Thanks! There are a couple more of me drawing the plans (not these ones exactly but the a-frame version). It wasn't that hard to do, you just gotta dive in!! Good luck and thanks for watching!
I must say l have search architect videos and this video covers exactly what l was looking for. If you show the written information on right it would be complete to understand the permit requirements. Thanks
Glad it was what you were looking for. I didn't share the stuff on the right of the first page just because it has my address on it. Basically the top had the address, parcel number, square footage, and lot size. Next it was the specific codes that it had to advise by (basically all the 2012 residential building codes) Next was an index just showing the page number and what was on that page (cross section, floor plan etc. Hope that helps, otherwise if you send me a message on Instagram I can send you a picture of how I set that info up.
Looks like a nice sized couples cottage but have you thought about how flexible it would be to do an addition if you decide to have kids sometime in the future? When shopping for the staircase, really evaluate the ease of use with a sprained ankle, broken leg or back injury. Handrails will be a feature you will appreciate when one of you eventually has an injury that affects your mobility. I have a spinal cord injury and if we had a typical small spiral staircase we would be looking at a major remodel or potentially even being forced to sell if we couldn't afford the remodeling. Speaking of spiral staircases... they are not well suited for moving furniture so you should give some thought to getting a window that can open enough or have panels that can be easily removed in case you need to move something that simply won't fit up a spiral staircase.
The plan is to EVENTUALLY build a second house on the property and rent this one for aome extra income. That of course will happen a while down the road. One of the reasons we added the second bedroom downstairs is to push out how soon we will meed to build the new one. As far as the spiral staircase goes, we are getting the largest one that will fit in the space which Ironically is exactly what the code requires for egress. One of the windows upstairs (mostlikely the one that looks out over the first floor roof) will be able to fully open so if we ever had a large peice of furniture that didn't dis assemble we could get it in through there, although it wouldn't be ideal, it would work... Thanks for all the feedback it's been a heck of a time ttying to think of everything in advance so we don't get ourself into a pickle!
Poots Pastures 👍 Thinking through all the possible issues and requirements ahead of time is always a challenge. That house should make an excellent rental unit someday and you'll build up so much more knowledge and experience that the next one will be even better for you. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.
We've only had two inspectors actually look at the plans and the oknly change he noticed was we changed where the range hood was going, not the extra bedroom we added lol
I love your other videos too -- You make good points about using the Zip sheathing instead of the house wrap. My QUESTION TODAY is: Did you do your drawings on 1/4 inch grid paper? Did you use the 8.5 x 11 and then have it enlarged for blueprints or what? Thanks for all you do.
Thanks! And we did use 1/4" grid paper, amd we just went to Michael's and bought a book of paper that was 12x18. They also have architectural rulers there. Depending on how big of a structure your doing you could get away with 8.5x11. Our building g department required a scale of 1/2 inch = 1 foot so we needed a larger size. And we didn't get any of the plans enlarged we just made copies. There are places that can enlarge your plans and keep them to scale though.
Nice work! How did you discover the span capabilities and spacing requirements of the I-joists? Can you also comment on how you calculated the BTU requirements?
The company that manufacturers the I joists has a "specifiers guide" and in that guide there is a chart that has maximum clear span lengths for each of their joist sizes as well as the spacing for each of those joists. For the roof the same chart exists, it is just a little more complicated as it has snow loads included. However I know some people who have gotten their floor and roof plans directly from the company, not sure what is required for that but they were an owner builder like me.
Very nice bud! I am in the process of wanting to build large dormers on my 22 x 24 ft garage w/ 12-12 pitch. I have added 2 x 10s w/ simpson bracket on outside next to existing 2 x 6s, glue lamb in center covered w/ 3/4 t&g. I want the dormers to be 12 to 14 ft wide going both directions, front and back with same style windows as in house. I have 12 ft head room from ridge to floor. My plan is to approach planning/building county dept that it will be a craft/storage room with power. Any Thoughts? Great video!!
Excellent video. I am now drawing my own plans thanks to your help. I'm guessing that you don't need engineer stamped plans where your located? How did you figure out your snow and wind loads? Where I'm at they exceed the code book chart.
