I was curious. Just found that on internet: Ruggerini Engines are now part of the Kohler Diesel engines family. Ruggerini parts are fully interchangeable with Kohler Diesel. I hope this help.
Most marine diesel engines or generators are marinized versions of much more common diesel engines whether it's from Kohler, Mitsubishi, Volvo etc. They are converted by yanmar, beta, etc. In many cases the marine parts are several times the price of the non-marine version, but judicious decision making can help you determine when to pick which part.
I was thinking it is probably not a one off design. Maybe a clone or licensed copy of a common diesel engine. A small company making generators might not design their own engine.
"...It's a marine generator, not positive of that yet. No, it doesn't generate Marines!" As a son of a Marine, I laughed harder at that than I should have. X)
Count yourself lucky. I've seen (2nd hand, wasn't in the shop myself) pistons so stuck they pulled the sleeve out. (press in new sleeve, good to go.) I've heard stories of having to machine pistons out. (I don't have that sort of equipment.)
Really enjoyed the video. I would have given up long before that and hauled it back to the scrapyard but you persevered and gave us hope that it might run again. Thanks!
Hello, I have learned so much about small engine repair, and I think that's why you find so much along the road to fix, people shy away from trying to fix gas powered machines, every man that's has a gas powered machine should watch your videos, keep them coming.
That just blows me away that the piston didn't just blow apart especially when you had that puller bolt screwed right down on the top of it. Good content mustie really enjoyed it !!!!
Thanks Mustie1, your inspiring vids made me $50 Friday. I found a go cart next to a dumpster a few months ago and naturally had to "cart" it home. It was fairly complete except a seat, back rest and filter housing. The engine was branded Montgomery Ward. I cleaned the fly wheel (WD & sand paper), gapped the coil (with a business card), cleaned the carb and tank, put in a couple of cups of 30w and some 2 cycle down the Sparkalator hole (Thanks Vise Grip Garage for the narrative). I gave four pulls on the rip cord and monty came to life. a couple of hours later, with some fresh fall air in the tires and me setting on the back rest bar (NOT recommended), I road it on to a trailer for a new life with a jubilant 9 year old.
Very good to get the piston out! It takes true experience and care to know when to stop with one technique and move on to the next. I'm very excited to see the continuation!
Fifteen minutes in I thought this would morph from a "Will it run?" to "Will it Float?" video! Thanks for showing and telling us the process. That is the real value in your videos!
Mustie, you have much more patience than I ever had. I would have made quick work of it. Scrap pile. Thats why I like watching your videos. You don't give up easy. Hope you get it to run. Thanks for the video.
This video is the pure definition of perseverance. I learned a lot of good troubleshooting techniques this morning while drinking coffee. Thanks as always Mustie!
The Listeroid directions talk of how to adjust the length of piston to head is to use multiple layers of paper gaskets between the cylinder jug and crank case "Place two small pieces of lead on top of piston above the line of Gudgeon Pin and not beneath the valve or Transfer port. Tighten down Cylinder Head and turn Piston slowly past Top Dead Centre. Remove Cylinder Head and measure thickness of lead. If this does not fall between 1.14 to 1.27 mm or 0.045 in. or 0.050 in. set the clearance. The clearance may be adjusted by the use of paper joints placed between the Cylinder Block and the Crankcase"
That hand pump on the side of the engine is so that you can drain the sump. When the engine is fitted in the hull of a boat you can't get underneath it.
I had a three gallon tub with a twelve volt pump on top. Drop the tube all the way down the dipstick hole and your oil was out in less than three minutes. Perkins 4-108m.
Awesome video mustie I'm happy to see you didn't give up on trying to free the piston as other people would have. You put alot of talent in the work that you do and that's what makes your videos great to watch.
Was it just me or was anyone else squinting and scrunching up their face when he was cracking on that press?! 😂🤣 That piston was not wanting to leave its home!
@@wes3428 after all the noise fully expected cyl walls to crack ,mustie piston rings seem ok,,i am under the table shouting drill piston out this is well known engine in europe spares ok quality italian product
I always thought that using a spanner/wrench to provide extra leverage on an Allen key was a terrible thing to do but now I know that it's officially approved!
