I could watch trailer modification videos on a never ending loop. Nothing like having a great trailer setup & I love seeing other people’s ideas & execution. Great job on this one, I really liked the lighting setup!
Like some others have mentioned, using spindles to mount the spares gives you a little backup if ever needed. You might think about getting some spare tire covers to help the spare last a little longer by blocking the UV. I think I'd have either stained or varnished the decking too just to help keep it looking good, plus it'd be easier to clean up if you get grease or oil on it. Great video, thanks for showing how to get things done for a great price, now if I only had a shop full of killer tools like you have.
Great job on this one-of-a-kind trailer build! As you broke down the $3,000 savings to build it yourself vs. bying a new one loaded out I couldn't help noticing one thing missing in the calculation... you would probably sell the existing trailer for at least $3k if you bought a new one. That said, this trailer turned out better than a new one and it's the only one just like it. It was still worth it!
A few things I think you should add:: Gussets to the spare tire mounts. Vibrations can crack welds over time. LED lights inside of the fenders, toward the outer lip. If you've ever lost a bearing on the road at night, well, you know exactly why I'd add them. Last, I'd hang the license plate sideways on the drivers side fender, rather than have it getting trashed on trails and such. Mine is where yours is, but my frame sits higher for the light. It would have been great to end the video with the trailer hooked to your truck with something on the trailer at night, showing the deck lighting and how useful it really is....
You are beyond belief amazing even though you put everything on a video I don't believe I can follow all that video introduce such an amazing job as you have you're amazing you're amazing now the lights in the middle of the floor you know it got to love it
Great video, my trailer rebuild started as a deck replacement and ended up like yours short of new axles. I think the most important thing I did was add reverse light under the brake lights. I also added, like I see on yours, a metal trim, 1/4 angle, around the lights to protect them from damage by "friend using the trailer".
The heavier axles are great, but if the frame was rated for 7k, you still have a 7k trailer. Yes, you can overload it, and on smooth roads you could get away with more weight. But, if you load it heavy and hit a washboard and get it hopping, the frame might not like it.
He could have ran a support down the middle of the trailer from the tongue to the rear of the trailer, it helps ten fold, mine works really nice with two pieces of 2" pipe running front to back
Just a little picky but 2 3500 pound axles cannot haul 7000 pounds, you can only haul 7000 less the weight of the trailer. Likewise 2 5000 pound axles can only haul 10,000 less the weight of the trailer. Thanks for your video! Gave me the push to rebuild my trailer.
For the wire connection check out these new things I found. They are heatshrink with solder all built in one. No crimping needed and just need a heat gun. I used them rewiring my trailer. Up here in Ohio I see lots of snow and rain. Those seal out the weather and give a great connection. Thank you for the great content please keep on sharing.
As a Trailer parts supplier I have helped thousands for people do what you are doing, One thing i see all the time is a hub failing because of lack of maintenance , one thing I did on my trailer for the spare tire is use a spindle and an idler hub for the spear tire mount, therefore I have a ready to go hub in case I have a bearing fail on the road and i catch it before it destroys its self. You put your springs on backwards, the strap that goes around the spring needs to be pointed to the front because under breaking that strap holds the spring pack together the way you have them it will shorten the life of the spring and break over time. Why not go with 6k Axles same fitment and if you ever wanted to upgrade the tires the hardware would be ready. Why not rewire to industry standards? That spare is most likely bad because of time in the sun look at its color it is grey that means that tire does not have the elasticity is needs I Have seen many spare tires on trailers separate just because they were on the carrier in the sun and never ever run.
I seen the same thing on the springs. And the shackles were over center but I’m sure that was corrected when it was set down judging by the wheel to fender clearance. But I agree with changing the wiring how Ian did. If you ever have to replace your 7 pin plug and wire it by the colors on the new plug it won’t match whatever that RV standard is. I’ve noticed all RV wiring is like what came with that junction box and it defies all my trailer logic. Wish they would all just pick a lane and stick to it.