So snow load was easy because the county treks us what our snow load requirment is and then the I joist manufacturer has a chart that you look at that tells you the maximum span of different size joists depending on snow load. So you can just used the chart for that. And as far as wind load where we are is not anything crazy high So we didn't really take anything into account. We used continuous sheathing on the house we basically every where there wasn't a window or a door counts as a shear wall. Our county does the calculations and then if the shear walls didn't meet the requirements they wouldn't approve it and would tell you what needed to be changed. We also didn't need an engineer as long as everything built confirmed to code. It sounds like you may need engineer stamps plans which makes it a little more complicated, but you could just give your plans to the engineer and explain what you were doing and then they would tell you if it would work or not and what to do to make it work. Hope that helps!
@@PootsPastures I am impressed with your ability to draw plans from scratch. I am lucky to have you to cheat off. It feels like being back in school L😂 L. I will be bouncing this off an engineer. Thank you for the quick response and heads up on the chart. Your home looks great!
Thanks! And I would be interested to hear if the engineer had any concerns that would correspond with our design. I will say that I spoke to an engineer since our wall heights are 12 ft tall, and they did mention wanting to look into the snow load because of a chance of snow drifts building up.
Good job! Apparently you have had some education in construction. My 1st question is how can I learn what a foundation looks like? I want a slab foundation -- I think a monolithic slab would be ok for my very small one-story house, but I also need the cheapest, so I think that too would be the monolithic. How can I find out how to draw that?
Thanks! And I have had no formal construction training, as a kid I did really like looking at blueprints though. And you wold draw a monolithic slab basically the same way. For the first floor framing plan you would just show the dimensions of the pad. The rebar spacing and size. Then you would show a cross section of the slab. I'm not an engineer so I'm not sure how thick the slab would need to be on the edges (the load bearing parts). I have seen people do a 1 foot x 1 foot trench around the whole foundation but I have also seen thicker. Additionally if you have hard freezes in your area you will have to have the foundation go below the frost line. My suggestion is drive around your area and find some homes being built. If you can find them before the foundation is done you would be able to see how they built it. You could also speak to contractors in your area who would most likely tell you what is normal. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Also I will have a video coming out this spring where we pour a 30 x 20 slab which may help.
All I want as a job is to just make floor plans showing the shapes of the buildings and where the furniture will go. Is there any job that just does that???? Please tell me!!!
Yes! That was my plan, I found one draftsman in our area and they were on par with what the architects were charging. It's hard up here because the people who are usually building are from out of state and have some deep pockets lol so all of our process are inflated. We recently had a 5 acre lot near us sell for 280k! Thanks for watching and for the comment!!
Thank you. Can the footing go beyond the setback? In your example, the footing is 3 foot outside the building edge, can the building edge be on the setback or should it be 3 feet away?
That would depend on your local building department, but where we are they cared about weather the exterior wall was clear of the set back, and didn't care about anything underneath the ground. Thanks for watching hope that helps!
I assume they would require one because it's a gas stove, but we just had one and didn't really think about weather it was required or not. I know if you do have a hood they have to terminate outside and move at least 100cfm of air.
are there any details on how the plans actually have to be drawn, the way shown in the video looks really tedious if not impossible for someone at home with some printer paper a pencil and ruler, do you need to draw the walls and such in the 2d shown or is a bold line with dimension beside it sufficient
Good question, the best resource would be your local building department to see what they need. I would guess that if you are building a house it will need to be just as detailed, but if it's a barn or shed you may be fine. Our building department required a specific scale (1/4" = 1') so a standard price of paper would have been too small. Bieber if you are planning on doing it yourself most any art or office store would have larger graph paper and an architectural ruler.
@@PootsPastures the local planning office seems to be purposely as unhelpful as possible, i ask them how theyd like the plans drawn and they say theirs no specific requirements for how theyre drawn just to follow the canadian building code.. which is thousands of pages of extremely specific code most all of which doesnt pertain to me.. ask for any examples at all and they have none ask any question at all and they just tell you to look it up in the building codes.... ill just start firing plans at them.. like mud at a wall something will have to stick eventually
Did you consider using conventional lumber and supporting your spans with additional beams? It would have been more work but I wonder if there's a big cost difference? Or are I-joists a no-brainer?
