the one print he did with a heated chamber and a closed off enclosure didn't warp. and he attributes this to the fillament itself? sorry but these machines and tools didn't deserve this horrible fate of being your posession.
Nice! Do you have an idea as to why they were printed this way? Maybe you can care to share why you think it's a good idea to print all of the materials with the same settings since you are an all-seeing and all knowing god-like creature.
@@NeedItMakeIt print the carbon fibre without heated chamber and with an open top aswel and it will warp the most of all. print the others with a closed enclosure and a heated chamber and they will not warp either. yes even pla can be printed in a heated chamber. you realise they have temperature control right? set up the right temp. and an open printer with draft running past it is the reason you are getting warped prints.
@@darkracer1252 It might be worthwhile taking some time to print some real parts with threads and severe overhangs and come back to see how it worked out for you.
Dude everyone is at different stages of learning. Knowing something another person doesnt, doesnt give you the right to insult them. Science requires us to share info with each other so we can see things and know things we couldn't otherwise as an individual. Thinking in such a negative way doesnt help anyone grow, nor does it foster an environment that promotes learning. If you know something helpful just share it. You are also most likely wrong anyways, because if it was in a heated enclosure the threads would droop before cooling. Maximizing cooling is the play here, since the colder the outer perimeter of plastic material is the faster it will cool the threads and the more accurate the threads will be.
Not necessarily. It’s important that he pointed out that the glass is inside the core of the filament, not uniformly mixed into it. There’s a recent cnckitchen video where he shows with cross-section microscope images that the core of the filament remains in the core of the extrusion after printing. So it’s quite possible that the glass mixed core will remain entombed in an abs sheath and not come in direct contact with the lead screw.
@@dr_traktor The outside laxer of plastic will grind down fairly fast in a use case like that and thus he glass fibers will lay open. Generally speaking you are right, filament flow in laminar out of the nozzle but the part later on will experience stresses.
I'd also be concerned that too small of a nozzle size would expose more of the glass core due to the stiffer (presumably less viscous) material. That said I could see cored filaments worked as long as a large enough nozzle was used, but I'd expect 1.75mm to 0.4mm to be too much of a drop, unless we knew the core was 0.2mm.
@@MakeKasprzak This won´t happen. It´s laminar flow, it will simply stretch into a longer noddle but the ration between core and outer shell stays the same.
Honestly, a couple weeks ago I bought my first filament with such a ziplock and I didn’t notice it in time. Directly after I noticed tho and was super upset i stabbed into it… now I check every filament
Honestly until you said that I had no idea, all of mine are non-zip-lock style, my bad! You may see it in the next video all patched up with some duct tape :)
those pieces are made of bronze for a reason: to avoid damaging the thread. which is expensive to replace. never use glass nor CF in contact to a surface that you want to preserve. I would just do a simple bronze casting. Also you already have the machine to make it even from a lump of bronze, which could be a bit hard because of the wear, but not imposible. if you want more precision, make a tap to make it match. if you want even more precision, make a interference-adjustable nut to eliminate backlash. 3d print would work for a short duration, and you want that. you could bore the right screw out of bronze using the temporal 3d print as a temporal replacement. dont destroy the machine using glass, please.
you can use a paper scanner, to take an exact image of the piece, and put it on your cad software, and calibrate the image dimensions. also. print a "calibration comb" first, instead a whole thread.
Hmmm. Glass fibers are abrasive bronze is auto lubricating. So you may se some wear coming very quickly with a glass reinforced nut. And keep in mind plastic will never be as stiff as metal whatever you do, especially ABS. So your nut will act like kinda spring under load anyways. You should compare plastic materials to brass and steel to make up your mind. There's feelings and there's materials physics which should be your reference. Personal testing are feelings. The best filament for the job should be IGUS Iglidur, but I guess it's still too flexible for metal lathe applications. I would use a lost PLA brass casting or a SLS 3d print instead. Currently your lathe quality is far to be as good as it should be.
It is also possible to get PTFE blended filaments as an alternative to the IGUS ones. Spectrum make PC-PTFE and PETG-PTFE and at least the PC-PTFE claims to have coefficients of friction equal to that of the best IGUS filaments.
@@conorstewart2214 There are several aspects to this subject, and the friction coefficient is one, but not the only one. Igus polymers have both a very low coefficient of friction and excellent resistance to abrasion. When using a filament reinforced with fibers, it's the screw that will have to withstand the abrasion. And since it's the most complicated part to manufacture, softer materials are usually chosen for the nut. However, I still believe that, regardless of the quality of the polymer, it will never match the precision or rigidity of metal, especially not in this application.
@@axelSixtySix the filaments I mentioned have very good abrasion resistance too. Self lubricating and low coefficients of friction tend to go with high abrasion resistance anyway. PTFE blended filaments are alternatives to IGUS filaments, so IGUS filaments aren't necessarily "The best filament for the job", when there are other filaments with very similar properties that are cheaper and easier to print.
A few comments: 1) I ~love~ the texture on the glass fiber filament. It hides the layer lines very well and looks fantastic, though I'd like it in a wood brown I think 2) Please give an update on how these parts hold up over time! I have my doubts about a plastic (or even glass) part that is mushed inside a steel machine, but I am hopeful. 3) Great video! Just discovered this channel, and this video is full of good information and presented well.
Thanks! Well the long-term plan is to replace the high-load parts with brass or bronze, I'm not 100% sure which direction to go to make them yet, I was thinking to machine them myself but I also want to try to cast some myself. I may also try machining them. I've taken the lathe apart to do a full cleaning an restoration, but so far I haven't noticed any change in backlash. I might do a follow up to this video testing some different materials in a way that relates to your question though, I have a few ideas of how to do this also.
I used 3d printed nuts(petg) on my prusa mk3 clone z-axis leadscrews, took some work to get the fit right, but they've been working non stop perfectly for more then 3 years. Also no backlash.
Holy smokes Mike. You keep knocking those videos out. Love the channel so far. I'm a mechanical guy that's getting into 3D printing. Your content is what I'm looking for. Good luck on getting those 100k subs .
Thank you! You're going to love the flexibility 3D printing gives you to explore ideas that aren't normally possible with more traditional methods. I'm on a mission and I'll work as many hours as I need to in order to make this a success, or die trying.... I think you're going to really enjoy the next video as well, it's going to include some more testing and some very unique ideas that are hard to produce with anything but 3D printing. After getting my lathe fixed up with these parts, I decided it was time to treat it to a full clean and a new paint job, so it is now in pieces and I'm just waiting for some nice weather to start painting it. I was also thinking that it needs a new stand and I'm not sure if I should do a solid wood frame with maybe some traditional timber-frame connections or a welded steel frame. I could also cast some pieces from Aluminum and combine wood and metal. What do you think?