After 20 years of working on over the road trailers with the 7 round pin ATA plug, and G'ds color code; I took a part time job at an "Auto and truck shop"... A car trailer came in needing new tailights... It was wired in the "RV" "standard... The Satanic wiring drove me insane...
I have seen People do stupid stuff to wires. In my time of services. One guy even went as far a hooking his brake wire to a reverse wire so if something tried stealing his trailer. The moment he reversed it would lock the brakes up 😂
I’m working on one now to haul quads. It was a old boat trailer, thanks for the video and ideas. Like the idea of lights on the deck! That’s going to to be helpful.
Super cool Ian...keep the awesome videos rolling man! I might have been inclined to run some plastic loom on the wiring going through the drilled holes on the frame...I hate wiring issues too. LOL
I see someone else said many people don’t paint the cross pieces under the wood but why when you had the trailer apart didn’t you take a couple extra hours to apply a rust converter to all metal surfaces & paint them? That would have truely been a rebuilt trailer that would look like it is new! Other than not giving it a coat of paint,nice job!
The reasoning for the Ground being white wire and black being power, is to follow similar to household wiring. White being common neutral and black resembling the common wire to either your pole or to your breakers! Making all wiring to follow code! your absolutely right about the old DC trailer wiring black ground and power being white, but in most newer vehicles, trailer system connections run from the fuse box/panel and is a little more sophisticated.
An upgrade option I have found useful is under trailer reverse lighting place a couple of flood lights aimed back at a 20-30 degree outward angle from the tongue as well as a pair just under the tail lights that can be powered on in when in reverse or switched to turn on constant. Another add on option would be a removable telescopic tower light that could be stored in the tongue box as well as a drop light (you could wire up for multiple power spots and tower mount locations (could use the stake pockets as tower mounts) as well universal power ports for the tower and drop light).
Nice rebuild. A couple of points to consider. Two 5,000 lb axles does not mean 10,000 lbs of cargo. It means 10,000 lbs pounds including the trailer itself and the load. You need to weigh your trailer empty so you know how much cargo capacity you have left. Additionally tire pressures are relative to the load which they are carrying to a point. 40 psi is probably good for medium to lighter loads but to access the full weight rating on a tire, you need to use the maximum tire pressure listed on the tire. Last, the center lights will be a great addition if you only haul rolling loads with center clearance. However, if you haul stuff that would put any weight on the center of the trailer, especially if it is stuff that will slide or have to be drug on or off, all your hard work and money will be quickly destroyed. I’m sure you evaluated your specific intended use when you added that feature. I only mentioned it for others who may be thinking about that modification. For me, I use my trailer for hauling all kinds of stuff from rolling loads, to scrap metal and those lights would be destroyed within the first couple of uses. The lights by the spares will be perfect though. I also add bright back up lights to the back end of the trailer because I always end up backing up in the dark and trailers are miserable to back in dark areas without back up lights. Again, nice rebuild!
One other mention. Just adding bigger axles does not give you more capacity. There were not structural upgrades (in fact cutting the cross brace where the tongue jack is I would say is a down grade, due to additional twist being allowed in the tongue from having only plate replace it. ) Most people have a tendency to overload their trailer as it is, so thinking you can now add more is dangerous thinking. At best he got a bit better braking and made up for the added weight of the winch and batteries and heavier axles.
@ Mark Meier: Trailer capacity ratings have nothing to do with the tow vehicle. The weight rating of a trailer does not increase or decrease based on what vehicle it is attached to. The trailer has its own weight capacity rating based on its construction. It is up to the operator of the tow vehicle to make sure they are using a vehicle with a tow rating high enough to pull the loaded trailer and that the load on the trailer is situated in such a way that the tongue weight also does not exceed the capacity of the tow vehicle.