Whew what a challenge that piston was to get out. I can not believe the sleeve is in such good looking condition. So glad it did not explode and turn into an IED. Looking forward to seeing the man getting it up and running. If anyone can--he can. Thanks for the video.
a year ago I worked on a John Deere compact diesel tractor that was a theft recovery that had been driven into a pond. and the tractor had set awhile.. so all three cylinders were full of water and rust. along with one bent rod and cracked piston. I tried something that seemed like a long shot, and that was filling the cylinders with WD 40 rust remover soak. it took like 3 days of soaking. The first day an a half nothing appeared to be really happening.. but then all of a sudden it started to slowly take on the solution and I had to top it off every few hours. before I knew it, I was able to get a little bit of movement out of the pistons.. and then it finally broke free. I was able to rebuild the engine and she ran like a new one when I was complete.
Yeah, a rust remover probably would have gotten to this piston given time. That's what was holding it dry. Each layer removed goes lower. In fact, that's probably the smart thing to do. Though the ATF and acetone was a good idea, just not in this situation.
My uncle has had locked up engines of the farm show type that he would throw in a tank of water...takes a while but the rust will give way, think he might have said one took 6 months. I believe it works as a solvent and the lower levels of oxygen don't build the rust....
Hey guys, if mustie1 keeps his schedule like he did last week we may only have to wait until wednesday ! Im enjoying these two or more videos a week he's started posting !!
I am a mechanic here in Brazil, and when the rust takes over I successfully use the juice of the pure lemon, its acid softens and unglues everything, in this case you would have to cover the piston head with the juice and leave it overnight , try it, it's worth it ..! hug.
Isn't it impressive?! Rust physically takes up more space than the iron or steel it came out of. So, not only is it a rough and very high friction surface, it also jams up fitted parts really tight as it swells and jacks the 2 surfaces away from each other. Kinda hard to get that piston or bolt out when there's swollen rust trying hard to physically squeeze its way out of the gap between the surfaces. 😱 Heat works because the expansion opens that gap back up a little and relieves the pressure jamming everything up. Heat it and beat it.
I’m nowhere at the level of Mustie, just a tinkerer mostly. Anyway my brother dropped off his old 50cc Honda MR50 a few years back for me to fix. The rear axle had a spacer the just wouldn’t budge. I couldn’t get the rear wheel off. I managed to get a claw type pulley remover on it to press the axle through (hooked around the axle/swing arm mount) and that didn’t budge it. Ended up cutting the axle. I still have the chunk of axle with the spacer rust welded onto it. It was never going to come off.
I thought for sure that the cylinder was going to be pitted. I’m totally amazed that you coaxed it apart intact! Looking forward to the next installment!
Can't wait for part two! After surviving that piston being pressed out, I'm dying to see it run. Thanks for another great video Mustie! Hope all is well.
Wow! Wasn’t expecting that to come out in one piece. Having a multi Ton press pushing its full weight as well! Jeez! If anyone can get this going again it’s you! Excited to see what you make of this. Or if it makes something of you. On the edge of my seat now for Pt 2
Great video Mustie, one of your most interesting in my opinion. These small Italian built Diesel engines are a quality piece of equipment, they should give you a lifetime of service if properly maintained. Its downfall seems to be direct cooling of probably salt water, which will eventually corrode everything, an intercooler for cooling and it would probably running today. I would think that parts should be still available, but you will let us know.
53:18 "Shadoobie".... Glad to hear Lilly is needing attention, now if we could see her now and then, but we do enjoy seeing whatever needs work or fixing. Thanks for the ride along.
MASE is an Italian company, still in business, that produces marine generators among others. They used Ruggerini engines - like this one - in several of the smaller units. As @thaimaxcan indicated, Ruggerini is now part of Kohler. Edit: this failure mode is relatively common in these direct-cooled smaller engines. It could be from water from the exhaust, as another commenter mentioned, but it could also be from the head gasket (for whatever reason they get run without seawater -> overheat -> HG leak is a classic) or even the castings themselves (though cracks, in this case, are generally pretty visible). Most parts are fairly available, though the head castings are not IIRC.
