you get the two bolts undone holding the suspension strut to the hub and separate that, it makes it much easier to the the control arm in. I speak from experience only s80 and v70.

Balljoint are totally fine, its just hard to move, but should move like that! I am from Sweden and are reparing Volvos all the time, a good advise to fix hard sitting bolts is to heat them upp with a propane fire thing 🙂 First use WD40 and let it penetrate, use WD40 again and then FIRE FIRE and MORE FIRE! Then use WD40 again and losen the bolt and fasten the bolt and lose it again. Good luck!

Good work Joel. I have had many Volvos in the past and replaced many lower arms. There a pain, on the lower ball joints they are supposed to move around, if grab hold of it you should be able move it back to level. But it looks like u have lost a lower clip from it. If you need a hand mate, I’m more than happy to help. I have just replaced all the suspension on my V40.

It’s nice to see someone else putting money into and repairing a high mileage car it makes me feel that mine will be worth doing in the end. I have a 2002 bmw 320ci convertible on 254,000 miles and yes on a petrol engine! It’s very clean and tidy for the age just has a few tiny problems I keep telling myself just scrap it or sell it for cheap it’s not worth fixing but the more I fix it the more I love it and love driving it! So Thankyou for giving me motivation for getting my high mileage hero project finished :)

it's a ball joint. It moves. That's what joints do ;) Move it back straight and you'll be fine. Also, a small nit pick: in a previous video you were talking about lug nuts. XC90s don't use lug nuts - they use wheel bolts.

Just stick a decent screw driver in the vented part of the discs to stop it spinning 👍🏼

I can relate to how you are feeling, working on my own cars started off much same, but you learn by doing. Next time you try you will be better prepared. A rotary powered wire brush to take rust off bolts and threads, a big hammer and some kind of puller kit goes a long way when working on suspension.

No need to use the brake pedal to jam the front wheels just drop a screwdriver into the cooling fins on the disc and jam it up against the brake caliper.

Great to see you moving up the learning curve my man, we've all been there. You'll be rebuilding engines before you know it. Stick at it! 👌👌👌

You need to use heat to expand the abs ring to slide it over the driveshaft end. The ball joints are ment to move, they dont bend.

This takes me back to when I could not afford to take cars to a dealership and worked them myself, discovered ball joint splitters, bearing pullers, and other specialist tools along the way. The night before I got married I was stuck in a shared garage trying to fix my VX490, about 10pm! I gave up and left the vehicle. Since then it has always been to the dealership. Great learning curve, know the battles you can win.

Hi Joel, thank god I'm not the only one that gets many problems when I try to repair my 20 year old car. I can completely understand where you are coming from as I try to do similar stuff on my old BMW x5 which I love dearly. You fix one problem & then realise when its all back together that you have missed some component out & have to strip it down again. Look forward to part 3 & good luck with it.

Good job - stick with it! - Often having someone else around to bounce questions and ideas off helps i found in the past. Also a really old rusted suspension is as tough as it gets often!. Lucky you can drive away in a different car as often taking a break then coming back helps which you cant do if its your daily driver!.

learning new things is brill and experience to get hands on, It very brave to repair your lovely Volvo without any experience which shows your great determine to keep your car. the control arm , it a right bugger to get it out after undo on the ball joint but after you undo both bush mount, as soon these two came off the control arm slid right off the ball joint. I seen you bolted the bush mounts on first then tried to fit into the ball joint but it proven to be very difficult, I'd undo the bush mounts put into the ball joint and lose hold by bolt and reattach the bush mount, hope that'll helps (seen this vid after 23 hours posted mark)

in future, you don't need to make some sort of contraption to press the brake pedal, just put a screwdriver into the vent of the brake disc edited to say that you can just push the ball joint back again, but if you don't know, you don't know, nothing to get upset about as it's not ruined

a ball joint is like ball in a socket bud, it is meant to move around, this is why it's used. It's not bent (it would take some serious power to bend one) keep going though it's coming together.

This is a true representation of DIY mechanic on an old car. Everything 'should' be easy but every nut you even think about lookibg at is seized.

My pet Volvo mechanic changed the bushes on one side of my S80. Had a hell of a job, said he wouldn't do it again, but just change the lower control arms as one piece.

Loving the effort mate. I wouldn’t know where to start with half of those jobs, respect you so much for trying especially on such an old seized up Volvo too.