@@PeeterPuncher one more of my know it all comments🤣🤣🤣but heavier axles does not change the gvwr the manufacturer put on it. And heaven forbid dot ever checked and you are overweight
what I would have done with the center strip is get a channel iron welded in web side down with flanges up and then put in weld on D rings in the bottom of the channel and maybe some E track mounts too. then a guy would have center tie downs that do in interfere with any load
Ian, GR8 job. I really like the lights in the middle of the trailer. When I was upgrading my trailer, the company blew holes in the frame for the wires. I drilled them out and ran grommets to protect wires from rubbing. Never had a problem but what if. I have a full wire mess ramp but installed extra set of trailer lights on the ramp. this allows the lights to be higher and more visible. and an extra set if the others quit. I added extra marker lights on the front corners and blinker markers on the side center of the fenders. This allows the person coming up on the next lane to see me coming over if they can see the rear blinkers. A spare spindle is an idea. I had a bearing go out on a trailer many years ago coming back from Zuwharrie and unloaded it and drove home. It was just faster than strapping it up. 8-)
Some people make a center strip of removable boards so they can use the trailer like a lift so they can work on the underside of the car if necessary. This is handy if you need to do repairs at the race track. If you don't have a trailer brake disconnect, sometimes it is easier to mount the junction box closer to the trailer lights behind the rear most axle, to shorten wiring runs to trailer/running lights and brakes. After finishing the wiring in the junction box, fill the interior of the box with regular wheel bearing grease. This will prevent water and salt from getting to the connections and shorting them out, particularly where they salt the roads. It is also a reservoir of grease that you can use if you have to repack a wheel bearing out on the road.
For like 8 months I had a truck and trailer and let me tell you, it’s incredible. It’s such a game changer! I seriously miss the hell out of my truck and trailer. I hope that one day I’ll have the money to buy another setup and I’d love to do some great customization to my trailer like you have yours!!!
I love the honesty in the axle part but honestly we are all stoked that you have people that support you. I love the onx content also. Rooting for Nate and Dave!
Love it Ian Can you show how you strap up your rig with this configuration And maybe some pictures of the trailer at night with the lights on. Keep up the content ❤
Old boss of mine put lights down the center of trailer and every time some one threw and chain across the deck they broke a light. flat leds might work but they were not available then. great stuff keep up the good work.
The junction box is using the 7 way RV blade traditional wiring configuration which is the standard for 5th wheel trailers, campers, etc. The wiring colors you are talking about are the SAE J2863 configuration which is industry standard for utility trailers and goosenecks. Not wrong, just different
Another note on the wood decking, mount the boards with the crown up. So if your looking at the end of the board, the growth rings will make a "C" shape, you want the top of the C at the top, and the 2 ends facing down. This will help prevent the wood from holding as much water, prolonging the life of the wood. Also for people that don't know, just because you put a higher weight capacity axle under your trailer does not increase the "legal" capacity. If you get stopped of checked by DOT they are only going to go by the data plate/sticker on the tongue of the trailer and they could punish you with anything from a ticket to impounding your trailer or anything in between. (Not saying I agree with that, just a warning to those that may not know.)
To add to this comment, speaking of the DOT, ANY TRAILER rated 1 pound over 10,000 lbs, pulled by ANY VEHICLE UNDER 26,000, lbs., is required the driver to be licensed with a Class A, CDL. Got that? You must be legally licensed to operate a semi down the highway. Wait, there's more! IF your tow vehicle + trailer combined gross over 17,000 lbs. Your required to have a Combination licensed plate on the tow vehicle $500. + plate. If you fail to aquire and pay for this and get stopped, they take your truck weight, add your trailer and the contents weight, and add those figures to total gross weight overload fine on your tow vehicle. Basically, you're going to jail, and you might as well handover the title of your rig to pay the fine. On my 10,000 GVW trucks, I pull 7,000 lb trailers to stay under that magic 17,000 Combination number. One more thing, yes, there's more! If you have one of these fancy crew cab, 4x4 dually, loaded for bear tow rigs with a GVW over 10,001 lbs, DON'T CROSS ANY STATE LINES w/o a DOT # with the sticker numbers on the doors. You'll have some face 2 face time with the judge about you being in business. Just stay under the 10,000 limit. This is why you're seeing these newer trailers rated at 9,950 GVW now. Hope this helps.
