As a old guy watching power tools make a repair a lot easier,in my days it was wrenching and when ratchets and sockets appeared it was a big good thing, battery operated tools zip off parts so easy, anyway great watching you Ray ; you do make things look easy , knowledge and liking what you do is key .😊
My uncle once brought his car to my brother, a master mechanic, with air conditioning issues. After looking at it, my brother told him the job would be a complete system replacement because the compressor had shed many metal fragments from the inside when it gave up. My uncle was unhappy with the estimate and took his car to another shop for a second opinion. The other shop said compressor replacement and recharge system only. Of course, that price was much more appealing, so he had the other shop do the job. Not even a week later, the brand-new compressor seized up and quit too, because it was full of the metal shavings from the previous compressor. Oopsy! And for some reason, my uncle was angry with my brother. Moral of the story? When a family member and a master mechanic tells you what the job is, believe them.
True as can be IF the compressor itself fails. In this vans case though, it only looked like the clutch failed, which means you don't have to replace everything. Ray really should have taken off the old clutch after removing the compressor and checked that the compressor piston hadn't locked/blown up before just dropping in the new one. On older cars (like 1980's) you could just use a pressured chemical mix to flush out the system to get all the metal shavings out, but nowadays the ac condenser units have such narrow passages that it may not work to get it all out, plus you still had to replace all the little filters and evaporators.
If I were your brother, I would never give car advice to that uncle ever again. "Go take it to that shop that did such a good job with your A/C compressor!" 🤣
@@LiveFreeOrDieDH My uncle is no longer with us. From the day of that event until he died, my uncle never took his car to my brother again. Sadly, some people are incapable of admitting they are wrong.
My days as a Pepsi service tech working on fountain units I learned the hard way using pocket screwdriver taking the small o rings off. Bought a dental pick to use on the orings. Saved my finger tips.
It is amazing that any repairs can be accomplished when you can't see what you are working on and have to contort yourself to reach endless fasteners, sensors, etc. Not only does this work require experience, skill, and integrity, patience is a clear asset as well. Nicely done.
Just watching you find all the connections and parts that have to be removed before you can access the actual defective part convinces me why these repairs are so expensive.
Ray. Thanks for not only being an honest mechanic (most probably are when allowed) but also teaching us how to properly do things. You sir, are awesome. Semper Fi.
Dealership don't troubleshoot what parts is actually needs to be replaced, they just replace everything. That is why I don't like to take my vehicle to the dealership. The free changes are only to get you in for be able to up sell you for additional service. I just bought a new Toyota Corolla and I will not be taking it for the free oil changes, because I am not going to do the 10,000 mile intervals for the oil changes. So I have to special order the 0w-8 oil for it, so I can have it changed at 5,000 miles.
My brother bought a new corolla, he got the toyocare service program…..they want to change the oil at 10,000… he changes at 5000. So he pays 120.00 for the extra oil change at the dealer, why i have no idea. They claim it would void warranty…………but i call shenanigans on that…
Funny thing about those "free" oil changes with Toyota cars is that you paid about $2000 for a lifetime maintenance contract. Had you had no intention of using it, you should have had them cancel the contract and save you some money.
All my Fords have 10k mile oil changes. At 10k. They get 5W20 synthetic blend & Motorcraft filter. Both of my 2014s have 200k trouble free miles. None have any engine issues, or sludge. When a manufacturer & oil company say their engine is safe for 10k mile oil changes, they mean it. Changing it early is not a flex. Just means you like to flush money away.
Hi Rainman, yea, 2 months ago I put a $120 fuel pump in a daughter’s 2001 Tahoe. She called the next day. No joy. I went to her site, banged on the tank and vroooom. I removed the $120 pump and installed a $300 pump. No problems since. Secondly, 3 weeks ago I replaced coils and an ignition control module in another daughter’s car, Saturn Ion. Brand name parts. It ran worse than prior to the new parts. After research I went to a junk yard and found an oem icm. On the back side it said Made In USA. Yup, that worked. This is nuts. Dave in Omaha
Haha I went through that with a blazer many years back! Saved $100 and had to do the job 3 times because the AutoZone pump failed twice. Learned the hard way
I have the same “problem”. Almost every time I watch I see another tool or set that I just GOTTA HAVE. And I can’t even do this kind of work anymore due to spinal damage.
Mechanic and retirement job at NAPA. We moved alot of parts (300k a month) mostly wholesale. Not a big rebuilt person. For ac compressors,alternators, and starters, I only buy new. Some shops return parts as new but try to bs us with used parts in the box hoping we won't check . We check everything returned now.
