Can Single LifePo4 Cells 26650 START A CAR..??? (Testing) 

Nice, 4s2p? Or 8 in series? 7 years is an impressive longevity!

I have found some but are0v some say they can be revived like lithium can I have tested lithium cells but not lifepo4 hope I can to do projects .

@@imperialsecuritybureau6037 8 in series. (total 26.4 volts). its a makita 24volt drill, so, perfect!

Good idea ! I liked it ! Thanks !

Great info mate 👍 Would it be possible for u to share some pics of packs u made?

please make a video that your great inovation. this could be very interesting

Motorbike will damage A123 without any protection circuit.

@@Sopheris I use an active balancer, to mainain the same voltage over each cell, but I do not use over-current protection circuit. If I decide to use such, I must withstand at least 100A, which is a lot. so far so good - 4000 km without any damage and with cells properly balanced :)

@@taki_maciek4799 what bike do you have? Used four cells in series? What did you use to make the series connection? Spotweld or soldered? Thanks

@@Servicehans Hi! My bike is CBR600RR. I use the 4s2p configuration because the bike requires more current when starting a hot engine. Cold engine can be easily started by a battery in 4s1p configuration. I've previously tested such configuration and it turned out not reliable, but it may be also the case, that internal connection of the previous battery weren't conductive enough. I use spotwelding and 0.35 mm steel tape for interconnection.

My friend VladGoro25, which cells 32700 you have..? first check max current output of these cells...

I just ordered 4x 32700 cells (liitokala 6500mah from aliexpress). After a lot of searching I still could not find a CCA rating, so I gambled and ordered. This video makes me hopeful! It's for my motorcycle, so should be less demanding than a car.

You balance charge them

LITOKALA Rated around 40A peak so it won't be even close to start a car.. a 50cc scooter maybe..

Any luck? I'd bet they probably wouldn't start even the smallest cars.

Hi.. they didn't even warm...

with such low IR and such a short amount of time outputting large current they probably didn't even get 5 Celsius above ambient

Yes of curse is better with more parallel batteries, on this video i test them to see how strong is this Lifepo4 batteries...

lol... who cares about 2000 cycles when it's used as a jump starter.... 400 years life!

@@EVCustoms how are those cells today still use them or have them in a project ? I did a lipo but this are abit more safe when using in warmer conditions

Olá onde acho estás bateria ?

This batteries doesn’t like negative temperatures guys , so this going to be a problem in cold months of the year . Also maybe isn’t bag idea to put some super / ultra capacitors in parallel . This will lower the load on the batteries during the cranking and the voltage would drop less so the engine will start faster and better .

I am waiting for this BMS now 2 months... :)

should not be needed max voltage for a normal alternator is 14.5V, Charge voltage for a 4s LifePo4 is 14.6V under normalt conditions there would be no need for a bms ofc a bms never hurts

​@@storm4710 How do u ensure individual cells dont overcharge if u use alternator to charge the 4s battery pack?

@@SocialPerspective101 a 4S balance board will do that, But in general the closer the batteries get to full the more they refuse to accept the electrons, So under normal circumstances there should not be an issue with over charging single cells

@@storm4710 The voltage doesn't matter in this case, as the current would be WAY, WAY too high..... It's not how you charge lithum batteries. As you have to limit current as well.