I would use a drop leg jack. An impact will beat a jack to death. A speedwrench or electric rachet will save a lot of wear. Then jack by hand. Also put a loop for the winch hook so you can use a blockon the winch rope. Not to double the capacity but ease the strain on the rope and make the pull smoother. Not as fast but smooth and easy. 10k winch with a block equeals 20k capacity, half the load on the rope at same load.
I like adding some tubing to the center of the wheel mounts to support it while you line up the bolt holes. You can use round or square, just so long as you place it after mounting the first time so that it supports the rim instead of the lugs.
did that when I mounted tires inside the enclosed trailer on a rack. Makes it a lot easier to place it on and then spin it to line up the holes. I did use welded-through bolts. being the same thread, if you lost a lug nut, the spare had 3 available.
I’m so glad to find this channel! I didn’t know you were doing this so I subscribed and will have to go to the start and watch all your videos! I always love watching anything you’re making
I really enjoyed the episode of your rebuild. The lights in the floor were a game changer. Keep up the great work, and as always, be safe in your adventures.
I work on trailers for a living, so white is ground every day, lol. They also make a 7 wire loom, like the 7 way plug wire you put to the box. Already in its jacket ,just have to splice at different points . Really as long as your happy with the wiring on your own trailer and it all works. All that matters.
add a 20 amp circuit breaker to the aux power in the junction box...that will protect your connectors and truck wiring in case you try to work the winch with the trailer wires still connected and a low battery
Something I started doing on trailer wiring is putting the wires in 1/2" PVC tubing. Using various T's, 90's, 45's, etc you can get right to each light, brake, etc.
i've been a fan of using junction boxes for trailer wiring for a while. they are nice for diagnosis as you said and for repairs and also upgrades should the need arise in the future. the term that I've best heard applied to using them is "future proofing" and it works out great. In addition to that I have also started installing reverse lights into any trailer I rewire because I am flat tired of people rear ending my trailers when I am backing out of a spot. Also as a semi professional grease monkey myself, I have to recommend the butt connectors I've been buying for years now. they are in effect a non-insulated connector that has heatshrink pre-installed on them. they make them in butt connectors and fork lugs and ring lugs and spades and even bullet connectors too.
A ratchet strap around the center of the tread can also help set the bead. Just make sure to remove it once the bead catches, BEFORE you inflate the tire fully.
Excellent video with clear and valuable advice. Thank you for taking the time to educate us. One little suggestion, if you connect a small white led marker light to the inside of the toolbox, you won't need a flashlight to search for items at night. Keep safe.
I've been piecing together items to spruce up my trailer. Thanks for some items I haven't thought about. Give the wood a couple coats of boiled linseed oil (BLO) on all 6 sides of the wood will increase the longevity of the deck. At the very least do the top. BLO can take a long time to dry or you can reduce it.
Nice trailer. I am surprised the jack mount is 1/8" material. The one you cut off was way more beefy. Hope it works. Here where we have lots of snow, those wires run cross-member to cross-member would get loaded up with snow and ice and pulled down and apart. We have to run the wire along the "C" channel here. Wood planking will last a long time if you do nothing. If you put a coat of linseed oil on it every year or two, it will outlive you. Lights down the center are cool enough. But they are clearly not flush mounted. You will hate them when you drag frames and pieces of vehicles up onto the trailer with your winch, getting hooked on them and ripping them out of the trailer.
I have a 1/4" plate, and two 1/4" wall 2" tubes on my winch mount (10,000 lb). It's gotten all bent up over the years. My trailer sits alot higher, so there is probably some additional stress added to the plate...but there is no way 1/8" would survive. Seems sketchy, to save maybe $30 in steel.