You could likely design the parts better so that you don’t need as high stiffness. The original parts are designed to be made of metal and likely to be easy to manufacture. You might be able to better design it so that lower stiffness filaments can be used and that would then allow you to experiment with lubricating filaments like IGUS makes or PC-PTFE or PETG-PTFE, which contains solid lubricant in the filament and makes the parts self lubricating and have low coefficients or friction.
I've done this. it works fine even with pla but the screw that hold it will mess up the hole in little time. The best ive done is heat up the screw and use a delrin rod. You can pre drill the rod then just screw it on the hot screw. run it through with a drill or impact wrench. Cut off the extra material and voila you have a 0 tolerance nut that slice very well.
I'll probably get it made from brass, but this was a pretty good test, because I'm using the lathe and it's so much nicer, it was just terrible before. I think Delrin would be better than what I did, but it's all an experiment, can you do this if you were in a bind, yeah, it works, and could be a good temporary solution for people that have a broken part.
@@NeedItMakeIt To be honest brass is not your best choice of yellow metal for a transit nut on acme threads. Bronze or gunmetal is far preferable to plain brass.
Thanks, that's my thought as well! We're not quite there yet with making truly industrial parts, but I think that's coming soon. I can feel that there is something coming and it's BIG. I think printing gives us a way to invent and innovate and challenge ourselves as well, good for the old brain.
With the glass fiber laying in-plane with the print layers, it does make sense you'd see very little warping. The glass is holding the shape. I do wonder if it'll still develop a warp over time, since the plastic is still in differential tension. But it seems the kind of thing you could account for. As for printing materials without glass fiber reinforcement - I've always had better luck with higher temps in an enclosure (except bridging can sometimes get a little worse). So I run even basic (non-dimensional) PLA prints in a heated enclosure. It just solves a lot of problems and makes printing more reliable. I'll never buy another printer without a heated enclosure.
@NeedItMakeIt have you tried a thinner layer of glue stick? Do several swipes on the build plate and then rub it in with 99% Isopropyl. A very fine layer is all that is needed for adhesion, way less mess on the build plate and printed parts. To refresh the plate just wipe with the isopropyl between prints. I reapply glue stick every 8-12 prints. No issues.
I did that for a while, but I’ve switched to using “suave max hold” hairspray. I’ve tried about 10 different brands but this doesn’t foam, no residue, minimal odorants. And one single wet coat dried on the glass or PEI holds stronger than any stick glue I’ve ever used. Also can be refreshed with the isopropyl method you mentioned.
this even works with a slightly wet towel, no need for iso, because when heating up the bed all the water evaporates. I tried both and found the wet towel easier to use because it does not evaporate so quickly whilst spreading it out on the bed and you can save the iso for actual cleaning. I also use a wet towel to remove the marks after the print was removed, so it doesn't show up on the next one.
@@Noxoreos I have tried "reincorporation" using water, but I found that water will actually cause it to break down chemically. It will turn into something like a gel that stays sticky and tacky. The platter should look as nothing is on it at all and dry. Just fyi. Cheers!
@@KevinDC5 It possibly depends on the gluestick, but cheap gluesticks that contain pva don't break down like that. I didn't experience any. And yes the film is completely invisible, until you remove a part from the bed, which roughs the glue up and then re-doing ther makes it invisible again.
I’ve used ABS-GF with excellent results. Rough surface finish but the GF-core of yours probably addresses that. A friend said his E3D Obxidian nozzle was destroyed by printing GF filament, but I’ve had no issue with mine. Another excellent option for high-load/high-wear parts is PA6-CF/GF. The specs on Polymaker’s PA6-CF are out of this world, and it prints beautifully as well. MUCH higher tensile strength than ABS, especially if annealed in a water bath (80C for 4-6 hours). I love your testing rigs. I use a hi-lift jack and similar digital scale for tensile testing. I’ve printed a bunch of test parts in PA6-CF to see how my numbers compare with Polymaker’s, but I haven’t done the measurements yet. Also: Vision Miner “nano polymer” bed adhesive works wonderfully for ABS and doesn’t build up like glue stick does. I still use glue stick for PETG, however.
I think this demonstrates one of the great features of 3d printing. Testing, iteration and development. Not getting into the whole materials discussion aspect going on, i.e. glass fiber and metal wear. I'd think the next step was a nice quality resin print in lost wax material and have some new bronze nut blanks cast, since it is a bit of an odd shaped part to be accurate to the original.
I'd strongly recommend you repeat this same test with Siraya Tech Fibreheart PET-CF. NOT PETG-CF. This will not warp and has a far higher stiffnesss- 2x to 2.5x of PETG-CF. And ~50% greater breaking strength. High dimensional stability. Also much higher temp rating and lower creep under high temp/high load, esp if annealed. Dry at least 70C. Print 110C G10 Garrolite bed 300C nozzle 50C chamber. They recommend to anneal at 100C -120C for 8-10 hrs, preferably with a specific temp profile. They're incredibly tough without the annealing effort, but it does create a inherent structural change which shrinks the part a precise and repeatable amount that can be compensated for. Same for polycarbonate (PC). Try transparent Overture PC first. Its higher melting temp indicates it's either not a blend or blended with a higher % of PC. Pigmented versions are not as stiff but correspondingly higher impact strength due to not being a ceramic analog like pure, transparent PC is Much much stronger, stiffer, similar temps than what you've tried so far (but PET-CF is better but I've not mastered overhangs in PET-CF yet and at least non-filled versions of PC ) and again, G10 Garrolite build plate and annealing. There's also GF and CF filled versions. What's you've got is great, but these and going to blow your mind and you will not see 3D printing the same again.
Nice! I'm still in the process of upgrading my printers to do high temp materials. That said, PLA never ceases to impress me, holding its own in your break tests. For your functional part, it was fascinating to see that the glass core filament worked so well, trading higher stiffness for some brittleness.
The problem i've had with PLA is that while it's impressive out of the printer, 2 years later, loaded prints have all failed. And i've had a printer for 7 years now i think. They have showed yellowing, crazing around pressure spots, and exploded into sharp shards, when initially prints are extremely tough. I rather deal with deficiencies of PETG and HIPS because they don't experience any changes with passage of time.
