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(A7SIII) Dude just film in SLog3 and convert to Rec709 with a Color Space Transform in Resolve simple and you get nice colors stop chasing the rabbit. You'll get nice colors. Don't make me have to make a video handholding you through the process. I will do it.. wait .. will not do it. yeah that's right!
To the guys that was considering S5 - just go for it. It's a great camera. But do not buy the kit lens. Take the body alone (preferably used, like 1 year old with remaining guarantee) and the Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 DG DN. Learn how to use these and you will be happy, I guarantee you.
@@salmanul_fares no it's not bad. I have it and the more expensive sigma 24-70 2.8. The sigma is better in PQ in everyway,, but the 20-60 I find to be a better focal length and the AF on its alot better than the sigma for video. Even though the sigma is much better PQ wise the 20-60 is my hiking lens I use because of the extra width I get for landscapes. If you can get the 20-60 for that cheap I would do it. You basically getting that lens for 300 dollars. Really worth it IMO.
@@salmanul_fares Not bad. Simply the Sigma is better. And if you save some money from the body (which you always have to do, because lenses are the more lasting ones), the price difference to upgrade is too small not to do it. That's just my logic though, other people may see it differently...
I used to S5 for videography gun and run style for 2 months, I love it, the autofocus is SLOOOOW but Goddamn when it catches, it catches it and hooks to it like a dragon claw. I also used the face detect a lot and all those videos on YT critiquing it? Imao, I never had it loose ONCE when it was on face detect even in God awful lighting conditions with ISO 6400 and F2.8 in VLOG. Fantastic camera, its not as fast as my old NX1, autofocus definitely not on par with the NX1 which is from 2014, but its a video beast and does great stills too. And its so easy to adjust it so you can set C1 to video mode and C2 to photo mode and it even remembers your shutter speed or shutter angle for video and photo mode its crazy how intuitive everything is.
My life is complete. Being called a d-bag by Kasey is like winning the lottery! Thank you Camera Conspiracies! (Seriously though, good recommend on pic profiles I’ll look into it thank you!)
Just found your channel a couple months ago and have been enjoying catching up on lots of your videos. As a Nikon shooter, it was disheartening that so many of your videos rarely mentioned Nikon, there are a few, most are massively complimentary save for the flippy screen...yes, we Nikon shooters want it to, apparently geometry is an issue for Nikon. That said, it dawned on me last night as I was trying to sleep, that for the success of your channel to continue, you could never be a Nikonian. You would have nothing to complain about anymore, let's be real, we're all here for the sick burns. In a Nikon system you would have everything you want, amazing color science, IBIS combined with lens stab, rock solid, so much toneh you could spread it on vegan toast, insane dynamic range, and hey, we're up to 29 Z lenses!! You may give up a little in frame rate with only 120 FPS in 1080, but damn it looks good. You assumed Nikon would be dead by now, there is a reason they aren't. Based on all this, I won't think less of you anymore for not using Nikon, you got a good schtick going here. Cheers!
12:12 Fuji WB was too cold, a quick adjustment would have made it nice. Aside of that, I also find the magenta shift when there's too much green in the frame, even if I set the white balance on white priority
Wrong profile for checking Fuji image. Not Eterna. Just use Classic Chrome or Astia, or Classic Neg for skin tones. Even Provia will give you better skin tones that Eterna.
I have a Canon C100 Mark II and love it! Its 1080p image quality is way better than my 90D, even in 4K. And yeah, the Sigma 18-35mm is definitely the best lens to pair with it. The center weighted autofocus works fine for talking head IMO. Also, please do a collaboration with Glenn from Spectre Sound Studios.