Just went through this on my daughter's car. 2 "rebuilt" NAPA compressors after the stock unit locked up and broke the belt. Finally spent the money on a brand new unit. Evaced everything and replaced valves just to be on the safe side.
2 месяца назад
I've had NAPA compressor clutch crack and fall off so I don't buy anything from NAPA, JUNK.
NAPA buys the same junk as Autozone, Advance, Oreilly, etc. They're all aftermarket and rebuilt part providers. No one should be surprised this stuff is junk.
NAPA sells 3 grades of compressors based on your budget and how long you plan on keeping your vehicle. "Rebuilt" like you bought is the least expensive because the rebuilder just replaced the components of a failed compressor and that's it so it has a 1 year warranty The next level up is "Remanufactured", these are compressors that have had a complete replacement of all of the internals, electronics and clutch assembly replaced and comes with a 3 year warranty. New is also available and comes with a lifetime warranty. I have learned long ago the difference in price for a "rebuilt" isn't worth it when for a little bit more you can buy a "remanufactured" and have not had any issues. So to say NAPA parts are junk is not accurate in my opinion is inaccurate. We use NAPA almost exclusively and the reason for that is we very rarely have comebacks due to faulty parts, unlike Ray we don't Love our job so much we "don't" like doing it twice.
really sucks Ray. I'm a long way from a mechanic, but I've had more than my share of defective "new" parts. Fuel pumps, altenators and even bent struts out of the box. Of course I didn't realize they were bent until after I installed 'em.
Retired mechanic here from 🇭🇲 love watching your segments, cars are way different as are your workings tool and well everything, I find it really interesting.
As someone who has never owned a car that has even had a ODB connector I find it interesting to see how much it influences the work on cars. It's also sort of jarring to hear things such as a carburetor being hard to adjust or that using a stroboscope light to adjust the timing. These are things I learned to do as a kid. They were natural to me and things like fuel injection and electronic ignition timing is strange and hard to work with. To me even electric fuel pumps feels weird. The cars I used to work with had mechanical fuel pumps. There were nothing electric to them. But to be honest I have seen some things that tells me that the reliability has actually increased compared to cars of say thirty years past. Back then there were a lot more common to see someone at the shoulder of the road with a car that just gave up on them. ON a longer drive you would almost always see a few stuck at the side of the road waiting for help. Another things is looking at parking lots. thirty or forty years back there were always patches of oil slicks at a parking lot. Cars leaked oil. If it didn't leak then it was out of oil. This has changed a lot. Both the dimension precision in manufacturing and the materials used has improved a lot. There's nothing to argue about that. But we've also bought a new set of problems with the technical improvements. Modern electronics is pretty rugged if designed to be so. And yet we have systems that are so complex and rely on so many sensors that it getts hard to make sense of what is happening at times. And if the sensors and all wires are working there is the software that can do strange things. It's not very common but it's also way beyond what any technician can be supposed to solve without just replacing the controller. Yes I'm mystifying the computer systems in modern cars, but they are largely black boxes with little to no real access to the software in them. And as a computer tech that makes them feel dangerous to me. Old cars were really simple. Everything was so simple to understand. It was mechanical links and normal electrical switches.
Yes. In the Olden Days we would have replaced just the clutch. The compressor itself is probably ok. We also would rebuild alternators, generators, starters, steering gears, master cylinders, etc. rather than change out complete assemblies. But, hey! That was then, this is now. The parts for rebuilding these assemblies probably can't be obtained by the independent mechanic these days.
Also, "Dorman" parts are NOT known for STELLAR quality! I would have opted for a GENUINE Toyota "certified" replacement. There is TOO MUCH labor involved to take a chance on "generic" parts quality.
A friend of mine used to have her oil changes done at a local dealer. Every time she did, they presented her with a list of things that needed her attention (and money), usually costing somewhere in the 500-600 dollar range. Each time, the list was different, and when she had me check out their suggestions, most of them were very minor cures - gasket, seal, new hose, etc. Once they told her the rear brakes had to be replaced - pads, calipers, rotors, of course. Funny thing - I had replaced the pads and rotors just a few weeks earlier, and the calipers had no signs of distress - no leaks, no binding, okay to continue. They simply thought that because of its mileage it must be ready for brakes - they never looked at them. Deailers maintenance writers are prone to do that, and sadly, mostly to women, who they think are not knowledgeable enough to question them.
