i own a 2014, 25th anniversary, running the Garrett GT2860rs, 8 psi boost, makes 305bhp. converted at 3k miles, absolutely superb for 22k miles.. Suddenly for no apparent reason a conrod let go, popping out thru the block. Appears the conrod had a manfacturing fault. BBR have only seen 2 other cars do this out of the 700+ conversions they have done. Have now put a fully forged built engine in it.Wossner pistons and rods, mazda forged crank. Same turbo etc. now running 321 bhp. No problems so far. Have seen a few get valve cover oil leaks, heat from the turbo housing warping the plastic valve cover. Your kit is very very similar to the BBR kit, so should be excellent. 🥰
@johncrofts6058 That sounds like an awesome build! We have been paying very close attention to the plastic valve cover due to the proximity to the very hot turbocharger, but so far, we haven't run into any issues. We have been experimenting with a couple ways to help keep the valve cover safe, which has probably contributed to that.
Man I really like those 2013-14 clubs. It’s really what I want. But I found a deal on an 09 sport 5 speed. Can you the turbo on the 5 speed? You guys are great. I hope to use some of your products once I get a car. I just need to grit the teeth and spend the money. It sucks being frugal and wanting a sports car. Haha. Thanks for another great video.
Of course, why not. Look at the Nissan GTR (565 - 600hp). As for daily driven stiff suspension with crappy roads, could be personal preference. In Hawaii(Oahu Island) roads suck, very bouncy when my tein are set to a stiffer setting. So I just turn the knob to a less responsive setting. However, that was 13 years ago. Roads Could be worse could be a little bit better. With EV cars some being 1000+ HP from the factory, Mazda Miata MX5 Roadsters is way way behind, IMHO, a Toyota GR three banger(cylinders) has 300hp 😂. Awesome YT channel, Flyin' Miata, please keep it up 😊🎉❤.
I think the older manuals called for 5w-20 because 0w-20 hadn't been invented yet. I don't think there's any relevant changes in the engine. My 2011 NC2 specifies 0w-20 on the fill cap.
I've run the FMSC and then later a turbo kit from another company on a 2.0 and 2.5. One problem I ran into consistently, and never completely solved was with high engine temps. I ran the biggest radiator you offered, I ran an external thermostatically controlled oil cooler, I installed the singular hood vents, and relocated battery to the trunk. I think the biggest issue is that the intercooler location blocked or interrupted proper air flow to the radiator. Cruising at highway speeds, staying out of boost it would run too hot. How are you controlling engine temps and ensuring proper air flow through the radiator? Also, what are you doing to keep that primary CAT alive under boost and heat? ....I've melted them using the FMSC in the past.
We're focused on heat management with our new turbo kit but I haven't heard of any overheat issues with our previous SC kit. I'd check the basics like radiator cap pressure, coolant mixture, tune, and make sure your splash pan is in good shape. Our tune will be spot on but the more you run at the track, the more your cat will degrade. There's not much getting around it, really.
I asked about the fm nc turbo kit on the announcement video, whether it would be suitable for rhd cars due to the location of the bmc. Everything else aside from some pipework positions should be the same or very similar, calibration should surely be compatible between usdm and UK cars... With that in mind... Do you think you will ever supply these for rhd cars or is that not something you'll ever really consider? I'd love to have a newly developed fm turbo kit in the UK. Thanks.
The big challenge is likely to be the steering column, and unfortunately we don't have any RHD cars here to work on. So at the moment, we don't actually know.
The NC engine is completely different from the NA/NB one - they're not related at all. We did take proper coolant flow into account when designing the kit, thanks to lessons learned on our NA/NB systems as well as what Ford did on the Ecoboost.
The FMSC should be around 220rwhp so, our turbo kit should be a decent jump in HP from it. It's a little too early to tell what the max HP will be at. Stay tuned!
Thank you for this. I wrote several months ago to ask the following question: Would this work well on a low-mileage (28,000 km) 2008 NC PRHT? I'm posing it again on the off-chance that your testing--and the advice you have received about the turbo kit may have caused you to ask yourselves questions about amping up the power on the pre-facelift (NC Mark 1) engine (which does not have a forged crankshaft and upgraded piston gear). Finally, would this be something that could be plumbed in with the Mishimoto catch can system? (and would that help keep the intake runners / turbo itself clean).
Sorry if we missed your previous question. If it was a RU-vid comment, once we repost the video in 4k, the original video, along with its comments, no longer exists. As long as your engine is up on its maintenance and is in good running condition, our turbo kit isn't pushing the engine hard enough to need upgraded internals.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Well, that would save me about ten grand (I think that this is how much one can buy and retrofit a brand-new NC-2 engine (factory build). Cheers for this.
@@FlyinMiataVideo if I heard you right, we’ll be uploading a tune onto the stock ECU vs piggyback for the NA/NB kits? If that’s correct, I’m surprised you can tune the OEM ECU and get CARB approval.
We've yet to test our kit on an Automatic NC, so we aren't too sure how it will perform. As far as fitment goes, there shouldn't be any changes between the manual kit.
There are many high horsepower automatics built with turbos by other companies. They hold up very well. Look at some of the forums and you'll find lots of information on boosted automatics. There's even a shift kit available that helps make the shifting faster and more precise.
Good question! The output of our kit should be suitable for all NCs in good running condition. We don't want to require upgraded engine internals or built transmissions to have fun with our kit. If you prefer more HP, there might be additional mods that need to be done to have a reliable car.
Since the 2.5 swap isn't technically emissions legal, it's not something we'll be actively testing. That said, as long as you use motor mounts that put the 2.5 head in the same location (vertically) as the stock 2.0 head, our turbo kit should fit fine. We can't be 100% since we haven't tested it, but we can't find any reasons that it wouldn't work. Anything that could be affected by the height of the engine has enough adjustability in it to account for that additional height.
I’ve been coming up on a decade on my turbo NC, but if I had to do it again I would have done a K swap. Forced induction doesn’t suit the character of a lightweight rwd roadster for me.
Stock rev-limit is retained on our current test cars and it's worked well. However, we may revisit this before our official release in the name of reliability. Stay tuned!
Good question! We didn't have an auto to test it on but we do think it will. Like our kits for the NA/NBs, you might need to massage the DP some but that really should be it.