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Nice. I’ve been enjoying printing with that filament. 99.5% shrinkage; almost nothing. I’ve also been using the Phaetus aeworthy ABS-GF for a more general purpose 10% fiberglass filament; they have an equivalent to the GF25 now too. I just find all these options print much better than CF-based composites. Also with your load tests, you might want to investigate how different infill patterns and print angles affect the stiffness and robustness of the final part. With composites you get extra strength in the direction of the extrusion, which implies there is some potential for eeking out even more benefits.
You gave me some inspiration to fix my lathe with 3d printed parts! I have a mini lathe but the thread spinner fell and broke to pieces so I haven't been using it much. But seeing that you did it, i will try my luck. It doesn't have to withstand forces much so it should be fairly easy to build a new thread dial. Very cool, i never through to try and fix it with a 3d printed part until now. I couldn't source another one so I gave up. But I will tey this. I may also try to build a 3d mount to drive it with some stepper motors eventually. If I could move the carriage back and forth maybe I could use a timing magnet to produce threads in synch with a stepper motor. That would be awesome. Not a full CNC machine, but an automated thread would be awesome. Ill have to think about the best way to make it happen now.
Very cool, I was hoping that it would give someone an idea or two. There were quite a few comments from people about how GF filament is a poor choice, for me it's less about the filament as it is about whether it is possible, and I believe that it is. Your project sounds really cool, I'd love to do something similar but I need to learn more about programming and driving steppers.
Niiiiice, this filament is great. There are also different types of glass fillings. There is the "regular" fiber types but there are also spherical balls filling type. Their advantage is that mechanical forces behave better with round shapes, there is no notch effect. But you need to be careful because all those filament are highly abrasive, they will increase wear of your metal parts and probably damage them over time. An other method could be to print a master part and use a low melting point alloy like aluminium or even zinc. If tight tolerances are needed try to create bores, those have a very high tolerance. So for instance you can cast a fairly complex zinc part and then create bores and tap it hight tolerances at home.
For my Z axis on a large scale 3D printer I used IGUS rods but 3D printed nuts (common ABS), because IGUS has nice rods that are affordable, but their nuts are crazy expensive. The way I did was setting the nut area to be 100% infill and the diameter to be equal to the inner diameter of the rods (the diameter without the threads), then I took a cut from the rods (that was an offcut of when the rods were cut to length) and made some perpendicular cuts as an X on the rod, and used a file to bevel it, making a tap out of it. Then I used the tap to make the threads on the plastic material. It was a bit snug on the rods, so I just put the rod on a drill and went back and forth until the friction and heat deformed the plastic to be just right. Then I lubed the rods with lithium spray grease and the nuts lasted for quite some time.
Huh maybe i should keep using glass as well. I have been thinking of "upgrading" :D I guess i could prepare one glass with one of those black tack stickers to get the benefit of bottom texture when i don't want mirror bottom surfaces. I broke my original borosilicate glass after uhhh 6 years or so and then bought an IKEA FREBRO mirror and made a whole bunch of bed surfaces out of it, i think i managed to make 4. Learned glass cutting that day. I also love how i can just span a piece of plywood or cutting mat into the same clips, though i haven't had to yet, but i'll make a quick swappable toolhead system eventually. I installed Ultimaker bed glass clips, i have them jammed between the nuts and the bed permanently installed in the back of the bed, and below the nuts in the front of the bed. I also don't have bed springs any longer, instead i use nut wheels both above and below the carrier, and during manual bed tramming i jam them into the carrier so the bed won't become untrammed or vibrate.
Be VERY careful, it's easy to break the glass, ABS does not only warp when cooling, but shrinks too, you have to yank out the parts while the bed is still hot
Try printing out of PC or a super hard TPU instead, 70 or 80D is super abrasion resistant, can be very smooth, and very very strong. Your GF filler is super abrasive and high friction. 80D filament is (almost) unobtainium but if you can get it it's the same hardness as a construction hard hat.
6 месяцев назад
Ive got 70d or so, and just slightly harder would be heaven!
There is another youtube channel that tested (my tech fun), TPU was by far the best. PC was not that great from their example at least. Then add whatever grease is compatible with it.
Very interesting printing experiments here but the glass fill material will work with an abrasive action on your leadscrew. There have been some really useful experiments carried out with Acetal Copolymer plastic bar/rod where a piece of leadscrew is heated with a hot air gun and 2 half round segments of the Acetal plastic are squeezed together until no gap exists between them. The resulting plastic nut can be unscrewed from the thread after it has cooled and solidified. The process was nicknamed the 'Evanut' after the guy who came up with the idea. It has been shared many times on home model engineering sites. I have tried it with very successful outcomes. It is easily achievable to get near zero backlash with the 'Evanut' method. If you are going down the route of making a new nut from yellow metal then bronze or gunmetal are far superior to plain brass.
@NeedItMakeIt I noticed at 7:34 you tried pulling the print right off the heated bed. One trick I use, is I have a piece of steel (stainless steel work bench) that I take the plate off and place the build plate on it. I've found this rapidly cools the build plate and I quickly get the satisfying pop and crackle of the build realeasing from the plate.
You should try polymide pa6cf filament from polymaker, it can endure temperatures over 190 and according to polymaker up to 215 degrees C, it's very stiff and has insane impact resistance. Its only negative aspect is the price, yet still cheaper than Peek.
If you think about, the glass fibres being in the centre of the filament is meaningless when you're taking a 1.75mm diameter filament and extruding it through a 0.4mm nozzle. So you're still going to end up with reduced layer adhesion as a result of the glass 'contamination'. Good to see the project worked oat for you though!
I think the GF isn't really giving you what you expect, it does give you stiffness and it seems to be pretty stable, but it's not tough like you'd see with any GF products. Those long strands are missing in the same way they're missing in a CF filament.
Go with clean Nylon (ABS not wear resistant, lower temperature of melt, and glass fiber is abrasive). Or you can go with Nylon GF. I love ABS but it not for current case.
Well, I must say that warpage isn't as far of a problem to me, than what is shown here. I tested multiple meterials in very a similar way on a "00" rated surface plate and I managed to get all my test samples completely flat. I'm using a P1P in an enclosed box made from fabric and aluminium foil. The Materials i tested were, ABS, PLA, PLA+, PLA-Silk, PLA-CF5, PLA-CF15, PLA-CF20, PETG, PETG-CF15, PETG-CF20, Qidi ABS-GF25, PC, PA-6, PA-12 and PA6-CF15, PA12-CF20. I was able to tune all of their settings to avoid warping completely. Anything with a highter percentage of CF or GF was easier to print without warping. Oftentimes it very much depends on the part itself and the more material is layed down, the harder it is to counteract warping. Also parts may be stronger under certain conditions, when they are actually not printed solid. Print speed, cooling and temperature are the most important factors to counteract warping. If you feel like you need a stronger bed adhesive, then the settings are probably not good enough, because that means you have a lot of internal stress in the print, which also makes it weaker. Parts printed solid usually also have more internal stress.