@@shadetreemech290 It's not a "women" thing, it's an uneducated vehicle owner thing. Though the prevalence of male salespeople taking advantage of female buyers lends some power to your comment.
How to you expect to pay all the dead weight on two legs,the taxes,the insurance, the inventory of parts, and service equipment,the office staff,and the vehicle inventory loans from the bank if YOU DON'T screw so many people over every single day? How many of you don't know what the nut is for even a small dealership? It's ridiculous,believe me- I did the books Damned few vehicle repair shops are honest,because you will bankrupt your self trying What do you think that scanner from Snap ON cost? ALL scanners and all service data has to be paid for every year.THOUSANDS of Dollars Think HARD before you think about opening your own shop,you are going to work WAY more than 40 hours with vacations and benefits paid by you
@@RainmanRaysRepairs while it sounds impossible....most of the parts today are made in the " aether " they do NOT come out of a Factory ...... that is reality .... Can you except the truth ? probably not......but it is the Truth...... Jay Fox
@@RainmanRaysRepairs junk yard parts are often times more $$ that after market or even new . sometimes though you need unobtanium and the yard and the $ have to happen
I had a 14 Sienna that the compressor died on, and I was quoted 3k for the repair. It was essentially the same issue as the one you've got, except not as bad, it happened at 160k miles. The compressor alone was 700 dollars, although I spring for the Denso. The real issue with A/C work is that most people can DiY stuff but trying to evacuate, vacuum, change parts, and recharge is outside of most peoples ability just from an equipment standpoint. I was lucky and knew a guy that had a machine which meant I was just on the hook for the compressor and refrigerant, and it still cost me about 1k. I can remember changing the compressor on my first car way back when and it was only a couple hundred dollars for compressor and parts as well as refrigerant. The average American is rapidly being engineered and priced out of repairing things for themselves. I also found it easier to remove passenger tire and splash guard. Was way easier than trying to do it from the top.
Lucky Honda made me paid $980 for the compressor only all total cost $1800 in Honda Civic EX 2002 with 14k yeah dead A/C compressor at 14k . and I have to go 4 times at Honda couldn't find the A/C leak I have to tell them their job they have all tools I did found the leak on the top Aluminium pipe and they lost my red battery cap on the two Honda cars I wonder if they replaced all bolts in the process seem missing bolts each time you go to the dealer something obviously will be missing after a job in your engine I hate dealer I always will they are so fake. got to find an independent Honda Mechanic from now. I bought a new Subaru i'm nervous to bring it for repair later on at the Subaru dealer I don't trust them.
System self-evacuates when you disconnect a line. Vac pumps are cheap, as are a set of manifold guages. Anyone motivated enough will get it done, except for the evaporator. Either it leaks slow enough you charge it once a year or so, or it just doesn't get fixed at all. 99% of people aren't pulling the dash, or paying to have it done.
@@GrandPrix46 True enough about the self-evacuation...though arguably that's already a _leak,_ so there's that...also, most people aren't gonna do that because the refrigerant is petty nasty/toxic to breathe _and_ it's illegal on the federal level (here in the US, anyway, not sure about other countries) to intentionally evacuate it into the air instead of a recovery tank, so there's an element of "I may be crazy enough to fight the Batman, but the IRS?! Nooooo, thank you!" to it, too.
The issue is that if just the clutch fails, you only really need to replace the compressor (or just the clutch), but if the compressor fails, it shreds bits of metal throughout the system and if you don't replace the condenser, all the other little filters and evaporator and flush all the lines before putting all those new parts in, your new compressor will fail within a year, usually within a month, because the metal shavings will tear up the new one.
We just got the tail end of Ernesto up here in Newfoundland Canada. We didn’t get much wind, but it brought some heavy rain and humidity. I was painting a room yesterday and had to turn on a dehumidifier to get it to dry. It was 94%. Gross. Glad you guys are getting a heat break.
Good to see another Newfie following Ray. How's life on the rock these days? Sorry that you're suffering with the humidity. Wasn't much better over here in Toronto until yesterday. We're currently at 55%
@@proudcanadian5713 hey brother. The rock is pretty much same old, same old. Humidity is down today for the most part. Yeah, you guys had your own issues with the floods and tornadoes in the last little bit too. Glad it’s subsiding.
