this single print paid for my 3d printer 

Custom threads in f360? That's the real winner of the video

For your first design, try chamfering the end of the dowel before trying to jam it into the newly formed threads. This should provide a ramping start-of-cut and may help with the self-alignment

I'm a simple man. I see a Swedish Maker video, I watch and like. Edit: MORE COW CAMEOS! I'm so jealous you have cows. I love cows.

"I bet Jesus could do this with hand tools..." What a great line! 😂

They didn't have special machines or tools when they made those old woodworking benches. They drew on a spiral on the dowel, sawed a kerf along that line and then used rasps and files to form the threads.

Don't sweat the cows. They sound much better in the background than sirens and g_nfire. I love your life, too!

I would say to 3d print a section of the final threaded dowel that you can mount on the front end of the dowel. Then you could use that to get it started through your original jig and then once the bit starts cutting the threads, that's what will pull the dowel along as you twist it. Not all that different from your idea just with the advantage of having to print a shorter section and not needing to reposition the or print a really long thread like you did. But goo perserverance in hammering out the problem.

I think the cows were looking blank because you were speaking to them in English 😂 great video.

My favourite part was calling all the female cows with udders him. The thread prototyping came in a close second, great video

Perseverance is the final take of this video, and this is what you have with every video you do. You do not give up and neither should we.

Congratulations on passing the Engineering 101! The thread experiment oughta have given you a solid feel for tolerances, and when it comes to mechanical engineering, that's seriously half the battle. Amazingly done! I look forward to seeing what this actually will come out as.

Please have cows in every video from now on.

That was very enjoyable for many many reasons

Push all thread faces/planes 0.2mm inward. Don't just "scale" the entire thing.

Replace the cows with cats, the entire internet will love you for it!

Could have made a profile of the router bit and Sweep that profile around a helix path. Still think the original idea was the right path but you need to make alignment holes or pins to properly align the router to the jig. Also a elevation jig to set the bit height. That would probably be a good idea for another project so that the next big jig project can be easily and precisely aligned.

That's genius! My first conclusion to modifying custom threads was to model and spiralize them. But you found a more elegant solution. Also I really like that you haven't given up and found an ingenious way to solve the problem.

Great to see your rethinking the problem and coming with a different solution. This is literally thinking from the inside to outside the box (threadwise)

Great video. You can make jigs till the cows come home... literally!

Make sure you have a copy of your thread file - next time Fusion updates you are likely to lose it.

This is the most brilliant video I've seen in a while. The project, the story, the everything.

As someone playing a bit with wood and 3D printing and trying to get back to 3D moddeling, I can tell you that you perseverance is worthy of respect. I totally understand the frustration of going back and work on new iterations but I'm certainly not as good as you haha, well done!

Paid*

This was great! I love that you're using your 3D printer to allow you to do things besides make plastic parts. Thanks for sharing!

Glad you figured it out, this method was my exact first thought on your first attempt

Your production value has really increased as of late! I really enjoy being able to see more of your personality in your videos, in addition to your creativity and problem solving. Great content! Keep it up!

This feels so jarring, You are literally like proper printing but swedish, I love it

Really enjoyed the light hearted approach to this vid 🙂 And really looking forward to the next new workshop update 👍

2:28 There's a saying in Dutch: "people only close the well after a calf has drowned". This on is putting it to the test.

Now thats really nice to know! I wasnt aware that you can make your own thread definitions like that. In the past I've made custom threads by guiding a profile along the path of a coil. Create a body (with a triangular section), create a sketch with the custom thread profile you want. Then sweep that profile along one of the triangle edge of the coil.

10:02 as with any threads making tapering the front helps a lot .

What a great ride you took us on here. ❤❤

Single point thread cutting on a router table. I think that your final solution is a much better version than the first one and it also supports several passes with increased depth of cut which the first one can't really do without sacrificing precision (and I am an engineer, if that is worth anything...)

It's great to watch you work through the challenge. Bravo.

As a Swedish tinkerer living abroad I really appreciate your ideas and love to see your outdoor b-roll! Thanks for sharing 👍🏼

You know you can offset the thread faces to adjust the thread fitment. It’s usually necessary for 3d printed threads.

