@@robt3305 I was watching the same video and seriously thought that it was going to discharge. Most instructional videos show cleared chambers prior to demonstrations. But maybe it’s just me….
Saw a article maybe 30 years ago, man was in the woods with a old ruger black hawk and accidentally probably hit a branch discharging a 44 into his leg, before the hammer bar. If you know anything about these and cowboy days always resting in a empty chamber
Never ever ever carry a gun of any kind in your pocket without a holster. They make really cool pocket holsters that stay in your pocket when you pull your weapon.
New pistols with a transfer bar are able to be carried fully loaded because if the hammer drops as long as the trigger isn’t depressed then the transfer bar isn’t there to allow it to fired, but if it is older or has no transfer bar it’s safer to carry on an open cylinder.
@@jondough9534 not even 2 squeezes cus if you cock the hammer it rotates the cylinder, the gun doesn’t fire the chamber its resting on, single or double action, if you have a revolver your first shot will be the second round
@@theautodidacticman_ its a joke, i used to sell guns for several years and rossi is notorious for “getting what you pay for” they are low quality and break often, not something i would rely on
I had an old Rossi 44 mag just for fun. I recently seen a shiny nickel .357 mag for a steal of a deal and bought it. I been hearing about this recall and thinking about trading off for the new one!
If you are really afraid of it going off the only true way to be 100 percent sure is the cowboy load. Load 1 round, skip a cylinder, load 4 more (or 3 depending on your gun), lower the hammer on the empty cylinder
that method is no safer than fully loaded for modern revolvers. If someone wasn’t sure, I’d suggest they disassemble and learn how their gun works. The best way to trust something is to know exactly how it functions.
If I were someone who knew nothing about guns, I would think that you just told me to fire one round, and then release the trigger to set the hammer block.😂😂😂
Who carries a single action? DA revolvers for carry make sense. If you consider carrying single actions then please watch more defensive shooting videos
These fears are only really a thing in old revolvers, that didn't have a transfer/safety bar. This issue didn't only happen to single action revolvers, as early double action revolvers also didn't have the bar built in.
It’s automatic for me. Dry cylinder or not my heart skips a beat every time somebody drops a hammer indoors or not aimed at her ground in a non populated direction.
I love how he’s swearing by it (Hunched over holding carefully pointed away from him) and then when he switches the hammer back in he goes alright nervously 😂
Basically if you're using a single action revolver it won't go off in your pocket unless you pulled the hammer all the way back and pulled the trigger........also by the way Alec Baldwin killed that person on purpose.
What's asked is.... "If I have the hammer resting on a live round, will the round go off if I dropped said firearm"... You didn't answer the question...
He should have tapped it on hammer spur with a little brass mallet with live rounds ro demo the blocking action. It would be ideal to demo the same with 19th century revolvers in a few configurations. I knew a man named Mitch who was killed by an unintended discharge from a cap&ball revolver.
@@DoraTheMFDestroya really? Hmm... Funny because light strikes happen with inertia firing pins on ARs... The question for ARs was "will the round go off if done too hard or too many times?"... Someone chambered the same round 100 times and showed it wouldn't go off... Why cowboy load? Because a hammer sitting on a live round and the revolver drops out of a holster then the firearm goes off because of the hammer getting hit... It's different than a 1911 when it's cocked and locked... The hammer will break off before it causes the firing pin to discharge a round... Load up a revolver completely, rest the hammer on a live round... And smack the spur of the hammer with a rubber mallet... If the round discharges then that's how you answer the question
@@woodydavis8287 Completely agree... My mother had a single action discharge with the hammer resting on a.live round and the revolver dropped out of a holster
They also make grips for most revolvers that have a hammer shroud, making it much more difficult to block the hammer, whether it be from an accident, or from firing in your pocket.
This is well put and completely correct. I speak as an instructor with 35 years of experience and advanced training both military and civilian. To draw from your pocket without snagging the hammer on your pants requires two things: #1 a good pocket holster to keep the gun properly oriented for the draw. #2 when you begin to draw the gun from the holster, put the tip of your thumb against the back of the hammer so it forms a sort of shroud that deflects any sort of a snag. Be prepared to fire the piece double action by securing a full combat grip at the start. Finger off the trigger until muzzle is on the target.
It is NOT "well put." He left out key information by not explaining what the hammer block does AND how it works. I would not be surprised if some here actually did end up putting a round through their wall.