How frustrating! Nothing like having to do a job twice, especially when it had nothing to do with your work. Two hours of your life you can’t get back! Your attitude is great though Ray. You’re an inspiration. If it were me there would be so many bad words spewed the video would not be able to be shown. Keep up the good work and patience!
Worse, its 2 hours of shop time that is basically "Time Theft" due to faulty parts supplied. (Pretty sure if this happened to a LAWYER(Faulty Paperwork) he/she would bill someone for it anyways? Hmmm can you BILL the parts supplier for 'Shop time' when its due to faulty parts? Theres a thought?)
@@Streamer687 Some parts stores give an extra discount for factory failed so as not to lose the regular customer - one account was closed when two gas tanks in a row leaked & almost another after a rebuilt head failed till 20% was discounted on the second head
@@Streamer687no need to be so melodramatic. All Ray has to do is call the manager of his parts supplier & get a discount arranged for the replacement part or submit his labor claim.
Again you have proven that even Master Technicians can be defeated by either faulty parts or gremlins in the system. It is no reflection of you diagnostic or skill set...sometimes poop happens that is out of our control. I am sure it is very humbling for you to post these types of videos, but that is what makes you a step above the rest. You could have just uploaded a perfect repair and none of us viewers would have noticed. Instead you uploaded a repair video gone wrong. That is what makes me, for one, and I feel you viewers, respect you and your honesty. Keep on rocking Ray!!! All of us have one of those days!!!
I forgot about the title, and once you plugged the new compressor up and located the thermo fans I'm thinking "wouldn't it make sense to charge it and verify that compressor is working correctly before you button everything up?" And then after you button everything up, charge it, and jump back in the cab it's "uh-oh" Remember Ray, "just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good" I learned that little gem from you 😂
I love it when you show the original damaged part failure. It’s the “thars your problem”. I had a Dodge/Chrysler mini van I let my niece/nephew in law drive. It developed a “belt whine”. Nephew in law sprayed “belt grip” when I wasn’t around. Whine remained, but reduced. Then the one winter night in AK, crossing an area with spotty cell service it threw the belt. Towed it to me. I pulled/cut the belt, water pump was toast. New belt, new WP, new coolant. Fire it up. Went for test drive, WP working held temp but still a whine. It was an idler.
After seeing all the death-struggle procedures to get to the AC compressors on your channel, I was pleased to find there are access holes through the structure to unbolt the compressor on my Tacoma.
Kudos for taking good care of your customer, Ray... especially while working in that heat. I don't think I could handle working in those temps all day!!
Agreed - new parts stink. I remember changing only the clutch when the compressor was still good. Saved sucking and recharging as well as the cost of a complete compressor. That was when the compressor was on top of the engine. Thanks.
The 1980's seemed when dealerships started phasing out the top mechanics, but today's world is just crazy, I had some body work done at the dealership and I knew more then they did on the parts and how to find schematics what was needed.
Dealers have always had problems keeping good trained mechanics. They always seemed to leave and start their own garages to make a lot more money and have independence over their work. I guess that's pretty much what drove Ray to have his own place.
@@cup_and_cone The owners will be doing the repair again in a year or so....my older lex had one of these black chinesium compressors. leaked from main seal and around high/low pressure plate. So got it a Denso OEM!!
Yes, Ray, everything we buy anymore is pretty much junk. I used to get years out of incandescent bulbs in my cars and home, and now I am lucky to get more than a week or two. I do believe it's all intentional.
Its always best practice to prove refrigerant condition using a refrigerant diagnostic sight glass in instances like this. The previous shop quoted for an entire system replacement possibly due to contamination of refrigerant due to compressor failure. The reaaon your getting an error code is most likely swarf has entered the vdc solenoid which uses a pwm signal to control the swashplate. If you were to open the failed compressor and observe grey aluminium paste mixed with oil this would prove this failure. You can also use a picoscope to determine if solenoid itself is just at fault which can be replaced alone without compressor change. Also always measure oil quantity in compressor matches specified volume before compressor installation.
Lots of folks on here warn about using aftermarket parts (especially Chinese) in Toyotas, in particular O2 sensors and cat converters. So, we can add AC compressors to the list. So, you waste 3.4 hours on the job that you can't ethically charge the customer for. Does the parts supplier reimburse you for the lost time? I really doubt that they do.
That compressor is still in better shape than the one that I pulled from our 02 Grand Caravan 😂 It had started making noise, and I discovered it had lost a third of it's bearings! That was a miserable job after returning from a long weekend camping trip with no AC!
