This is not a step by step how to video on how to install a window unit air conditioner in a cargo trailer, but i do show the concepts I used. Anyone with any kind of mechanical skills will be able to use these ideas.
I"m impressed with the engineering of the A/C ventilation cabinet ...... The heavy foam board insulation, and even Foil taping the joints to KEEP the air flow at maximum efficiency 👌👍👍👍 It is obvious, that when you do something, you take the time to "do it RIGHT" .... Kudos to ya !!!! "Thanks" for posting this detailed video .... I'm sure you helped many others solve the condensation issue of using a wind A/C unit in a camper !!! 😎
My 1990 Dodge B250 has a old Emerson window unit it probably needs recharging but of course it's regular freon so I'm just going to replace it but looking at this to make sure it's all done properly :-)
Just come here from your tour video, HOLY COW that is a sweet camper! The elevated bed gave me so many ideas sir, thanks for all your hard work and showing it off to us.
Have you seen the AC mounted in sliding trays. Cut a hole in the wall of the trailer, then the AC slides out when you are parked, so it drains right on the ground. When you get ready to move slide the AC back in. Build you a water tight hatch to close the AC access hatch when the AC is retracted.
Great stuff, just make sure you park level, with nose down slightly. We had localised A/C units in the mess decks of the submarines I served on and every time we went 10° up or down the ‘savealls’ emptied over the nearest person. Regards from U.K. AJ
Thanks so much for responding to our questions and tossing out a video explaining your concept, your implementation, and what you had to change to make it work as you hoped! Your DIY skills are spot on, and I appreciate your documentation while you did all this work. I've got a 5x8 cargo trailer that I'm currently working on, and I'm trying to make a decision as to which AC system I'll be going with; debating between a roof AC and one of these 5k BTU window units. Your design may end up implemented in my camper if I decide to go with a window unit / cabinet combo at the front.
This was an excellent video, Sir. I am gearing up for a build & I am currently in my research phase now and exploring my options. This was a very informative video. Thank you
(( I’ve lost most of my hearing due to cancer & chemo. )) Love watching your videos, closed captioning would really be appreciated. Keep posting your very interesting & informative pieces. Ron (“in Utah”)
I wonder why the camper industry won't come up with a 12 volts AC like in the cars or a 115 watts AC that will work anywhere where 115 volts is available or with a small 115 watts generator. It would revolutionize camping and open up camping anywhere in the summer. Having a 30 amp AC limits its use to full hook up camping or Carry a 3500 watts generator. Just saying. Great video, we need visionaries like you to change the game.
Very nice vid. Planning a conversion of my own and had decided (ease of use) on a portable unit. I will be putting more thought into the window unit now!
I like the idea of a mini split in a cargo trailer conversion. But it would need to be a (mini) mini split, cause they are all just too big and heavy for a very small trailer. I've looked everywhere for one, and they simply don't exist right now. There was one available from a company in Canada years ago, marketed as a "portable" mini split. I think it was like 3500 btu's. But I believe it's no longer on the market. It was pretty ideal for a cargo trailer conversion as both units were quite a bit smaller and lighter than all the residential units. But something like that, around 3000 btu's, and that uses a little less wattage than the typical 6000+ btu units, would be perfect for a small trailer.
Great video. Was wondering best way for ac in trailer and i think you nailed it 👍 kinda keeps it stealthy not that i really care but when ya got big ole ac hanging out I think it looks a little trashy
I am using your method to improve my setup. I installed a 5k window unit in April 2019. I was in a rush and I was a beginner so it is ok but not ok. It has worked but very edgy once you hit 90 outside. I am also able to run it off solar. I am in process of redoing the installation in a more attention to detail way. I like the vents. I used a dryer vent for the intake side and a simple cheap register for the out vent. Again it is ok but needs improving. Unfortunately I didn't mount the ac centrally as you have done. I also have a curved ceiling which doesn't seem to be your case. With improved efficiency, a gimble fan and an additional 400 watt solar (for a total 1200) I think I will be able to withstand more than 90 degrees. Great videos I keep coming back to them. We DIYers are nothing if not inventive and it is great to share our ideas. Thank you Brian.
There is a video here on youtube I saw. The guy put his AC on tracks like on a filing cabinet, cut an access hole in the trailer wall for the AC to slide out while parked, and drain like a normal AC right on the ground. Then when he moves, the AC slides back in the trailer, and he has a water tight hatch he closes behind it.
That is a clean install. Eventually I'll have to do something like this. For now I am running a dual hose and it actually does do a decent job.. I didn't even insulate the trailer. Night time no problem at all in the summer. Spring and fall it gets like an ice box. So I figure during the day when I'm at a WMA hunting or a state camp site it won't matter much. The biggest thing is painting the roof with a white acrylic coating and wrapping the exhaust hose with aluminum bubble wrap type insulation. For heat in winter I got one of those duraflame 1500w heaters made to look like a cast iron fireplace and a buddyheater as a backup. Thinking about using roof heater cable or a floor heating cable setup also for under the plywood floor.. if I ever camp outside of Florida where it gets truly cold.
