Canon RF16mm f/2.8 STM Real-World Review 

At first I decided against it due to cost. I did get it, got it the day before vacationing at the (west) coast. Never took it off to switch to a different lens! Nice moody clouds after storms as well as great pics indoors. I love this lens.!!.

@@goldfern6 It's a great lens.

Great to hear!

You have great taste then! Thanks for the watch!

Thanks for the sub!

It’s a solid lens for sure.

It's a good one, for sure.

Thanks. I appreciate the love for the Matrix reference. Glad you like my style, since it's the only way I know who to be. lol.

For real. I thought I was going to have to dart for a pay phone, which are hard to find in 2024.

Amazing little lens. Am I right?

My pleasure!

If you zoom in to 200%, definitely. But stopped down it’s not that bad and yes, it was $200 and it fits in your pocket so it can go with you to any shoot.

That 10-22 is a nice lens.

The 10-22mm is a great option. Your understanding of the effect of crop on aperture values isn’t, however, accurate. The f-value doesn’t change on a crop sensor. The perceived depth of field does though for the cropped focal length. Perhaps think of it this way: if you have a photograph taken by a full frame camera with a f2.8 lens and you cut the photo in half, does the aperture value for each half become f5.6? Nope. Speedboosters, however, do have the effect depending on the value of the drops booster (eg 0.71 or 0.66) you are using. That is because they can concentrate the image circle so that it js smaller which intensifies the light for a given area of the sensor. Also, filter sizes doesn’t affect aperture values. Aperture is a ratio of the diameter of the maximum aperture divided by the focal length. It is a ratio. Finally, aperture values do not precisely equate with light transmission. There is usually some loss of light within a lens (light bouncing off the glass elements etc). The true transmission value is measured as a “t-stop” value. Cinema lenses use this convention. DXOmark is a good resource to get across this information which is pretty technical and had been cause for much banter in various photography fora.

Aren't EFs lenses in essence acting as a speed booster? They move the back element deeper into the camera flange to concentrate all the light on the APS-c sensor. If this is not the case then you would be able to use an EFs lens on a full frame if the the flange mated up correctly. It doesn't intentionally because the mirror on an SLR would hit the lens. So that's all I was really trying to say... all the light available is hitting the sensor with EFs is concentrated on the sensor.

@@RxMich Yes the rear element of EFS is generally closer to the sensor. There is also usually a protruding plastic ring protecting the rear element and preventing them from being mounted on full frame EF mount cameras. A hack (at your own risk) is to remove the plastic ring to enable mounting. Even then some EFS will not operate properly on EF mount full frame cameras because the rear lens element will be hit by the shutter potentially damaging the camera and or lens. However if they able to fit, then the image circle is smaller and won’t cover the sensor if a full frame camera (ie there will be an extreme vignette). But the f-stop within the visible image will still be that stated on the lens unless a speed booster is used. The same hack may allow EFS lenses to fit on speedboosters designed for EF lenses (eg. for M43 or EFM). This is when there is a change in light concentration. However, the rear element of EFS lenses can hit the glass in the speed booster. This occurs with some zooms I have tested at the wide end. Remember that EF lenses can be used on EFS cameras. So there is no zoom effect. Just a smaller imaging circle for EFS lenses which is designed for the smaller APSC crop sensor.

It gives you a perspective of 26mm on a crop. I would say that's pretty good for landscapes but probably getting too wide for environmental portraits and street. That's wide enough to where you start losing your subject. The 24mm 1.8 gives you a perspective of 37mm, which it me is ideal for street, environmental portraits, going to the beach etc. Not sure there's one prime lens that will give you exactly what you want, but the 24mm or the 28mm pancake may work better for you on a crop body.

thank you for watching!

Definitely agree. But it’s still a good value nonetheless.

Thank you for the watch!

That’s a great question. Unfortunately, I haven’t tried to use a bracket mount system. So I don’t know the answer to your question. Thank you for the kind words!

That’s a bummer

thanks for watching. I think you have to tell the lens inside your menus to not shoot in manual anymore. It doesn't have an AF-M switch on it. I can't remember which tab it's under, but it should be in the AF (purple) set of menus. Best of luck!

I love Grand Canyon pics 😊

I used both. Most of the outdoor shots were done on the R5. Most of the studio shots were done on the R7.

Thanks for the sub!

Yes sir!

Couldn’t help it.