Ball joints are meant to move like the, you may have to "bend" them so they will align with the control arm Also the drop links there is normally either an alien key at the nut end so you can hold the shaft still whike yiu undo using a spanner or there can be a box just the other side (by the gatter (rubber) which may need to pushed away to revalal it)where a spanner can be used to hold it, also you may need to do the same to tighten the nut. Also you may need fo do the same while tighting the ball joint. Tools to invest in ball joint splitter. Blow touch (heating rusty bolts to red hot and trying to ubdo them while hot will normally win. Also dont use power toolsto initially start releasing any bolts a racket or breaker breaker bar os far better

When in doubt oxi acetylene torch. Can't be tight if its a liquid mate. Great job by the way. Love the content

The ball joint swivels in its housing , buy a cheap angle grinder and some cutting discs and some goggles and cut the drop links off , put the ball joint pin in the arm then bolt the ball joint to the hub and buy a Haynes manual , it will show you how many jobs can be done easier

Tip for you mate, you can wedge a flat screwdriver in the brake disc against the carrier and that will stop the driveshafts from turning, Also buy a Brass drift and a decent size Ball Pein Hammer and you’ll have a good chance of freeing off the drive shaft, the brass is softer than the cv joint so won’t damage it, then you can either just chisel ABS ring off or just cut a small slot in it and then chisel it off. I’m sure you’ll manage. Good luck and well done for giving it a go.

As you stated, you can't beat hands on experience. Even when it doesn't go right, which is more often than not, it's all learning. I started working on my own cars in 1978 when a garage ripped me off. It takes time but you do get better. RU-vid is a great resource for novices, but also be aware of other people not knowing what they are doing but who think they do! Best of luck.

Get a grindette and cut the drop link off, just make sure new ones have new bolts. If the ABS rings are showing no damage leave them alone

Don’t use the torque wrench for anything other than final tightening to a torque setting. Any other use and it’ll quickly become worthless.

I can only mirror a lot of the other comments, good on you for getting stuck in. I’ve never been brave enough to work on a car I own, putting in some coolant is enough for me to feel like I’m a proper mechanic😂😂😂. Fingers crossed for the MOT. Oh, and liking the outtakes bit. Maybe do a whole video of outtakes as a Christmas special?

One small but very serious note. You shouldn’t use the bolts to pull the ball joint into the hub. It deforms the plate and the ball joint doesn’t seat fully (even if only by a tiny bit). First big pothole and the bolts will come lose. Use a big deep socket to hammer the ball joint in - then tighten the bolts. It is still worth putting the bolts in first as they can help to guide it in square. At the very least you need to recheck the torque on the bolts after you drive the car until you are 100% positive that the joint is fully seated. The odds of anything bad happening are pretty slim but significantly more than if you do it right

Hey Joel, those rings…. Jack up the car and rotate the wheel/driveshaft. If the rings have a shiny spot on them it’s where the rust from the driveshaft underneath has expanded the ring and it’s kissing the ABS sensor. An easier option is to undo the retaining bolt on the ABS sensor, put a thin washer underneath the sensor to pack it out a little off the ring. Worked perfectly on my BMW and a lot easier than fitting new rings or a driveshaft. If there are no shiny spots on the rings it’s going to be the ABS sensor which only being one bolt and the sensor wiggles free, is also a damn site easier than replacing those rings. Hope this helps Eddie

Just a bit of advice. Don’t ever use a torque wrench to undo tight bolts. It’ll cock it up in no time. Tempting when it’s the longest bar you’ve got. But not worth the risk

before undoing old bolts always get a wire brush and clean the threads then put something like wd40 and leave it to soak .thanks for the video

When your struggling with rusty seized nuts and bolts try quenching method heat it up until its red hot pour cold water on it works every time

When your doing the drop links since your replacing them get a decent set of molle grips on the back where the ball is and clamp it. Use the impact on the nut take it off fully or enough to get a grinder in behind the nut and cut it saves alot of effort.

Use a blowtorch to loosen things like the ABS rings. Heat expands the metal and cracks any bond formed by surface rust.

Congratulations on getting on with it - been there and most definitely done that myself and no matter how daunting it just needs to be one job at a time! Some words from the wise though - use the right tool for the job and your life will be so much easier. Please don't use torque wrenches unnecessarily, they may be big and chunky but they are also expensive to replace when you wreck them, a basic breaker bar is always a good choice when you've got a stuck bolts. A cheap(ish) impact gun is a much better choice, a mains powered gun might even be a better option than a more expensive battery powered gun if you have a mains socket on hand. It will save a lot of heartache from rounded off rusty bolt heads

Great work Joel. I know how you feel. I remember filming a tutorial for a rear disc and pad change on my old 1 series BMW, but I had to change them in the winter -10c, snow outside, lack of light , a bad back, no electric all these annoying set backs including the batteries on my camera not lasting long at all. It really did test my nerves, but I got there in the end. Keep up with this learning and you will go far. :)