I have almost the same set up but only use 1 fan for exhaust and a vent for intake. It works decent. My pan I use is a commercial paint roller pan with a hose out the bottom of the V.
Good Job but if I may shed a little light, you may find it useful. Did you know about "thru the wall" air conditioners, commonly called "sleeve units"? They are dripless and wont need a drain. You could put it in your designed area and only have the intake and exhaust vents to contend with. I dont know how many CFM your Dayton fans movee but they appear to be under sized and the big angle of the vents may impede airflow. Even if they do move enough air, you still have the possibility of either of them failing and causing damage or fire. A sleeeve unit could easily b ducted like you currently have and you would likely need only the built in fan to move air. It would be easier to spot a problem this way , instead of monitoring 3 fans. Years ago I bought some condoes that had thru the wall units and one gave out. Best Buy had 4 that I was able to get at a great price. I found thy were not dripless. I had run a drain catch madee of pvc pipe and ran it over the edge of the balcony. Then the complaints started coming. People were getting dripped on and th manager was called. I quickly found out wher I could get some of the correct stuff and had no more issues, other than what to do with 4 ACs that I could not use. I have a big 24,000 btu unit that I stuck in the window of my garage and blocked the rest of the openings. It works really good for the aiea I need to cool. It;s not great but it does get down to about 72 and less humidity, plus the air ls blowing across the floor toward me when I am working. Good luck. Thanks for the tips you gave me, too
I have a similar fan setup for a 5000btu ac in a toy hauler build we did. I'm sure you've found that those fans aren't sufficient for pulling the heat out of that chamber. Very good design tho I like it!
I need to try this in my old 91 Palomino hard side pop up. Its got a cabinet for an ice chest we never use. Thinking of popping that thing out putting a window unit in it.
Cut you an access hole in the wall, and mount your AC on slides like the ones on a filing cabinet, then slide the AC out the access whole while parked so it drains like they normally do, when you get ready to move slide you AC back in. Build you a water tight hatch to cover the AC access. They build slide outs for RVs, one small slide out for an AC should be easy.
Just curious like another poster below, how has this worked out for you? This is the cleanest, most logical window unit install I've seen so far. I bought a trailer that was partially converted and it has a dual hose unit. It works great, but it just takes up so much space. This install is a very efficient use of space that otherwise is wasted. Just wondering if you have had any long term issues or regrets.
My concern is that the marine hatches do not have the equal area that AC unit has for intake and exhaust therefore choking off the air flow. Measure the width and height of the exhaust and then measure the area of one clear opening hatch. If they don’t match then I think that the AC unit will not operate properly. I think that you need bigger hatches. Another way of checking is to find a velometer and measure the free flowing air exhaust of the AC unit and then measure it over the hatch. Note that the velometer needs to be sealed so that no air leaks occur. Good luck
I am currently in the middle of cargo trailer conversion and will be doing something very similar. Where did you get the dryer vent covers for the marine hatches? I have searched but can’t find a cover big enough to cover the 6” marine hatches. Thanks for the detailed video.
Can you post a link to the dryer vents? My home Depot and Lowe's don't have any plastic vents bigger than 4" and the metal ones have ducting on the back.
Thank you for posting this video. I have an Ambulance box that I am converting into a tiny home/camper. After ripping out the factory A/c unit (it was previously connected to the engine's compressor) I had the perfect space for this.
Rooftop air conditioners cost a LOT more than window units, most of them are very loud, and if cargo trailer is not made with that in mind, it requires lots of bracing and know how to make it work out right.
Hmm nice attention to detail. But is it overkill? There's going to be stinky water in there between uses. It's just asking for trouble. And so much fussing. I'm thinking, simply slide the aircon out when you use it. Must we reinvent the wheel? That was the anticipated installation position the engineer chose for the stated operation parameters. They already figured this out. As we are already having to remember to unscrew the vent caps, why not just swing open a door, and haul it out loud and proud? Be quieter too. Maybe put it on drawer sliders, et voila! Use the remote. Seal with foam gaskets or weatherstripping. Tilt downward. The unit intentionally collects the water to hurls it onto the fins by design, to leverage evaporative cooling effect. Moist air carries more heat. Some will escape out through the fins. It's a slow train wreck waiting to happen running it inside. I mean, how are we men designed? 'Nuff said.
They make window units that dont drip. I live in 60-90% humidity weather in south texas and my unit doesnt leak. Roof top units are ridiculous. I think its a scam how inefficient they run