@@jonathonschram3429 I wasn't as concerned for the winch plate, since the forces are along the plate. But 3/16 would be my minimum. For the trailer jack however, the forces are up in the middle of a significant span, and the 1/8" plate will bend right away. I'm sure Ian figured it out off-camera. Maybe all he had on hand at the time of the filming was 1/8.
I just rewired a trailer at work, basically the same thing here, it just tilts. Started pulling out the old wires...green was powering the running lights (also was pinched in the tilt, and the cause of exploding fuses) brown was the right turn/brake, and red was on the left/turn brake. I was so confused, but i was ripping it out anyway. Get to the junction box, there's nothing connected to the yellow lug besides the wire coming from the plug. Instead, there's a red wire coming from the plug, and connecting the left turn/brake. Apparently someone put an RV plug on this trailer, and wired it like a psycho. I suspect our mechanic at work is really a bear wearing overalls.. Like it's just lights, the wires have printing on them tell you where to connect them, and their color coded! Anyhoo. Just picked up a sketchy trailer yesterday, gonna do pretty much this! Love the stuff you do! Been watch you since Power Block! Extreme 4x4 baby!
I don't know where u live but if someone tried to throw away a trailer like that around here there would be a line a block long trying to get it. Typically insurance companies are the culprit for that kind of nonsense.
For anyone rebuilding a used trailer id really recommend taking a close look at all those shackle hangers and make sure there are no cracks in the welds, or just making sure theres more than tack welds holding it together. Have seen it multiple times on “quality” lippert frames. Nothing sucks more that having mounts shear off hundreds of miles from home
Damn! You did it again Ian. That was a great video! Besides my current interest in rebuilding a trailer, you touched on every aspect and continued throughout the whole process (as you do on all your vids). ✌️😁👍 The added center lights are "flipping" BA!
I converted all my trailers to 7 pin semi plug with the coil double end plug so it is easy to swap if damaged. I also use the receptacle with circuit breakers so if there is a problem it isolates the truck from the trailer. All my jacks are a step higher rating then required to make it easier to crank when loaded.
Got a free 20 ft power tilt steel deck trailer from my buddies dad like 6 years ago. Added junction box, Wired side and tail lights in series parallel with individual grounds. If there's a failure super easy diag. At the time I had a 1500 Silverado so went with 6 lug axles that way I always had 2 spares. Also the tail lights are long and thin on the end of the trailer, mounted inside 2x2 .25 square tube. Back it into a wall and lights are fine.
New subscriber, enjoyed the trailer build. And great ideas to refurbish an existing trailer on the (some what) cheap, but definitely cheaper than buying a new one for sure. Thanks for sharing
Just an FYI- something I learned a while ago is your axle cap is 10k Gross. Meaning 10k minus the weight of the trailer. 10k worth of axles minus a 2500lb trailer (guesstimate) means you have a 7500lb capacity trailer. Just wanted to make mention of it as it was something I learned, and something I noticed you say in the video more than once. Otherwise great build up! Love trailer mods
Adding my 2 cents. I think you did a great job but in my openion you missed one impirtant step. When the trailer was apart you should of done some rust preventative maintenance on the frame. Even a rattle can if rustoleum would of been beneficial.
The funky wiring colors associated with the pigtail and j-box are standard color codes for RV wiring. That 7pin plug system originated in the RV industry. I own a trailer repair business, and I can't begin to tell you the confusion this causes my customers trying to wir their own 7pin plugs in.
The trailer plug colors are right, they are different then a 4 plug wiring. The 7 wire plug follows rv wiring. Hardwood is a better deck material because it resists stuff digging into it when you are sliding stuff along the deck. Make sure the trailer is built strong enough to support a heavier load if you are going to add heavier axles. Good point on the shrinkage of the deck boards, I leave my hardwood boards strapped together so they don't warp outside over winter, it amazing how much they shrink.