Yes

ANR26650 M1B Max Discharge (Continuous) 70A Max Discharge (Burst 10 Seconds) 120A Technically if they can support 120A for a 10 second burst a much faster burst (or more accurately it would probably be "pulse") of maybe double that for 1-2 seconds?? At this point its a matter of your connections whether that be nickel strip, nickel copper sandwich, large silicone wire in excess of 8AWG or 10mm2, pure copper ring terminals or lugs, etc. A continuous draw of >50A would heat up any "normal" nickel strip use to connect batteries in series and parallel and if it is nickel plated steel.....well good luck with that kind of resistance. At that point I would be looking at doing a nickel copper sandwich and this is one of the few times where I will advocate for nickel plated steel over pure nickel. Since the copper has such a low resistance you're relying on the nickel to be the bread of the sandwich that gives you something a hobby level spot welder actually might have a chance with. So top layer is nickel plated steel, followed by a thin strip of pure copper, and then the bottom layer is the steel can of the cell. My understanding is the current will be much more likely to weld the pieces of steel together since the copper's resistance is so low it is just passing right on through the copper but if the copper is thin enough (0.1mm) the steel welds might be significant enough to weld thin copper. The catch is: NEW cells have a 70A/120A rating. There are a lot of used cells out there and not very many places to buy new (LithiumWerks is the new rebranding of A123) ANR26650 cells. New cells go for around $9 each so if you're paying less than $6 you can be damn sure they are fakes or they are used. These cells are VERY hard to fake due to their unique anode and cathode physical appearance so I would only buy LithiumWerks cells since those are much less likely to be used. The new name isn't very old so I think it would be unlikely any LithiumWerks cells sold as new would be used cells. There's probably hundreds of thousands of old A123 branded M1A and M1B cells out there. They come in 96 pack electric bus modules, 48 cell pack server/disk array backup modules, and 10 cell modules (not sure of application). I got lucky and got a 96 cell electric bus pack of M1B's testing at damn near 100%. Ah was 100.1% but Wh was 98.7%. A lot of the electric bus packs got run pretty hard and its quite common to see people reporting 60% to 70% capacity remaining on them. BatteryHookup got a mixed bunch of 96 cell and 48 cell packs for a while, heard some were shit, some were great. BCH has some really worn out electric bus packs but their 48 cells packs I've heard test really well. Honestly the 96 cell packs are usually so cheap that its worth it to buy one and cut it into thirds to make 12V batteries with 20Ah capacity. Some one Ebay right now from the guy I got my pack from. Super super cheap.

​@@ericklein5097 So what are u suggesting to connect the 4 cells?

Yeah my friend... nice and powerfull engines.... 4 separate air inputs..

Hi.. 600A pulse discharge.. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000294181677.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9Wt54f

@@EVCustoms link says “no longer available”, will continue to look for one

many BMS's have a 1, 2, or 3 second window before OCP kicks in. A 50A BMS might even have a pulse current of 150 or 200A for 10 seconds

Or just don't use a BMS. These cells stay balanced on their own quite well and if you overdischarge them you're not very smart. A little voltmeter on a switch is easy enough to do.

​@@ericklein5097 So can we start a car with 4 LifePo4 cells connected in series?

What is the CCA of the original battery of your car? These cells are rated for 120A pulse discharge. My 3.0L I6 car comes with a 600 CCA battery, so it would need 5 cells in parallel, or 4S5P configuration.

Hi friend, specs of the battery says normal rate 30C about 70Amps and max output was 210A i think for some seconds ..

@@EVCustoms those nickel strips are rated for about 10 to 15 amps for continuous, but about 30 to 40 amps for a few seconds and you doubled them up. But, you should add about 4 or 5 more strips to the pack, then the voltage won't sag as much.

Why not a BMS that balances lol?

The bms would cost more than the battery pack!

BMS usually do balancing lol. and make sure it supports over 200 amps, otherwise it won't start the car because detected as overload.

@@samueladitya1729 not for my car.. it's 998ccm so you'd crank it with your bare thumb

Not really. As long as you make sure you use LiFePo4 battery cells, and not one of the other lithium chemistries. With the other ones you could start a (wild) fire. With LiFePO4 all you can damage is the battery (in a non violent way). And just to be sure, check the voltage on the current battery while to lawnmower is running (at full throttle) to make sure it does not go over 15V. 14-14.5V would be ideal. Going over 15V will degrade the battery a little bit. Going over 16.8V will degrade the battery a lot more. Less than 14V and your battery will reach full charge. NOTE: This is valid for LiFePO4 ONLY!

@@JohnDoe-ex8gf He could use LTO which has silly high discharge rates of 10C to 40C but it is quite expensive. It does last for a literal lifetime though. 20,000 cycles is what you should expect out of most LTO cells that aren't beaten to death with high C discharge cycles.

Actually as soon as you start the engine the alternator would recharge the batteries

@@dantronics1682 Jump starter is meant to be disconnected after starting

@@SocialPerspective101 I know that, most people who jump start a car will make sure the car is running before disconecting the jump starter pack. in that time the alternator can pump at least 50 amps into it

No. Incorrect. However, given your situation, I'd recommend you disconnect your battery when returning home. In fact you can have a battery disconnect installed for you. When you get home, you disconnect. When you want to drive, you connect it and go.

