Very important information on these techniques, you wont want to miss this. link to Wetting test video and why its important. • Building Prototypes Da...
I suspect that the flash rusting around the tinned area is due to acidity in the flux rather than heat. This would apply whether using a liquid flux or a pre-mixed solder/flux product. think that it is desirable to neutralise areas that have been fluxed or lead loaded with a solution of sodium bicarbonate before thorough rinsing and drying before priming. Best wishes.
Hi Ben, as someone has said, we all love your videos and work, the longer the video, the better for me. But, thank you for this one anyway, really nice work. A few years ago, a professional restorer friend of mine put me on to Fertan rust converter. I don't know if you've tried it, it's not that easy to get hold of, but it seems to be different from all the others in how it looks and smells, and it is superb for both converting and applying to stop further rusting. It doesn't contain any latex binder and converts any rust pits to black, some of these you just can't see with the naked eye, and any good steel is left with a phosphate coating which Fertan say is good for six months, although I tend to get it epoxy covered as soon as possible.
Hi and thanks for the comment, I haven't heard of or tried Fertan rust converter. I would have to do some tests on it. So far the rust converters I've used don't work but maybe this one is different, it's easy to get hold of by the looks of it, in the uk anyway. 👍
@@bensclassicbodywork Hi Ben, where I live (Huddersfield) the only place I found that could supply it needed me to buy a case of it. I still have over half a bottle left, it goes a long way. I will drop you an e-mail, if you want to give it a try I'll post you a sample, see what you think.
@@bobfrankish8883 That's very kind of you Bob, appreciate the offer. However being completely honest I don't think rust converters are for me even if it did work. I prefer to see with my eyes that the rust is gone, a converter you would have to blindly trust it's done it's job. Having had to sort rust under new paintwork the expensive way a number of times in the past you get risk adverse and stick to what you know works.
@@bensclassicbodywork I fully understand your reasoning Ben. There are times though, when the Fertan is not a bad option, or is definitely better than doing nothing. I sort of fancy it for applying to spot welded seams that we all know will be rusty on the inside, but it is just not practical to split them open. The product is very thin and would be sucked into the gap by capillary action, I always figured I would do some experiments but never did. If I ever do I'll let you know the results! Most tests you see done on rust converters prove they are a waste of time and money, but I think people expect too much. They apply them to heavily rusted steel without trying to get as much rust off as possible, then leave them outside for ages and find that they fail! I am convinced that the "conversion" is only a few molecules deep, so if they are applied to rust with any thickness to it, there will be fresh rust underneath the black chemical that is left. One of the main differences with Fertan versus the others is the length of time they recommend leaving it to work, i.e. at least 24 hours, preferably longer, keeping it wet for as long as possible by spraying it with a fine mist of water. I think the others may dry long before they can penetrate.
I think media blasting is great but only if you can prime it almost immediately. By blasting it but then leaving a raw surface surely you are effectively creating a fresh problem for yourself unnecessarily?
I would definitely advise leaving blasted steel with caution. It is the only pratical way I believe to ensure you have got all the rust out on a complete car. Other than dipping the car but there are problems with that method so wouldn't advise it. It is best to paint soon after blasting so I would advise this but not after the first attempt, 2nd, 3rd or 4th attempt yes.
Thanks for the feedback 👍, I'm worried that longer videos would get boring and people wouldn't watch it. Or perhaps not even click on a longer video. I know sometimes if I haven't got much time I choose a shorter video to watch rather than a longer one. What I try and do is cram as much Information into the length of the video as I can. I could increase the length of the video but the amount of info would be similar. Unless I made videos less often, say one every 2-3months Instead of every 6 weeks or so. I suppose it comes down to the reason people watch them. Is it for quick information or do they watch for leisure? Perhaps the only way to find out is to try and see what happens. Yourkshire car restoration makes long vidoes, they are very popular, I find them boring but that's probably because I do this stuff all the time.
@@bensclassicbodywork Hello again. Ultimately, it's a lot of work to create a video like this! Preparation, filming, doing the work itself, and uploading - that takes a lot of time!!! My comment wasn't intended to be a criticism, but rather a point out that I personally just can't get enough of your (especially Alfa) videos! 😉 They are very informative, exciting and relaxing at the same time! For me it is very interesting to see what craft skills others have and what I can use from them for myself and my hobby. I don't know if I've already told you what I do for a living, I'm a male psychiatric nurse, and whenever I see a new one of your videos, I immediately feel better!🙃 So please keep doing what you're doing! --- No matter whether short or long! ( Most is from the googletranslater, hope you understand, what I will say!? )
Thanks for this, I was flattered by your comment. It's a real compliment for someone to ask for longer vidoes. I'm glad it provides some sort of escape from your no doubt stressful and difficult job, respect to you for doing such a job. 👍
@@bensclassicbodyworkdude I’d easily watch a 20-30 minute video if that’s what you put out. You make great, enjoyable content and I look forward to each release.