My 7K trailer already has 4 wheel brakes. Added tool box and winch. Has steel deck & LEDs. Can't use more weight for how I use it. Next upgrade would be decent tires to replace the Chinese cr*p it came with. Dumped the center mount jack, (HATE those things) added swing away on side of tongue. Also made a set of wood rails dropped into tie down channels to surround the entire bed so I can use it for hauling other stuff. Spare mounted on side rail is no wider than fender. I once did the 3500 to 5000 conversion on a customer enclosed trailer after he bent the stock axles overloading it. Keeping a 4 pin male to 7 pin female converter in the box allows me to move it with a lighter vehicle when empty.
You have done an incredible job on this build. But staying with those 15'' tires will bite you in the ass. I would have gone with a 16'' trailer tire and forget a lot of your tire troubles down the road. Nice build sir.
I'm amazed at how many people don't seem to charge their trailers off the 7pin. A trick with the spare tires. Extend the mount tubes a couple of inches past past the mounting flange. Then you don't have to lift the tires direct onto the studs.
Great job and some great ideas for sure. A couple things I don't think you're thinking about, recess the center metal strip so when you're pulling bent/broken/dismantled vehicles on your not ripping off or damaging the lights. I'd replace the taillights with something like the trux dual revolution lights and hook them with the square light switch for backing up at night. I also agree that the spare should be a spindle mounted setup and possibly one on each side. The only other thing I'd change is that jack to an electric jack, this may sound very strange but it's to know that the battery is not bad or going bad because if you don't maintain a good battery on the trailer that breakaway is absolutely useless.
I would've used a piece of channel mounted so that it recesses the lights, protects the lights but also can have an extra set of tie down rings mounted recessed inside the channel to leave the deck flat but with more securement options and recess protected lights
I ran into the same problem with my trailer junction block. There is a trailer standard and an RV standard and they are not the same for wire color coding.
I’ve noticed the 7pin color code can be different if it’s a camper or utility trailer. I’ve seen different color code charts on google and I think that was the difference. Just going off memory so I may be mistaken
hey, I fix trailers as a side hustle and one tip I would give is to ground each light to the chassis of the trailer and then ground the chassis at the junction box. Probably 90% of the trailer wiring issues I see are ground issues and this will keep a pinched harness from knocking out all the fuses in your truck, because there isn't a direct ground in the harness loom. I see people snag the wiring loom on a branch in the field or some road debris on the highway and rip the harness and that single ground in the harness will blow 5 fuses on your truck. Chances are that the trailer chassis will be a ground anyway due to the ball hitch connection and the frame of the truck being a ground, so you might as well dedicate the trailer chassis as a ground and use it to anyway.
The ball and coupler do not make a good ground to the tow vehicle. Just watch someone that has used that when they go down the road, all the trailer lights blinking / flashing on nearly every bump or bounce.
@@stevea6722 Your 100% correct. I didn't do a good enough job explaining what I meant. I meant that you take the ground that you gained from the tow vehicle utilizing the trailer light connector and tie that into the chassis of the trailer. This grounds the entire trailer and then you can just tie each individual light's ground to the chassis. A good number of lights that bolt on, don't come with a ground wire at all, they rely on the bolt and nut to ground the light to the trailer chassis anyway, so if you are using this type of light, you skip having to run a ground wire to the bolt of the light to ground it if the chassis is already a ground.
I only skimmed through the comments but didn't see mention of it, you say the lights wiring didn't follow "convention", well there is different conventions, you have the 4-pin (utility trailer) convention , then you have RV convention (7-blade style) which is what your box is most likely wired for (I paused the video to write this). I discovered this while working on mine doing just this, rewire, j-box (truck-lite super 50 I think, 12 double-port), and swapped 2-3500 axles for 2-7k axles. In addition to those wiring setups there's also the "agricultural/commercial" (7-pin round) connector used on semi trailers and farm trailers. I've also seen a 4-pin round, no idea what the trailer was, and heard of a 13 pin or something from Europe.
wrre doing ours now. 3500lbs out. 5ks in. new tool box, new tongue plates, drive over fenders, and new ramp holders. we built it from scratch 10 yrs ago from an old travel trailer frame for like 600$ its 24'x90" deck with a beavertail
Some spare tire carriers off of a pickup work well. Mount underneath the trailer and can tuck the spare up under the deck, then lower it down with the crank when needed.