I wouldn't recommend 18650s as theyre lithium ion and will over heat and potentially explode when you try to pull that many amps from them, these are lithium phosphate cells which are alot more stable and rated for alot more current draw

U mean in Series . In parallel only ups the amperage

My car need about 80-120A, this lifepo4 batteries can give me 75A normal rate per cell, so.. at 75A discharge they can handle about 4 minutes.. if i understand well..

@@EVCustoms so 4 of 75A is 13.2V (series)120A peak (10sec) (only one battery) is enough to start 120A need right? I have tried 13.2V lead acid battery CP1290 and used thick cables to start 500A need car and it would turn gauge lights on but it will not crank, i even used 2 of them in parallel no luck. so to use your batteries I need 16 of them to crank 500A CCA car need? right? each 4 in series and 4 of them in parallel.

@@Johnsmith-yv8tx 500a is just max battery-rating. Actual draw from starter is based on load and they only suck up about 80-120a when starting car.

4s 1p

thin wires here to connect the balancer

hehe... to much energy..

Because you need your lead acid not only to start your car.

@@guilleport yeah, but you could still have a lead acid and have a small pack for emergency engine start

This batteries is very good my friend.. to tell you the truth I did not expect to be able to start the car..

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lDwJdJE79Rc.html

@@EVCustoms start car is one thing but o nother is how mutch capacited you hawe in bateri. or how mutch you pay for the capacit. y buy new bateris and cap whas from1650mah to 2350mah and eweri can start car.

Do you live in warm climate? I’m making a battery as well. But the prismatic cells you speak of have to high of voltage when full charged? I’d be interested in seeing your work or even a picture of the set up

@@drakevelazquez8728 I switched to LTO batteries, because I live in the north, they can handle subzero temps just fine, I use the pouch cell as backup now, since they are so small and light wieght. I did use one pouch cell battery all winter long, without recharging it once, as a jump starter, because my old lead acid died before the new cells came this week.

@@thesurvivalist. I feel my lead acid battery becoming weak and I plan to do the same thing. May I know that if my original car battery is 12volt 45Ah, is it okay for me to replace it with 4S LiFePo⁴ with 20Ah only? And may I know why you change from LiFePo⁴ to LTO other than temperature?

pouch cells sound super dangerous, i dare you to puncture one of those cells and see if it catches fire

@@eksine I already upgraded to a LTO BMW 12volt battery, I used the pouch cell battery only as a jump starter!

This cells can give normal about 75A

@@EVCustoms 1 cell is rated 75 A ?? omg

@@efdawahfan Sorry 75A at burst..

Those A123 batteries are almost indestructible, of course they could handle that current draw. They are also very cheap, used

My friend this batteries is 26650 Lifepo4..! nominal voltage 3.3v max 3.6-3.7v

@@EVCustoms still not counting friend, 3.6x4 = 14.4v

What you mean..??

@@marinizo1 3.3 x 4 =13.2 V, they have a MAX V of 3.6 per cell. So at the very highest you'd get 14.4, so a usable range of 13.2-14.4, which is totally safe for a car or motorcycle 12V system, and with adequate discharge current, can start it up just fine.

Hi... two years now it working smoothly

@@EVCustoms with a BMS? that's interesting, perhaps the alternator cant overcharge them, I used 32700cells on my corolla, eyeing 75ah prismatics next

​@@EspHack what is the configuration u used?

@@SocialPerspective101 just 4 cells in series with an active balancer, still going great

@@EspHack So you are charging 4 LifePo4 cells connected in series directly from the approx 14volt DC coming out of the car alternator via regulator rectifier?

just add a more batteries

li-ion cell might catch also fire upon accident or high amperage draw

Lithium ion phosphate =3.3v..lithium ion=3.7v...

It’s LiFePO4, I have the same cells...

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V4JTQ43alDo.html

Lead acid battery isn't t connected... one pole is out..

it is disconnected...

watch again... You will see that the battery poles of car is disconnected...

In video you can see clearly that car starter battery is disconnected..

Jesus... I don’t think you know much about electricity you still have the positive connected to the battery and you are using the chassis earth for your negative terminal. That mean the main battery is still operating as the earth you using is the same! You are just doing a parallel setup using a different earth point. You have to disconnect the cranking battery at the positive terminal you moron as the power runs from + to -

@@fasm313 The battery "-" was disconnected from the chassis "-", look at 6:50. If still in doubt, ask yourself how a battery can provide power with only 1 lead connected ? NOT!