Hahaha them ball joint are supposed to bend you just put nut on end and use a spanner to move it back to the straight position. The drive shaft you loosen the bolt a few turns then take a hammer to it and give it a few light taps. Now these Volvos are basically a ford mondeo mk6 running gear and suspension parts are mainly the same. I do suggest using some copper slip or grease when putting back together and use it on wheels so they don’t stick to the brake discs. I run a fleet of mondeos and a Volvo v60 d4 as Taxi’s they all have high mileage and repairs I do myself in our workshop as a mechanic there not bad to work on as long as you use some copper grease on bolts so next time they are not rusted up.

you need to wiggle the hub aswell as prising down the arm to get it in joel and the droplink also needs a torque bit in the middle and a spanner on the nut to undo it...hope this helps, and also leave the hub bolt on the drive shaft just loosen ot out about an inch and give it a smack in with a lump hammer this will bring the spline and you will be able to get to the ring make a cutting in the ring and heat up the new ring and should just slide on..

You might have sorted it out so for, but worth putting it here maybe for someone else trying to do it. Drop links - where there’s their nut, there’s a little hole for an allan key to go in, so when you try to unscrew the nut you have to hold the screw with the allan key so it won’t spin. But by the looks of these particular ones, I would just cut them off with a grinder and install the new ones

In case you haven't fixed it by now, the trick with these Volvos is to either loosen the top strut bolts (not the middle one which you need a special tool for) to allow the strut some lateral movement to get the balljoint in or get a strong mate with a ratchet strap across the front of the car to haul the strut in to allow the ball joint and control arm to link, even then it needs some real effort to get the everything to fully line up. Don't think you can just push it across, you'll knacker yourself and achieve nothing. Also don't believe the youtube videos that show it all easily going in, if the suspension had enough slack in it to allow that to happen it wouldn't be safe.

Still using a claw hammer then.... you building a house or fixing a car?? Need a proper ball ended hammer or a 4lb club hammer to help break those joints. Hope you didn't throw away that new Ball Joint as they're meant the swivel hence the name BALL JOINT!!!! I do this for a living and you chose a properly hard car to fix. We struggle to fit those arms at times and we've tools galore. Good on ya through for tackling these jobs and trust me frustration happens!!!

I remember my first Volvo P2 chassis wishbone change took about three days on the driveway, sympathise massively. You're absolutely right about getting stuck in. Those bushes wear FAST so I can whip 'em on and off in no time now!

Ball joints are supposed to move like that ,don’t panic 👍👍👍

Mate you had a right mare. This reminds me of when I attempted a DIY job to spray paint my Audi grille black. About 4 attempts and £120 spent and looked absolutely crap. Good on you for trying mate, love your content.

The lower ball joint is designed to swivel circular, and to an extreme angle. There doesn't look to be anything wrong, unless you unevenly tightened it down and badly distorted the flat flange face. The ball joint should be extremely stiff to move when new, as most have a tight fitting nylon friction material inside the ball and socket. They are also a snug fit in the hub assembly. It's best to fit the lower arm to the chassis first, then ease it down and gently tap the joint pin to align with the lower arm hole. Then, fit the antiroll bar linkage. Ideally, have the vehicle weight on the bottom arm before fully tightening the bolts, to avoid undue stress and twist on the rubber bushes. You should use threadlock on any bolts that don't have a Nyloc nut, or other locking method. You may need to loosen, or remove the driveshaft end fixing to allow the splined end to move. If not, be very careful not to pull the suspension upright leg out too far, or you risk pulling the CV joint apart or pulling the driveshaft out of the differential, damaging the oil seal.

To remove the driveshaft from the hub you need to unbolt the tie rod ends (and maybe the struts) from the hub to give yourself enough movement to pop it out. I did a ball joint replacment on axle stands and it was easier to remove the hub entirely from the car.

Nice work Joel, most of the suspension jobs I've done on my Escort & Capri take longer and more effort than you think. Looking forward to Part 3 and also loving the Pedal Steel Guitar track at the beginning of the video.

I feel your pain - I had to do this job on both sides of an XC70 (same platform). It is doable - trick is to remove the two bolts on the strut, and leave the driveshaft bolt out, then you can put it all back together - it is hard work though. I had a trapped nerve in my leg for about a month afterwards (very painful), from doing it on my driveway.

Been religiously waiting for this!

Well done man you did wonderful and this is how it really is on cars so thank you man 👍👍. Excellent vid

Good for you for trying. I finally broke free all the bolts on my 2004 Saab and got the discs and pads done. I was well pleased 😊