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The internal haze is NOT from "inferior glass". It is due to the use of balsam glue (clarified tree sap) to cement lens elements together. This was a common practice on many lenses through the 1960s. Eventually the glue components separate, spreading to the internal works of the lens. It is indeed common in many older lenses (yes even Leitz) and is difficult to remove. Tooth paste is less than ideal since it contains many other additives which could do worse damage down the road.
The haze appears on the surface of the glass on the rear element, not between the rear elements. The haze is usually covered with an oily gunk. The haze can be polished off, but requires a properly machine. The glass is indeed "inferior," which is why it affects only 2 models of this lens, the f/1.8 and f/1.2. The f/1.4 and f/2.2 models are impervious to this problem, though they use the same lubricant. The 7.5mm f/3.5 Olympus Zuiko lens is also infamous for this issue.
I have a canon L3 and I pulled the shutter lever to take a photo but I spun the release ring and and the camera made a sound as if taking a picture, and now I discovered that ring actually is for rewind, so my question is as follows: now i can’t use the film anymore and I will need to remove it?
Hello. I would like to ask for your advice. Right now I'm interested in the Canon VI and P. I can't decide since they're both beautiful. Which one should I choose? And is there a 50 mm 1.4 chrome lens and is it expensive? Or is there any substitute?
I just purchased a Canon P. Just curious if anyone else has trouble seeing the 35mm frameline. It is so out of frame no matter how close I place my eye. Is this normal also if it is has anyone found a work around?
Only the super old ones. It's Leica Thread Mount not M mount. Voigtlander made some outstanding lenses for the cam too, as far as I know the most modern glass for these
Well built camera but no way as good as a Leica I know Leica are expensive but if you buy a iii series they are well made , probably the smallest rangefinder ever made. And really good rangefinder and just beautiful and pocketable
At video 8:24 "make the rest of the shutter speeds a little bit more accurate" - Wow, talk about practicing 'camera repair' without a license. - I bet after doing this kind of repair to the cameras you sale, they're then considered "Overhauled" - "Refurbished" or C L A'ed and in Mint +++ condition (Ebay Japan geesh...). - Totally irresponsible advise, tightening shutter curtain barrel springs without 1st sanitizing & relubricating then utilizing the aid of a proper 3 sensor shutter speed tester (you need to know the Curtain Travel Times !). But what do I know, I've been a full-time camera service technician since 1978...
Toothpaste??? on a coated lens.....Seriously??? The toothpaste can and will remove even modern lens coatings. You really shouldn't be giving advice about camera repair if this is the sort of information you intend to provide. Just Stop!!!
Seriously. I have worked on literally hundreds of these lenses, and have learned from experience what works and what doesn't. In the case of these Canon lenses, certain models used an inferior glass, solvent gases from the helicoid lubricant adhere to the lens coating, and eventually pass through it and etch the glass. For lenses where the haze is still only on the coating, they may or may not be cleaned chemically, those which are not must be cleaned abrasively, there is no other way to do it. I have used various lens polishing compounds over the years, such as cerium oxide or various aluminum oxides, but found them to be no better than ordinary toothpaste.
Usually these coatings,at least at the open surfaces were hardened,otherwise one could'nt clean them , so toothpaste without abrasives and gently wieder could work.But from my experience haze is mostly on the inner lenses so taken apart would require an optical Bank for readjustment.