I think the first version will work. It seems like there was an alignment issue. If you print a threaded plug you can use it to align the threads and the bit and also get the right height on the bit

That was a wonderful journey. I have all those same emotions on nearly every project. Congratulations!

I appreciate you showing the process. There are so many curated youtube videos out there that only show the finished successful part.

Great video as always love watching how you keep trying and trying until you always get it. Never give up. Thanks for sharing

Man, you are absolutely killing it with the story in your videos. I need to be taking notes, congrats on all the success!

One of your better videos. I was rooting for you all the way on it and going through the emotions of excitement and disappointment. Well done! Can't wait to see the project

Love watching the journey of you figuring this out. Very cool.

Just gotta love ppl like you. Very nice project

Bravo, thank you for sharing your Win dude!

The cows Made the video ! That calf has star potential !

Very cool! Looking forward to seeing why you want a thread on the dowel...

One issue with accuracy might be due to your clamping direction: sideways against the 2x2 instead of down. Next time, try milling a slot for extruded T-Slot in the top of the 2x2, then use T-Slot clamps to hold the 3D printed jigs against the router table. Similarly, you can enhance the threading jig by adding a small printed ring to the bottom, so it locates in the router lift trim ring.

Great video. The setup, the plan, the cows, the success. Beautiful. Also, first tip to get better at CAD, use a mouse. For doing a thread with any profile you can make a sketch with your profile and cut from a cylinder it in a sweep operation.

My 3d printed threads are always a bit snug, so i add .2mm clearance to the relevant surfaces in f360 :) Great Video! 😊

Veldig gøy å se løsninga 😊 jeg har tullet litt med gjenger selv, og det er ikke alltid så lett.. hva om du hadde tatt de siste gjenger du laget (der du ved de passer) å gikk tilbake til første forsøk, der du freser inn i en blokk med gjenger på siste halvde? Jeg har troa på at det da kunne fungert 😊

Great video! Love the creative problem solving... what a great idea for a jig!

Thank you for this, you just solved a similar problem for me. 🙏

Engineering student here. Putting a peg in a hole can result in interference fitment if the hole is smaller than the peg. In other words, you jam it. If you want the peg to fit in the hole snugly, but not loose, the hole is only a tiny bit bigger. Since reality is never exactly the same as design, we have to have add a clearance. A tiny gap in design between the parts so that they can fit together as intended. How tight or loose it is depends on this clearance. You’ll be able to adjust this in fusion. There are plenty of RU-vid videos explaining how to do this for 3D printed parts, but it might require some testing because it may look differently for wood than it would PLA. Also as mentioned by others, you should sharpen the point of the screw to make it self align. It’s my first time on your channel and I like it so far. I’m a big fan of people who jump into projects like this. It’s the best way to learn. Great video

I haven't messed with Fusion 360 lately, but there should a sweep cut option on there you can draw a helix in the diameter and pitch that you need for any thread size you could imagine. You would have to define the thread profile yourself, but it is doable. It would also give you way more flexibility for getting things to fit since you're not stuck with a predefined thread profile. One of the great things about making is that there are multiple ways to solve something and I love the ingenuity!

Brilliant solutions! The biggest is the totally custom threads in F360, but the idea and design of the dowel-threading jig is fantastic too. Super-practical and super-easy to create (at least once you figure out the custom threads in F360 😁) Love your videos(!), the cows are a definite plus. “Cows as my muse”, I love it! 😂

I did the same thing in the 1980s with zero computers. And it probably took me a lot less time (from start to completed product in the same day). All I needed was two tight guides for the dowel, the 60 degree V bit, and a jig which held a 60 degree pin, similar to the bit, inside the second guide. The jig allowed the pin to adjust toward and away from the bit location. The jig held the pin at 90 degrees to the bit orientation. I had to "freehand" the first turn of a thread until the pin took over. Once the guided threads reached the guide it dramatically improved in consistency. Then I just disposed of the free-handed tip.

I think pask makes has a good video on wooden threads. I like your approach using 3d printer.

What do you do with the scrap prints/broken pieces?

Pierre your videos are getting so good! Great story telling!

5:21 wow that was smart! great job man

What a triumph! Awesome problem solving!

I'll admit the title intrigued me. Then when I learned what the subject was, I lost interest. But what kept me was your problem solving. Good job figuring it out! Excellent solution using the resources at hand.