Used to do a lot of work with the C100 MK II. Amazing image and usability, and it holds up even today. And the files are absolutely *tiny*. Every time I see a used one for sale, I think about buying one (so cheap!). Maybe I should just do it 😆
a few weeks ago was thinking of moving to the Sony a7iv from my r6 because of the overheat, I wasn't sure of the 1.6 crop on 4k but now canon released an update for both the r5 and r6 and they basically removed the overheat from the r5 and increased the recording limit on the r6 so now I'm thinking of upgrading to the r5
they didn't remove the overheat, that's hardware related. they just changed the safeguarding software that shutdowns the camera more tolerant. Not sure what's the penalty?
@@vignesk6669 I would assume slightly less overall life-time for the body, as the electronics work nearer its tolerated operating limit. Good for Canon, as you’ll want that damn R1 in the near future after the R5 will burn your eyebrows so that you can finally successfully focus with your eyes, am I right?
I got my Sigma lens on my S5 rebate pretty easily. The out of the box colours on the S5 are pretty damn good. The reason I got it is after watching hundreds of videos I decided the S series had the most natural looking image and colours between the XT-4, BMP4K, A7S3 and R5. The S5 also records 6K if you have an external recorder. I think everyone is sleeping on Panasonic.
S5 is the best value, probably ever, I mean I got mine with the 20-60mm kit lens for 1800 euro + a rebate for 200 which makes the total setup just 1600 euros, thats mind bogglingly cheap! For a camera this good? Jesus, people are idiots, the autofocus is really good once you know how to deal with it, it has no pulsing when you set it right, its slow as f*ck but the camera at least has an autofocus button, press it before you shoot and then it catches and stays there.
@@renegade5475 And 13-14 stops of dynamic range too? For this price to me it just goes to show why companies stop making good products. Because no one buys them, they become too good.
You're buddy Ken(aka the angry photographer) would argue that the 80mm macro from Fuji is the best macro ever. I believe he says it's his favorite Fuji lens along with the 16mm T1.4. Another good free image editor is the free version of Capture One, although it doesn't include all of the features of the pay version. Have a great weekend!
@X D well, I’m not sure I would go so far as racist, but I do see your point. Still, I think that entire incident with the Panasonic Pony of Hope was taken way out of context 😊
In a different direction, your Sony video question is precisely why I hesitate to fully enter into the video world. Trying to understand the nerdy world of codex language can be mind numbing when listening to a reviewer explain all the different video options a camera has. Those moments make me want to scream, "I stopped playing Dungeons and Dragons when I graduated from college, please explain video jargon in language the non-nerd can understand!" So, I present a challenge to you our camera dungeon master. Create a video explaining what things like 4.2.2 and all that other video talk means so the loser photographer can understand. Just keep in mind, when loser photographers like me hear "4.2.2," we're more likely to think of R2D2 and C3PO - Keep It Simple Kasey. :)
In layman's terms all that it really means is the amount of compression each individual frame has. With less compression, you're able to manipulate the image more (such as with a raw photo file). With more compression, the image can still look fine but will fall apart sooner when adjusting the footage. There's probably way more to it but in a nutshell that's it. It really depends on how much storage you have, and how fast your PC is. With 'beefy' codecs, you can be looking at HUGE file sizes.
My personal favourite is slog3->Davinci color transform ->same as timeline(Rec709 Scene in settings) and then I just adjust the offset exposure before the transform node. Works better than the sony lut for me.
You don't have to do the transform with a node. You can set it at the Timeline level in your timeline settings. This way the program does the transform but it doesn't affect your ability to manipulate the image. You still get 32bit full usage of the image.
@@jessecumberledge4530 I did use it that way for a long time but there where a bunch of workflow and flexibility limitations that often made me switch back. Why do you say it doesn’t effect your ability. Isn’t it just the same as working before the transform on the node level?
@@jessecumberledge4530 colour space transform is not destructive, so it doesn't matter if you do it through the colour management in the menu or with a colour space transform.
The canon color science adds some kind of orange to the white or brighter tones. Thats probably why some people like it while sony leans more towards neutral.
Oh, man, that 90mm f/2.8 macro from Sony is SO GOOD. I use that thing all the time. The auto/manual collar is one of the best design decisions ever made for a macro lens. I ended up nabbing mine off eBay for $600 USD a couple years ago, and it's one of the best purchases I've ever made. What a great lens.