I think that's the main reason why most people don't experience too much warpage, when we begin to print towards the solid range, the stresses can begin to overcome either the bond with the buildplate, the attraction between the plate and the magnet, or they'll warp during the cooldown. As people want to print larger parts and more solid parts, it will become more important to tune like you've done for the best results. Printing PLA in an enclosure is possible of course, but when it comes to overhangs on parts like I've made here, it becomes way too hard to achieve good results with PLA. I have run some tests after the video, however those tests were all complete failures. Slowing the print speed helps quite a bit, but does not solve the problem. Long-term I don't think that FDM is the solution, I believe that we're going to see a shift to more industrial style printers at home, small scale. Printing solid parts is a good temporary solution though.
I own a 9 inch standard modern utili lath And a millwright by trade I am into 3d printing also and taught myself Fusion 360 cad i must try this. good luck on your channel
It can certainly get you by for a time and even allow you to use your machine to make the final replacement parts. Some parts being 3D printed like the thread dial I think will last a long time, but the nuts... I'm just guessing, but I think they'll have a little more flex than you'd want for highly precise work. My lathe has small parts a larger lathe with larger parts could be a different story. The Standard Modern is a nice machine! I think we're getting very close to being able to 3D print structural parts at home, there is going to be a change in the tech to allow us to use SLS at home, I just saw that the first one is being released for home use in the next few months, it'll be great to be able to print truly structural parts at home without having to worry about layer adhesion etc. Nice work on Self-teaching Fusion, I'm used to it now, but when I first started, it wasn't that easy to wrap my head around.
😊 Information it is a nice try but it wont hold up onto heavy stress. We printed a set of gears to get some special thread gears they hold up until the load gets to heavy. Shearforce between metal and plastic kills the plastic. May seem obvious when you read it but sometimes there are illusions what plastics can do.
I would've thought bronze filament would have better lubricating properties while staying a bit durable for plastic. Glass fibers, while stiff, are essentially abrasives, and more prized for their strength and chemical resistance; than as a metal alternative. The wall thickness, when forced into close proximity with the glass fibers and plastic; is what gives their mechanical resilliance. Similarly, in injection molding the "fuzz" or roughened surface texture comes from a lack of pressure to force the glass fibers into the part surface against the polished mold surface. So the molten resin is essentially allowing the glass fibers to "float", and not forced into close proximity with the remaining plastic surface. Flame polishing may help the plastic to "wick" into the texture that is otherwise essentially sand paper. Like your content, and this is not intended as a criticism; but I would love if you went into some technical specs, or some of your thought process when making these parts with the materials; instead of simply showing them printing or in use.
Excellent work! So for the screws vs nuts where glass fiber could be a concern....... Just lube it with something that doesn't attack your printed parts. It'll take a long time to wear down the screw.
I've found most warping can be prevented with proper settings. I can't speak for ABS, but I run a lot of PETG and never had warping once I went with no cooling on the first 50 layers (on polyamide/kapton tape bed). Once you've dialed in heat and flow rate, there was never an issue with overhangs either.
If it was a regular mix like most CF filaments definitely a problem, but it being glass-core filament (possibly a glass+plastic core surrounded by a pure plastic), it's possible the outer plastic might protect it (until it wears). That said, I wasn't paying attention to the nozzle size, so depending on the thickness of the glass core, the "protective plastic" might have yielded to the stiffer glass core as it passed through the nozzle. Tangentially, I would expect a CHT nozzle to defeat the purpose of a filled-core filament.
@@MichaelTavel that all depends on how much it was used, the brass nut and the original lead screw were likely heavily used. Having plastic with very hard and sharp fibres in it will likely make it wear the lead screw a lot faster.
From RC helis, don't count on the plastic not wearing out the steel. Plastic loops for ball joints easily wear out the steel balls, etc. 'In comparison, most plastics will have higher wear resistance than metals, including steel. Plastics have low coefficient of friction that allows them to reduce friction between mating surfaces. Less friction means less wear on mechanical parts and equipment.'
+1 to all the comments mentioning hardness differences between the plastic nut and the leadscrew. Assuming that the leadscrew is regular high carbon steel, and possibly undhardened at that, the steel is significantly softer than the glassfibers. Once the "Shell" of the coextruded abs is worn through, that Glassfiber will grind your leadscrew within a few hours of usage... (Try rubbing a cutoff wheel at the leadscrew forces against the old leadscrew and see the kind of wear that produces). In addition, i want to mention that even though this is supposedly coextruded plastic, it will still have less strenght (as in stress at failure) than just the base plastic itself. The only polymer type that gains structural stiffness by adding in cf or gf are the tougher, ductile ones. PCTG, Nylon and Tough PC... ABS and PLA are plenty stiff by themselves. Additional Stiffness will only amplify the negative attributes of high stiffness (awful shock absorption, layer adhesion, etc..). Printed ABS is in my experience also one of the fastest wearing plastics right after pla... petg and pctg are way more forgiving on that front. Pure nylon is a also quite waer resistant, though obviously not an option for this project. The best material here would probably be a high strenght polycarbonate filament without fibre reinforcement. Should be printable on that QIDI printer. The main advantage of fiber filled filaments is print quality, as you have documented in this video.
Another advantage of fiber filled filament is less warping as it breaks up long polymer chains. One disadvantage I have found is that the layer adhesion is better in pure PC vs Carbon Fiber PC. Igus make self lubricating filament, which would be interesting to see if it was suitable for the replacement parts.
Yeah I think I'll skip on glass. I've had fiberglass reinforced rods which constantly gave me glass splinters. Nothing worse than glass splinters. It's also just so abrasive. I would think it would wear out your other parts so much faster. That high-perf PLA looked good. Stick with the easy stuff!
Nice! This small lathe has some nice features, they're well designed and built, and with the right belt to drive the high-speed (I don't have a good one yet) it could be even better. I've just taken mine apart and I'm doing a deep clean first and then, I'm going to re-paint it, but there are some tags on mine so I'm not sure what to do there. Maybe I need to re-make a tag to re-apply after painting? it says RDR10606, it say below that with a separate tag Calibration Maintenance "A". I'll be doing a follow up video with some other 3D printed parts for this lathe, which are you looking for if I may ask?