I didn't want to have to include additional pads inside the foundation, as well as additional pockets for beams and such in the walls. There is not a large difference when using traditional lumber to clear span, but nothing is really capable of doing that so once you add the beams and additional posts it becomes cheaper to do the I joists. The main reason I went with the I Joists is so I didn't have to use beams in the center so it was a clear choice for me.
I was also told that wood could not be my primary source of heat. I am required to have a means of maintaining a temperature of 68° through out the entire house. What pellet stove did you decide to go with?
We haven't decided yet, all of the ones I like are about the same price as a mini-split a/c system, so we may end up doing that which would be nice because then we would have ac in the summer.
You could probably find some on Amazon or a local drafting store. My locality only required a specific scale and did not require a paper size, so you may want to check on that. If they do require a certain size you may just want to talk to one of the plan examiners because they may be able to make an exception for you. Good luck!
I worked on it a couple hours at a time over a week, but it's doable in a weekend it just takes alot of focus to make it look nice. Hopfully that answered your question! Thsnks for watching!
This is great, I'm trying to help out one of my relatives with the submittal/ building plan to submit. Though I don't have any electrical, plumbing or architectural background. I wanted to ask if we have to be so technical when drawing the electrical wiring in the layout? or just drawing a pretty plan with assumed power points, sink, rooms and doors would do and just put the building codes stated by the county per our understanding? and do we also need to specify the material that will be used for the base, lintel, framing etc, also the thickness of the walls and the filling?
Good questions, depending on what your particular codes in your area are you will have to specify. Some areas don't have any adopted codes and no plans need to be submitted to the locality. Assuming your locality does require plans to be submitted and approved, every locality has different requirements for what they want to see in the plans. Most places will require an electrical plan showing the outlet and switch locations, as well as lighting locations. This is done because there are code requirments for how close together outlets have to be, as well as requiring gfi outlets in certain proximities to wet locations, and 3 way switches are required in some instances. The building department wants to make sure that all of those "safety" type issues are taken care of, and there is a safe electrical plan in place. The same thing goes for most of the other items. They want to make sure that your stud sizes and spacing can support the roof load and that the roof rafters can support the snow load. And that the size and type of foundation will support the structure. I am a big proponent of getting rid of codes but if they are there we gotta work with them. Most localities will have a list of everything they require in a building plan. I got that list and just went page by page and it made it a lot more manageable then looking at the whole picture, so reach out to them and they should be able to help. Most likley you will submit a plan, they will correct it with everything that is wrong and needs to be corrected, then you will submit a corrected set of plans. If you are curious about the plumbing and electrical codes I point people towards the dewalt code reference books as they are easy to understand and take you room by room. Hopfully that helps! If you have any other questions let me know!
So your county approved your blueprints? I'm learning as much as I can because I would like to build on empty lots we own next to our home and was wondering if I could do my own blueprints. I was told by zoning I would have to have the lots split from our home in order to build another home. Your videos are so helpful.
You should be able to draw your own blueprints, you're zoning department should have a document that tells you what they require to be shown in the blueprints (at least mine did). Then you'll submit the completed plans and they will either accept and approve them or send them back to you to be corrected. I went in with the plans several times before I actually submitted them to ask questions and make sure I was on the right track. The other option you have is to work with a draftsman (instead of an architect) they would be a little cheaper and you would communicate the design you want and then they would put it on paper and make sure it met the code etc. And as far as the lot splits go that all depends on what zone the lot is in and how many dwellings you are allowed to have on each lot. I wish you luck! It was a fun process but also a stressful one! If you have any specific questions let me know and I'll try and answer them the best I can!
I'm working on getting them up on our website and will make an announcement when I do, I just gotta figure out some liability stuff since I'm not an engineer or architect lol
It is not, our origional plan with the A-Frame wa going to be, but this one the second floor will be completley inclosed... there are some weird codes that require walls over 10 feet to be signed off by an engineer and we didn't want to pay for an engineer otherwise we would have made it a mezzanine. Thanks for watching!
What do you mean it's not legal now? It absolutely is, you just have to work with your locality to make sure your plans include everything they require.