Jack Upgrade suggestion: Mount a small motor to the jack with a gear on the shaft that is level with the top of the jack's top nut (the one the impact socket is used on) and either replace that socket nut with or weld a matching gear onto the nut so when you push a button, the motor spins and the gears then work the jack as if you're using an impact on it... Then, you can dispense with the dedicated impact and charger and just run it directly off the winch battery in the tongue box (and mount a solar cell on the lid to keep the battery topped up when not connected to the truck)...A set of buttons in a waterproof box mounted to the outside of the tongue box completes the deal...unlock the cover, hit the button and the jack goes up or down as needed...
But he probably wants an impact wrench handy for fixing a flat or whatever. The manual mode on the jack is nice for if all else goes fubar you can just crank it by hand
Here are a couple of ideas for some of you if you like them. We went to the junk yard and got a spare tire winch off of a pickup and mounted our spare under the trailer tongue. We also mounted our jack to the side of the tongue and then put spools in front and back of the axels on both side so we can use the trailer jack as a jack to change the tire.
To change tires on a two axle trailer all you need to do is pull the tire in front of or behind the one you want to change onto a bump or block ..the other wheel will be left hanging in the air.. gotta rember to loosed lugs first tho ..unless you have brakes on that wheel ..or you can Kam some thing against tire so it don't spin...also if you use the lug wrench so it crosses the axle hub as your tightening or loosening it has less leverage to spin the wheel probly most know these things but some may not .
I like the center lights, but I probably would have tried to recess them a little more if possible and put some kind of guard around them. Just in case someone finds a way to mess up and run them over or someone accidentally steps on them...lol.
I’m surprised you didn’t put any rock lights. Or at least LEDS underneath to light up the underside. I’m seeing more trailer’s going down the road with them . Pretty cool idea
I am thinking of adding one inside the fender well, possibly an orange light so I could use it if I needed to change a tire on the side of the road....I never thought of adding rock lights as well...I like that idea
Have rebuilt many like this to “flip” , why if you had it down to bare frame did you not give her a nice paint job ? Finished product would looked that much better . Love painting a trailer when the floor is out . Any trailer I replace the floor is getting painted . That said you did a great job.
Just ran into the same issue with the 7 pin. My understand is that is the RV color coding. But it’s been difficult to find one pinned conventionally. I’ll end up doing the same thing you did haha.
36:03 Humbly, I would suggest a C channel down the center, with lights and extra tie downs. You can NEVER have too many straps. I agree with the hub for a spare tire holder and i would suggest spare tire covers. I live in the Midwest and road salt is hell on everything. The tire cover will also help deter rust on the lug and rim of your spare.
May I suggest putting a spare tire winch from a pick up truck. Under the trailer just in front of the axle. Using one from the same brand as your truck. Means the tools to lower it will be with you. God bless
Nice Job. I did a similar thing with my 24' 5000 lb flatbed trailer. Double framed (long story) added brakes to the non-brake axle. My axles are still 3500# rated but my concern was just because I made the frame stronger, added additional brakes, etc... the 2" ball still exists and most 2" hardware is 5000lb rated. I know you can by better but the hitch on the trailer is still 5000#. In your case up to 10000# so wouldn't you need to change that hitch to a 2-5/16" for safety?
I would never use an impact gun on the jack. The impact feature is going to put serious stress on stuff that doesn't need it. A regular heavy duty drill with gear reduction will work just fine.
Price wise, if you sold your trailer for $4k which it’s worth. You probably would have had a limited warranty, drive off the lot and an extra $1,000. Cause you didn’t factor in the steel or original trailer purchase. Since a “new” trailer also includes a brand new frame
Considering the "garbage" that I have seen sold lately by trailer shops...no way would I be ahead...add to that..this trailer would of sold for maybe 1k