10=/=12 Noted! Had a similar issue when trying to print a replacement part for a ski pole for someone. Looked like Acme thread, turned out to be metric trapezoidal. Wow, those results look awesome overall. Having the slightly rough surface could be a good thing if you print with tight tolerances and wear the part in with the lead screw. Could compact the surface and make it even more wear resistant. Just a theory. I imagine some sticky grease would help prevent any wear and take up even more slack. The flatness of the glass fiber print is really impressive! The bending and breaking test is super interesting too. Stiff and brittle should be good for threads.
LOL, brutal it too so many attempts to get the thread to work, why doesn't Fusion show many many TPI are on the ACME thread like it does for others? Now that I have the model and I have the lathe working with little backlash, I'm going to take that model and see if I can have one CNC machined, I have no idea if it will fit like the plastic version, but I'd like to give it a go. I know the plastic isn't the best solution in the end, but the dial I think works well, it won't take too much abuse and just needs some paint. I need to learn to thread on the lathe so that I can make some replacement parts too. I thought the stiffness was good, the flatness was good, it was printed on the Q1 in a heated chamber, and so was the ABS. I guess I should have tried PC as well, maybe I'll do a quick sample now to see how it compares off camera just for fun. It's pretty stiff as well. Overall it was a good experiment and I think 3D printing can be used more than we think. Printing 100% solid helps quite a bit as well, I've never had results like that with PETG before, normally it shatters into 100 pieces all over the shop.
@@binyominmartin3308 Sadly, there are hundreds of filament options, if there is interest, I can always do a follow up video with more suitable materials. I unfortunately don't have the resources... yet, to purchase and keep each on hand, but I hope to get to that point and really pull out all of the stops to do more complete testing. It sounds like there is some interest in a follow up video so I'll start to think about what it should look like and what tests I should perform. I think Igus is a good candidate, also Nylon, POM is apparently toxic to print, so I'll leave that one alone.
@@binyominmartin3308 POM is Acetal or Delrin, it's also very common but it'd be machined rather than printed. Nylon seems to me that it would be too flexible, unless you add the GF and people seem to be against the glass because they think it will wear down the screw too fast. Maybe that's the case based on lots of use and no form of lubrication. In any case, Nylon is a good one to try out and Igus because it is engineered for these kinds of applications. Nylon being prone to moisture absorption is something that has prevented me from wanting to use it.
I've used the XY compensation in the slicer for threads too till you get the fit you are looking for. Could easily give clearance in Fusion as well which would be the way to go if you are sending out for a machining process. You will have to have different Gcode than your slicer produces. Fusion will do that. Two different animals. I would give them the screw to match the nut to. Chances are that the ACME thread that the screw was made from is not a precision ground screw like OEM would of done. A DRO would solve that inaccuracy at least as far as travel goes compared to your dial on the lathe. It may be acceptable depending on what you are doing. Once you start putting more load on your tool you will find that any plastic is not that good at all. Repeatability will be hard to get but use your print to get by to make a metal one. I would single point that thread. Grinding a HS tool is not that hard to do. THere are good loads put on the tool making ACME threads especially. You could also make a tap out of the old unworn part of the screws to do a final cleanup. Your thread dial needs to be held tight so it won't swing any while cutting threads. You may find that that crappy fix of that screw won't work with a tight tolerance bronze nut or at least it will have a tight spot every turn.
Thanks for the informative review. I have a couple old Atlas machines that could use some fit improvements and a couple gears which I plan to make with Tough PLA. I have repaired a couple traveling lawn sprinklers (tractors) with 3D printed Nylon worms and Tough PLA wheel gears that have lasted several years so far.
That's very kind of you to say! I have plans to go much much further, I am taking a bit of time to get better setup with a test rig that would go everything all at one station. My thought is that we need to test parts which better represent real world parts, so that's the goal, to come up with something so that we can gain info that's directly applicable to real-life.
I think what you want is a glass fiber nylon part with a plain nylon (or pom, if your printer can handle it) threaded insert. glass fiber nylon is much tougher than glass fiber abs, plain nylon or pom inserts will be much slippier and not wear down the lead screw so much
Ah, that's a good idea, like how they'd use a cast iron body and melt in a different lower melting and softer material around the screw for a good fit.
Information glass will grind metal. Since we sandblast with glass. The question is just how much in what time. Theres a mechanic the made some lapping 3d prints. He embeeded diamond paste onto the lapping print and lapped some steel to a mirror finish. So it is an illusion to think glass wont work steel. It does and after a few 100 moves the steel will be polished and some what deformed.
I would rather use the PETG ones as it has much lower friction resistance than ABS, less prone to wear. And that glass reinforcement filling will wear down the threaded rod over time. If strength is a concern, use natural or white filaments as they tend to be stronger than the ones with (lots of) fancy pigments in them. (I know the white is pigmented too, but usually they are the strongest of the colored filaments.)
Nice tips, it was recommended to use IGUS filament as well, what are your thoughts on that? It is designed to be a bushing, though I'd need to run some tests to see how it really compares over time. I'm a fan of PETG, but it does flex quite a bit, to compensate I'd make the nut larger because there is quite a bit of room that's not being used under there.
Great video. As a suggestion, instead of asking people to subscribe to make the best channel ever, ask them what content they want to see that would make them subscribe. Your goal is not their goal. People will subscribe if you provide them the content they are looking for and they look forward to seeing the next one. Good luck!
Thanks, suggestion noted. Maybe it was bit bold; that's how it came out and I decided to keep it. The way I am in general is quite blunt and I can be too honest sometimes. I want to bring the best 3D printing content to everyone that I possibly can of course, that's key. I believe that it's important to state my goals, if people know the goal they know that I'm going to work as hard as I can to find a way to be successful, and to do that, I need to make good and eventually great content. I appreciate your candidness and I will certainly think about it, I can't promise that I will change the way that I am or the way I would word things because I believe that I should be myself and not an actor.
I’m confused as to why you tried to print threads especially out of an abrasive. Was it not feasible to just purchase a lead screw nut and create a 3d printed housing for it to fit it to your lathe?
I would suggest a slightly different approach, first is to buy Igus filament it is vastly better than any conventional option (I150-PF will be fine, you need to print it really hot) and also I would buy or make a tap to finish the threads. You can print close to size and then use the tap, it will be much faster and easier (and just simply work better) than trying to print a nut.