Just get the Canon R7 and the rf100-400mm. The least expensive, lightest weight, most powerful (160-640mm before a teleconverter) and best featured bird and wildlife combo with short minimum focusing distance and great close magnification out there bar none. Prove me wrong!
Man that Canon footage is quite better, like when old movies have trashy resolution but superior everything else. But for the usual audience it's more than enough for sure. Sony here looked kinda like that Jordan Drake hypothermia-at-his-desktop review with the purple eyebags and finger tips. Also that GH6 redline guy did get a return on his stuff but only after getting pretty angry in that video and his people dunking on the store and Pana representatives.
The Sony lens has more 3D pop than in the Canon or Fuji. It looks more cinematic with the Sony as well, and considering that the 6Dii is also full frame and over 20 mega pixels. The 6Dii should have had more 3D pop. But 3D pop I suspect is "relational"........... I switched years ago to Pentax for the 3D pop, and nothing except Leica $5000 lenses comes close to some of the Pentax Lenses with crappy auto focus for 3D pop......... But I suspected in the Pentax there is a relationship with the Image Processing Engine and the lens to create the 3D pop. I think there's a bunch of sciencey stuff going on there to get that 3D pop. Okay one mechanical thing that impedes 3D pop is AA filter and the level of blur that the AA filter produces will ruin 3D pop. This is because 3D pop is created by Chromatic Aberration, which in turn reduces sharpness slightly in a lens. So you have to start off with a super duper sharp lens, then mis-align slightly it to create the analogous 3D effect in a single lens. That creates the purple hue and purple fringing in high contrast areas. Now the White balance has to counter the purple hue and the engine also tries to mitigate the purple fringing if it can, but its software based and prone to failure........... Then your sensor has to be able to SEE 3D, within the interpolation of the Bayer array. There is also Bayer blur to contend with, but there is a relationship between a sensor and its interpolation of a scene and the 3D pop, and that 6Dii doesn't have it. Why do I say this. I've seen countless test shots between camera brands, and even with the exact same lens being used using an adapter, the Pentax image versus canon, Nikon and Fuji is always more 3D-poppy. I hate to say it, but I think its also in the interpolation. You need for 3D pop * A lens with CA's and plenty of sharpness and ambience created by a brilliant lens designer. * A camera with a weak or no AA filter. * A camera with and image engine that can render 3D effect. There is also the Sigma Foveon cameras that can do 3D effect easily because its a proper stacked sensor and theres zero interpolation and zero bayer blur. So they also have CA corrections in-camera, which could theoretically take away 3D effect of an image. So when camera reviewers say that a lens and camera is really great because its "CA's are well controlled", you can expect that the image has little 3D pop. The image engine is cleaning up the 3D pop.
future hobo RU-vidr here. I was looking for A camera for taking photos of reptiles and also doing RU-vid lives. First was interested in Sony zv-E10 or Canon M50 II because every youtuber said they were the best now after finding you leaning towards The Fuji S10. Need Sharp Photos with True Colors And Video for Lives with most accurate colors as the reptiles with out tons of editing. or something in those price ranges around 1k range for body.
Would you recommend any canon cameras if you don't care too much about slow mo? I've found the colors in your comparison videos I always prefer canon skin tones. Although I've found on my X-T4 a correct white balance and some edits can fix the magenta tints. Even with the correction the sony footage looks so bad, really wish it had better colors cause the AF and everything else seems so good.
I agree 💯👍 best photo is an unedited for reality and real image ,checking cmos senzors from different cameras until you"lol find Nikon z9, Sony alpha 1 or a Leica SL2
I have been shooting Fujifilm for 5 years now exclusively. I have never like the colours. They have always been something to work around or just accept. I don't edit my photos so what it spits out is what I get. I like Astia and Velvia with the saturation down a little, but everything has weird skin hues. And super muddy midtones. Canon is definitely nicer. Nikon is very natural. Sony looks a bit flat to me.