@@ronbloomberg the question was “can you safely carry a loaded revolver?”… if you want him to do a video explaining what a hammer block does AND what it does maybe you should ask him in the comments and MAYBE he’ll do a video just for you princess. Idk just a thought, don’t sit here saying the video was well put when in actuality the video was exactly what it needed to be. He provided a question & answered his question, he just didn’t answer YOUR question(s) and that’s why you have a problem. 🤡 makes no sense.
@@TrapstarWock I have no questions.... I know exactly how every part of that gun works. But for people that aren't completely knowledgeable or new to revolvers it is totally confusing. Watch it as many times as you need to until you realize what he left out in the middle of his video. You may or may not catch on. Here's a thought: Take a gunsmithing course and maybe you'll end up knowing half of what I know about firearms - I do have 38 years experience as a gunsmith. 🙂
I didn’t think old revolvers with a firing pin on the hammer had a transfer bar. The new revolver without a firing pin on the hammer has those transfer bar; from Taurus, Ruger, Rossi, S&W and Colt.
I like how you’re focusing on the gun instead of on the camera like most people. Makes me nervous as all hell when they’re fiddling with a pistol staring into the camera like “😀”😂😂
Oh, that was actually pretty helpful. I’ve always wondered about that. Someone told me to leave one chamber empty in a revolver, so I always have limited me to five shots lol
Okay the REAL answer is if you want to carry a double action revolver in pocket you shave the hammer spur off or buy one with no hammer spur. It will be double action only for obvious reasons but will be pocket friendly now
When you have to draw a hammer spur revolver, like that one, you place your thumb on the hammer spur while drawing, to keep anything from hooking on it as you pull up. Been there done that.
That box on the left...... My grandfather passed away some years ago and left that very exact box. Exactly like it. Same drawers, green felt and everything. Only problem is, it's full of so many meticulous precision tools that I have no idea what any of them are. That's cool to see it online.
The modern revolvers Ive carried dont have the firing pin on the hammer, they use a transfer bar between the hammer and the firing pin that only rises into position when the trigger is being pulled.
No sir, that is a Smith & Wesson with a hammer mounted firing pin it uses a hammer block and rebound slide. Smith & Wesson did not start using transfer bar safeties until they started frame mounting the firing pins.
@@roscoschmosco5524 the newer ones do use a transfer bar, and the old ones use the hammer block. Thanks for keeping me honest. However, the rebound slide is responsible for forcing the trigger forward after the shot; it has no function upon the hammer block that I recall. I have a love/hate relationship with S&W small parts quality in revolvers. This causes PTSD, as I lament over how easy it is to ruin hammers and triggers.
The Rossi revolvers like the model 68 have a Hammer Block like the S&W revolvers. And they (the rossi´s hammer blocks) exactly like the S&W´s hammer blocks.
Another question ~ what are you hiding in those nice Gerstner tool boxes? 😂 I have the same top box vintage early 70s, but haven’t found a matching base to it yet.
He didn't look too confident about removing his thumb and having the gun not go off. Did you see how tensey was and how he looked so relieved when it didn't?
Only for the old style single action revolvers, like the SAA Colt or copies of. A double action revolver, like the one in the video, is perfectly safe fully loaded.
The fact he didn’t check if the gun was loaded before cocking the hammer and pulling the trigger just tells you this could’ve gone a lot worse than it actual had
Hammer block and transfer bar are two different mechanisms used in revolvers to enhance their safety features. A hammer block is a safety mechanism that prevents the hammer from striking the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled. It is usually a small metal piece that is positioned between the hammer and the firing pin. When the trigger is not pulled, the hammer block is engaged, and it physically blocks the hammer from striking the firing pin. This prevents accidental discharge even if the hammer is struck or dropped. A transfer bar, on the other hand, is a safety feature that transfers the impact of the hammer to the firing pin only when the trigger is pulled. It is a small metal bar that connects the trigger to the hammer and the firing pin. When the trigger is pulled, the transfer bar is lifted, allowing the hammer to hit the transfer bar, which then strikes the firing pin. This ensures that the gun can only be fired when the trigger is pulled, preventing accidental discharge. Both the hammer block and transfer bar mechanisms are commonly used in modern revolvers to increase their safety and reliability.