I guess I could try it on a standard acme thread for a test, my threads were non-standard and are not available to purchase sadly, but I like your ideas! Igus seems to be a popular solution and I hadn't thought of it myself, so I appreciate the feedback on it!
Just as a sidenote, I got PLA warping in my bambu X1 on the old, black textured plate. When I switched to the new, gold textured plate, all my adhesion issues disapeared. I would highly reccomend getting a gold plate and ditching the smooth plate+glue combo the machine came with stock
That's a great tip, thanks, In my case, the warpage I have is when pulling up on the buildplate and away from the magnet, the bond is quite good to the smooth plate... with glue like you ay of course. I did an entire video on the subject because most people have no idea their parts are warping because even though the bond is good to the buildplate, it still can pull up and away from the magnet. I print mainly structural parts, they're more prone to warpage due to heavy walls and infill as well. It may not be something everyone experiences.
@@jackgamer6307 A thicker plate could help as well, warmer chamber does help, but it is an issue with PLA to cool the overhangs well enough, Personally I don't print enough with PLA to warrant looking into it too deep, but it's just something that people should be aware of if they print heavy parts.
@@NeedItMakeIt Never had PLA warp so bad to pull my plate up. Once I switched to the gold plate, I started printing at 50° bed with open top and door (X1C). Also, I don't think a thicker bed is an option for most printers, and if it is, it's only avalible trough 3rd parties
@@jackgamer6307 It is completely dependent on your part size, shape and print settings, to some extent the filament/brant etc. If you print a long thin part that's nearly solid it will want to do this. Unless you put your stuff on a surface plate it's hard to notice the warp though, this is something I only really picked up on about 6 months ago while I was trying to make more accurate parts. Textured or no texture won't do much to reduce the internal stresses due to the cooling of the plastic. I agree that the textured surface of the plate does a better job of keeping the part stuck to the buildplate though, that's something that I've had pretty good success with too. Sometimes I prefer the smooth surface depending on what I'm printing though.
Might be a silly question, think the glass fiber ABS would cause more or less wear on the lead screw than the brass? Normally I would think less but after seeing what the brass did too it I’m questioning my initial reaction.
The brass nut was likely used for a long time, he doesn’t say but if he is fixing an old lathe it could have been heavily used in the past. Sharp and hard glass fibres will likely wear it out much faster.
Interesting video. Subscribed. Have you tried Copperfill PLA or Stainless steel filled PLA (can also get PETG versions). Parts I made using these seem very strong. I'd like to hear your thoughts or for you to repeat your tests using them.
I haven't tried any of the metal filled, though I like the idea of adding real metals, I wonder if the copper would get a patina? I can certainly try some out, I'll have to come up with some standardized testing so I can run them each through the ringer and get some stats. One thing about the metal filled that I like is the weight, there is something about a heavy print that really feels good to me.
@@NeedItMakeIt You can patina the copper filled, yes. I think vinegar and salt application. I have tried bronze fill, copper filled and stainless steel filled. They print very accurately and high detail and are very dense and satisfying. Sadly a bit pricey.
@@TheAndyroo770 I can see there being some good use-cases for parts outdoors. It might be worth looking into a bit more. I bet they look amazing too. I find that PETG-CF is the best looking filament, but I also want to test against some others. I also wonder if bronze PLA would have good lubricity properties?
remember to use a hardened steel at least (preferably even harder) nozzle when printing with fiberglass. usual brass nozzle will wear over single-digit prints
Good point. I think most newer printers are coming with a bi-metal nozzle, thanks for mentioning that, and technically the extruder should have hardened gears as well, it's quite a hard thing to measure unless you have two identical printers printing the same parts over a long period of time with different materials, so how much wear there is exactly on extruder gears, I'm only going from what I've read. I'd imagine it would be a good idea though.
So, i have some of this filament in my x-max3 now making a 2kg dry box. But i made mistake. I have gotten into the habit of drying all of my new filament before first use. I do 8hr at 90°c. Well, be warned, the spools quidi uses do not like heat. I came home to find the spool severely warped. It was beyond use. I had to re-spool the whole roll. Thats when i ran into the stiffness problem. Now i have 5 small rolls instead of a single 1kg roll. Also the filament was stuck to itself in many places. Im not sure if it was caused by the dehydrator or if it came from qidi that way. If i hadn't already spent last night re-spooling it, i would have tried to contact them to see what they suggest.
This sounds like a nightmare! I haven't had the problem with anything recently, but I have had it with a spool of PETG. It bonded to itself when I was drying it at 60C. The issue was that the heater was pumping out hotter air at the bottom and it caused it to fuse. A way to circulate the hot air in a dryer will prevent this, or a way to rotate the spool.
I've inquired about something similar before. They gave me feedback that they have two types of spools. The spools used for filaments such as PLA and ABS can theoretically withstand up to 80°C, but in fact if we use such high temperatures it may cause the filaments to become soft. The other type of spools used for filaments like carbon fiber can theoretically withstand up to 125°C. I think they are also considering the limited temperature that the filaments themselves can withstand, so the spools of some of them can't withstand too high a temperature.
Don't underestimate the forces handled by a lathe lead screw. It might work for a shor period, but be prepared to change them out regularly. The filament contains glass particles,it WILL wear out your lead screw!
Yes, I agree. I can apply a force of nearly 250lbs, the handle is quite small and it's hard to get any more than that. My woodworking vises are closer to 600lbs and my giant ATHOL No95 vise is over 2000lbs. I have a couple of load cells and it's fun to test these things out even though I'd never use close to that force for anything I do. Can you do me a solid and check out the follow up video and see what you think. I've since threaded and installed the piece as well and it works perfectly. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1vrfEl1uc8.html
Thanks, It seems like there can be some uses for this material. Quite a few people seem to think this is a poor choice for the nut because it will wear the screw, but this for me was just a stop-gap solution so I'm not too worried about it.
Im not sure this is a good idea. The reason brass is used is because brass is softer than steel, its designed to wear away rather then the lead screw. Now given it seems like you were easily able to replace the leadscrew but not find a replacement nut it might be fine, but i wouldnt use glass filled filamnet as the glass will act as an abrasive and sand away the leadscrew over time. I get that this is a glass core rather than a uniform filled glass folament but I think you're better off selecting the closest filament that meets your mechanical needs. Additionally this part does not look like a complicated part, if that leadscrew is a standard design i would either look to see if theres a nut you can buy and design an adapter off of, or see if you can get a quote from a few cnc shops to see what it might cost to get a handfull made. That being said if a plastic printed part is strong enough for your needs then i see no need to do anything complicated. Additionally because you probably have some room to improve the strength of that part like making the nut longer to distribute forces over a larger area.