Tones are only half the problem, the hues are weird. There's no profile on Fujifilm to get fully accurate skin hues. Ironically, Velvia is closest but you need to desaturated it by the maximum allowed. Pro Neg H is pretty good, but it makes pinks purple so it gives an oxygen-starved blue lip look. Provia is too coral to compensate for the cyan-green shift. Everything else is stylised.
@@-grey yep, and then theres the waxy skin look too. I got more resolved detail from a micro four loser Olympus with good glass than the Fujis I had. The exception being the little XF10 with a Bayer sensor.
@@andrewbaxter9395 The waxy skin hasn't been a real issue since the second generation processor. Now, what annoys me is more the stylistic mid tone pull down and muddiness they use to compensate dynamic range and try to make the highlights look "silky" (spoiler: it doesn't). It almost always leads to clipped specular highlights on skin at accurate exposures. I really want a Ricoh GRIII, but they won't give me the flip-up screen to do waist-level shooting, and I need it because I'm tall.
Fix your compulsion to purchase a Canon C100 by visiting southern California and doing a video with Potato Jet (and give his channel a huge, much needed bump in viewers).
three shot comparison: Sony: zombie skin tones and pinkish red. Fuji and Canon--very similar skin tones and matching red---real red. Are Sony engineers doing color by the brail method?
The canon looked a bit weird. Yes the colors are ok, but the (and I say this the first time but mb bcs I usually watch your videos on mobile) looks too digitally sharpened. I bet you can turn the internal sharpening down but anyway that camera won't look much better probably. The Sony looked better, except that it was too soft, only your nose seemed on focus and it needs more sharpening (damn bpm filter as well). The Fuji looked the best in terms of sharpness but it should have been warmer. Maybe another film sim would be better as well.
GH6 has the best skin tones easily. One day you will use one and make the cinema yours... until then we will watch for the comedy not cinematic perfection.😁
colour science is such a non argument nowadays, you can literally tweak the PP on sonys to make them look exactly how you want them. contrastier, pinker, flatter, sharper, softer, shifting certain colours, etc.
You understand that every photograph is edited right? Either the camera's algorithm does it automatically or we can do it selectively. I spend a few minutes on each photo not a few hours.
The Nikon D700 has excellent colour science, but the Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro F Mount Digital DSLR Camera has the best skin tones of any digital camera ever made, hands down.
What is happening with that Fuji, I watched your previous video and then took my X-T3 to check if it is really that bad, and yes the Provia really has those red skin tones, however Astia is simply perfect with its gold skin tones. Also all the other profiles are good for skin, but the WB should be set precisely as setting the wB the same as Canon or Sony will not give good results.
Two things I learned from this video, Canon shouldn't be worried about the others and your prediction (or is that premonition?) about Sony and apps-c is spot on. It's the same when they said A-mount is not dead.
Tell me, have you ever heard of adjusting the hue on the white balance? You complain so much about excessive magenta or green in the picture or video that I genuinely wonder if you knew this is a thing? Also, no I don't mean setting the temperature, but rather setting the hue. It's adjustable at least on Sony but I'm sure on any camera. Dial down the magenta or green slider and you're done!
@@cameraconspiracies I find it helped on my Sony to get it near what my Panasonic used to deliver. I hated colours out of camera at first on the A7 III till I did this. I mean in theory it should be the same as adjusting the colour in post ,no? There is nothing inherent in the sensor that would embed a different colour tone in a Sony Vs a Nikon or a Canon or a Panasonic as they all use a Bayer filter. Maybe Fuji would be a bit different due to the X-Trans pixel arrangement. Maybe do a bit of extra tweaking and test it further. Would be an interesting video idea as well!
That's why I never use Eterna on like interviews etc. But it's great in other types of scenes. Each of these cameras has multiple color profiles, and not all of them is 'made' for natural skin tones.