Three minutes in and I was thinking of an old pipe threader with interchangeable die sets sequenced with progressive depth of cuts.

Bra jobba! Det er så utrolig tilfredsstillende å skjære gjenger og få det til å passe perfekt :)

I had the same thoughts you had throughout this video. Great problem solving solutions.

You are such an inspiration! THX

Wow ty for this. I want a garage now. More then ever.

I'm sorry, but can't you print the thing like in the first iteration of this project but based on the last iteration of internal threads? Just take this box with internal threads, remove half of it and add a hole for the blade? Wouldn't it let you to not print this long external threads thing but just use one little box for the entire length? Maybe even combine both ideas and use this new internal thread support in the front and the currently working external thread thing in the back. So that you get your wooden thread to begin with your solution and then continue by just pushing it like the previous guy did. I don't know if it'll work, but I guess that you might save some printing material without printing this long external thread thing

You are a damn good engineer!

That’s a clever way to design custom threads. My background in solid works 2014 requires that if you want to make threads that will convert to an STL file you have to do model them manually. So you start out with a hole or bar that’s the size you need. Then draw a thread profile at the correct diameter that is then cut into the material following a spiral at the correct pitch. Just like a tap, die or how you cut your threads. Nice work

One issue with unsealed wood is as humidity changes the wood will expand or contract, so using that with another material means your screw interface will get tighter or looser with humidity changes. Looking forward to seeing what you are building.

Would it also help to chamfer the dowel end as well as chamfer the starting edge inside the 3D printed receiving thread? Fundamentally that's needed for all nuts and bolts.

Respect man, the persistent wins !

Awesome content and great sense of humor.

I'd love to see what you can do with this... maybe a round spade drill bit to make the grooves look smooth, wide and rounded.....

love the editing in this video

Pask Makes has some great videos on wooden thread cutting, that will help you refine your approach.

Nice work, and use of your 3D printer! I just made myself a drill jig last night with my bambu lab printer. The Cows are awesome! More cows In videos!

I designed a part with threads in fusion, printed fine on my ender, but when I printed on my Bambu, the threads never work. I have yet to figure out why. Perhaps something with tolerances of the two machines and the pribt speed difference?

Engineering often requires some trial and error, well done for persisting with it, life has no mistakes - only opportunities for learning :)

Not sure if anyone suggested this. But i was thinking how do you keep making threads all the way down with a small jig like that. And an idea came to me. Put two screw holes in the screw block jig spaced to the thread gap. then as you move forward you can unscrew the jig, back it out to align the second hole with the used first hole. and put screw in. repeat. continuous thread machine?

I might look into the files you found. I'd like to make changes to include offsets for 3d printing the threads.

for someone like me who just prints files from makersworld etc I enjoy these videos a great deal.

giving "TONY STARK MADE THIS IN A CAVE... WITH A BOX OF SCRAPS" energy

Man I was there with you all the way willing the threads to work. I jumped up shouting at the TV when it worked thank god I’m worn out ❤

I would love a video of you figuring out how to mess with the 360 native thread files.

Alternative method, 3d print the leading threads and glue it to the end of the dowel, this would allow you to get the feed rate locked in before the bit engages the wood, it would also be better supported with the guide being closer to the cutting tool, once the wood is engaging the threads you are smooth sailing. After you can just snap/cut the 3d print extension off.

Beall Wood Threading and Tapping kit

when he started the Router table, i thought the cows were starting up again 😄

small fusion 360 tip: make custom threads with the coil tool instead of the thread one, it gives you more control without having to mess with XML files

Awesome stuff!!

Awesome video!🎉

I am extremely impressed. However, I do have to ask if you have a way to make the receiver. In other words, do you have a wood nut for that screw?

opening shot is funny. Guy is like a foot off the ground. Says the trees behind him lol

The little clap at 13:24 when it finally worked made my day. Thanks

Maybe also try a guide bushing for positioning the bit in the first attempt .

I have a1 and mini and mk4 but your thumbnail makes me want a p1p now

+1 sub, that method is really freaking cool Once you get the thread started thou, you can probably make the mill cut the rest of the thread?

Great video! I think you could use the first jig if you cut the end in half to a depth of at least your screw pitch; that way the router bit can enter from that new plane in the middle of the dowel