Consider threading away from the chuck with an inverted tool, assuming it's not an older screw on style chuck. This method changed my life,,,,,way less stressful
Unfortunately it is a screw style chuck on this lathe. After I finish doing a full restoration, I may consider selling it and buying a little bit larger lathe with a different mount for the chucks, I think that would be really handy. I also want to work on converting a lathe to a CNC lathe myself, that's a big job with my current knowledge of how to control steppers.
I think that's a great idea, it's not something that occurred to me, but it would be better. For me the threads are both non-standard sizes, and the cross-slide is also a LH thread to make things worse, but it could be done that way with a standard ACME thread for sure, that's a solid idea!
Thank you, and speaking of dryers, the new dryers seem to be closed system, which is a bit confusing, wouldn't it make sense to evacuate the hot humid air at least every so often? I can see their design being better to reduce heat loss, but at the expense of being able to adequately dry some filaments. Can I get your thoughts on this?
@@NeedItMakeIt good question, I never use CF or GF filaments, I hate the idea of breathing this tiny fragments. But for my nylon filament, I just put them in a cheap oven and I open the doors for a few seconds every 30 - 45 min. On my polymaker copa, it works well.
@@chatroux399 I'll give it a go, I've been wanting to try it for a while, I was just not wanting to deal with the moisture issues that come with it. If it's easy enough, I'll try it out.
Thanks, I'm always trying to improve and I'm up for the challenge, so we'll see what happens. If I don't meet the goal, I'll have to do a failure challenge of some kind. If I do, I'll have to do a success challenge. Lots more videos to come! I'm only just getting warmed up!
There are filaments out there that you can print and then send out to be sintered and returned as a full metal part. I forget the name of the filament but when I priced it for 316 stainless it was about 150 for the roll which included the sintering and shipping back to you. Its a great deal and easy way to make real metal parts on your home 3d printers such as a Bambu Lab.... check out material miner
I've heard of the filament, but didn't realize that it worked in that way, that's an interesting process. I am in the process of having some of the parts CNC machined to see if what I printed can translate well to a CNC machined part and other parts I am having 3D printed in metal just to see how it looks and performs. I try to do everything myself, but I'm willing to try something new because when you can make intricate parts from metal, it opens up a lot of options. I think if someone is inventive, they can use 3D printing at home to come up with the idea, fine tune it and then send it away to have it made for a part that can last a lifetime and depending on what it is it could maybe even become an heirloom or part of one anyway. I guess I need to wait and see, I'm curious about the process, the pricing seems far better than what I was expecting, that last time I tried this process was 3 years ago and I suppose the tech has improved quite a bit since then. With the process you're suggesting you'd need to know the exact shrinkage and warpage of the part, or how is this done accurately do you know?
hey, at least he's trying, give him positive ideas to make it viable, any idea is worth pursuing, mayb one day we can be backers for him implementing our ideas>yes?
What you can also do is, print the thing completely hollow, single perimeter and the top layer missing, and then fill it up with epoxy with chopped carbon fibre or glass fibre.
I was thinking about putting together a test for this. I think for a lathe with minimal use like mine, it isn't a big problem, for something that's being used non-stop, that may be a different story. I'm in the process of getting some parts CNC machined from Brass and Bronze and I'll have a follow up to the video as well. I am also cleaning and then re-paining the lathe, so it should be a pretty nice unit if everything comes together.
Would nylon glass be a better option? The nylon is a better bearing material plus has stronger layer adhesion. Polymaker pa6gf is pretty stiff stuff and offer a more permanent install.
It would be worth a look, higher temp resistance as well, I believe that it would be more elastic, but correct me if you disagree. I can certainly put a test together, nylon-gf is a more standard material for industrial parts that needs to last and withstand high temps as well.
Depends on the glass fill ... the 25 percent stuff is very rigid. The 10 percent gf fill is fairly flexible. Happy to send you profiles for the q1 pro for a few gf nylon options i tuned.
@@zomie1 Thanks Zomie1. I'm also a little skeptical about the interior being GF and the shell being ABS on this product, with the nozzle being only a 0.4 and a fairly long trip to get to the nozzle through volcano..ish style nozzle, it seems to me that it would be hard to control the position of the glass. I suppose if the nozzle was a 1.75mm, the likelihood would be higher. Sure, that'd be great, I'll probably be about 1 month before I can get to the GF testing because I have so many other videos already in the works to finish up, but I'd love to have your fine-tuned stetting to begin with. Needitmakeit@gmail.com when you have a moment, and thanks!
Utilising reinforced/fiber filled filaments to make more accurate/stiff parts is definitely something everybody should consider. Though I would have liked to see a more comparable warp test where the other fiber filaments also were printed with the door atleast mostly closed. The abs being less warped than the pla is pretty telling if you ask me. Printing Petg can almost always be done with a closed chamber, especially fiberfilled stuff. Using it for a temporary solution for your maching hobby it's totally sufficient. I wonder how bad the wear could actually even be, i think there is a big difference in the solid vs molten behaviour and the types of dynamic/static forces being applied to the molten filament when being extruded vs solid functioning as a nut. I would image the particles on the outer surface would get dull and not do much after that. Also the filmstrength of oil or grease will prevent most of the wear you even could get anyway. Also please get some better calipers before you attempt making some complex/accurate parts on your lathe especially using it for inside dimensions. I had the same one you have and it was a poorly grinded and the faulty battery connections made it reset to 0 with a small tap making your measurements completely of if you don't notice this immediately. I can recommend the Chinese brand 'Shahe' it's still not expensive but the build quality and finish is worlds apart.
It's certainly worth a deeper look, I have a few videos to finish up and then I can certainly get back to this with some more advanced comparative testing. I don't think it would wear as much as other people think it will, it would depend a lot on use and lubrication used. The previous nut had no lubrication hole, my re-design has one added. Also I can see some fine chips getting in there so maybe a wiper on the leading end would do well also. To your point about the calipers, I've found mine to be quite accurate, I have proper analog mics as well, but I prefer these with the digital readout. I had to open mine up and re-solder the connection that broke, seems like a bit of an issue with this brand. I'll check out your recommendation, thanks for that. Maybe you'll see it in a future video. I had people complain about my garbage Allen keys, I bought some Wera keys and they're pretty nice. The ball end is a bit annoying if you ask me, handy in some cases but not when you're trying to use them to insert a small screw into a small hole with the key...