@@ericspecullaas2841 No thanks, you can keep that dubious honour. I don't need 40C temperatures and up to know it sucks. Felt that in the interior of BC for 2 weeks, that was plenty.
Working on equipment related to oilfield operations we constantly changed orings to the tune of ordering quantities of 1000 at a time of various sizes. We were required to use brass removal tools. The orings were mounted on stainless steel. The thought was if you looked at the groove under a microscope you could see scratches. Take it we were dealing with up to 30,000 psi.
Nice to hear and see a non electron ratchet being used to together with with the rymthnic thump of knuckles on hard surface in restricted spaces.... memories 😂
Always enjoy seeing you being a good person & saving people from people who use what is wrong & Use itas a way to cash in!!! You sir are a good person & should sleep well at night because of that !!!!
Way back in 1986, I was home on leave in NC from the Navy. I had a '79 Ford Mustang I'd bought brand new. It didn't have cruise control on it from the factory, so I took it to an area Sears Automotive to have an aftermarket cruise control put on it. This was in the latter part of October, when it was already past A/C season in NC and where I was stationed. The cruise control actually worked quite well. But come the next summer, for some reason, my A/C wouldn't turn on. As in, the compressor wouldn't do anything. Plenty of freon in the system, but no voltage to the compressor clutch when I turned it on. Long story short, I ended up getting the wiring diagrams at the base library, did some looking under the dash, and found out that the Sears mechanic that had installed the cruise control, instead of splicing into the wire, had completely cut the power wire to the compressor clutch, and connected it to the cruise control instead.
Yep, "Stealerships" is what they are. Told me when I brought my jeep in for warranty work that I had maintenance due and it was going to coast $1000 roughly. I did it all myself buying parts and even tools and got it done in about 1.5 hours and $140 bucks.
The A/C Compressor started leaking PAG oil/refrigerant (but still working good - not for long) in my 2016 KИ Forte. The dealership replaced it with a "new" Compressor for free - a rebuilt unit from South Korea. That was 3 years ago; the rebuilt Compressor is still working flawlessly. 🙂👍🤞
Ray if you just install an oem Denso compressor you may be one step ahead ,that thermal expansion valve may be clogged like you said. (Ray have a better day tomorrow)
I was wondering if the clutch busted because the compressor piston locked up and shredded itself. He should have checked the old compressor to see, because that would mean several other parts would need to be replaced after flushing all the lines out to remove metal bits. IMO, Ray was slacking.
Just had the exact same problem with a Suburban the other day. Both pressures were too high after a fairly recent compressor replacement, but the charge weight was spot on. Customer declined repair, so I can't give a confirmed kill on that, Since everything looked great on data, and all the voltages I could reach with it running looked good, I concluded it was an internal compressor problem. May never know, but, yeah, parts seem to be getting worse.
You would think the owner might come to the realization that "free" oil changes are very expensive. My new 2016 Highlander came with "free" service, I opted to get oil changes elsewhere at 5,000 mile intervals vs. Toyota's recommended 10,000 miles. After retirement, I now do them myself.
I went to Toyota dealership wanted an oil change between their free oil changes at 10k oil changes and said I was wasting my money. I said change the oil anyway
Oh for the days that you could replace the clutch pak on the compressor . Well as they have modularize equipment , it is probably cheaper to replace the whole unit now. Stay safe, have fun .
Yup. New compressor is more better. I replaced mine with a brand new AC Delco ( only 100.00 more) it's lasted 5 years and still works like new. A little noisy but only at start up. A rebuilt would have only lasted at best 2 years. Good work Ray. I still suggest a piece of cardboard over the radiator though
As soon as you extracted the old compressor and I saw the green label and black paint I knew it was a rebuilt replacement. When I saw the new one in your hand, also painted black with the green label, I shook my head. I learned my lesson years ago, NO REBUILT COMPRESSORS! I try to get Denso when I can, even though they seem to be scarce these days. Even the China clones are better than rebuilt.
I have also had bad experiences with rebuilt compressors. I also stick with Denso compressors. Denson is what the original manufacturer uses on their vehicles. I have GM vehicles and Denso is who makes their compressors. I had to replace my compressor a year ago on my 2004 Suburban and wanted a NEW Original GM Part and it was a Acdelco part made by Denso but really expensive since it had the Acdelco label on it. So I just bought the Original Denso part without Acdelco label on it where it was more affordable and does the same job with the same liability of an oem part because it is an oem part just labeled different from the actual company who makes it. To today, it works flawlessly. I live in AZ where we use our A/C almost all the time.