Remember, Al Capone once shot himself while golfing. He was packing a revolver, on one swing he cocked the hammer back, the follow through is when it went off.
Idk about this revolver the guy didn't really explain However colt invented safety for revolvers long ago. Positive lock or something like that. Basically for a lot of revolvers if you pull the hammer back and let it strike it won't actually fire unless you pulled the trigger They are drop safe, all that. Very safe weapons actually provided they have that feature
One time my dad had his revolver in his pocket on slightly cocked”safety”, so he was swing nunchucks and hit the hammer through his pocket and shot a hole in the fridge
Nothing is every 100% safe but the odds of a heavy double action trigger getting pulled unassisted are as close to zero as you can get. I carried shrouded snubbies a lot unholstered in winter coat pockets. Just don’t have anything else in the pocket with the pistol and you’ll be fine. 👌
S&W based designs without the side plate mounted blocking piece will fire if dropped. That's why S&W created that small piece that goes down and up everytime you pull the trigger. This systrm to push the hammer has no efective blocking capability. I fired dozens of primed cases on old S&W just bumping the hammer on a wooden table.
What modern revolver DOESN'T have a safety mechanism that protects for that? That's one of the oldest problems that revolvers had, and manufacturers fixed it in modern ones.
I trust it. I was in a situation I run out of ammo in my sidearm. my Friend gives me a spare 38 revolver. I pull the hammer back and throw the gun like a grenade. even being fully pulled back the gun still doesn't discharge. gave me enough time to go for my primary lol 😆 🤣
I gotta thang for snubbies. Though I've read going from say 3" to 2" for a .357 chamber, you lose around 200 fps. E.g. 2" would be 950 fps vice 3 inches is like 1050 fps. Can any gun expert enlighten me? In terms of pure power would a .357 mag out of a snub still be "powerful" compared to say a 9mm out of a full length (e.g. 5" glock)?
From the tests I’ve seen, a .357 magnum round out of a a 2” can be practically equal to a 9mm +P out of a full size in terms of velocity and energy, so still a tad more powerful than the average 9mm. Now there’s plenty of variations to consider when it comes to the specific load you choose, plus gun choice and a load of other factors. You do lose velocity and energy out of smaller barrels, though 200fps per inch of barrel is on the extreme end. From what I’ve seen, the average is closer to 50-100. A good video to watch is Paul Harrel’s “How Does Barrel Length Change Velocity”. But in general, .357 is still plenty powerful out of a snubby.
I can’t speak to some of the foreign made revolvers. But this has been a point of contention for ye old faithful the Colt Single Action Army. The first notch in a SAA hammer is the safety notch and Colt had in their manuals and on the instructions on the lid of the box that you could load all six chambers and you would lower the hammer to the safety notch. It wasn’t until the mid 1960s early 1970s that the “cow boy load” became a common recomendation after there were lawsuits filed against Ruger who’s Blackhawk revolvers had a similar lockwork to the Colt. Most (though not all) doubles actions at the turn of the 19th/20th century had automatic rebounding hammers without a trigger block. Although it was incredibly rare there were a few instances where dropped guns did fire when the hammer was hit directly. What’s not often told in those stories is the rebound notch and sear of the commonly used Galland/Fagnus lockwork was often deformed or broken by that action. Which took (even for the time ) an incredible amount of force. A test was done on a mock-up of colts SAA lockwork to see how much force it would take to deform or break the rebound notch in the hammer and it was found it took a little over 250 lbs of energy to deform the notch, and that was with unheat treated (or soft) steel, not the hardened steel used in most gun lock works. Hammer blocks were a safety feature that all but eliminated an already rare event on a properly made and maintained firearm. Emphasis on properly made and properly maintained. If your buying a gun used or one from a manufacturer with a spotty reputation, have a gunsmith who is familiar with revolvers inspect it before you carry it. And if you do carry a revolver be VERY careful about modifying or filing on ANY sear engagement surfaces as that is also part of your safety margin for accidentally dropping a revolver.
It's amazing that even the Smith and Wesson revolvers made in the late 1800's (like in the 1880's) have hammer blocks also. I thought that was a more modern design, but they've been like that about as long as they've been double action. I'm actually surprised I don't recall many older single actions ever having hammer blocks. (I could just be ignorant of them. That's entirely possible). As far as I know though, not even most of the modern reproductions have them or even the non-reproduction single actions.