@@NeedItMakeIt I would like to see a video about the difference in surface finish and dimensional accuracy between different fiber filled and generic materials. Also how it affects overhangs and drooping. The slicer settings are certainly different at least, I print pla-cf the door closed with much less cooling than normal pla profiles. Do these settings with normal pla and it will sag so bad your top surfaces will be all divided from the infill below. I like to think that any extra heat surrounding the part is beneficial, I keep de door closed as much as possible even with regular pla I love pla-cf and how predictable and versatile it is. Parts come out dead straight/flat and with a premium looking surface finish. Chips getting in the lead screws can makes them really stiff to turn. Personally have never actually seen a wiper on and lead screw ever, the tactic is always just preventing and chips/grime getting on them in the first place getting your screws dirty is a big no no. And it's better to prevent than wipe. I wonder how effective a wiper could be, much of the smaller particles easily slip under normal bristles and bigger chips wouldn't get in between the threads to begin with. Any time I can use a hex screwdriver instead of normal allen wrenches i will. Only really use the normal wrenches when I need use a lot of force. Ball end hex keys are really only useful for people like car mechanics, when you frequently encounter situations where there is not enough room to turn the key. Otherwise it's mostly just a big hinderance when putting in screws.
That could be interesting, I've had some unexpected results with PETG-CF for example, it's not known for good bridging but I was getting voids after bridges on multiple printers, to solve it, I needed to peak the holes I was trying to bridge. As far as accuracy, that's interesting as well, and with that texture, how does the surface compress or does it compress easily. I've tested PLA already and with keeping it within an enclosure it is very hard to get just the right settings to have good results on overhangs, it would depend a lot on what you're trying to print. Sorry I don't have much time left I need to head to bed, it's getting late. I've taken my Lathe apart now and I have found chips where they just should not be they must have been bouncing off of parts. I agree a chip shield to keep them away is probably best, the current design on my lathe doesn't do a great job with this, there is evidence of steel chips getting below all of the sliding parts and scoring them. I would do a much better job of keeping the lathe clean after it's fully restored. I think I need to get a set of standard Allen keys, the balls are nice to have in a pinch, but I think the risk of slipping is too high for most of what I do on the smaller screws.
@NeedItMakeIt No worries about time man, I already appreciate you took some of it to spend on these rather comprehensive replies at all. I hadn't expected one to begin with and here I am writing yet another reply back. I wouldn't even expect this much interaction/engagement on a discussion forum haha. This turned out to be a long ass one, the second half is about your lathe The first thought that comes to my mind when you say '-CF' and ' bad bridging' is the one time I accidentally was using a 0.2mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm to print some parts that did not even have any overhangs in Bambu PA-CF. I spent the better of a whole day trying to get the top layer not to cave in. I thought I might have to do with cooling or whatever, I tried basically every setting I think could be related to bridging. One thing was for sure, something was up/off, though I thought it had to be down to the filament somehow, because technically it was. Turns out I had been using the 0.2mm nozzle as 0.4mm for more than 2 weeks or so. Haha Realising this after so much trouble with the PA-CF and basically no trouble with normal PLA really showed me the incredible difference CF fibers can have on the printing behaviour and properties of molten plastic. What made me realise where it was really going wrong was when I had noticed that instead of a bridged line it looked like tiny ramen noodles. I knew something was fundamentally wrong when I then turned down the bridge flow as far as 10% and I was still getting spaghetti. This made me finally pick up on having the wrong nozzle diameter installed. It was a crazy thing to get a flawless part out the first go when I just changed back to the right nozzle and stock profile settings. Soo Apparently CF filament can form rigged strands when being extruded through smaller nozzles than what it was "designed" for. Which could really mess up your bridging. So i would would love to hear back from you if you test out using a larger nozzle for printing that PETG-CF to see what this will do to your bridging! About your lathe and the mysterious in places that physics has a hard time explaining. This is a tell tail sign the previous owners had been cleaning it using compressed air or jets of coolant. This is the easy or 'lazy' way of doing it. The reason why this bad for your machine is the same why it's good for cleaning. The air/coolant gets in all the small little areas and helps to move the tiniest of particles out... but also in. Seeing the extreme wear on your lead screws made me think they had to have been using grinders and sand paper and not cleaning it. Now also hearing about your mystery chips makes this seem even more likely. And would also explain how these grinding particles ended up on your lead screws. At work we have a lathe from 1969, if you turn the screw on the cross slide it still only has a couple degree of play, and this is not because it got replaced at some point of that we don't use it much, we use it almost daily actually. We just avoid using any grinders or sand paper unless we absolutely have to, and if we do then cover the ways with something so it won't even get on there at all. Clean the the ways from any chips before making long slide movements. Only ever clean it using a machine brushes or a vacuum cleaner, no bristles you also use on the ground or any rags you aren't sure are clean. Good cleaning practices and a little occasional maintenance will keep a machine healthy for years and years. Your machine shows sings of neglect and miss use, i suspect the ways might also show sings of wear, basically having a "dent" in them. If its really bad you can see this with a straightedge, also this will show up as unexpected/faulty diameter changes at consistent places in the ways.
Great stuff! The brass T-nut is only threaded as long as brass needs to be. Couldn't you make the threads longer for more stability and durability? A direct replacement is always nice though! Just a thought if you had the room without having to space the chuck out 1/2" or something, heh heh.
But is the ABS-CF nut really better than the PETG one at all? Because better material properties in a lab test don't always translate into a better behaved part.
If there is enough interest, I can do a follow up video, I was thinking to take a new lead screw and mount several different materials to it with loads and see what happens over days and weeks of use. It's been suggested quite a few times to use Igus, so I'd like to try that one. Nylon would be another.
It should be easy enough with the right tools, I don't have the right tools, I'd need to custom grind some tooling and it's probably going to be something that I will try, the issue is that the bores are very small. I would imagine that both of these parts would have been tapped rather than single point threaded on the lathe. It's still a good challenge, I will also be looking at getting them CNC machined to see if from my 3D model I can get something that fits the screws correctly since there will be very little give in a brass or bronze machined part. That should be coming soon, within the next few weeks.
Wont the glass fibers REALLY grind away the rod once the plastic wears away and exposes the fibers (Which is very much a matter of short time)? glass is very abrasive and that is a stiff price to pay just for some... extra stiffness.
Would be cool to get the parts in 3D printed brass, if it's not crazy expensive. Or maybe just get a brass inlay with the threads and heatpress them into a plastic carrier part.