Yes Denso is in the Toyota group of companies on paper they own 25% of Denso. Denso is always the first choice but if customer has a budget UAC makes great brand new compressors
I had to pay for a new radiator because the tech smashed the plastic when removing the fan on my 528i... oh but it was "leaking" strange because it never leaked on me, it needed the thermostat replaced. never went back to that shop!, sadly they specialized on Eur cars... but NOT MINE!!!
Had problems with flow sensors on 2 aftermarket compressors last month. Put a magnet on the sensors and they "woke up". Pulled the junk compressors and replace with Toyota oem units.
Great video as ways Raymond Things happen We tend to get crappy parts 98 percent more then good parts I'm sure you will get it fixed 42:00 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Times I've seen the pressures act like that was because the orifice tube or expansion valve were plugged with debris. The shop I worked at (recently retired), we would only use NEW compressors, or none at all. Had WAY too many problems with "rebuilt" compressors.
94 is cool in the shop here in FL!! I've had some ridiculous ones lately, compressor and condenser quoted due to a failed compressor & it turned out to be a bad relay. Pretty sure other shop didn't want to work on it.
Put a new OEM valve cover on a 2013 Focus. Cover came with new gaskets already installed. Started leaking a week later. Upon removal the perimeter gasket fell out. One corner had a weird s shaped place that it shouldn't have. Had to buy another gasket set to get the correct one.
We have been replacing many electronic parts on our 96 Jeep ZJ trying to use trouble codes for guidance. However, about half of the new parts have been bad, requiring purchasing twice, or more. Jeep doesn't have any OEM parts for our 96.
Rainman Ray is one of the God's of real working auto-mechanics. He has " stayed the course " and hopefully now earns a decent remittance for his videos. This, my old-friends , is the new media and the creme rises to the top. Ray's dedication to his trade has always shown thru and - if nothing else - he has as many customers as he wants in his shop. you know, when the customer has the video - they KNOW exactly what was done. In this case the mechanic has to charge for re-doing the work. It is not his fault the part was faulty and he did the right thing by making the final cheks. depending on the customer, you might split the extra work half-and-half. but really, the mechanic did the work and unless he can correctly test the new part before-hand, this is the work.
Great to see this fix, sorry it didn't work. I just got a code P0012 and it went away, (its being looked at) so maybee a little more about that vvt. I have a 2015 awd sienna. Yes that valve is from dorman $30. Thanks for the video. I sent the radio out for repair as i got the screen of death (toyta with the symbol). I sent it out to United Tadio in syracuse, NY. they gave me a preliminary quote, then the bench quote $450. It is a tricky repair but they do manufacturer repair. Had to give them the exact part number but it worked out. Kept the sirius box home until it came back. Came with a one year warranty and cheaper then installing a new radio. Love the CD player
I just had a similar problem with a 2013 Mazda 3. They replaced the Compressor, serviced the system and it worked GREAT -- for 2.5 weeks. Then as I was driving home on the highway, the vehicle had a shudder in the steering wheel and the A/C stopped blowing cold air. When I turned A/C off, the shudder disappeared. Took it back to my guys and yep they had to put another compressor in it. I felt sorry for them because it's not THEIR fault. What the heck has happened to Quality Control in manufacturing nowadays?
I live in Australia, and I had the AC compressor replaced in my 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5 last year; the total was $1406.45 Aussie dollars ($946.70 US dollars)
Went to get a temp sensor a couple weeks back. They handed me the $100 part, I opened the new box on a bad part. This was a part sent from the "warehouse" that was a returned item. Nobody looked at the return part. The part was oily and well used. The counter 0erson still tried to send it with me.
I was in parts for 25 years or so. One day I discovered I could mute the phone and still listen to the people on the line. They got to talking about scamming a jobber of ours by keeping a new cam shaft and returning the old one. I prompting called our jobbers and explained the situation. They were very pleased, the jobber, to have that information. It didn't end well for the customer.
Well that's kinda a drag. Great work, everything back together and presto a problem with the new compressor. Well you can't beat them all. Faulty parts will get you sometimes.
Speaking of crappy parts. I replaced an O2 sensor on a 1998 Fiat Brava. The car ran great for a few months and then the misfires started drinking petrol. Check all the usual suspects no error codes. It turned out the non oem O2 sensor went bad, a oem Bosch from the scrapyard and all the problems disappeared straight way. Lesson learned