Those gaskets between the block and crankcase act as shims to set the height of the block and in turn the space between the piston tdc and the cylinder head which equals the compression ratio - critical in getting it to run and run right! If the block is too low thé compression ratio will be too high which means pre ignition. Block too high means not enough compression to run efficiently or even start. That engine is raw water cooled which means the water the boat is floating in is circulated through the block, head and exhaust manifold. There are cleaning solutions for removing the corrosion and crud that builds up in the cooling passages but I bet a couple hours in the ultrasonic will do. I'd bet that the exhaust Mani is trash though, they're a consumable in this type of application.
And the exhaust manifold is a common entry point for the water into the engine. They crack internally and then the water enters when the engine shuts down if the engine exhaust is not above the waterline. Many are not as running the exhaust below the waterline muffles the sound of them.
The pack of gaskets under cylinder are shims , Diesel engines a very sensitive on piston head/head height ( combustion chamber) so cause the same studs are used to hold the cylinder head and cylinder and crankcase together they add shims to keep that heigh.Others rely on different head gaskets thikness.
On a V8 Crossley 2 stroke diesel I'm working on the little end is bolted to the con rod and is shimmed to alter piston height. The pistons are about 10 inches across.
This reminds me of a Peugeot two-stroke scooter my dad and i tried fixing. Thinking they ran straight gas but not sure. It never budged; piston became one with the jug. I do wish we had a press then as it might've had a chance. Hammers and heat and every other small home garage tool just couldn't get it. Really wish we could've. Thanks for the vicarious closure!
The other fact is that cast iron, raw water cooled elbow is a short life item- in sea water just a few years. When they fail water gets in the cylinders. OR if the boat's exhaust system does not have a proper "loop" above the water line (engines usually installed partly below the "water line" ) they can ingest water back through the exhaust system. I have been working on marine stuff for 30 plus years.
Yeah this engine seems like it was working fine, but then it was suddenly not used and sat for a long time. It probably got water in the combustion chamber which seeped down and rusted the piston. The generator portion may have an issue which is why the engine fell into disuse even though it ran. Perhaps the injection pump has failed. We'll see soon!
And that folks is why you can’t crank too much on a non-starting Diesel engine in marine service. There isn’t enough thrust to push the water out of the exhaust pipe unless it is running and it can back up on you and into the cylinders and bye bye engine. Hydrostatic lock can bend your rods and other disasters.
That was quite an effort. I've done some pressing on high pressure air compressor cylinder liners and they take a bigger press than your 20 ton. The sound of the first release is similar to what your piston did. In fact, putting the new liner in requires it to be cooled to -20F or colder to allow it to be a shrink fit. Enjoyed your content.
@@stevejette2329 hehe ooh nooo! I have a issue with the oil pump. It is a partner r12 with a cam on the Main shaft, pushes a rod that pushes on the oilpump, located at the bottom on the saw. Need some advice and help with parts... If not salvageable i Will mount it on a cart for the kids.. 90cc, 5.1hp... 6000rpm...
Thank you for a very entertaining Video. I much enjoyed watching your work. Looking Forward to the next part. I hope you are able to find gaskets for it.
You show more ingenuity than just 'brute force and ingnorance'. The 'brute force' seemed to be the last resort.... and yet, the piston came out without being ruined. Good job! BTW the pressing was a nice demonstration of stick-slip (Coulomb friction).
I'd have bought that for $20. I've been toying with the idea of running a small diesel generator on waste engine oil for a while now. Something this size would be perfect. Of course I don't have a 20 ton press.
hey brother, been watching since the beginning and have never been dissapointed....thanks for all the entertainment. if you are ever in western scotland the beers are on me.
I was totally immersed in that. Actually said "aaaw!" out loud when I realised we'd have to be wait for the next bit. I'm going to be dreaming at night about the the cleaned and polished parts that are going back in that engine.
Man, that was intense! Watching the whole process and the different approaches you took was like watching a suspense thriller and when that sucker finally popped, I feel like my team just won the super bowl!
Hi a few years back 12 yrs of more ago I bought a diesel gen set from harbor freight was a great generator however the mice had eaten a corner of the fewer tank the fuel destroyed the motor mount causing the engine shaft to the generator to snap. I gave to a friend he somehow was able to weld the shaft and is still in use today that is pretty good engine 😁 enjoy your videos thanks, I’m an old timer 82 yrs old.
Always use penetrating oil when disassembling, especially if there's rust. It really does help, even if you think it's not - remember that every little bit helps. It might save you some broken screws, scratched surfaces. First thing is that it looses rust buildup - corrosion products have higher volume than metal itself, rusted parts literally swell up because of that rust layer forming. That is main reason of seizing, especially for screws and bolts. Moreover, rust increase friction. Last but not least, there is phenomenon called cold welding - that happens when you have two flat surfaces touching, especially when pressed or under vacuum. Once parts have been left pressed against each without something between, they can adhere to themselves. Follow that with corrosion, and you have perfect set up for disaster ;) Adding some penetrant to creep between stuck parts may not free them up immediately as rust conversion need some time, but will at least decrease friction during disassembly.
Hi Darren At the risk of starting a ‘barney’ on here and with the greatest respect to yourself, might I comment re the wee tabs on the big end journal Babbitt metal shells. Those tabs align the shells axially within the conrod and cap. What actually prevents them from spinning within the rod journal is the interference fit of the steel backed shell and the hole formed by the rod and the bearing cap. I remember 20 odd years, doing hydraulically powered installations on two low loading trailers to transport forklifts for the Royal Navy. At the heart of the installation was that same Ruggerini donkey engine, coupled to a hydraulic pump and reservoir. They were excellent engine, although damned expensive. Your channel is the best I watch on RU-vid. Please keep them coming👍🏻🙂. Best regards from Central Scotland, stay safe. Wullie
That had to have been thee most stuck piston i ever seen. But amazing how clean the bore still looks after all that... You'd think it would be carnage....
I liked this video. It gave me something entertaining to watch as I measure my main bearing clearance in my 7.3 powerstroke. Also obviously this wouldn't have worked on this one. But I learned a technique from an older guy on RU-vid getting an engine unseized without tearing it down. He removed the heads and used a long metal tube and a hammer on each piston to shock each one into moving. He didn't hit very hard and he didn't have any piece if wood or rubber. He said you don't want to force it to move but instead shock the metal. Then he slowly turned the crank back and forth until it was all moving freely.
Not quite powerful enough... Take an air tank like those from china freight tap one end with pipe threads place that end up on a turkey frier place a ball valve in the original port (to be used as a fill port) , install a T fitting with pressure relief valve and pressure gauge on one end of T fitting (THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE MUST BE INSTALLED), install a ball valve with hose on the other end of the T fitting, install a piece of steel line just big enough to fit into the ports you're looking to clean, fill the tank with water nearly to the top open the hose valve and heat (hose valve is to control steam flow rate)
I bet he still does, but you have to remember that he's on youtube and he has better respect for his listeners and subscribers. He just does it off camera
Bruit force and ignorance over comes most anything. I was half expecting the piston to shatter in the press but you beat it into submission. Kinda figured you would be doing a Star Trek Scotty voice at the press. "Ah Captain, I am giving her all shes got". LOL
@@notapplicable430 I think he means people like Chavez, Hussein and Stalin. You know actual dictators. not democratically elected leader you disaprove off.
Hi, i'm from italy. i live near the original factory. here you can find all kind of parts for these engines. Now they are part of Lombardini (kholer group) but the factory still exist and spare parts are available. if you need something in particular, let me know. i can send them to you :)
I have an Italian made diesel in my truck, Great motor. Sorry to hear Lombardini is part of Kohler - which used to be a good American made engine company but seems to make disposable engines now.
When the pressure from the press was building and the sound of the springs stretching reminded me of WW II submarine movies on a deep dive then the first movement of the piston was like the hull rivers letting go.
